[Jconnway]

Do you have it ceramic coated? I forget if you had mentioned it and too lazy to look back. If you hadn't, I recommend you do. I did it myself and it is impressive how much of a difference it makes. I coated it after I took delivery and before any other trips.

I don’t! I’m very interested though. Maybe I’ll find a good local place.. would like to learn how to do it myself but I just don’t have time… every project seems to stretch over a month these days

 

[smufguy]

I don’t! I’m very interested though. Maybe I’ll find a good local place.. would like to learn how to do it myself but I just don’t have time… every project seems to stretch over a month these days

The pricing, around NY-NJ-PA area ranges from $1500 to over $3000. I just could not understand how to justify it and thus did it myself and it was just as easy as doing a waterless carwash or a spray on wax. Took me just about 4 hours to do it and my time is surely a lot less than $500/hr

 

[Jconnway]

1500!!? Ooph yeah I’m not paying that or over

 

[DJVAN]

@Jconnway
I would let you know right away, the ground clearance you have with the basket is rather low, it will scrape on a lot of driveways and entrances into any business, even some Gas Stations. If you have RailRoad Crossings that are raised and you went over them it might drag before going over and after crossing, drag on the tracks. I would probably use this type of adapter to raise the height of it. https://www.amazon.com/Toptow-Recei...ref=sr_1_100?crid=1HAQJIM6VDWYP&qid=1707787332&sprefix=auto+hitch+,aps,113&th=1

 

[Jconnway]

@Jconnway
I would let you know right away, the ground clearance you have with the basket is rather low, it will scrape on a lot of driveways and entrances into any business, even some Gas Stations. If you have RailRoad Crossings that are raised and you went over them it might drag before going over and after crossing, drag on the tracks. I would probably use this type of adapter to raise the height of it. https://www.amazon.com/Toptow-Recei...ref=sr_1_100?crid=1HAQJIM6VDWYP&qid=1707787332&sprefix=auto+hitch+,aps,113&th=1

I agree! I will get one of those adapters or something similar. I didn’t want to block the trunk but you’re right, I could definitely see this scraping at its current height

 

[MayorOfSexyTown]

Do you think you’ll do the chrome delete on the sides of the van or just the hatch area? I’m digging the color scheme.

 

[Jconnway]

Do you think you’ll do the chrome delete on the sides of the van or just the hatch area? I’m digging the color scheme.

Thanks! I plan to do the whole trim, sides included. The weather has been crappy and the van isn’t washed so I’m gonna wait for the spring I think.

I ordered a few mods from PRL today! A little air intake action to spice her up

 

[Jconnway]

Not really a mod but a little something while I wait for my PRL parts - saw this on FB. Genius really, and goes great with my white van - it was driving me nuts that the carpet was exposed there. Only ten bucks on Amazon, you can’t beat that!

 

[TRCollins]

Not really a mod but a little something while I wait for my PRL parts - saw this on FB. Genius really, and goes great with my white van - it was driving me nuts that the carpet was exposed there. Only ten bucks on Amazon, you can’t beat that!

View attachment 181585

View attachment 181586

Do you have a link for this item on Amazon?

 

[TRCollins]

Do you have a link for this item on Amazon?

Found it, thanks for sharing, better solution than what I had come up with scrap of carpet.
Amazon.com: Plasticolor 001221R01 'Honda' Utility Mat : Everything Else

 

[Jconnway]

Found it, thanks for sharing, better solution than what I had come up with scrap of carpet.
Amazon.com: Plasticolor 001221R01 'Honda' Utility Mat : Everything Else

That’s it! Sorry shoulda linked it to begin with

 

[Jconnway]

Alright next thing done! PRL stage 1 intake (which is a replacement silicone hose and a filter) and the PRL high volume air duct off the Ridgeline/Pilot.

A few comments:

1. If you’re mechanically inclined and done things like intakes before, this won’t be a hard job but there were a few frustrating parts.

2. To remove the stock clamps around all the intake pieces you’ll be replacing, you pretty much have to destroy the screws. Not sure if Honda put thread lock in there or what but my van just hit 1000 miles and trying to get them loose I woulda thought this was in a 100k engine bay.

3. The duct doesn’t fit perfectly. You really need to play with the coupler and the angle to get it to sit in the channel properly and even then it isn’t great.

Ultimately, I didn’t clip it down at all because the holes don’t line up and I see no reason to make new holes if I end up not liking this setup and going back to stock.

4. I removed the resonator, which is off to the side and under the battery, and capped off the intake with the provided plug. This move is what creates the induction noise.

