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Broken power door roller

10K views 15 replies 6 participants last post by  cebrew  
#1 ·
After searching, it looks like several people have had issues with broken rollers on their sliding doors, but I have not come across any posts by owners who were able to fix it on their own (I did see one post regarding fixing rollers on a manual door).

Has anyone tackled this project on a power door?
For those who had it fixed by the dealer, how much did it cost?

As background, we have an '02 EX. For about a week the driver's side door has been making a grinding/grating noice as it slides open. It opens and closes, but doesn't sound happy doing it. When trying to see what the problem was, I saw that a bracket is sliding against and scraping off the paint in the groove where the door slides open, so we've stopped using that side. It appears that similar problems have been diagnosed as broken rollers.

Thanks in advance.
 
#2 ·
I am having a similar problem, right down to the paint! Am searching for the instructions on how to fix it on the manual door, but no luck so far. Do you happen to remember where it was? My brother-in-law runs a mechanic shop, and I would like to see if it would be enough to help him fix it for me.
 
#4 ·
Thanks! I will ask my B-I-L (who is our mechanic) about it. I really just need to know how big a pain in the rump it would be for him to get a manual (from me;) ) and fix it vs. the cost of taking it to a dealership. I saw that the manual doors aren't that expensive, but I didn't see anywhere in my searches how much someone paid for the POWER door repair.
 
#5 ·
Timbuk20022 said:
Has anyone tackled this project on a power door?
For those who had it fixed by the dealer, how much did it cost?

As background, we have an '02 EX. For about a week the driver's side door has been making a grinding/grating noice as it slides open. It opens and closes, but doesn't sound happy doing it. When trying to see what the problem was, I saw that a bracket is sliding against and scraping off the paint in the groove where the door slides open, so we've stopped using that side. It appears that similar problems have been diagnosed as broken rollers.

Thanks in advance.
And does anybody know which roller this would be? Mine is doing the exact same thing, but worse-it sticks open and I have to help it close by leaning on it.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Add me to the bad roller club. Last year on vacation my driver's side slider started doing the same thing you guys are describing. I could have lived with the noise, but the scraping off of the paint that last inch and a half of the path had to be fixed. I had it repaired at the dealer when I got home. As I recall, it was somewhere in the $180 range. (Silly me, I bought the extended warranty to cover such issues, but I was informed that this was considered a body part and thus it was not covered.) Now almost a year later, my other slider is acting up. They now want $210 to replace the center roller assembly. The part is $75. I am debating doing it my self, but have not had the time to take off a few parts and see how much trouble it would be. I, also, do not have the manual, which sure would come in handy for something like this.
 
#7 ·
Odandee -

Your door not closing all the way may not be the roller assembly. After the dealer fixed my drivers side door, it would only close correctly half the time. I would have to give it a little help with my thumb by pressing in on the back of the door when it was being pulled in. This went on for almost a year (I did take it back once to have it looked at, but suprise they found no problem). It finally got to the point where it stopped working completely and the sliding door light came on. They replaced the latch motor (can't remember the exact name), under warranty. So I guess I'm saying you may want to let the dealer have a look at it to see if what is causing your problem is covered under warranty, if you are still under warranty.
 
#8 · (Edited)
Thanks, I was afraid something else might be going on since most of the "symptoms" were lining up, but not all:( . We aren't under warranty as my husband didn't want to buy it this time (don't know why, it paid for itself a couple of times over with my Accord Wagon) and we purchased from an individual, but I am looking into buying one (not Honda, one my credit union offers-it covered bad door lock motors, even) before the year is out, because our extended warranty on the trans. expires early next year, and I want to get the warranty before the van turns another year older. I am taking the van for its 45000 maintenance Wed., and My B-I-L is going to go over the stuff I have printed out here. I am really hoping that it is just the roller and that the connection point thingamabobs (that you clean with the pencil eraser?) are just dirty, like I found when I went to check the door that works. It also needs cleaned and lubricated around the rollers, but my husband or B-I-L will have to do that, since, as you can tell, I am not mechanically inclined ;) :D Thanks for you help!

