[lucio]

Replaced the roller assembly on both sides of my 2007 Odyssey this weekend. Each part was $35 at bernardiparts.com. Took about 45 mins per side. Cleaning out the old dirty grease thoroughly from the slide track took the most time.

Thanks for all the posts in this thread. Doors now operate almost like they were new.

did you mark the origial roller bracket postion on the door frame by using a marker pen?

is this a must or just to be safe? should be bolt it in? or just a quick photo snap will do.

 

[Hogan773]

If everyone is so worried about getting the bracket back on in the same position, can you just tap out the pin right there on the door and then re-insert your new piece without unbolting from the door?

 

[bargainboy]

did you mark the origial roller bracket postion on the door frame by using a marker pen?

is this a must or just to be safe? should be bolt it in? or just a quick photo snap will do.

I took a sharpie and marked the rear face of the bracket on the sliding door. The rear of the bracket has two small indentations which make it easy to line up with the marker line. With a floor jack holding up the rear of the door it is easy to micro adjust the position and ease reinstallation of the bracket with your marks.

The pin does come out fairly easily so you could try to leave the bracket on and punch it out as others have suggested here. I had zero problem removing/replacing the bracket, punching out the pin on my workbench, cleaning it up a bit and reinstalling the pin and clip.

 

[Autocrosser]

I think just found out why my last driver side lower roller lasted 6 months. I ordered 72521-SHJ-A21 (right) and 72561-SHJ-A21 (left) for my EX-L. I looked at the uninstalled right side roller that is still in the bag on a shelf in my garage and found it has a plastic middle roller and bears the part number 72521-SHJ-A01. That appears to be the right roller for an LX. I bet the EX-L uses a metal roller to deal with the additional load from the power door motor.

I hope the vendor does the right thing and sends me replacements.

The vendor sent me two replacements right away. Bernardi Parts gets a big thumbs up for taking care of the problem without any hassles. It took only a couple e-mails for them to take care of me.

Now for the bad news... When I installed the new driver side roller, I found that the driver side part I installed last fall had a metal center roller which is correct for an Odyssey with power sliding doors. The problem was that one of the little plastic side rollers broke which usually last several years. If I experience any more early failures of the Honda rollers, I'll probably go with Dorman.

 

[Hogan773]

The vendor sent me two replacements right away. Bernardi Parts gets a big thumbs up for taking care of the problem without any hassles. It took only a couple e-mails for them to take care of me.

Now for the bad news... When I installed the new driver side roller, I found that the driver side part I installed last fall had a metal center roller which is correct for an Odyssey with power sliding doors. The problem was that one of the little plastic side rollers broke which usually last several years. If I experience any more early failures of the Honda rollers, I'll probably go with Dorman.

1 year for the plastic rollers seems pretty bad. My OEM ones lasted 4 years on my 2010 and I just got the dealer to replace both sides for free. I'll be disappointed if the new ones don't last another 4 years at least (although frankly these should last the life of the car, not just 4 years, if Honda designed them right)

Not sure why the Dorman will be more robust, but maybe it's no worse so you might as well save the 10 or 15 bucks price difference next time.

 

[Sirens]

My thought on the alignment of the hinge -- instead of using a felt tip marker, particularly on dark painted cars, why not use liquid paper? It should scrape off of the paint once you are done, leaving no mark.

My other question - and I apologize in advance because I have not researched this -- what about the roller that follows the top track above the door? When I looked on my driver's side door tonight I noted that the top was a bit wobbly, and it appears to use the same plastic (nylon) roller as the center hinge/power door mechanism.

Thanks for this thread. I started my search on brakes tonight but thought "while I'm here, what about fixing those doors?"

Now I'm off to search for how to replace the cabin air filter, as I can't remember where the darn thing goes!

 

[DrD]

If everyone is so worried about getting the bracket back on in the same position, can you just tap out the pin right there on the door and then re-insert your new piece without unbolting from the door?

You could try, but it's in there pretty good (the end is knurled, so it bites into the bracket) - I didn't have any issues getting things back in place. I used masking tape on the door and bracket and put marks on that to line things up - worked like a charm, and you just pull it off when you are done.