5. After researching and accumulating some knowledge about these motors (and all motors really), what I’ve found is that manufacturers add resonator chambers and baffles into stock intakes to REDUCE noise. This is a minivan after all and I’m sure the consensus at Honda is that it should be as quiet and smooth as possible. Taking out that resonator and the factory duct with its baffles brings back all that glorious induction noise (if that’s what you’re into). To get this one out, there is 1 easily accessible 10mm bolt and 1 that you have to push in the fender liner to access. Don’t be scared, it’s very pliable and flexes plenty to get a socket in there.

6. The hood not closing properly prompted me to spend 45 minutes meticulously aligning the tube and I DID finally get it right. So it can be done.

I’ll take some nicer photos tomorrow because once again I lost the sun. I took a spin around the block and after everything feel this was worth it. No horsepower, no speed, lots of great induction noise and not a massive investment (everything cost me about 200 bucks shipped).

If nothing else, the drop in filter and the silicone intake tube to the throttle body look cool.

Thanks for reading!

 

[RadDadLife]

View attachment 181896
View attachment 181897
Alright next thing done! PRL stage 1 intake (which is a replacement silicone hose and a filter) and the PRL high volume air duct off the Ridgeline/Pilot.

A few comments:

1. If you’re mechanically inclined and done things like intakes before, this won’t be a hard job but there were a few frustrating parts.

2. To remove the stock clamps around all the intake pieces you’ll be replacing, you pretty much have to destroy the screws. Not sure if Honda put thread lock in there or what but my van just hit 1000 miles and trying to get them loose I woulda thought this was in a 100k engine bay.

3. The duct doesn’t fit perfectly. You really need to play with the coupler and the angle to get it to sit in the channel properly and even then it isn’t great.

Ultimately, I didn’t clip it down at all because the holes don’t line up and I see no reason to make new holes if I end up not liking this setup and going back to stock.

4. I removed the resonator, which is off to the side and under the battery, and capped off the intake with the provided plug. This move is what creates the induction noise. View attachment 181895
View attachment 181894

5. After researching and accumulating some knowledge about these motors (and all motors really), what I’ve found is that manufacturers add resonator chambers and baffles into stock intakes to REDUCE noise. This is a minivan after all and I’m sure the consensus at Honda is that it should be as quiet and smooth as possible. Taking out that resonator and the factory duct with its baffles brings back all that glorious induction noise (if that’s what you’re into). To get this one out, there is 1 easily accessible 10mm bolt and 1 that you have to push in the fender liner to access. Don’t be scared, it’s very pliable and flexes plenty to get a socket in there.

6. The hood not closing properly prompted me to spend 45 minutes meticulously aligning the tube and I DID finally get it right. So it can be done.

I’ll take some nicer photos tomorrow because once again I lost the sun. I took a spin around the block and after everything feel this was worth it. No horsepower, no speed, lots of great induction noise and not a massive investment (everything cost me about 200 bucks shipped).

If nothing else, the drop in filter and the silicone intake tube to the throttle body look cool.

Thanks for reading!

Love the CAI! Any idea if this would void any sort of 3/36 warranty? Also, past CAI’s I had required new engine tunes. Maybe it depends more on the end tent of the modification (previous experience was a GT350 intake on a 2015 Mustang GT).

Intake noise for the win!

 

[Jconnway]

Love the CAI! Any idea if this would void any sort of 3/36 warranty? Also, past CAI’s I had required new engine tunes. Maybe it depends more on the end tent of the modification (previous experience was a GT350 intake on a 2015 Mustang GT).

Intake noise for the win!

This isn’t a CAI, it’s just a drop in filter and a different intake duct than the factory. But it uses the stock air box… didn’t even need to touch the MAF, certainly nothing that would need a tune. I’d say this shouldn’t affect any warranty but, install at your own risk of course

 

[DJVAN]

It's to bad that PRL Motorsports didn't create a indent into the air intake tube to allow for the battery negative clamp access. I would have thought that the filter box to the throttle body silicone tube would allow a little better breathing, due to the fact the ribbed tube that was replaced would cause some air current eddy's as the air passes each rib.
Nice job, looks good enough for me.

 

[RadDadLife]

Ah, that makes sense!

 

[MarioX]

Do you have a link for this item on Amazon?

Guessing these are it:

[Amazon.com

Walmart link in case Amazon is out:

http://goto.walmart.com/c/404739/56...ticolor-Honda-Universal-Fit-Automotive-Utility-Mat-Vinyl-Black-1-Piece/55605161

 

[Jconnway]

It's to bad that PRL Motorsports didn't create a indent into the air intake tube to allow for the battery negative clamp access. I would have thought that the filter box to the throttle body silicone tube would allow a little better breathing, due to the fact the ribbed tube that was replaced would cause some air current eddy's as the air passes each rib.
Nice job, looks good enough for me.

you’re right about going from a ribbed to smooth tube but I don’t know if that’s enough to truly enhance the performance.

