Sliding door rear latch

 

Sliding door latch agreed. I tried cleaning mine like some have done successfully but it didn't work. I just bought a new one. Cheapest place I found is partsgeek

 

Thank you very much for your help. Is it difficult to put on if someone is halfway mechanically inclined?

 

No it's actually easy if you watch videos first

 

On a side note, WD-40 is not a lubricant. You can consider it a cleaner and protectant but it is a poor lubricant. For the actual lubrication use the recommended product.

 

Agreed. I'd use lithium grease myself

 

Oh nice. Cheaper than when I bought it

 

I have an appointment for my mechanic on Tuesday to replace the rear latch. My vision isnt good enough for close up detail.
In the meantime, I though t would try to clean the sensors. I have been Googling where to find the sensors and no luck. Everything but. Does anybody know where I find the sensors? Please and thank you.

 

Not sure what sensors you are referring to.
The parasitic battery drain with the rear latch is caused by faulty micro switches in the latch. Some people have had success cleaning these microswitches. Some people have soldered in new microswitches. Most bite the bullet and buy a new latch.

 

Yes I’m going to have the mechanic install a new rear latch next week. I thought I had read somewhere on here about cleaning sensors with an eraser and I didn’t know what the location of those are.
I’ve read so much online I can’t remember where I saw it and I’m on information overload that’s why I came here to Simplify and I appreciate your help

 

Yeah my old motor issue included a parasitic drain so I just bought a new one. Now the passenger side is acting up so not sure what I should do because it's not mine anymore. I gave it to parents in law who's only income is disability. I just bought and put on $600-800 (lost track) worth of parts to help them. I'll probably bite it and help them

 

The motor itself doesn't cause the drain. It's the sliding door control module that is the drain. When the switches don't work properly it keeps the module powered up as the module doesn't know where the door is. If the module doesn't know where the door is, I guess it keeps on looking and stays powered up. In my opinion, it's a programming error in the logic on the board. It probably should have been programmed to time out after a period of time. The 7.5A fuse doesn't drive the motor, as it's nowhere near big enough. The motors are powered by a 30 or 40A fuse.

 

That makes sense John. So it's an indirect drain. Still caused by the faulty switches (latch assembly) - downstream impact

 

Correct. If I could ever get one in my garage that has the issue I'd love to get in there with an amp clamp and measure the current draw right at the module. This theory of mine is based solely on the very common symptoms and what people have done to repair them. The module is the only possibility for the drain caused by these failed door latches.

 

I'd bring mine over again John but my wife would probably yell due to covid risk ( this is Scott in Matthews you've helped me before)

 

Ah. But why did you create a new username?

 

I couldn't get into my old one and the forgot password went to my old email I couldn't access anymore

 

So yesterday, I got some lubricating spray for $6.50 at the automotive store. I sprayed it on the back latch as well as the front mechanism. Nothing happened. Later, I sprayed it again and lifted the doorhandle several times. Nothing happened. When I got home, and I went over to push the door shut to lock the car, It was already shut and not pushed out. I went out to the car this morning to drive off to work and the door was still closed. Rather than spend $400 to replace the rear latch, I’m going to avoid using that door since I live alone and see how long that lasts.

 

Spraying the latch isn't going to help. You can try removing one screw at a time and spraying in the holes and see if that helps. If you just leave it be, you will likely have a dead battery if you leave the car for a couple days as often this failure causes a parasitic battery drain when the key is off.

 

John is exactly right. Been there done that. It's easy enough to remove, clean and regrease in an attempt to repair

 

Ditto. The issue is with the 4 internal micro switches, not the mechanical latch.

 

Actually, the issue can be either. The mechanical latch can get stuck and not activate the switch(es) and/or the latch can work but the switch can be faulty. I've seen both reported on the forum here. The end result can be the same.

 

Looks like I happen to have failing microswitch issue as my door does close correctly, but SOMETIMES, the door warning beep will come up even when nobody drove the car and last time I parked, I confirmed that sound did not come. (and nobody used that door).

So, sometimes, it can sit on the driveway for a week without any issues and sometimes, I would walk out and in about 3 days the battery would be drawn (all the while nobody used that door). I feel like just disabling the power door (to keep the warning beep off) but just install solar trickle charging system to ward off battery drain for about $50 and be done as I don't think the draw is very high.

I do remember seeing a website and part # for the switch as "drop in replacement". (does it have to be soldered on? or is it mechanically fastened?)

What is the part # and or link to the switch? Thank you.

 

Just put in a new latch. You don't know if you have a failing switch or a stuck latch mechanism.

 

There was a thread here recently about replacing the microswitches. They do have to be soldered in (two wires). I think there are 4 switches in each latch module.

The exact switch you need can be ordered from Digi-Key. It is a Panasonic switch, P/N 255-6457-ND. It might also be listed with this number: ABJ362860.

