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I actually bought these spacers couple of years ago.
We had several odysseys and I just documented the last replacement I had to do.
Thanks for the info. I ordered a set of those bearings and I'll might replace the rollers when I have time. No problem with them at the moment but they are probably getting loose, or will eventually.
 

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If this works - great. I live on gravel and I have to replace both sides every 2 years. The nylon bearing and the gravel dust dont mix.
 

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The roller guide rail channels are made of stainless steel and no wear and tear or noise concerns.
The roller pins are made of mild steel and harder than the brass. Brass spacers will wear on the steel pins much slower than the nylon material.
No friction concerns for the ball bearings as the inner lace is always stationary.
do you have a part number for the Zinc plated brass spacers? And source?
 

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do you have a part number for the Zinc plated brass spacers? And source?
McMaster-Carr, McMaster.com
Brass unthreaded spacer,
90309A331
, $1.94 ea. upto qty. 9. $1.64 ea for qty. 10+.
Stainless steel e-rings,
98408A124, $5.20 pkg. 25.

These are what I bought back in 2015, the pricing is current. Shipping will be around 6 bucks.
This makes ebay Chinese stainless steel sealed bearing options much more attractive.
 

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If this works - great. I live on gravel and I have to replace both sides every 2 years. The nylon bearing and the gravel dust dont mix.
SS bearings would be a better option for you, as the inner lace of the bearing will preserve the steel pins from the wear. Especially with graphite and other hard mineral contaminants.
Once you have the shafts prepped it only takes about 15 mins. to replace the rollers or bearings. Each pins will take about 5 mins ea. to prepare.

A tip to easily remove the taillight after two screws are removed is to use a shoelace or string hooked near the rail, and pull the taillight backward. Plastic snap comes off real easy.
 

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I recently replaced the middle roller assembly in my 2007 LX. The large center roller was completely gone, and the smaller nylon rollers were about half the normal size. On the LX the larger center roller is nylon.

One thing to note - I was not able to get the pin out of the hinge bracket, despite lots of solvent and pounding on it on the workbench. The pin was fused to part of the old roller assembly (one of the shafts it runs through inside the spring), so I had to cut the pin out of the bracket and buy a new pin ($12). The new pin went into the assembly easily.

I suspect that 9 years of winter salt may have cause the pin to get firmly stuck. One think to note about the pin that I had not read previously in these posts - it has a knurled section for about 3/8" just below the flat end of the pin - this is the only part that you should have to 'unstick' when you pound it out.
 

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After going thorugh this long thread, I have a question on the roller's part number. I need to change the rollers on my 2008 LX Odyssey. So if I understand, I need to order part 72521-SHJ-A01 for the right sliding door. But here in Canada, I can't get this part. I can only get the 72521-SHJ-A21. Is that part going to work on a non-powered sliding door or I absolutely need the A01?
 

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Bought replacement Dorman rollers from eBay seller tennesseeautosales. Bought the PAIR L and R for 33.49 and free shipping. For that price had to take the chance. Will post back if they fall apart but installed tonight and are working fine.
 

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I found plastic rollers at Home Depot in the Hardware bin drawers. It's a 1/4" plastic roller/sleeve. Similar size.
My rollers were completely gone and I hammered into the pins.
Not a permanent fix but works fine after a week. Took about 30 minutes.
 

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I found plastic rollers at Home Depot in the Hardware bin drawers. It's a 1/4" plastic roller/sleeve. Similar size.
My rollers were completely gone and I hammered into the pins.
Not a permanent fix but works fine after a week. Took about 30 minutes.
30 minutes for shopping parts and replacement, strong
 

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I also replaced my on both my vans, True Value had the little wheels for under a buck each. They also had metal roller bearings that looked like they may work but at more than 10 times the cost I went the cheap route. That's a back up plan though if the plastic ones fail quickly.
 

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Just want to send a thank you for eric the car guy for his youtube video. did the passenger side about 2 years ago and did the drivers side yesterday. took 5 minutes!
 

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I am usually NOT a Dorman fan but I've used the Dorman roller assemblies on these. They are very good quality and not made in China. They were every bit as good quality as the OEM and easy to pick up at most parts stores locally.
 

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To those who still have a problem after replacing the roller:
I replaced mine with OEM part from Amazon but still did not close and open properly even after adjusting the door hinges and lubing all the tracks. The door seemed to speed up just before it closes with the new rollers and abruptly would open up thinking something is jamming the door. I saw on one of the videos that the door electronics need to be RESET by disconnecting Power Door fuse. after putting in the new roller. That solved my problem.

I guess after 12 years the door learns the tension and adjust for it. With the new roller the power door fuse needs to be disconnected then reinstalled to RESET the power doors.
 

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Does anyone know how to get the door aligned. I used marker to draw around the hinge but the back is sagging down and the front bottom is too tight the door does not close. The passenger side worked just fine. Although on both sides for my 2002 I had to take the hinges off and use a blow torch to get the pin out ugh. I did take apart the interior panels to get to release the tension on the cables.
 

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I just replaced passenger side middle roller on my 2010 EX-L this morning. Took maybe 1.5 hours from getting tools out to cleanup.

Notes and highlights:
Used the dorman part 924-129 from advance. No issues with fit.
Decided to leave the bracket on the door and hammer the pin out while on the door to avoid alignment issues. This was the trickiest part. Used a long socket extension and set it on top of the pin.
Propped the door up with a stool and wood blocks. My jack didn't seem stable enough.
Used the trick of putting one roller in the track as leverage to get the cable disconnected. Honestly this went easier than I expected. Almost seemed like the mechanism for the cable was spring-loaded, so with some pull, you get more length to work with.
Cleaned up the pin and bracket with steel wool and put a bit of lithium grease on the surface and pin.
With a bit of manipulation, hammered the pin back in. Not overly tricky.

After skimming this forum, and some prep, my total outlay was $38 and 1.5 hours. Honestly was easier than expected. I'm sure some have more stubborn pins that could slow things down considerably.
 

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Using bent needle nose pliers to unhook and hook the cable made those tasks an absolute breeze. As dlaffoon mentioned, it seemed like the mechanism for the cable was spring-loaded, so with some pull, you get more length to work with.

I put a piece of cardboard behind the rollers to protect the paint, and I kept the roller as close to the van a possible in order to achieve maximum slack.

I replaced the center rollers on both sliding doors of my 2007 Odyssey EX. Thanks to other people's tips and YouTube videos, my son and I did both doors in less than an hour.
 

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