I just fixed my 2006 LX without removing the rail cover- easy fix by opening door only a few inches. Thanks for the directions.

 

Your welcome. One advantage of having manual sliding doors!

 

Does anyone know the exact size of the 3rd Gen roller (I.D., O.D. and thickness) and the size of the E-clip?

cnn asked the question above, but no one answered. As cnn mentioned, the 2nd Gen Ody owners have been replacing the nylon rollers instead of replacing the entire assembly ( http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-1999-2004-odyssey/63167-02-sliding-door-repair-under-5-00-a.html ). My buddy did this on his 2nd Gen Ody and used the McMaster brass spacer part 90309A332 and it worked perfectly. I would like to do the same on my 2005 Odyssey, but I want to confirm the size of the nylon roller before ordering the McMaster brass spacers.

 

Does anyone know the exact size of the 3rd Gen roller (I.D., O.D. and thickness) and the size of the E-clip?

cnn asked the question above, but no one answered. As cnn mentioned, the 2nd Gen Ody owners have been replacing the nylon rollers instead of replacing the entire assembly...

BSQ,

I just looked at an online picture of the 2005-2010 Sliding Door Hardware.
The Plastic Roller and E-clip "seem" identical in size as the 2nd Gen Ody.
I have every reason to believe that these parts (Plastic Roller and E-clip) are the same for 2nd vs 3rd Gen Ody.

Best is for you to remove the Sliding Door Hardware and take it to Lowes (Lowes has an extensive selection of these odds and ends rollers, E-clips) and find a match.

Attached is the pic for 2005-2010 Sliding Door Hardware:

 

cnn, thanks for the information. I will let everyone know when I install the brass spacers from McMaster.

 

Please do. I am going to attempt fixing with the Lowe's parts this weekend so that we can use the door, but I would be willing to go with a more permanent fix like yours if it works.

 

Whether people use the brass spacers from McMaster or the Plastic Rollers from Lowes (BTW, each spacer is 30 cents at hardware store, so you lose basically nothing by getting 4 of these; 2 per sliding door).

There is a way to do this without removing the tail light and trim piece etc.

1. Open the sliding door about 2 feet to expose the two (2) 12-mm bolts.
Loosen these bolts but do NOT remove them.

2. Now slide the door toward close but do not close it. Leave it ajar about 2-3 inches.

3. Using a floor jack with a rag to support the bottom of the sliding door, remove these 2 bolts and wiggle the hardware out.

4. Remove E-clips using a pair of pliers.
You can always re-use the E-clips.

5. If the new space is a tad thick, then you can always use sand paper to sand it down a touch.
If you have a measuring caliper, that is better because you can use it to measure the thickness.

You should be able to do each door in 30 min, including beer time LOL.

 

Thanks for the info. Will this work for powered doors as well, or just manual doors?

 

2008 LX Right side sliding door roller replacement..

I just replaced the right side roller on my 2008 LX @ 41Kmi yesterday. It started acting crunchy when opening/closing, then shed the nylon cover off the center roller and got REAL noisy.

I removed the rail cover (thankfully discovered on this thread!) and supported the door on an inverted plastic bucket. The hardest part for me was pressing the pin out of the factory assembly so I could install the new roller assembly onto the OEM bracket. Things were corroded a bit thanks to the winters.

I swear I didn't notice any circlips holding the rollers onto the new assy, although they could have been there. I just assumed they were pressed on somehow.

I also noticed a disturbing amount of rust on the inside of the rail cover. Something that likely wouldn't be apparent for years.. but still. :nothappy:

Neither of these two issues (rollers or rust) should be happening this early, but I guess it was cheap and easy enough to repair for now. I didn't pursue a dealer/warranty repair due to a big dent in the right side slider door. I'm sure they say the roller got destroyed by that particular parking lot 'hit' that's been there for 2.5yrs.

FWIW, I got the new OEM roller assy from eBay. $30 shipped.

