Wow, you're a lot braver than I am! Question - I'm assuming this is a 4 speed unit since you have a 2000 Ody. When you filled the tranny fluid, did you use the new DW-1 synth Honda fluid or something else? Also, what do you think caused the third failure? Finally, how did you check the fluid level? I was told it was run the car til the rad fan comes on, then shut off, and check vs. checking it while running.

 

Finally, how did you check the fluid level? I was told it was run the car til the rad fan comes on, then shut off, and check.

That the proper way anyway....as per manual. Dont forget that you should be on a level surface.

 

I am in the process of getting the one that was in the car rebuilt. I have used the Honda transmission fluid, but am thinking of using Amsoil this time. Am an only guessing, but it is probably stuff plugging up. I had changed the trans fluid about a month ago. I think old fluid is thicker and the newer is thinner, possibly moving stuff around more and plugging up - guessing. I will do a flow test on the radiator cooler and inline filter. I plan to put in the cooling unit seperate from the radiator. Thought they would have done that last time. I check the level after it warmed up and engine off. I know older cars used to check when in idle. I have had several accords and this one ody over 35 yrs. Never had trans issues before.

 

Good job. Looking forward to see how long it takes you removing and installing. Curious where you are getting it rebuilt and how long their warranty is. Seems some places won't give warranty unless ASE tech replaces it.

 

That is true about the warranty. I did run into the issue that companys like Gator will not even sell a transmission unless a ASE tech installs it. I had some conversation the other day with a local shop that rebuilds them and getting a warranty. I plan to stop by with the transmission and see about the warranty issue, and hopefully leave them my trans. Hoping I can work out a warranty with this local shop.

 

My 2000 Odyssey is on it's 2nd tranny. I'm just approaching 200,000 miles and the other night I got the P0740 code (no slipping in any gear yet, but I'm sure it's coming). I will be interested to see how this turns out for you since something similar is probably in my not too distant future. I'm just trying to eke out more time before the replacement so I can finish grad school before dumping more money into car maintenance... but if it comes down to it, I might try to do the same thing you are doing. And I feel like if I go toward the effort getting the tranny out, I might just try to replace the clutch packs myself while I'm at it! This weekend I will be adding an external cooler and filter, as well as trying to clean the gunk out of the screens that are accessible without pulling the tranny.

 

In my description, I did forget to mention taking the torque converter off. The transmission shop refurbishes this also. You remove a small thin plate from below. The plate is at the back of the oil pan behind the flywheel, there are 2 small screws, one is attached to the trans, the other the bottom of the engine block. Behind the plate, there are 8 small screws, 10 mm, in the flywheel. Remove these one at a time and rotate the converter each time to get the next screw.

I did talk with the guy at Transmission Specialist and he does off a limited warranty, but he wont go beyond a year since he is not doing the installation. If he was removing and installing, he would offer a longer warrenty. So something to keep in mind. I was watching them rebuild trans while I was there. They had about 5 honda trans on the bench. It is tuff to have to put alot into a car with high mileage, so if this works for you and you have patience and some car experience, might be something to think about. I suspect that if they did the removal, I would be paying for the time it took to fix bolts that broke due to the age and rust on the bolts. It was alot of work a few times drilling out bolts, and retrieving broken bolts. I also have to replace a few mounts and a torsion linkage, so I do save on some more labor here.

 

Great thread. I have a 2000 Honda Odyssey with about 196,000+ miles. I have the original trans, so I got lucky. The issue I have is a mystery tranny fluid leak. The Honda dealer changed the tranny fluid a few months back and said it was leaking, and offered to charge me $166 to diagnose it. So I passed.
I then took it to my regular mechanic to diagnose, but after 2 visits still unsuccessful.
So at this point, I'm thinking it could be something major, or an expensive fix. In the mean while, I watch the fluid level and keep a quart of Honda ATF handy. I'm open to suggestions to remedy?
Anywho, good luck with your tranny replacement. I'll be watching this thread progress.

 

Thanks for commenting Jasper. I am guessing you can't see any signs of the oil leak from the trans (either on the case or ground). And by the way, you are definetly off the charts on the miles on this trans. So congrads. Maybe try the lottery also. I have known one trans to go slightly over 200k and then crapped out. Hope you break that record. I was wondering what the determination for the leak was based on? Was it just low, or could he see a leak. There are seals at the transaxles and at the torque converter, there are some lines that connect to the cooler inside the radiator for cooling, there are some case seals, and prob. a few others. If your check engine light is not on, that can also be used to tell if something starts to go wrong, because there are several things monitored that will result in a code on the computer. I guess if your checking it, and dont see any significant loss of fluid, I would not worry about, just add a little if needed. With this many miles, a little loss is not big worry. If you see it on the ground and/or adding a quart like once every 2 weeks, then that would be a little concerning. Probably dont try any long trips with it.

I will post another update on mine. I just got the trans back from the shop. Cost $1,400. It also had a bad shaft and one bad drum. The mechanic gave me a box of all the bad parts, so, I can see what was really bad. Will probably start installing in the next day, I work slow, so it wont be real soon.

Good luck man.

 

Picked up an external cooler to look to see how this is going to install. Not too bad, just pull the plastic snaps holding the bumper cover, and 2 screws, and its off so you can see the entire ac and radiator fin coolers. Figured out how the cooler will install so stopped at this for now.