Oh, and is the motor for the electric doors, or is it on manual doors too? Just wondering that if it went out, I could just turn off the power door to use it, or is it essential to the door shutting correctly?
 
#9 ·
Oh, and is the motor for the electric doors, or is it on manual doors too?
I'm not quite sure what you are asking here. There is no motor on the manual doors because they are manual.

I believe the owners manual says something about turning off the switch on the dash and using the power sliders manually. As I recall, it seemed like they didn't encourage you do that but were giving you a stop gap procedure until you could get it fixed. (Of course it could be that it doesn't cause any problems, but they are trying to steer you into the dealership to get it fixed.) I used mine a handful of times manually before I could get it repaired. It does not slide easily when in that mode, but I did not have any trouble with it not latching properly.
 
#10 · (Edited)
whatever it is that makes it lock properly (the thing that makes the whirling, clunking, locking noise when it has just shut?) I guess I am asking if the "locking motor/latch motor" is just on the electric doors or do all the manual doors have it too? I guess I am asking if it is safe to use (and drive around with) a broken latch motor if I switch the doors to manual? Will the locks engage properly?

I called around yesterday and the cheapest I found for replacing a center roller was $135 for labor and about $78 for the part, excluding taxes and "fees" (will be checking about the "fees") and the second was $235 for labor, and the third-hold on, here it comes-between $400-$500! The cheapest price is at the dealership where my keys were the most expensive, but okay
':confused: . I will get a written quote when I take it in. My van goes to my B-I-L tonight to get the maintenance work done tomorrow at his shop, and I am going to ask him to take a peek and tell me if the rollers are busted, and if it is one or both, etc. I know the bottom one is fine, but they all need cleaned and greased (badly:rolleyes: ) and the contacts are dirty (I cleaned the good doors contacts last night, but didn't have any wheelbearing grease to do the rollers).

I printed out ALOT of stuff yesterday and went through it again. This forum is wonderful!:D

PS-found a thread where someone else's center roller was broken, and it wouldn't shut all the way by itself either(exactly the same thing as when we started this with this problem, so I am feeling a little better about that;)
 
#11 ·
cebrew said:
(Silly me, I bought the extended warranty to cover such issues, but I was informed that this was considered a body part and thus it was not covered.)
Who informed you of this and did they check with Honda Care? If that's what you have, Honda Care, check your Honda Care manual and read carefully the exclusions to what is not covered on the body. Some body parts are covered. I'm not sure about this one. Check.
 
#12 ·
Yes, I have Honda (doesn't) Care. I had a lengthy discussion with several people in the service department at the dealership that said it wasn't covered. They would put the part # in their magic computer and it would come back as not covered. I was trying to argue this was not a body part, such as a quarter panel that I could accidently put a dent in, but a cheap part that Honda put in my van that broke during normal use. They wouldn't budge and I had to pay.
 
#13 ·
I think there are a few people here who got Honda to pay for it (one may have mentioned the BBB). I would do a search and look around. I'm sorry I can't remember where it was.:rolleyes:
 
#14 ·
Add me to the broken roller club. This happened on my driver's side power door on my 2002 EX. I was quoted $255 installed to replace the roller. Add $50 for a new panel where the paint was scraped off, not including what it would cost to pain the panel to the proper color.

I have Honda Care extended warranty. I'm in the process of pulling the written warranty to find out if it is covered - but based on what I am hearing here, I'm not encouraged.....
 
#15 ·
Several people here have gotten them to pay for it- a lot seems to matter on the people you end up talking to. It's worth a shot!;)
 
#16 ·
I think it also depends on your relationship with your dealer. If you take your car there for all your maintenance and repairs, they are probably more inclined to cover something like this. My dealer never sees my van unless it needs some warranty work. So my chances of them going above and beyond for me were slim. But it never hurts to ask.