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Piece of cake

I followed greyghost's step-by-step instructions and I think it took me longer to get out my tools and keep my three-year old out of them than it did to perform the roller replacement.

Thank you for the detailed instructions, it was a breeze.

Additionally, I got the part delivered from MajesticHonda for $70 after the dealer wanted to charge me $95!!
 
My '05s drivre side door has a hitch (that is to say it sometimes stops opening and then closes on its own). My question is this: how do I determine which hinge part is the problem? Can I just do the disassembly and then see the problem?
 
roller inspection

Following the disassembly instructions will give you a very quick and easy way to check the rollers. If it's the one specific to the thread you'll know as the nylon rollers will be crack or gone.
 
RFryer said:


One problem I had was trying to remove the panel. I was banging away on it trying to get it to slide to the rear, but it turns out it slides to the front to release! After that it was smooth sailing.

I just came here to post the same thing. Maybe the original post can be edited to indicate that. It seemed obvious to me that the OP had it backwards once I thought about how the screw at the front of the door was attached to the rail. on getting it out of there, too, i found having the door about halfway open gave me the most room to manouvre it out of there.


spamky said:
My '05s drivre side door has a hitch (that is to say it sometimes stops opening and then closes on its own). My question is this: how do I determine which hinge part is the problem? Can I just do the disassembly and then see the problem?
late reply, but in case anybody else comes along with the same question... it's pretty much guaranteed to be a problem with the male assembly part. And for those that think about ordering it, make sure they don't send you the part for the LX. it won't work!
 
For my LX, I am glancing at this setup, I think it can be done without the need to remove rail cover and tail light.

The way I see it, let's say you replace the passenger's side roller:

1. Open the passenger sliding door only 3-4 inches.

2. Support the door with floor jack and rag as mentioned in the 1st thread.
A 2nd person to help is a great idea here!

3. Loosen the bolts holding the roller assembly, but do not remove them yet!

4. Now enter the van via the driver's side sliding door and remove the 2 bolts holding the roller assembly and wiggle the roller assembly out.

5. Assembly is simply reverse.

This way you do NOT have to remove the rail cover plate.
 
McDadx3 said:
2004 Odyssey....
Read various threads on here....went to Lowes, bought the nylon rollers and e clips....fixed both doors this morning in about an hour for less than $10.
My van is 2007 Ody LX. I noticed that you fixed your 2004 using rollers from Lowes, interesting!

I borrowed the pic below from 2nd Gen Forum and see that:

1- Steel Bearing should last life of the van.

2- Plastic Rollers look like can be replaced using Hardware parts for $10 (maybe $2.00 for each roller at hardware store; $0.50 for each E-clip).

------------------
Info for roller and E-clip for 2nd Gen Ody is here:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=63167

Nylon Spacer: 1/2" x 0.194" x 1/4". They are in the hardware section in the pull out bins or go to your local Ace hardware etc.

5/32" E-clips. They are in the same section. They are round and will snap right into the groove of the pin.


-----------------

Does anyone know the exact size of the 3rd Gen roller (I.D., O.D. and thickness) and the size of the E-clip?
 

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@doggie

I don't have a copy in front me, but I read the exclusions in my Hondacare extended warranty and specifically stated are sliding door rollers.

I did the repair myself with minimal difficulty. Rread the thread thoroughly, work carefully, and you will have no problems.
 
mtbiker said:
@doggie

I don't have a copy in front me, but I read the exclusions in my Hondacare extended warranty and specifically stated are sliding door rollers.

I did the repair myself with minimal difficulty. Rread the thread thoroughly, work carefully, and you will have no problems.
thanks for the info mtbiker
 
fixed both sides of our 2005 LX tonight. Wow, it was simple compared to what I thought it would be. Nice too b/c ours doesn't have the power sliding door, so NO cable to mess with.

Only problem now is the door latch that holds the door closed on the drivers side, has been acting up and will need to be replaced too. The passanger one went out just after warranty expired, but they covered it as we had it in for service for the same issue once prior to warranty expired and they just lubed it and said it was fine. Guessing, the door latch is gonna run a few hundred to fix :(.

I think dealer wanted like $300-350 per door to fix the rooler/hinge assembly with labor/parts and I think both sides cost me <$100 total to fix both sides. Can't see how they justify those labor prices when it takes about 20-30 minutes to fix each side :(.
 
After I got it all back together the door wouldn't close (or open) using the power mode. I ended up having to perform the reset procedure listed here.
Great instructions. It worked fabulously. I changed the passenger side door roller and every opener opens the door with the exception of the outside door handle. I will start and then either stop and then reverse back to the start, or just stop. It does this 1 -3 times and then it seems to work fine. Should I need to reset the door again. I followed the procedure, with the only exception being the passer side fuse #7 was not for the instrument panel. Any suggestions?
 
For my LX, I am glancing at this setup, I think it can be done without the need to remove rail cover and tail light.

The way I see it, let's say you replace the passenger's side roller:

1. Open the passenger sliding door only 3-4 inches.

2. Support the door with floor jack and rag as mentioned in the 1st thread.
A 2nd person to help is a great idea here!

3. Loosen the bolts holding the roller assembly, but do not remove them yet!

4. Now enter the van via the driver's side sliding door and remove the 2 bolts holding the roller assembly and wiggle the roller assembly out.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FYI:

2001 LX, Replaced center roller. Yes, you do not have to remove anything.

Just open door, a few inches, remove assy. Just follow instructions.

Very easy fix. Did mine a couple of days ago.
 
Does anyone know the exact size of the 3rd Gen roller (I.D., O.D. and thickness) and the size of the E-clip?

cnn asked the question above, but no one answered. As cnn mentioned, the 2nd Gen Ody owners have been replacing the nylon rollers instead of replacing the entire assembly ( http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/63167-02-sliding-door-repair-under-5-00-a.html ). My buddy did this on his 2nd Gen Ody and used the McMaster brass spacer part 90309A332 and it worked perfectly. I would like to do the same on my 2005 Odyssey, but I want to confirm the size of the nylon roller before ordering the McMaster brass spacers.
 
Does anyone know the exact size of the 3rd Gen roller (I.D., O.D. and thickness) and the size of the E-clip?

cnn asked the question above, but no one answered. As cnn mentioned, the 2nd Gen Ody owners have been replacing the nylon rollers instead of replacing the entire assembly...
BSQ,

I just looked at an online picture of the 2005-2010 Sliding Door Hardware.
The Plastic Roller and E-clip "seem" identical in size as the 2nd Gen Ody.
I have every reason to believe that these parts (Plastic Roller and E-clip) are the same for 2nd vs 3rd Gen Ody.

Best is for you to remove the Sliding Door Hardware and take it to Lowes (Lowes has an extensive selection of these odds and ends rollers, E-clips) and find a match.

Attached is the pic for 2005-2010 Sliding Door Hardware:
 

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Please do. I am going to attempt fixing with the Lowe's parts this weekend so that we can use the door, but I would be willing to go with a more permanent fix like yours if it works.
I received the brass spacers from McMaster. Hopefully I can install them within the next few days. I will be sure to let everyone know how they work out. I will also take pictures of the brass spacers installed.
 
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