 

[key01]

I ordered the Dorman part and it fits perfectly. My two upper rollers were completely gone and my door was still working on the shafts only! Pretty crazy.
I watched Steve's video and he did a great job. I only have a couple of suggestions. He seems to be working in a tight area with the door right on top of the roller. This is not necessary. Roll the door all of the way back and remove the roller, then carefully pull the handle on the door and push forward to provide plenty of clearance to work. I had plenty of slack in the cable with the roller at the far rear location to complete the swap with no issue at all. Use tape as noted above to mark the location of the bracket on the door or a fast dry model paint. Marking the bracket with a sharpie is not so easy to do and is difficult to see. Clean the area BEFORE marking.
This is a very easy DIY, and thanks to everyone's suggestions to make it easier for all.

 

[goose3]

Awesome thread and video. Wife's 07 EXL with 85k has a driver door that has to have this problem.

Will be ordering the part and likely fixing next week!

 

[Chinewalker]

Did the replacement on my driver's side door this weekend! Less than half an hour and less than $40.00 spent for the new roller assembly! Yeah, buddy!!!

 

[goose3]

Just did my wife's 07 driver door. What a great thread. Saved us a small fortune. I bought both sides and a new cabin filter and after using a 35 percent off coupon and free ship I spent $81 on all of it! I will do the pass side tomorrow nite!

 

[goose3]

Oh and both of her rollers were completely GONE!

 

[goose3]

Driver's side on left. Pass on right! 2 hrs or less total!

 

[kpfeif]

Hi.

I just replaced the driver's side roller assembly on our 2006 Odyssey EX-L this afternoon. My dad and I did it together...it took us about an hour. I bought the entire assembly from Bernardi Honda online. Everything went very smoothly.

We applied masking tape both the assembly and the door before removing the two bolts. We then drew multiple lines using pencil to show how everything was aligned before taking the bolts off. That seemed to work well.

Thanks, all, for your help and numerous write-ups of this process, including the great video:

I should note that one of the plastic rollers on the original part that we removed was completely gone - it must have broken off. About a week ago the door basically stopped rolling without constantly binding up, so it must have been when the roller broke/fell off.



- Kris

 

[Hogan773]

Hi.

I just replaced the driver's side roller assembly on our 2006 Odyssey EX-L this afternoon. My dad and I did it together...it took us about an hour. I bought the entire assembly from Bernardi Honda online. Everything went very smoothly.

We applied masking tape both the assembly and the door before removing the two bolts. We then drew multiple lines using pencil to show how everything was aligned before taking the bolts off. That seemed to work well.

Thanks, all, for your help and numerous write-ups of this process, including the great video:

I should note that one of the plastic rollers on the original part that we removed was completely gone - it must have broken off. About a week ago the door basically stopped rolling without constantly binding up, so it must have been when the roller broke/fell off.



- Kris

Yes that is exactly what happened with mine. It had intermittent drag and auto-reversing, but then one day it really just went crazy. When I looked inside I saw that one of the rollers was gone. Found half of a plastic roller in my driveway after looking around a bit.

 

[andrewsssa]

Worked for me, too

Wow, without all the helps on this post, I would have been lost... so helpful! Thumbs up to the OP, the video post, and ohfive! 's suggestions, in particular. My notes from doing it this afternoon:

a) order the right part. Had to make a second trip to the dealer after I got the lower male hinge assembly instead of the middle one. Then I got the driver side part, and I needed the passenger side part, but at least I realized that before leaving the dealership. Oops.

b) Amen to the masking tape. Also hadn't figured why it was needed, but after doing the job, I don't see how I could have done it without major scratches otherwise.

c) Unlike the video, I did not bother to unhook the lights from the back light cover; I just let it dangle.

d) For unhooking and hooking the cables to the roller part, I absolutely had to use my wife's help. I held the wire with a vice grip in one hand and the hinge piece in my other hand to give as much slack as I could while she took the cable off and put it on. I probably tried for 15 min by myself before I gave up and asked for her help. She ended up using a crotchet hook (not the hook part, just the narrow metal handle) to push the cable where it needed to go. Still wasn't easy, but doable.

e) I don't have a big, rolling pneumatic jack. It would have been nice, but I made do with the tire-changing jack that came in the car. It was a little more tipsy than I'd have liked, and at one point, the jack fell over and the door almost fell over (again, spousal assistance was key). But, it worked.

f) After I was done with everything, the door was great by hand, and if the initial opening under power was done by hand. However, the door could not open (or finish a close) -- it would beep and stop if done under power. I tried readjusting the connection between hinge and door. But even once I was convinced it was perfectly lined up with the marks I had made, it still had the same problem. I followed the reset procedure linked to by ohfive!, and this solved the problem; all now works perfectly!

