Just made a video for my future reference and to help anyone else out that may be considering a starter replace. My way of giving back to these forums that has been very helpful to me in the past.
2005 Honda Odyssey DIY starter replace
Tripod
61 - 80 of 80 Posts
Joined
·
14,400 Posts
They must be. It came and fit just perfect. Been on there for about 40K now. With car-part.com the mileage being listed is hit and miss. If I had an IIHS crash test car with 24 miles on it I'd definitely advertise the miles. It was a rare find, for sure.
Joined
·
14,400 Posts
When I check RockAuto listings they show different part numbers but Car-part showed an interchange. All I know is it works great in my 2008.
Joined
·
49 Posts
I'll toss my 2 cents in on starters:
If you get a new or reman from a parts store or dealer, have them test it before you buy (or at least before you install). I have had DOA starters and alternators right out of the box. They may/will look at you funny, might even point out the "factory tested" sticker on the side of the box, just tell them you're a PITA and humor you
It is my understanding that reman parts are broken down, everything is tested, bad bits replaced, then re-assembled; so not every little wear item is replaced during a rebuild. Back in the day, places like NAPA used to sell starter repair kits, with new brushes and drives. I don't think anyone does that anymore.
If you get a new or reman from a parts store or dealer, have them test it before you buy (or at least before you install). I have had DOA starters and alternators right out of the box. They may/will look at you funny, might even point out the "factory tested" sticker on the side of the box, just tell them you're a PITA and humor you
It is my understanding that reman parts are broken down, everything is tested, bad bits replaced, then re-assembled; so not every little wear item is replaced during a rebuild. Back in the day, places like NAPA used to sell starter repair kits, with new brushes and drives. I don't think anyone does that anymore.
Joined
·
1,157 Posts
For the record and not for a minute casting doubt on your experience, 3 months ago I bought the exact same unit from oreillys and it hasnt missed a beat. I did see your review after I bought it but before I installed it. Went ahead and trusted it would be good based on the last ultima I installed in my Passport over a year earlier. Both reman in Mexico.
If I could let the van sit for up to a week I would tear the old one apart and fix it. Or buy a NEW oem quality one. I needed the van fixed now tho.
Joined
·
376 Posts
>>> Back in the day, places like NAPA used to sell starter repair kits, with new brushes and drives. I don't think anyone does that anymore
Agree, only problem with my starter was brushes got so short they got stuck. Put in an $80 one (new one) from Amazon, been fine 6 months so far, but am unable to find a new brush kit for the OE starter, which still bench tests fine (once brushes unstuck).
Agree, only problem with my starter was brushes got so short they got stuck. Put in an $80 one (new one) from Amazon, been fine 6 months so far, but am unable to find a new brush kit for the OE starter, which still bench tests fine (once brushes unstuck).
Joined
·
49 Posts
I'm gonna do some digging on this. If we can buy reman starters, then for sure the brushes are made somewhere by someone.
I picked up a used starter and alternator from a you-pull-it yard for next to nothing. Both work fine. My plan is to use them as spares while I rebuild the Denso parts on my car......or rebuild the ones I have.
Since I have a spare starter lying around, if I find brushes I might order them and see how they fit. Same with the starter solenoid plunger, those are easy to come by apparently. Might make a good DIY write up if there's interest!
Some of Ebayers also listed that 07-10 Odyssey starter interchanges with that of Pilot 09-15.
Scored an used starter on car-part.com from a 2015 Pilot 9K miles for $80 shipped for backup. Will have time to test, clean before the van needs it
Joined
·
54 Posts
Is that 33 ft lbs torque spec only for NON-VCM 2005 odysseys?
Mine is a 2005 EX-L with VCM. Autozone repair online is showing me 47 ft lbs on both bolts for j35a6 and j35a7 engines, which I think is for VCM engines. Any idea if that is accurate...should I use 47ft lbs on top and bottom starter bolts?
Also should one use anti-seize to put bolts back in? I keep hearing conflicting advice but it was a pain pulling those bolts out. I was thinking of putting on some of the anti-seize copper type on but only if it makes sense.
If so though, should torque spec be lowered, maybe 20% lower - like 38 ft -lbs on both bolts? Or am i better off with no anti-seize and putting bolts back in at 47 ft lbs?