I bet if enough people start doing the duct, PRL will redesign it to fit. I would buy it again if it was specifically made to fit the odyssey for sure

 

[DJVAN]

@Jconnway
When I worked for the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), they had sent all environmental technicians down to a lot of classes in Oklahoma City that pertained to the type of equipment we maintained. In the Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning (HVAC) classes they discussed the different type of duct-work leaving furnaces or Air-Handlers. Large units for bigger buildings and multi-story building like a Air Traffic Control Tower (ATCT). They talked about area such as 90 square cornered ducts and offsets and plenum reductions on how they effected air flow and noises that it introduces into the building. (Air Traffic CAB) ATC needs to be quiet and exchange air flow roughly 10 to 1 exchange rate to eliminate human bodily smells or food smells as the controllers need not to be sniffing the air to occupy their time when controlling air traffic. Now what's this all to do with this silicone plenum hose? As in houses as well with it's duct-work be it metal duct-work of round insulated foil type. The metal flat surfaced duct-work produces a better air flow with the least disturbances to air flow rate. The ribbing in anything causes al lot of little air swirls which is multiplied after each rib, just like a ripple when you throw a rock into the water the ripples grow and ever expands. In what you were saying about performance, even the small amount of ribs are in the factory tubing will cause enough air problems to effect the air performance for mileage. We know that the auto manufacturers make change on some stupid areas such as losing the rain drip rail of the roof-line just to save gas mileage (what does .2 MILES PER GALLON MEAN TO US?) as well as battery charging only running at a percentage of time to save gas mileage or quantify the EPA which is a crock. their is a lot of vehicles that use just rubber hoses, they flex better and have less tendency to leak than the cheap to produce plastic ribbed tubing.

On the air snorkel to the air filter box, you said you got this and radiator top cover from a Pilot? What year? I might be interesedt in buying this and see if I can modify the air snorkel for the battery negative as well.

 

[Jconnway]

@Jconnway
When I worked for the Federal Aviation Administration (FAA), they had sent all environmental technicians down to a lot of classes in Oklahoma City that pertained to the type of equipment we maintained. In the Heating Ventilation Air Conditioning (HVAC) classes they discussed the different type of duct-work leaving furnaces or Air-Handlers. Large units for bigger buildings and multi-story building like a Air Traffic Control Tower (ATCT). They talked about area such as 90 square cornered ducts and offsets and plenum reductions on how they effected air flow and noises that it introduces into the building. (Air Traffic CAB) ATC needs to be quiet and exchange air flow roughly 10 to 1 exchange rate to eliminate human bodily smells or food smells as the controllers need not to be sniffing the air to occupy their time when controlling air traffic. Now what's this all to do with this silicone plenum hose? As in houses as well with it's duct-work be it metal duct-work of round insulated foil type. The metal flat surfaced duct-work produces a better air flow with the least disturbances to air flow rate. The ribbing in anything causes al lot of little air swirls which is multiplied after each rib, just like a ripple when you throw a rock into the water the ripples grow and ever expands. In what you were saying about performance, even the small amount of ribs are in the factory tubing will cause enough air problems to effect the air performance for mileage. We know that the auto manufacturers make change on some stupid areas such as losing the rain drip rail of the roof-line just to save gas mileage (what does .2 MILES PER GALLON MEAN TO US?) as well as battery charging only running at a percentage of time to save gas mileage or quantify the EPA which is a crock. their is a lot of vehicles that use just rubber hoses, they flex better and have less tendency to leak than the cheap to produce plastic ribbed tubing.

On the air snorkel to the air filter box, you said you got this and radiator top cover from a Pilot? What year? I might be interesedt in buying this and see if I can modify the air snorkel for the battery negative as well.

As happy as I was to read that, what I was thinking was that the gain from ribbed to smooth on that 8 inch section of tubing is probably so minor, it’s more likely that the woosh noise and the “I did a mod” feeling is gonna make you feel like the van picked up some pep more than actuality. But what you’re saying makes a lot of sense and I totally agree that the manufacturers do everything they can for mpg, ect.

this is the Odyssey specific intake kit I bought 2018+ Honda Odyssey 3.5L Stage 1 Intake System

and this is the intake duct, as you see on the intake page it is linked in the “frequently bought together” area

2016+ Honda Pilot 3.5L High Volume Intake Air Duct

Increase engine performance and efficiency with the #1 selling, best performing intake system upgrade for the 2nd Gen Ridgeline J35. Fits the 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023. Drop-In

prlmotorsports.com

It’s a good time to buy, they’re cheaper than when I got them!

also it’s the factory radiator cover, and you don’t need to be concerned so much about the terminal, it’s more the battery tie down post that gets in the way.