I did a basic flow test on the existing cooler that runs through the radiator. There is also an inline filter that they added in one of the previous trans replacements. I took a funnel and straw and stuck it in one hose line - inlet side. I lowered the other end down about 8" to see if I could get gravity flow. The fluid I poured in the funnel just stayed there. So, with a gravity flow test and 8" of fluid pressure, there was no flow. It did leak around the duct taped funnel for a while, but nothing on the other end. I might try some air pressure later. I wont be using the existing cooler any more. If this is plugged, the transmission was ruined from over heating and not getting cooled.

So I pulled the trans over to the van, put it on some 3/4 plywood and made it ramp up on the frame towards the engine. I pushed the trans towards the engine and with in about 30 minutes, I had it lined up well and level with the engine. I had a jack under the board next to the engine and used blocks at the other end near the wheel hub - driver side. The torque converter was not on the trans yet and helped reduce the weight. I lifted the torque converter up and put in on the trans from below. The turbine is loose inside the coverter so there is some wigglin needed to get this set. it sides into the housing and there should be hardly room for fingers behind it when its on all the way. The trans is pushed towards the engine. I kept checking the housing clearance and making adjustments for side-to-side angle and up-down angle. There is about a 3/4 inch long shaft (dowel) on the end of the coverter that lines up with the flywheel center. That went together fairly easy. I started a bolt into the case, but you dont wont to use the bolts to pull them together. Next, the dowel pins will hit. This took a little time getting the dowels on the trans to push into the engine housing. Once the dowels were about half way, I put a little pressure on one bolt and wiggled the faces together. OK so far, just alot of other stuff to put back together.

 

Just replaced the two transmission mounts since they were in bad shape. Getting the engine and trans mounts back onto the subframe took a little work. The front mount on the engine is one bolt that sticks up and goes into a hole in the support attached to the engine. I had to have the subframe and engine raised some to get these to line up. Once that was in, connected the trans mounts, raise the frame enough to start the subframe bolts. Have those snugged up some, and then will get the rear engine mount and start the bolts for the steering rack.

 

Started it up, the green "D" light on the dash shift selector was flashing. Did a code scan. Found the wire on the top selonoid was not connected. That took care of the green light. cleared the computer codes. Took for a test drive and all is good. Trans is shifting well. Checked to make sure had good flow to new oil cooler, can feel is warm up well.

 

Glad to hear. Thanks for sharing.

 

Thanks for sharing !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I'm thinking of following your procedure to do the same as you did (transmission is starting to slip btwn 1st & 2nd)...are things still going well with your rebuilt tranny? Do you have an estimate of how many total hours you put into this project?

Thanks for your great post and any advice you can offer would be appreciated!

 

Thank you, awesome step by step instructions! My brother-in-law and i removed my tranny yesterday, and the instuctions were perfect, my neighbor (who is a master tech for Nissan, and Honda owner) agreed. I found a local tranny shop to rebuild it for $1200, wish me luck with re-installation.

 

Good for you . Please take notes and photos (even video) and add to this thread. - Thanks

 

Started my tranny last weekend. Following your same instructions. Will check in as the job goes.

 

I am doing this right now. I am up to removing the plastic guards, so far so good! Thanks for the walkthrough.

 

did not get very far with the rack and pinion. Could I leave that attached and remove the tie rod ends instead or is this a necessary step in removal.

 

I am just about to start removing the transmission from my 2000 Ody by following your excellent instructions. In your original write up you mentioned that you had not removed the intermediate drive shaft, just slid the transmission off the shaft. You were concerned that it may present a problem when it came to re-installing the transmission. You didn't mention it in your installation post, did it present a problem or had you removed it before hand?
Thanks Rick

 

Checking the cooler flow is a most critical part of this exercise. The restriction of the cooler is a "chicken and egg" situation. Did the transmission fail because the cooler was plugged or was the cooler plugged with junk cast off when the transmission failed? Whichever is true, the lines MUST be cleared before the new transmission is installed. I remember hearing about a guy who rebuilt his transmission, installed it and had it fail just a few miles down the road because he failed to flush the lines, which were plugged. Good luck to you who are brave enough to take on this daunting task, Jerry O.

 

trans removal

what all components did you have to remove to drop the sub frame?

 

Should have read further down in your post. I couldn't figure out why the tranny wouldn't come out, then read about torque converter to flex plate bolts. I'm going to recommend to anyone who is thinking of doing this, don't. I found several shops that will do the swap for $500 if you provide transmission. I wish I would have went that route.

 

I know it sounds crazy, but the trans can be changed from the top. I went to look at a Craigslist with a new trans and wiring issues and the owner explained that he had to do the swap in the parking lot with minimal tools. He put it on jack stands, and used an engine crane, rented, and changed it from the top. He had to remove the ABS unit and pry and cuss a lot, but he got it done. My deal fell through and I bought one with the trans removed and the crossmember and underpinnings in place. Rather than pull everything out, I went for the top. It took my son and I most of a Sat to get it in, but we made it work. It isn't easy, but it can be done.

 

Did you have to remove the ABS unit ? what else did you remove to install from the top?

 

One other thing I ended up doing differently, and don't know effect yet. I removed the bolt at the steering connector and left steering components attached to subframe. Will let you know if this caused any problems when I get everything back together.

 

Thanks jpgandee. Your instructions were helpful. I just did my swap with your detailed instructions. I didn’t have an overhead bar to hoist the engine to prevent it from dropping but I used two jacks instead to hold the engine and transmission from bottom. I was afraid the oil pan or bell housing would fracture in half when I switched to one jack to bring in/out the subframe but it survived. The jack point on oil pan for me was right above the exhaust pipe (removed). Overall it was smooth sailing, except for stripped out thread on one bolt hole where it goes to the right side of the front engine mount bracket. I just used a longer bolt to chase out the threads. Thanks again for your help.

 

Photos explain thousand words