3x drain and fills of the ATF, add some lubeguard red, muzzle the vcm.

 

Also, read up on the TSB's for your vehicle...

2017 Honda Odyssey Technical Service Bulletins

Here is what is required to be able to access the Honda/Acura links: 1. Open this Honda eStore link: HONDA Odyssey Accessories – Installation Instructions Download – presented by HONDA eStore 2. Open any Honda/Acura link Note: The Honda eStore link allows access to the Honda/Acura links for ~...

www.odyclub.com

Particularly TSB 17-043 and TSB 17-044

 

No Honda automatic is smooth. All are clunky feeling, just have to live with it. Still have to maintain it, change the ATF every 25k-30k miles.

 

Try driving a dodge caravan.........compared to those, our previous car, the odyssey trans is a cloud.

 

At 72,000 miles you should have had at least three transmission fluid changes. As suggested above, change it three times. If possible, get the Honda dealer to do it for free. Three fluid changes and a software update are part of a service bulletin. That has a warranty extension to 80,000 miles.

 

As per the above, you have some homework to do but it's not all that daunting. Check with local dealers and see if they'll cover the software update and fluid update in the Transmission asap. Next, read up and order a Muzzle to defeat the VCM/ECO Mode. Installing a Muzzle alone made our '16 EXL shift dramatically better; a lot less herky-jerky shifting action in the low gears.

We owned an '03 EXL, and yes, this transmission may have gained a gear; but it's a big step backwards in feel and drivability. However updating and maintaining the ATF Fluid and a Muzzle will help dramatically.

Welcome and good luck!

 

Are there 2017 honda odyssey owners who have or are experiencing
problems with the transmission ? Previously I owned a 2002 honda odyssey
that had a transmission recall. The dealer was told by honda to replace the
transmission and they did. There was a point when the transmission didnt
shift smoothly. I am noticing on our 2017 some thing isnt smooth as the
transmission shifts. The van has 72,000 miles on it. dkumpunen@aol.com

The best mechanic in our town that people can trust gave me a 20 oz
tube of lubeguard instant shudder fixx. I added this to the automatic
transmission and its shifting smoother. The ATF fluid was changed out
about 10,000 miles back or 62,000 miles. Honda bulletin 17-043 claims
the judder is caused by deteriated transmission fluid and they say the
transmission is not damaged by the judder.

 

The ATF fluid was changed out
about 10,000 miles back or 62,000 miles.

All of it? How? What exactly was done?

 

"The best mechanic in our town" cannot update the software. A necessary step. Just like regular fluid changes that all Honda automatics have required since being introduced in 1968. Many here have and do use Lubeguard. But that does not negate fluid changes.
The software update makes the trans into a whole different animal. Well worth it. Especially if you don't have to pay for it.

 

Yes I had to replace the transmission at 86k

 

What was the fluid change history? What year and model of Odyssey do you have? Was this done by a Honda dealer?

 

Changed regularly by Honda dealer. 2017 Odyssey

 

What were the symptoms before it was changed? Often enough, 'bang' shifting and similar issues can be fixed by replacing the correct pressure switch on the transmission (accessible from the outside). The dealer will sometimes (often?) suggest replacing the whole transmission instead of fixing a relatively small issue with it - hopefully that wasn't the case for you.

-Charlie

 

+1 on what were the symptoms or DTC errors/codes... my money is on the money made from replacing the thing vs. diagnosing and fixing.

 

We had to replace the transmission on our 2017 Odyssey at 103k miles. Never towed anything. I replaced the fluid myself every 30k miles and the dealer did a flush and fill at 90k miles. It would sometimes have issues shifting. It felt delayed, then it would clunk into gear. Initially, we just shut it off and waited a minute to restart, then it would be fine. When it started happening more often, I scheduled a service at the dealer which is 70 miles away. The morning I brought it to the dealer, the shifting became way worse. When going from a stop, it would hardly move until it finally got into gear. Lot's of big clunks. On the freeway it seemed fine then suddenly there was a huge clunk like I hit a massive pothole. Barely made it to the dealer. They said there was some metal in the fluid which I changed with 3x drain and fill 2 weeks earlier.

I think initially it was a control solenoid sticking. I also think the torque converter was having issues but it didn't throw the codes necessary for the dealer to get it covered under the warranty ext for that torque converter.

$6k later it's fine now. But I think I'll get a Toyota next time.

