D light started blinking a couple of weeks ago. Got it into the shop (specialize in Hondas) and they replaced the pressure switch (attached the invoice). When I picked it up, it was still blinking. The shop said that it could either be the transmission valve body or my transmission is just going out. The cost for the body is $1100 and it could still not fix the issue because the transmission may be shot. Has anyone had this happen and it be the body? They did say that the fluid looked fine and the only issue I’m having is occasional delayed shifting in 2nd. Any advice would be appreciated.
Meganraek
Blinking D light- Pressure switch not the problem
D light started blinking a couple of weeks ago. Got it into the shop (specialize in Hondas) and they replaced the pressure switch (attached the invoice). When I picked it up, it was still blinking. The shop said that it could either be the transmission valve body or my transmission is just going out. The cost for the body is $1100 and it could still not fix the issue because the transmission may be shot. Has anyone had this happen and it be the body? They did say that the fluid looked fine and the only issue I’m having is occasional delayed shifting in 2nd. Any advice would be appreciated.
Attachments
You didn't write the specific year and model, so I'm going to assume it's 6 gear transmission which is what I have.
Do you know which pressure switch the shop changed? If you mean "Shifting 2nd" to 1st gear going 2nd gear the 'obvious' switch would be the one at the bottom (2nd clutch).
But in my personal experience, I still had the hard shifting 1st gear going 2nd gear after changing 2nd clutch.
I read that having bad 3rd clutch can also cause 'slamming' 1st gear to 2nd gear so I changed 3rd clutch (under the car battery) and that solved the problem.
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So double check with the shop which switch he changed; and if he only changed 1, see if changing the other one would help.
If both switches were changed, then I would try changing the transmission fluid 3 times even the shop guy says "it looks fine." Or even transmission filter if you haven't done so.
The last resort would be bring the car to the dealer for Software Update if you haven't done it.
They will charge you 'diagnose fee' for it but still worth it.
Do you know which pressure switch the shop changed? If you mean "Shifting 2nd" to 1st gear going 2nd gear the 'obvious' switch would be the one at the bottom (2nd clutch).
But in my personal experience, I still had the hard shifting 1st gear going 2nd gear after changing 2nd clutch.
I read that having bad 3rd clutch can also cause 'slamming' 1st gear to 2nd gear so I changed 3rd clutch (under the car battery) and that solved the problem.
So double check with the shop which switch he changed; and if he only changed 1, see if changing the other one would help.
If both switches were changed, then I would try changing the transmission fluid 3 times even the shop guy says "it looks fine." Or even transmission filter if you haven't done so.
The last resort would be bring the car to the dealer for Software Update if you haven't done it.
They will charge you 'diagnose fee' for it but still worth it.
Pages 1179-1183 has the troubleshooting procedure for this code.
www.odyclub.com
Free 4th Gen Service Manual
So don’t email me anymore.... I’m just gonna post it on from my Google Drive Odyclub - Google Drive I don't post on here a lot... but if some of you do your own wrenching, and also owned a 2nd Gen Odyssey, you may remember me as the guy that was offering an online copy of the 2nd Gen service...
www.odyclub.com
The procedure says if no metal is in the fluid, then change it.
start with the low cost options first, 3x drain and fills with maxlife and put some lubeguard in there.
drive it for a few miles or days between each change.
if the fluid was sorely neglected, I would certainly use maxlife because it has more detergents.
start with the low cost options first, 3x drain and fills with maxlife and put some lubeguard in there.
drive it for a few miles or days between each change.
if the fluid was sorely neglected, I would certainly use maxlife because it has more detergents.
There is a software update that goes along with the 3x transmission fluid drain and fills that may smooth out your delayed shifting, which unfortunately needs to be done at a dealership:
A17-043.PDF
A17-043.PDF
The line pressure solenoid valve A is a possible failure point for this specific code. You can ohm out the terminal side of the solenoid on the transmission’s secondary valve body to ensure it’s within spec (13.8-17.1 ohms). If it’s out of spec, then you’d need to replace the entire secondary valve body. All of this is outlined in the troubleshooting within the service manual.
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