Oh.. It did take some fiddling to get the door set back to it's original alignment. The first time it rubbed badly, the second attempt, it closed funny. I just had to loosen the two roller bracket bolts and reposition the door a few times until I got it.

 

I replaced the rollers on my wife's 2005 Odyssey this weekend. I used brass spacers which are zinc platted that measured ID=.192" OD=1/2" H=3/16". The part number for the spacers is 90309A331. Here is the link -- McMaster-Carr.

The OEM rollers where still intact when I removed the roller assembly, but the rollers were showing some wear. The inside diameter of the roller was enlarged which made the roller not roll smoothly. I did have to use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the rollers in half to remove them. I also used the Dremel to removed the cut the metal ring which held the roller on.

After I removed the roller, I applied grease to the roller post and installed the brass roller and then secured it with a 5/32" e-clip (see picture below). I also cleaned the bottom track and re-greased it. The door opened and closed much easier and quieter after the installation.

 

Great to hear, thanks for the info!

 

I asked to have the two electric side doors greased during my A1 service this last week on my 07 Touring as the passenger side door had a slight squeak. When I picked the van up from service the dealership said that I should consider getting the center ridge roller bearings replaced if it starts to squeak again.
Quoted price for both doors was $149.62 for parts and $315 for labour.

 

Hi guys,

Anyone thought about replacing the plastic or nylon wheels with proper sealed roller bearings? I'm sure I could find some that was the right size somewhere, possibly a hobby shop?

While I like BSQ's idea of a more permanent solution by using the brass spacers, I'm thinking that "something" still has to wear and by putting the brass in there, perhaps the rail will then wear more. I think its MUCH easier to replace the wheels, even several times throughout the life of the van if necessary than the whole rail. However bearings may be a more permanent solution and the wear may be contained to within the bearings themselves which are designed for a LOT more life than the use it would see in the life of the van.

Any thoughts from you all?

Cheers...
D

 

I'm not sure if there are roller bearings the size of the rollers. I did a search online and I was unable to locate a bearing of this size.

On the question of wear. The rail is made from stainless steel, so the brass roller would be the softer of the two materials. I did lubricate the shaft that the brass roller is mounted to with bearing grease, so there should be little to no wear of the inside bore of the roller.

I would estimate that the brass rollers will have a longer service life than the plastic rollers that it came equiped with.

 

By the way, for those interested NTN has their catalog online and I found 2 of their bearings that appear to fit, part numbers RA3ZZ and/or WBC5-13ZZ. No idea where to purchase them, and likely other bearing manufacturers have some too that would fit.

I'm still undecided on how I'm going to repair mine, looks like these are the options:
- replace bracket with new Honda bracket with new wheels
- retain existing bracket and replace wheels with nylon spacers from Lowes
- retain existing bracket and replace wheels with brass spacers like BSQ did
- retain existing bracket and replace wheels with sealed roller bearings

:huh:

 

By the way, for those interested NTN has their catalog online and I found 2 of their bearings that appear to fit, part numbers RA3ZZ and/or WBC5-13ZZ. No idea where to purchase them, and likely other bearing manufacturers have some too that would fit.

I'm still undecided on how I'm going to repair mine, looks like these are the options:
- replace bracket with new Honda bracket with new wheels
- retain existing bracket and replace wheels with nylon spacers from Lowes
- retain existing bracket and replace wheels with brass spacers like BSQ did
- retain existing bracket and replace wheels with sealed roller bearings

Go with the road less traveled and let us know how it works. You'll have web forum immortality.

 

Well I'm trying the brass rollers now as my plastic replacement (ACE version) seems to have disintegrated since my repair which was a year or 2 ago.

 

I have searched but cannot find. Does anyone know where I can find a tutorial or video on how to remove the sliding door panel the whole inside to get to the actuator?