 

We had to replace the transmission on our 2017 Odyssey at 103k miles. Never towed anything. I replaced the fluid myself every 30k miles and the dealer did a flush and fill at 90k miles. It would sometimes have issues shifting. It felt delayed, then it would clunk into gear. Initially, we just shut it off and waited a minute to restart, then it would be fine. When it started happening more often, I scheduled a service at the dealer which is 70 miles away. The morning I brought it to the dealer, the shifting became way worse. When going from a stop, it would hardly move until it finally got into gear. Lot's of big clunks. On the freeway it seemed fine then suddenly there was a huge clunk like I hit a massive pothole. Barely made it to the dealer. They said there was some metal in the fluid which I changed with 3x drain and fill 2 weeks earlier.

I think initially it was a control solenoid sticking. I also think the torque converter was having issues but it didn't throw the codes necessary for the dealer to get it covered under the warranty ext for that torque converter.

$6k later it's fine now. But I think I'll get a Toyota next time.

That's not encouraging for my well maintained 2017 Odyssey. Did your problems start after the dealer "flush"? I believe you only want to do drain and fills.

I just spent quite a bit on alternator/VTEC spool valve, and valve cover gaskets...I have the timing belt on the horizon...and I'm hoping the white paint remains attached to the vehicle...was pretty confident in the tranny given our maintenance...

However ... Regarding Toyota ...

I have a 2022 Toyota Highlander V6 with the 8 spd auto. Way too many reports of complete transmission failures at low miles on 2019-2021 models. It seemed that 2022s were updated and not at risk...but have seen a few early failures of those as well discussed on the forums.

When my 1999 SAAB 9-3 auto tranny failed at 120k (only because the radiator leaked coolant into the trans fluid), it cost me $1100 out the door for the transmission, labor, and the tow because my awesome Indy at the time had a wrecked 9-3 out back with the same transmission.

The days of sub $2000 tranny replacements are over.

 

Knowing that this is all subjective...

The automatic transmission on our 2017 Odyssey is the smoothest automatic transmission I've ever driven. We also have a 2022 Toyota Highlander V6 with an 8 speed automatic.

When I bought it brand new, I planned to change the transmission every 30k miles on the Odyssey. I ended up changing it every 20-25k. We have 70k miles and the trans fluid was just changed for the 3rd time. (When I say changed, I just mean a 1x drain and fill.) Right before each change the transmission wasn't as smooth as when it's at its best, and it gets super smooth after the change...but I'd never say it was clunky.

The van is also muzzled.

 

To the Original Poster…
As previously posted, 3x drain and fills of the ATF, add some lubeguard red, if not already muzzle the vcm along with changing the plugs and software update - is the cure.

My 2014 had transm ‘judder’ in 1st and 2nd on occasion at 40k miles so I just ran a lot of DW-1 atf through it with the 3x drain&fill, then a month or two later a single drain&fill thenkeep doing frequent changes until the transm smooths out. Now I always do 1x D&F at each oil change. The theory I believe is that the DW-1 loses its viscosity quickly. Also add the Lubeguard red as directed on the bottle. I love the transm smooth shifting, now at 74k miles.

 

While I am a big advocate of regular trans fluid service on a Honda automatic (I do a normal drain & fill every other oil change or 15k) I cannot recommend the software update enough. It was developed to help keep the fluid from breaking down prematurely. It makes the trans hold gears better. The judder is because the trans will go back & forth between 2nd & 3rd rapidly because the computer cannot make up its mind. If you are accelerating briskly it doesn't do this. But accelerating slowly causes the hunt. Something else I noticed after getting the software is how much better the trans coasts. It also holds the gear slowing down. I used to find it very annoying how, when taking your foot off the gas, it would abruptly downshift. It does not do that anymore.

I was able, several years ago now, to get my dealer to do the software for free. I just paid for the single drain & fill it was due for. If you go in wanting the service bulletin, including the 3x fluid changes it will cost a lot. I suggest asking for just the software and a single fluid change. While regular fluid changes will keep the symptoms at bay, the software makes a big difference in drivability. Along with muzzling the VCM it's a downright pleasure.

 

The judder is because the trans will go back & forth between 2nd & 3rd rapidly because the computer cannot make up its mind. If you are accelerating briskly it doesn't do this. But accelerating slowly causes the hunt.

It isn't 2nd/3rd shift, it is attempting to lock the torque converter and giving up too early, then attempting again many times over. Otherwise, all the above is correct.

-Charlie