Hmm...checked and I think you are right; there's no vent tube I could find. Looks like the dipstick tube is also the vent. That would explain the burping.

Why not fill through the fill plug?

The engine should be off.

 

I use the dipstick tube. Just pour slowly and I use an extension rubber tube on the end of a long funnel. The tube fits tightly in the dipstick tube. When it burps it only burps into the funnel and no loss.

 

Just to update in case anyone refers to this thread due to the 3rd gear slam or bang during shifting issue. I started to first experience the issue a little over 2 years/13,000 miles ago, but it was a rare event and I had Honda update the PCM software and it smoothed it out like new. It ran perfectly fine up until a month ago, when I had a FedEx truck launch a potato-sized rock through my hood, grille, radiator and condenser. The van was repaired, I drove it a couple of days and it was fine, but by the 3rd day I had the banging happen again, and I got a blinking "D", check engine light, and I pulled a P0796 DTC. Shut it off and restarted it, and the blinking "D" was gone, and I was just down the road from my house so I drove it home and checked the fluid level (since the radiator had been replaced) and it needed between 1/2-3/4 quart of fluid and then it ran well for a good week or so, but then it did it again going into 3rd once more, so I decided to replace the 3rd clutch pressure switch yesterday, and it has been shifting fine so far. The DTC code has been cleared and hasn't returned since January 27th. What I did notice was that it seemed to do it on very cold days, and during the first drive of the day when cold, and usually a shut down and restart would correct it in the past. I attached some pics of the damage to the radiator with the rock still there.
Dashcam video of it here: Rock Launched From Fed Ex Truck - YouTube
Also, I used the video in this thread made by Mr Ranger to do the switch swap:
Transmission Oil Pressure Switch Replacement DIY 2011-2017 P0848 | Honda Odyssey Forum (odyclub.com)

 

That’s a big ole rock and lots of damage. Good fix!

 

The cost of damage came out to $4321. Just glad it didn’t come through windshield or hit a biker.

 

2014 EX-L, 90k miles ody - first time performed drain & fill of transmission oil over the weekend. Previous drain and fills were performed at dealer. Pretty straightforward - honestly easier than oil change and I didn't have to put it on ramp to access the drain bolt. I measured the drained transmission oil after let it drained for an hour and it came out to be exact 4 qts - I thought that's higher than most folks reported here (range I see 3.0 to 3.75 qt). I performed the drain on garage floor which is pretty level (and didn't use ramps or jack up van). Then I put 3.5 qts oil (Honda ATF DW1) using dip stick tube. I drove around a bit and tried to measure level using the transmission dip stick (for 2014 model - dipstick has L shaped handle and notch on the fitting that I needed to lineup). But for some reason level was not consistent between the reading. First issue is - both side of the dipstick appears to show different reading and side that has "HOT" marking is always shows lower reading than the other side. I performed 5 readings and they were off by half inch to an inch (just comparing dipstick side that has "HOT" marking - other side is always higher). First I thought - may be this because I filled using dipstick tube and fluid is covered inside wall of the tube and that's why I'm seeing this inaccurate results. I changed transmission oil Toyota and it wasn't this difficult to read level off the dipstick. I know I need to keep dipstick plate not in full bright light (and view it from side) as reflection won't allow you to read the level properly. But this Honda's dipstick really surprised me. I decided to wait until next day to read level (thought that any oil splattered in the tube wall will drain down) - but same issue persist. Seems like when I'm pulling the dipstick out, oil gets splattered on the tube wall and subsequent pull - I get oil at places that I wasn't expecting (some times I see continuous oil from bottom of the stick to first hole and some space and some more oil - so I know that's definitely coming from splattered oil from tube itself). I'm not sure why level on both side of dipstick are different and which one to consider - lower or higher?
Any way I proceeded to put rest of transmission oil as that's how much dealer put it (total 4 qts). Do you think dealer overfilled it and should I take out may be 1/2 qt? But without getting proper reading off the dipstick - I'm lost here..any help/tips appreciated..

Thanks

 

I changed transmission oil Toyota and it wasn't this difficult to read level off the dipstick.

You got lucky then! The Odyssey trans is just about the same difficulty as my Toyotas (well, the ones with auto transmissions...).

As was said, read the lower of the two sides. You can cheat a bit and use the help of a paper towel. Wrap the towel around the dipstick carefully, then unfold it while keeping the stick in the same location. The areas that are 'dark' with transmission fluid will be clear. The little 'whisps' that are confusing will not show up much on the towel. Like this:

-Charlie

 

Yeah it’s from the insertion/removal that one side will get wet more than other. Always use lower of two sides.


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That’s the oil dipstick. Talking about the transmission dipstick. It’s just a flat steel strip with some holes and minor text embossed.
Not sure the towel trick works on that.


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Not sure the towel trick works on that.

It absolutely does. I've been doing it on every dipstick I read for 15+ years. Including ones MUCH harder to read than the Odyssey trans dipstick... like my wife's old R56 Mini Cooper S

(oil from the upper 'bulb' drips down over the 'reading' area, the dipstick tube holds/pulls lots of oil up, the orange plastic is round so you can't reflect it off a light easily, etc.)