 

[allenhull]

I replaced the rollers on my wife's 2005 Odyssey this weekend. I used brass spacers which are zinc platted that measured ID=.192" OD=1/2" H=3/16". The part number for the spacers is 90309A331. Here is the link -- McMaster-Carr.

The OEM rollers where still intact when I removed the roller assembly, but the rollers were showing some wear. The inside diameter of the roller was enlarged which made the roller not roll smoothly. I did have to use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the rollers in half to remove them. I also used the Dremel to removed the cut the metal ring which held the roller on.

After I removed the roller, I applied grease to the roller post and installed the brass roller and then secured it with a 5/32" e-clip (see picture below). I also cleaned the bottom track and re-greased it. The door opened and closed much easier and quieter after the installation.

Looks like the latest part number for this zinc-plated brass roller is 90309A038, screw size 10 (which translates to ID of .192 per the chart in their catalogue page).

Great thread guys n gals, will be maintaining the doors soon. One is popping and I hope this cures vs. replacing the actuator..... which doesn't appear too hard either if it comes to it.

 

[allenhull]

Looks like the latest part number for this zinc-plated brass roller is 90309A038, screw size 10 (which translates to ID of .192 per the chart in their catalogue page).

Great thread guys n gals, will be maintaining the doors soon. One is popping and I hope this cures vs. replacing the actuator..... which doesn't appear too hard either if it comes to it.

Note for Gen 3 owners. The shaft that these nylon rollers mount on does not have an e-clip or cut groove to receive the clip like the gen 2. Apparently, at the factory the soft nylon rollers are pressed over a metal lip/head on the shaft (eeehhhh where is this going? 8-( and these must be ground down to essentially shaft circumference to get the replacement zinc/brass rollers on. Then you have to cut a groove and get some e clips at hardware store and install into the grooves. I was able to do this with a dremel with cutoff wheel, but it was more metalworking than I really cared for on such a small piece, and a lot less precision than a factory piece would have. The door works fine now, but I'm skeptical about how long the clips will hold and how much rust will accumulate from the grinding. It's probably better to just buy the chunk with the new rollers on there.

 

[toolmanz]

Just replaced the center rollers on my 2006 LX.

I can confirm that it is very easy to replace the male part (with the rollers) without unbolting the female part (attached to the door) - at least on the LX.

Leaving the bolted part in place saves time, and you don't have to align anything when reassembling. You also don't need to tape anything (IMO)!

I'm not sure if it has been noted here, but the cover that sits over the track is easiest to remove with the sliding door nearly closed (stop the door closing all the way with a small object first).

With the cover removed, open the door fully so it latches in place. You won't want the door sliding while sitting on the jack.

I used the car jack with a soft rag to support the back of the door. When raising the jack, you want to lift the door very slightly to take the pressure off the rollers. Once this is done, you can feel the roller assembly "floating" in the track.

I then removed the clip at the top of the pin holding the male and female parts together. This was easy with a small flat-head screwdriver to pry the clip off. To remove the pin, I used the rod that connects to the jack to "extend" the pin to where I could safely hit it with a hammer. Hold the pointed end of the rod on the end of the pin with the rod as vertical as you can get it, and then hit the hooked part of the rod with the hammer. Once released, you can pull the pin down and out.

With the pin removed, I slid the rollers out the back of the track, where there was plenty of room and no worrying about scratching anything. You may need to pull the door very slightly away from the body so that the spring can fit over the bolts.

For an EX model, it may be possible to slide the rollers towards the back of the track, where it should be easier to remove the cables, but this depends on how far the cables can be manually extended.

The new rollers can then be inserted in reverse order, aligning male and female parts so that you can reinsert the pin from underneath. Tap the pin in using the rod and hammer, ensuring it goes all the way, then reattach the clip using some pliers.

Hope this helps!

 

[ejsmall]

Hey All, I replaced both side rollers last spring. Easy job thanks to this forum. Both doors have been smooth like new, but lately Im noticing that the driver door sometimes makes a nasty poping, crackling noise only when opening. Door operates smooth. Its like something going on with the cables. It only seems to happen when temps are higher, but will do it once then quiet a few minutes later. Any thoughts? Thanks!!