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Rack and Pinion plug/bolt leak?

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CaliOddie

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey whats up guys, I have this annoying PS rack and pinion leak that keeps going even after hose changes and it appears to be coming from a round screw in plug (sorta like a freeze plug similar to the large gold one on the side with the 3/8 drive notch) from the bottom of the rack/pinion valve body housing (PLEASE SEE SAMPLE PHOTO BELOW).

My question is, does that plug come off and does it have a seal or gasket I can change? I have been looking everywhere even on Hondas website but no one shows a blown up version of that area and if its just screw on plug or if it has a seal/gasket. I have verified the other in/out low and high pressure lines going to the valve body are not leaking so i suspect this bottom plug to be the culprit.

It drips ever so slightly but I saw it today pooling there and dripping to the subframe. Any help will be greatly appreciated. P.S..Ill post a photo of mine tomorrow to show my exact leak point.

Image
 
#3 ·
CaliOddie said:
round screw in plug (sorta like a freeze plug similar to the large gold one on the side with the 3/8 drive notch) from the bottom of the rack/pinion valve body housing
Click to expand...
This sounds like the rack guide adjustment screw.

It's sealed with thread sealant.

It screws into the rack and is held in place with a 43mm locknut. That locknut is moved with a special Honda tool.

Loosening the locknut/screw would require recalibration.

This is getting into pro territory. A rack rebuild shop could probably complete the adjustment and reseal the screw with an hour's labor.
 
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#4 ·
davedrivesody said:
This sounds like the rack guide adjustment screw.
Loosening the locknut/screw would require recalibration.
This is getting into pro territory.
Click to expand...
I wouldn't say it's a pro job. The job of that screw/bolt is to take up slack. Just tighten until it touches the rack with light pressure and lock it. If it's too tight, you'll know and feel it in the steering wheel.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Man, I don't like messing with rack-and-pinion adjustments like that particular one. I've done it before (different make of vehicle decades ago), and I did not have torque tools with a light enough inch-lbs. setting to do this correctly. You can either end up with slop, or end up with a stuck steering wheel at full lock ... you won't know it until you get there, and try to return the steering to center.

Just a half turn on that screw can cause you to go from "it's a teeny bit loose" to "hey, it felt fine, and now it just got stuck, full left." This is your steering. I'm brave enough to do the tie rods, ball joints, control arms (I have all of the tools), all brake components, struts and all their parts, but damn, knowing the possible results, this is one I'd take to a rack rebuild shop. EDIT: Or, just do nothing and suffer with the extra bit of lash, knowing that it's going to work.

OF
 
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Discussion starter · #6 ·
I was hoping it was just a gasket issue in that bolt but I too do not like to mess with stuff that is calibrated or requires measurement since im not a pro to get it back right. Looks like ill try ATP 205 like some have suggested suggested and if it doesn't work then a new rack and pinion will be the case.

Havent had a chance to take a photo of the actual leak since its raining here so as soon as it stops ill post.
 
#7 ·
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
davedrivesody said:
A new rack would be unnecessary.

It just needs an hour with a rack technician.
Click to expand...
rack technician?? never heard of such unless you mean alignment shop. The R&P is fairly cheap in my area based on my research about $100 and $125 on rockauto.com but yeah not sure if a “tech” would be any cheaper. If you know such tech int he socal area, let me know.
 
#9 ·
CaliOddie said:
rack technician?
Click to expand...
LOL Possibly some embellishment there. :)

But seriously, I have more faith in the work of a tech who regularly works on a specialized assembly (e.g. steering rack, auto trans, etc.) than in that of a general tech.
CaliOddie said:
$100 and $125 on rockauto.com
Click to expand...
Good price, but labor to R&R would be on top of that. Even if DIY, at least a wheel alignment would be needed. (Great opportunity to replace the pressure hose though.)
 
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#13 ·
That's just a dust cover btw... not the adjustment port.
It may or may not have a seal, the ATP wont hurt anything, it will actually rejuvenate all the seals in the system.

If the leak doesn't stop at the dust cover after a treatment, there is minimal risk to removing it sealing up the threads and reinstalling the dust cap.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Yep, the fitting on the bottom is just a cap.

The leak could be from a pinion shaft seal or rack seal. It's impossible to say without disassembling the whole thing.

In either case, the suggested AT-205 could fix it.

I can't see the red arrows nor the second leak. Anyway if the other leak is from the large fitting facing forward, the threads would have to be resealed.

There's no visible drip from the forward fitting in your pic. If the AT-205 works on the other leak, you may be able to live with this one.

If not, replacing or rebuilding the rack would be the best way forward.
 
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
Sorry guys just got around to posting again. I am finally ordering the AT-205. I didn't do so before as for some odd reason it was no longer leaking but just noticed yesterday it was leaving a puddle again and coming from same place.

So the PS fluid reservoir is still almost to the full line. How is this added? Or recommended to be added? Am I to remove PS fluid and add this or?
 
#17 ·
you can go above the line a few ounces, or use a dollar tree turkey baster to suck out some fluid or heck even a piece of hose down in the reservoir with your thumb over the end while pulling the hose out will remove some fluid after a few tries.
I have removed the reservoir from the bracket on the apron, and tilted it sideways into a cutout washer fluid jug when I needed to replace the plastic reservoir.

Then replace the removed amount with ATP.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
So if I understand you correctly is, this ATP will replace the PS fluid 1 for 1? I thought it was an additive where you may remove and replace with a few ounces or so. I had to order it on Amazon as none of my local auto parts carried it so cannot see the bottle for reference.

Also I went down underneath the car again and can confirm the 2 places where I mentioned above and have the red arrows, those 2 plugs/bolts or whatever you call them are where the leaks are coming from and according to some of you, they are not recommended to be removed so will still see if the ATP fixes the leak and if not, then I may just have to replace the R&P which I do NOT want to really as seen videos and such a headache to remove.
 
#19 ·
The directions should state how much ATP to add to a certain amount of fluid. So hypothetically, if 2oz is needed for the power steering- remove 2 ounces from the reservoir since it's full and replace that with 2 ounces of ATP.
 
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