 

This is a related post (2005 Ody Right Side sliding door latch), but it does not tell you exactly how to remove the Sliding Door Panel:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/54192-2005-ody-ls-sliding-door-latch.html


I just checked my Technical Manual, here it is:

1. Open the sliding door a bit.

2. Lower the Glass fully.

3. Remove power window switch by:
- prying on the REAR edge of the switch with a trim tool (of flat screw driver wrapped in cloth).
- the switch is held by hooks & a fastener (clip) at the REAR, it will pop out with the pry tool.
- d/c electrical connection.


4. The Inner Door Handle is held by a C-clip. So use a wire hook to remove it (or a tool to spread the tips apart so it can be removed).
Then remove the Inner Door Handle.

5. The Door Panel is held by approx. 11 clips.
Pry it out using a Trim Tool (or flat screwdriver wrapped in cloth).

6. If you have sunshade, then remove the screws on the sunshade.


PS: You may need some clips from dealer before re-installing the Panel.
It is about $1.50 each.
Napa also carries some generic clips that may fit.
So get a few of these clips beforehand.

* Please take some pics and post them for future reference as others will likely need them!

 

I replaced my left side roller last night. Very easy to do. Only issue I had was the screw to remove the side panel. Ended up using the needle nose to pull it out.

Door kind of clicks loud when I open it, but it locks and seals and opens without issue. Anyone have any ideas on why it makes a loud POP sound? The bracket is mounted in the same position as it was when I took it off.

 

Thanks for the great post. Both doors on my '07 EX have been having these problems -- to the point of not being able to use the doors at all. I replaced the passenger side center roller male hinge this morning and it was a breeze thanks to this thread. The driver's side part is on order and I'll do that one next weekend. I originally took it to an independent Honda repair shop (that I typically trust) and they quoted me $800 parts and labor, both doors! Turns out, they believed the doors needed to be removed to do it. Dealership knows better, but they still quoted me $500+ for both doors. $120 parts and I'll be back in business.

Very interested in the sub-thread about just replacing the actual rollers with parts from Lowes or McMaster. I'm sticking with factory parts this time, but if they fail again during my ownership I'm definitely going to look at other options. On the one I took out this morning I noticed that one roller is completely gone while the other is flattened and both roller axles are bent. Can they be straightened and then steel rollers installed on them?

 

Great thread thanks everyone for posting.

Has anyone been able to source the replacement unit in Canada? Dealer has them for $65, which is double the price I have seen in the US. Need to replace both; I'll do the one OEM and then use the old part as a template for figuring out how to repair in the future, since I know this will happen again. Bearings would be ideal, but try and find the right one.

McMaster Carr will not ship to Canada.

 

If you're still looking for them, I ordered them from a Honda dealer in USA and had them shipped to me in Toronto. I paid $35 each + $30 shipping, and got hit with 13% HST at the door, took a while but still much cheaper than the local rip-off guys.

BTW, I had 2 sets sent to me as I had 2 vans to fix (mine and my neighbour's) so the shipping was spread over 4 instead of 2 (flat rate to ship to Canada).

If you want more info, send me a PM.

Cheers...
D.

 

Which honda dealer did you get to ship to Canada? I have emailed several and they all say they cannot ship across the border, or would prefer not to.

 

Yea, it's hard to find them that will because once Honda USA finds out, they get a letter and told to terminate that practice (or else...). This is one of the primary reasons I hate Honda (the company, not the vehicles!). Instead of solving the root cause and implementing price uniformity across the border as many other companies have in MANY other industries, they simply perpetuate and "protect" the issue.

Anyway, that's a totally seperate topic. Without revealing who I last purchased from that did send to me in Canada as I don't want to get them in trouble either, I'll say that some of the dealers have setup web sites that don't reveal that they are actually a Honda dealer and will accept an order to have it shipped to Canada.

Just spend some time on google and look for the part number you're looking for and you'll find them.

Good luck....
D.

 

As I mentioned before, in 99% of the time, the only thing that goes wrong is the 2 plastic rollers, which you can find at local hardware store for a few bucks.

No need for the whole assembly.

 

Not to disagree with you, but I just did 2 vans (mine = 2005, my neighbors = 2007) and on 3 of 4 of the hinges at least one of the pins (the pin that goes through the centre of the rollers) had become loose from the bracket. In those cases just replacing the wheels with the nylon ones from the hardware store would not have resolved the issue.

