Mine are always 35F & 35R.

 

I believe it's the weight distribution 55% front 45% rear makes tires look that way. I put in nitrogen at Costco, 35 or 36 for F and R. Good thing about nitrogen is the pressure variation between cold and hot is minimal.

 

You realize Nitrogen in tires is a complete ripoff, right? Free air is 78% nitrogen already.
It’s used in Aircraft for its resistance to heat, and lessened explosive risk on failure. That’s the only reason. In passenger tires, it’s moot.

 

42psi all around.
My tires have a lot of edge wear from excessive camber in the back from worn springs, and too much toe in after new control arms in the front (i've fixed that). I'm trying to get some more life out of the middle by over inflating...and maybe get some better gas mileage too

 

I run 39-40 all the time on my '07. I get 75-80K miles out of my tires.

 

That's a lot of miles. What make and model are the tires you use?

 

I'm at 39-40 PSI as well on my 05. Get about the same 75-80k on the tires and average 19-21 mpg with city driving, 267k miles on the van.

I always go with a little under of what is on the tire on all my vehicles instead of what is on the door sticker. I get better tire life and better gas mileage with them all. Makes me think the car, tire and gas manufacturers are in cahoots.

 

If you open your driver's door, someplace on the 'B' pillar will be a placard with recommended tire pressures. Also, look in your owner's manual.

Someplace on the sidewall of your tire, will be max cold pressure your tires can hold, maybe 44 psi.

Bottom line is that unless your racing, towing, or overloading your van, use what Honda recommends.

 

Bottom line is that unless your racing, towing, or overloading your van, use what Honda recommends.

Bro, I'm always racing. #racevan4life

 

You guys all ride on the tiny stock 16" wheels haha so running 40 PSI won't be much a problem.

Try riding around 40+ PSI in 18"+ wheels.

 

Is there a difference in the recommendation by Honda based on trim or are they the same?

I have an '07 Touring so the placard is based on the PAX tires 33 Front / 35 Rear. I replaced PAX with 16" wheels and 235/65 R16 tires less than 1 year ago so it would seem I should use what is recommended for the other trims, what is that?

I've been using 34 Front / 35 Rear but not sure if that is what is recommended.

 

From my 06 owners manual, they are not the same. I remember either 33F and 35R, or 35 all around. Mine is EX-L and it is 35 all around. I believe 33F/35R is on LX.

All my cars stick to manufacturer recommended, but add about 2 PSI in case of loss between whenever I like to check them.

 

Thanks, I'll use 35 all around now since the EX-L is closer to the Touring in features and weight.

 

36 PSI on all 4 tires. seems to wear well at that setting for me.

 

Now I am reading my US 2006 owners manual.
LX and EX has 33F/35R.
EX-L and Canadian Touring got 35F/35R.
U.S. Touring model got 33F/35R

So there is a tire pressure difference between US and Canadian Touring?

 

It's likely because the US Touring came standard from 2005 - 07 with Michelin PAX run flat wheels and tires while the Canadian Touring did not and came with conventional wheels and tires.

 

Here's the thing with the sticker on the b pillar. Those pressures listed give you maximum rubber contact while still being fuel efficient. BUT that is with the same make and model of tire. Once you change brands, or even different generation for the same brand and model, those figures can go out the window as tires are not made exactly the same. Just because they are the same size of tire with the same weight and pressure ratings, does not mean they will be the same, that all depends on cord material, how many plies and how they are oriented, as well as rubber composition all play a major part in how much air should be used.

 

OK, so if the numbers on the B pillar are no longer valid, how does one determine the proper pressure for the replacement tires?

Assuming you are correct (and I'm not saying you aren't) you've done a fine job of explaining the problem, but you haven't offered a solution.

Is there a constantly updated list someplace that contains the proper pressure for maximum rubber and fuel efficiency cross referencing every single tire available with every single vehicle they can be used on? If not, does everyone not rolling on OE tires have the wrong pressure in their tires because there is no way to know the correct pressure for their specific combination? Unless they just happen to have guessed correctly, that is.