The flat metal ones are cake in comparison.

-Charlie

 

That mini dipstick looks like a royal PIA to read! Then again working on a mini in general is a PIA!


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That mini dipstick looks like a royal PIA to read! Then again working on a mini in general is a PIA!

You have no idea. My wife wants another one... And doesn't understand why I don't want to have to take care of it. There are a number of fun small Japanese vehicles to choose from out there... haha.

-Charlie

 

I get at the 17mm fill bolt using a long extension + shorter one. The first time breaking it loose was a challenge so I put anti-seize on the bolt threads and have taken it off 3-4 times since then and haven't noticed the transmission fluid mixing with the anti seize to contaminate it in any way. I wear a glove on my left hand and have the handle over the plastic intake cover and then pinch one of the skinny funnels before putting a second on top of it. Works great and fills quickly.

 

I finally purchased a breaker bar to open that bolt. No more dipstick filling in my future!

 

I just use the dip stick tube and pour slowly into the funnel to not burp it. I’ve done this countless times over the years. As long as your not rushing it’s an easy method.

 

Did this yesterday. No spill/burp at all.


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I had a shop replace my transmissions fluid in my 2011 Touring Elite almost a year ago. Just recently it started acting up some on shifting so on the advice of everyone here I did a fluid change. Only did a single change, the magnet looked good, but I drained almost 5 quarts of fluid out. I had only purchased a 4 quart jug so I put that in expecting to need to go get more. After a short test drive the dipstick looked full (I had the same problems as mentioned above about trying to read the correct levels.) Has anyone else ever had that much fluid drain when changing out their 6 speed? (sorry I didn't read all 17 pages of this post.) I did change it on ramps, but checked it when level after a short drive.

 

Has anyone else ever had that much fluid drain when changing out their 6 speed?

How long did you let it drain? As much as 4 quarts out of the 6-speed is possible if you wait a while. I have been getting about 3.8 out each time (leaving drain plug open while I rotate the tires, etc.).

Sounds like it was overfilled or you let it drain for hours...

-Charlie

 

Drain and fill #7 today after a little over 15,000 miles on the old fluid. Got out a bit over 3-1/2 quarts and refilled with the same, including a bottle of Lubegard Red as well. 107,377 miles on the odometer currently.

 

im going to try instead of drain and fill, using my shawben oil extractor from the dipstick to extract and then refill (probably through bolt hole up top) if it's easier. I already use it for oil changes on my car so might as well for tranny fluid changes

 

I don't think you will get as much out.
Just drain it......so easy.
Easier than an oil change.

 

Agree your not going to get the correct drain if you suction it. I also have a suction oil system but I’d never use it on this. I’m not convinced you can even get to the bottom of the sump using a flexible wand. As others have said remove the as designed drain plug and move on. It’s not that messy if concerned. Just lay out some cardboard if concerned for the floor from splashing.


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Anyone know the THREAD size of the top side FILL bolt on a 2015?

 

While I don't know the thread size of the bolt, what I can tell you is filling through the dipstick tube is very easy, and it's a wide opening too.

 

The first time I changed the ATF, it refluxed from the dipstick tube. Big mess. I did the 3x drain and fill.

I was contemplating a Fumoto valve with a cap to replace the FILL bolt. That would be so easy and clean to fill at the correct location with a tight-fitting tube and funnel.

 

The first time I changed the ATF, it refluxed from the dipstick tube. Big mess. I did the 3x drain and fill.

I was contemplating a Fumoto valve with a cap to replace the FILL bolt. That would be so easy and clean to fill at the correct location with a tight-fitting tube and funnel.

That's a very interesting idea. For the sake of the conversation, let's say there is a Fumoto valve that would fit (and there might be - I honestly have no idea). How quickly do you think the ATF would be able to flow through the Fumoto valve? My concern would be that if it's too slow then going through the dipstick is much simpler.

 

Drain and fill #8 today at 116,553 miles, along with an oil change since it’s been a year since the last one. Haven’t been using the van much these days but still keeping on top of maintenance.

 

 

Amsoil, Valvoline, Honda fluids...I am finding out it really doesn't matter what brand of ATF oil you use or the way you drain and refill the oil...what is most important is that you do this exchange at least 1X per year. I've met 3 people recently that told me they traded in their Ody due to transmission issue that dealer could not "fix". I've asked them if they changed the ATF oil, and they were like "why do I need to do that? Engine oil change is the only thing they did, never the ATF...per service advisor that it is not necessary to do this job on a regular interval." Well, we all know how important this is for the longevity of our vehicle. My 13 Ody now has close to 180K, and transmission is still going strong. I usually drain and fill in the spring time before hot summer heat, and has worked great. Good job folks and keep up the good work.

 

FYI, my ATF drain plug immediately after purchase with 22k miles…..I have seen nothing on the magnet since with about 10 changes.
DanaH

 

What fluid do you use?

 

Imo that picture shows typical wear and tear particles from a new transmission that has just been broken in.....you should not see that much accumulation in subsequent fluid changes after the break in period.

 

Agreed.......

Also if you do lots of highway there should usually be less particles compared to stop and go short trip driving.