Anyway, that's just what I saw... obviuosly others here have had "solid" pins to work with. Nevertheless, my intention was to replace the entire brackets and then replace the wheels on the old brackets to use the next time, alas that's not an option for me now that I see the problem on mine.

BTW, the most FRUSTRATING part of this whole topic is that Honda has NOT changed the design at all on the new 2012 vans! Maybe different part number but the design is exactly the same WRT the nylon/plastic rollers and rail interface. How disappointing!

Cheers...
D.

 

This is the thing that i push from the outside to get the door moving smoothly.

My driver side sliding door is so bad that it reverses its operation all the time. when i open it, it closes and when i try to close it opens. I tried looking for dust or particles in the roller path but everything is clean.

Then from the outside, getting on the rear side of the door, i push this part and then the door moves smoothly. It seems that i was correcting the angle at which this is set against the door. Reading this post it seems that this part went bad.

I have no problems on the passenger side as that was used very less.

Anyone know how much does the dealer charge to replace this part?

 

One arm and one leg! I'm sure it's over $300 for a dealer.

 

I'll admit right up front that I haven't read through this thread yet, but the very first post assured me that this weekend I will be tearing into the passenger sliding door on my wifes van to fix the cable and possibly some rollers.

Short version:
packing up for 2000 mile trip last Tuesday morning.
5 kids in van waiting to pull out of garage.
Kids fighting in back seat understandbly antsy to get going
My temper goes out the window and I grab the rear door and pull "too hard" and funny cracking/popping/"Oh Crap" noise ensues.
Door stuck open, won't move
22 degrees outside
All 7 of us drive to Honda dealer wth door wide open
strange looks from all passerbys
Luckily went to high school with service Mgr and live next door to head service tech
20 minutes we're back on the road with door shut and no charge

now 1 week later, I have to tear apart to actually fix whatevers broken.

"Cable and possibly roller". They just did enough to get door shut, which was more than I could've asked for with my wife chewing my a** for losing my temper.

Anyway, looking forward to playing with it this weekend and reading up on some threads about it so I know what's up. Thanks again in advance. This forum is great. :cheers:

Edit: It really stinks driving 2000 miles with only one functioning rear door with 7 people packed in like sardines.

 

So the passenger side on my 2006 LX has been getting stuck and feeling rough lately. I didn't realize it was something more than just greasing it (which I did and that fixed the roughness for a few weeks).


Today, after reading this thread, one of the plastic rollers just fell out of my track. So 2 questions:


1) Can I still do the Lowe's replacement method without having to take the door off, or is it likely I have lost the pin, too and will need a whole new assembly from the stealer.


2) Can you replace the rollers in the driver's side without taking off the door?


Thanks for your help!

 

Hi deadpish,
It’s not easy to tell if the pin is in-tact without taking the bracket out, but that’s not a hard thing to do. And to answer your 2nd question, no you don’t need to take the door off, especially on an LX without the power door function.

Simply open the door half-way, support the rear of the door on an overturned bucket or something to take the weight of the door off the rear hinge, mark where the hinge is now with a marker or something similar then remove the 2 bolts on the hinge and slide it out. 10-minutes and you’re done.

Once you’ve done that, you can then tell whether you can just put new rollers on or have to get a whole new bracket.

Good luck….
D.

 

Thanks to all on this thread and OP for providing detailed instructions.

I just changed the rollers on my 06 ody EXL, driver side sliding door. I got the rollers from lowes.One of the roller was completely gone. Removing the light assembly took some time as i was kinda scared to damage the part or break something. There is no way to push the roller from lowes in as there is a metal-ring like thing on the top that holds the roller in. I hammered that. Then I made a step in the roller by drilling on one end so that the hammered metal-ring goes in that step so that the roller can freely roll. Also removing and attaching the cables took the most time. You will need 2 persons when putting the cable back on.