 

Here is your definitive number - it's 36 psi all around. Note, you inflation will change from summer to winter, and some tires will normally leak more, thru the carcass, that others.

Believe me or not.

 

There are too many variables to set any definitive pressure. Road conditions vary, tire sidewall stiffness vary, people riding comfort varies, and especially road surfaces. What is best for you is just that. Best for your area, tires, and preference.

OK, so if the numbers on the B pillar are no longer valid, how does one determine the proper pressure for the replacement tires?

Assuming you are correct (and I'm not saying you aren't) you've done a fine job of explaining the problem, but you haven't offered a solution.

Is there a constantly updated list someplace that contains the proper pressure for maximum rubber and fuel efficiency cross referencing every single tire available with every single vehicle they can be used on? If not, does everyone not rolling on OE tires have the wrong pressure in their tires because there is no way to know the correct pressure for their specific combination? Unless they just happen to have guessed correctly, that is.

First, ask the tire rep if your new tire manufacturer has a recommended pressure for your vehicle. Some will. Some won't but you can at least start there. Finding a data base with every conceivable variable to tire wear and gas mileage for your vehicle with every option is just not feasible. There are just too many variables at play. And next year there'll be a new tire model out and all that data will be worthless again.

Once you change from OEM tires you no longer have the manufacturers testing data to rely upon. That doesn't mean that your tires will explode if you're 2 psi off "optimum" pressures. You can do your own testing by recording cold pressures before you drive highway speeds and then hot pressure after you drive highway speeds. If you see your pressures are more than 5 psi apart (32 start / 39 end) that's a good indicator that your tire pressures are too LOW on cold as you have too much contact patch (i.e more friction) with the road.

The 5 psi differential is just my estimate. I don't know of any definitive pressure differential but you don't want them being too far apart. And do your testing in the summer. Not the winter.

 

This string must end or my head will explode.

 

It can't end just yet. I really want to hear NFortin1966's answer. I am intrigued.

 

Could not have said it better BlackWillow. You would still be safe using the pressures listed on the B Pillar, they just may not be optimal.

 

I should clarify to test your pressure differential with pump air and not nitrogen.

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

No worries...[emoji4]

While I don't have time to read that link just yet I do agree with 1 and 2. The Ford bronco fiasco years ago is a good example of why you have to be very careful running lower tire pressures for the sake of comfort.

Don't give the insurance companies any ideas. They already have too many excuses for denying claims. [emoji39]

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

I use a combination of inputs to figure my pressure. I don't have OEM tires on so after I get the new set of tires, I start with the B pillar, which on mine I think is 33 all around. I drive and check out the handling. If it's good then I'll go up a little at a time because on all my sets of tires I wear the outside edges much more then middle of the tread. I'll go up a couple of pounds, check handling and ride, then go up a little more, check handling and ride and contact with the pavement. Of course, I don't go near the limit on the tire, but I try to find that happy medium between even tire wear and good handling. I think right now I'm only at 38.

 

Never go by what is printed on the door jam. When you replace your tires, it is important to stick with the tire pressures on the tire. The tires on the front, with the same pressure in them, will bulge a little because of the weight of the engine. If you 600 lbs. of weight in the back of the van, those tires will bulge a little too. I put about 32 lbs. in my tires when cold, and as soon as I start driving they heat up and the pressure rises to about 35 lbs. You will need to experiment with that based on the weather in your area and the temperature outside. Just keep in mind that 35 lbs. of pressure is good for comfort, and it is easier on the suspension and tires.

 

Never go by what is printed on the door jam.

That is not 100% true. If there is a differential between front and rear, you need to maintain that differential to ensure safe handling. Whatever PSI you choose to use, you should still "go by" the differential printed on the sticker.

When you replace your tires, it is important to stick with the tire pressures on the tire.

What does that mean? As far as I know, the only pressure listed on the tire is the maximum PSI. Since I'm pretty sure that you are not recommending that we all fill our tires to the maximum, please explain what you mean by "stick with the tire pressures on the tire".