ABJ362860 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey

Order today, ships today. ABJ362860 – Switch SPST-NC Chassis Mount from Panasonic Electric Works. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.

www.digikey.com

If you can afford it, I recommend you spend the $200 and replace the entire latch. Buy it from Bernardi or Majestic, for a good discount.

 

I think only 1 switch is NC switch and others are all NO switch, correct?

Also, if I do decide to replace the whole latch, then is: 72610-SHJ-A22
the one for passenger side? (when they say "R" side, is it right side when I sit in the driver's seat or is it right side if you are looking at the car from the front?)
I see that Majestic is selling for around $220 and Bernardi is $270 or so.

 

Also, see post #9 here:

05 is mocking me with power door and ac issues.

My sliding door light has illuminated 3 times this week and now my ac compressor is not engaging. After resetting the doors by pulling fuse 12 I have tried the power doors with success BUT it seems like the passenger side has a noticable delay opening after I pull the handle. Is there any sort...

www.odyclub.com

 

I'm not sure about NO vs NC switches.
Left and Right is based on sitting in the driver's seat facing forward. So left would be driver's side (in the United States) and right would be passenger side.

Majestic often has lower prices than Bernardi, but Bernardi offers free shipping and Majestic does not; so you need to factor that in.

 

I'm not sure about NO vs NC switches.
Left and Right is based on siting in the driver's seat facing forward. So left would be driver's side (in the United States) and right would be passenger side.

Majestic often has lower prices than Bernardi, but Bernardi offers free shipping and Majestic does not; so you need to factor that in.

Thanks.

The "Position" switch which is most often the apparent problem is NC switch (Normally closed) meaning if not pressed in, it will be "ON" other 3 switches appear to be "NO" switch which is "Normally Open" switches meaning if not pressed in, it will be off. (like ordinary switch).

I did order the NC switch from Digikey for $10 (including shipping). I figure, if it fixes the issue, then great, it will be $10 and some of my time If it does not, then it is only $10 wasted and couple of hours of my time which is "practice" for replacing the new part.

Actually, I think I should order couple of NO switches as well just in case there are other NO switches which are also bad and maybe I can just switch them out in that case while I have the part out.

 

This thread might be helpful as well:

2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L Slide Door Troubleshooting

I have a 2006 with 250k, Never had door issues. Started getting stuck and showed a dash light, I did the reset by pulling fuse #7. Worked fine for a few weeks. Only had to do it once before. Now when it stops working I get the dash light and do the reset by pulling the fuse it will work fine for...

www.odyclub.com

 

Actually, it’s been a week now and haven’t had any issues with the door closing since I lubricated the latch.

 

Thank you all for putting up all this good info. I am a 76 y/o parapeligic. I've had my 03 Oddy 7 years now. To adapt it for camping, I permanently installed a false floor (platform) the entire van. My battery goes flat every few days. I guess the power sliding door on the left side has a microswitch in the rear latch stuck. Because of the false floor, the only possible way for me to get into the rear latch would be to take the door off the van. I'm not doing that.
The power being drained from my battery is going somewhere doing something (heat). In this thread #15, John Clark says "sliding door control module that is the drain". I guess the stuck switch tells the control module the door is open when its actually closed. The only link between the switch and control module is through the sprung contacts on the door jam. Please tell me which of those eleven contacts on the door jam to disconnect to stop my battery from going dead. Thanks, chris

 

Thank you all for putting up all this good info. I am a 76 y/o parapeligic. I've had my 03 Oddy 7 years now. To adapt it for camping, I permanently installed a false floor (platform) the entire van. My battery goes flat every few days. I guess the power sliding door on the left side has a microswitch in the rear latch stuck. Because of the false floor, the only possible way for me to get into the rear latch would be to take the door off the van. I'm not doing that.
The power being drained from my battery is going somewhere doing something (heat). In this thread #15, John Clark says "sliding door control module that is the drain". I guess the stuck switch tells the control module the door is open when its actually closed. The only link between the switch and control module is through the sprung contacts on the door jam. Please tell me which of those eleven contacts on the door jam to disconnect to stop my battery from going dead. Thanks, chris

Your 03 Ody doesn't have the same power sliding door system as the 05-10 model Odys. Your battery drain is most likely something else that needs to be diagnosed.

 

Putnam alligator clamp solar charger on it to keep it charged better

 

No, the 11 contacts are not there. The newer ones use an articulating harness.

I've never heard of a battery drain cause by the sliding doors on any other model besides the 05-10. I would NOT assume you have a sliding door latch causing your battery drain.

Have a parasitic draw test done to determine IF you have a draw and then, if so, find out what circuit is causing it.

I would recommend against replacing the latch on this model without some direct evidence pointing to it.