Now The door does not close. It goes all the way to closing position and then make a loud sound and reopen. So I slide the power-door switch and change it to manual. Then i am able to push the door in. Once it is closed, I cannot open it in manual mode. I have to use automatic mode to open the door which opens just fine without any hiccups showing that the rollers are doing their job.

is the door not aligned properly which is causing it to re-open? Or i just changed one roller which is causing this problem? Please help.

 

I figured out what was wrong. The door was not aligned properly. I had to raise the door a little bit. Thanks to all I was able to fix this and avoid getting my pockets picked.

 

Can you tell specifically which part to ask for at Lowe's? One of my rollers fell out the other day and is pretty warped, almost oval. Is it necessary to mod this new part with a drill? Glad you were able to save some money!

 

Big Thanks! to the OP GreyGhost, cnn, BSQ, dcaranci, iamritesh and everyone that contributed to this thread.

Both sliding doors were malfunctioning, and I went to the local dealership. They quoted me +/-$1000Cdn for both sides. I decided to leave the doors as they were, while I scoured the web for alternatives. Which led me to this forum.

I found that the nylon rollers disintegrated and the pins that held them were a bit unstable. They probably became that way after the rollers fell apart & exposed the pins sliding onto the rail without support. I replaced the nylon rollers & secured them with new e-clips, which I purchased from Lowe's for less than $6.00Cdn, enough for both sliding doors.

Here's what I did:

1. Set doors to "manual." Then open door slightly to ajar, enough to see the rollers and the rail.
2. Support the sliding door with hydraulic jack, protect the door with rags/towel.
3. Unbolt the roller assembly from door. Then slide assembly manually along rail to the middle.
4. Unhook the cables, both left & right. Remove the roller assembly, by tilting it slightly upwards & out.
5. Use rotary tool to cut the existing e-clips.
6. Sand down the new nylon rollers until they fit snug to the pins.
7. Secure new e-clips in place, and replace the parts back onto the van. Release hydraulic jack.
8. Adjust the bolts that hold the roller assembly onto the door, until sliding door closes properly & safely.
9. Dust off your hands, grab a brew, and just be glad you only spent $6.00 & not $1000!

So far so good, the doors have been functioning well for about two months now. Every once in awhile it stops midway from open to close, which I'm assuming to be related to the unstable pins causing them to drag along the rail like before. This is probably what caused the deterioration of the nylon rollers. I'm hoping it is not related to the sliding door motor. For some reason, this only happens when it's cold/winter.

In any case, I'll see how long this mod lasts. I might try the metallic rollers the next time. I'm hoping to avoid having to buy new roller assemblies altogether, before I trade in the vehicle.

Part numbers that I grabbed from Lowe's:

Hillman Nylon Spacers - P/N#880434
1/2x0.194x1/4

Hillman E-Clips H#881392 (?)
5/32"

 

Hi sleepy,

Glad it worked out for you.

FWIW, I replaced the entire brackets with new OEM ones (for various reasons) and although it's 100X better now, still occasionally in the cold the power door stops and reverses when it's about 6-8 inches away from closing. Only happens once in a while, so I'm not all that concerned about it. Just thought I'd let you know that the issue there is probably not with the rollers you replaced. I'm thinking it's either one of the other rollers (top or bottom) or possibly something is just in need of lubrication and the motor is tripping out due to "over current". That would make sense... as it gets colder the grease "somewhere" stiffens up making the motor work harder. Could also be just increased friction in the cables themselves that the motor attaches to.

Anyway, since it only happens when it's cold and quite infrequently, I'm not going to worry about it. Never happens in the summer.

Cheers!
D.

 

FYI.

Replaced my rollers also. 2001. In my case Lithium grease on the bottom roller, and metal track bottom of sliding door, made the door harder to close. Last foot or so.

Other posters mentioned, dealers used wheel bearing grease on the bottom track. I cleaned off the lithium grease, applied wheel bearing grease, Problem solved.

This may be why your door has problems closing. Try the fix. and post your results.