 

Costco nitrogen is free. One Costco says it's free to anyone regardless of membership or not. I used to drive 250 miles, 90% highway. With nitrogen I noticed the pressure increase from beginning to end is about 2 psi. With free air it could go up by 5-6 psi.

 

Manufacturers set those pressures so that the car rides the way they want during your test drive off the dealer lot. At 33 and 35 these vans will wear the outside and inside edges of tires. I've found that by running them at 38-39 psi (cold) that the tires last a LOT longer. The ride is just a little stiffer but my wife doesn't even notice.

The one mistake most people make, though, is driving the car to a gas station and then setting the pressure on the B pillar label. By the time you drive to the gas station the tires are warm and if you set to the pressure on the label you're already a pound or two low. Those are COLD pressures. If you have driven the car then you need to add a few pounds to that pressure.

 

Manufacturers set those pressures so that the car rides the way they want during your test drive off the dealer lot. At 33 and 35 these vans will wear the outside and inside edges of tires. I've found that by running them at 38-39 psi (cold) that the tires last a LOT longer. The ride is just a little stiffer but my wife doesn't even notice.

The one mistake most people make, though, is driving the car to a gas station and then setting the pressure on the B pillar label. By the time you drive to the gas station the tires are warm and if you set to the pressure on the label you're already a pound or two low. Those are COLD pressures. If you have driven the car then you need to add a few pounds to that pressure.

Wouldn't that depend on both how far the gas station is from the starting location and the ambient temperature?

A 2 block drive at 5°F isn't going to heat up the tires that much...unless maybe you spin the tires at the start and do a 15' skid just before you hit the pump.

Besides, what exactly is "cold pressure"? The pressure at 0°F and snow up to the top lug or the pressure on an unshaded blacktop driveway at 105°F?

My point is that just about everyone (including me) says things like "Check the pressure when the tires are cold" without defining "cold". That "38-39 psi (cold)" setting is only 38-39 psi at whatever your definition of "cold" was when you filled them.

If we are going to compensate for the fact that the pressure has changed by "a pound or two" from being driven to the gas station, then we certainly can't ignore the same amount of change in "cold pressure" due to the ambient temperature in our driveway. In reality, we should all be using a Variations table like the one found below when setting/checking the "cold pressure".

Cold inflation pressure - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

 

Reserved for someday when I wise up!

 

Here's why you don't run the max pressure and why too much pressure can be more dangerous. Hydroplaning.

The speed at which a tire will hydroplane is 9 times the square root of the tire pressure. So...

If you set your tires at 33psi then your hydroplane speed will be 52mph.

If you set your tires to 39 psi then your hydroplane speed will be 59mph.

So, even adding the few pounds that I add I've increased my hydroplane speed by 7 mph. So, while I'd like to go a bit higher for tire wear, I don't go anything above 39 psi and try to stay around 38 max. When my tires get hot, the pressures indicate around 42psi on the TPMS indicator in the gauge cluster so my hydroplane speed is up there.

Ummm... Am I missing something? You want to hydroplane at lower speeds?

 

If it's really just two blocks then that's one thing. If it's a couple miles down the road then you'd be surprised how warm the tires can get.

 

No words of wisdom on the ambient temperature discussion?

The comment about distance was a minor point since most of us don't live only two blocks from a gas station. However, the vast majority of us deal with changes in ambient temperatures that could easily change our pressures more than a couple of miles drive to a gas station. Heck, that could happen in a single day without ever leaving the driveway.

I'm sure that there are millions of car owners that religiously follow the generic "Check your pressure while the tires are cold" rule. The question is: How many us factor in the fact that it was 25°F when we checked them before the ski trip and 95°F before the trip to the beach?

 

The "cold" requirement obviously means those are minimum pressures. I run what wears my tires evenly, being careful of not going to high and raising my hydroplane speed too high.

 

Well, it was pointed out to me the error of my post.

There is a correlation between tire pressure and hydroplane speed but I just stated it backwards. Higher pressure means a higher hydroplane speed which is actually a good thing so the higher the pressure the better, but as you stated, only to a degree.