Mine is a 2005 EX-L with VCM. Autozone repair online is showing me 47 ft lbs on both bolts for j35a6 and j35a7 engines, which I think is for VCM engines. Any idea if that is accurate...should I use 47ft lbs on top and bottom starter bolts?
Also should one use anti-seize to put bolts back in? I keep hearing conflicting advice but it was a pain pulling those bolts out. I was thinking of putting on some of the anti-seize copper type on but only if it makes sense.
If so though, should torque spec be lowered, maybe 20% lower - like 38 ft -lbs on both bolts? Or am i better off with no anti-seize and putting bolts back in at 47 ft lbs?
Joined
·
376 Posts
>>>> only problem with my starter was brushes got so short they got stuck. Put in an $80 one (new one) from Amazon, been fine 6 months so far, but am unable to find a new brush kit for the OE starter, which still bench tests fine (once brushes unstuck).
Finally found brushes that actually fit my 2005 Ody EX-L OE Mitsuba starter motor model: CME SM-44242 4G, only $6 shipped from:
https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/54913021.html
and here they are, just a bit of soldering and I will have a $6 OE replacement starter, whoho!
![]()
Finally found brushes that actually fit my 2005 Ody EX-L OE Mitsuba starter motor model: CME SM-44242 4G, only $6 shipped from:
https://www.maniacelectricmotors.com/54913021.html
and here they are, just a bit of soldering and I will have a $6 OE replacement starter, whoho!
I wrote an entire rebuild of SM442-42 starter here, along with a starter test video: https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/15-7th-generation/534929-starter-rebuild-v6-if-you-feel-like.html
A new complete brush assembly can be purchased here, no soldering needed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132488405814
A new complete brush assembly can be purchased here, no soldering needed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132488405814
Joined
·
376 Posts
>>A new complete brush assembly can be purchased here, no soldering needed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/132488405814[/QUOTE]
t-rd, thanks, but the problem I have is that that part does not show that it replaces specifically the CME SM-442-42 (the -42 is the problem), or the brush assembly I have (31208-RKB-004), and mine looks a lot different, but it may fit anyway and worth a try if my soldering fails. Thanks!
Pic in next message, mine is all black plastic brush holder, ebay item metal on substrate, maybe would fit anyway.
t-rd, thanks, but the problem I have is that that part does not show that it replaces specifically the CME SM-442-42 (the -42 is the problem), or the brush assembly I have (31208-RKB-004), and mine looks a lot different, but it may fit anyway and worth a try if my soldering fails. Thanks!
Pic in next message, mine is all black plastic brush holder, ebay item metal on substrate, maybe would fit anyway.
Joined
·
376 Posts
Read my rebuild document. It WORKS.
Honda does not sell the one with the plastic shroud anymore, just go look it up yourself: 2005 Odyssey EXL AT | Starter Motor (Mitsuba)
Honda sells the one I posted, for $90. The one I posted off ebay costs $15.
Honda does not sell the one with the plastic shroud anymore, just go look it up yourself: 2005 Odyssey EXL AT | Starter Motor (Mitsuba)
Honda sells the one I posted, for $90. The one I posted off ebay costs $15.
Joined
·
376 Posts
t-rd, no more plastic, so that's what's going on, no wonder I could never get a match. Thanks!
I've got a 2000 and it says the brush kit that t-Rd bought will work for my starter. I'm going to pull the trigger and buy them. I have 225,000 miles on my starter and thinking it's going to give up the ghost sooner rather than later. Also, I just did a set of brushes in my alternator. Best $10 that I spent on the Odyessy this year. Here's what the worn and replacement alternator brushes looked like.
Attachments
If you replace the starter and upper radiator hose, you don't need to remove the battery tray.
1. raise the front, remove underneath shield, remove top plastic above the radiator cap
2. loose coolant drain plug (passenger side)
3. remove battery
4. remove upper rad. hose (use OTC hose removal hook)
5. remove bracket bolted to battery tray
6. remove oil dip stick, use tape to cover hole (dust on starter won't drop in)
7. remove bolt at the bracket that hold lower rad. hose
8. disconnect the lower rad. hose at the engine, then tie it to the front
9. remove the positive to starter
10. remove the negative to starter
11. remove 2 bolts held ground cable to the top front frame at radiator (get more room)
12. remove lower, upper bolts at starter
slide the starter to the driver side
move the lower rad. hose to the back
point starter up then out
1. raise the front, remove underneath shield, remove top plastic above the radiator cap
2. loose coolant drain plug (passenger side)
3. remove battery
4. remove upper rad. hose (use OTC hose removal hook)
5. remove bracket bolted to battery tray
6. remove oil dip stick, use tape to cover hole (dust on starter won't drop in)
7. remove bolt at the bracket that hold lower rad. hose
8. disconnect the lower rad. hose at the engine, then tie it to the front
9. remove the positive to starter
10. remove the negative to starter
11. remove 2 bolts held ground cable to the top front frame at radiator (get more room)
12. remove lower, upper bolts at starter
slide the starter to the driver side
move the lower rad. hose to the back
point starter up then out
I just replaced starter and AT filter. Here are my comments:
1. My van is 2005 with 130k miles. 16 yr on a starter is pretty good.
2. As reference, after tax, both dealership and local repair shop charge around $750-800 for starter replacement. I bought OEM rebuilt starter for $450 after tax (before core return), plus other misc AT parts and wiper for another $50.
3. I talked to dealership, OEM new starter only has 1 yr warranty while OEM rebuilt has 3 yr warranty, and they use rebuilt starters in their shop. I was surprised to hear that since new starter is only $20 more than rebuilt. I bought rebuilt as it has longer warranty, and the new ones are not in stock even in regional warehouse.
4. Battery tray removal is a pain. The bolt below ABS module should be touched the last and only be loosened slightly because the tray can be slided out.
5. I did not remove ABS module plug because I was afraid of it not working afterwards. I did remove 3 bolts that held the ABS module. That was helpful for AT filter change and give a little more room for starter removal.
6. Starter bolts were on tight even though it's only supposedly 47 ft lb. I used a breaker bar to loosen the bolts.
7. I got the Kobalt 90 deg cordless impact wrench from Lowes because it claims to have 180 ft lb torque. Well, it couldn't loosen the bolt. It will be returned.
8. Starter bolts are 47 ft lb for both upper and lower bolts, per my factory repair manual.
9. AT filter is right there to access. Banjo bolt doesn't need to be removed. Just remove 2 bolts upstream of the AT tube that held down the tube. Once 3 bolts holding the cover is removed, you can push the cover out of the way to access the filter.
10. The whole process took me about 3.5 hours.
Hopefully this is good for a while.
1. My van is 2005 with 130k miles. 16 yr on a starter is pretty good.
2. As reference, after tax, both dealership and local repair shop charge around $750-800 for starter replacement. I bought OEM rebuilt starter for $450 after tax (before core return), plus other misc AT parts and wiper for another $50.
3. I talked to dealership, OEM new starter only has 1 yr warranty while OEM rebuilt has 3 yr warranty, and they use rebuilt starters in their shop. I was surprised to hear that since new starter is only $20 more than rebuilt. I bought rebuilt as it has longer warranty, and the new ones are not in stock even in regional warehouse.
4. Battery tray removal is a pain. The bolt below ABS module should be touched the last and only be loosened slightly because the tray can be slided out.
5. I did not remove ABS module plug because I was afraid of it not working afterwards. I did remove 3 bolts that held the ABS module. That was helpful for AT filter change and give a little more room for starter removal.
6. Starter bolts were on tight even though it's only supposedly 47 ft lb. I used a breaker bar to loosen the bolts.
7. I got the Kobalt 90 deg cordless impact wrench from Lowes because it claims to have 180 ft lb torque. Well, it couldn't loosen the bolt. It will be returned.
8. Starter bolts are 47 ft lb for both upper and lower bolts, per my factory repair manual.
9. AT filter is right there to access. Banjo bolt doesn't need to be removed. Just remove 2 bolts upstream of the AT tube that held down the tube. Once 3 bolts holding the cover is removed, you can push the cover out of the way to access the filter.
10. The whole process took me about 3.5 hours.
Hopefully this is good for a while.
61 - 80 of 80 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
