I don't think you're going to be able to just replace the cable. Your cheapest option is to cut the cables away and disconnect power going to the motor. The door will operate smoothly and easily as a manual sliding door. I just did this to a friend's van yesterday.

Alternatively, I've got a driver's side motor I'd sell you for $50 plus shipping. It's sitting in my garage.

 

I tried opening the door, but it is being held back by another cable I see on the inside part of the door. Is this a seperate cable,or part of the same cable that broke on the outside?
So basically I need to replace the motor?
Also how do I disconnect just the drivers side power?

 

There is one motor. Two cables go into this one motor. One cable pulls the door open, the other cable pulls it shut. Look up this part on the internet, you'll understand better. The motor is located inside the panel near your 3rd row seat, near the wheel well.

You don't need to replace the motor if you don't mind opening/closing it manually.

You have to remove the plastic panel to get at the motor to disconnect all the electrical connections. There may be an easier way to disconnect, but I'm not sure.

Go to ebay and search "Odyssey sliding door motor" & you'll see a picture.

 

Thanks

So basically I can cut the other cable thats still intact since the whole motor needs to be replaced anyway? This is what is preventing me from opening the door.

 

That's what I did yesterday. I was going to replace the motor, but we decided to leave it as a manual. Now I have this extra door motor. ($50)

You can leave the power hooked up to the door, but the motor will try to run and you'll get a few beeps when you pull far enough on the door handle.

 

Well, I took apart the van yesterday and got the motor out. It was pretty straightfoward once you get the interior panels off and out of the way.
I see the rear cable got chewed up within the motor. The front cable is fine.
I am sure if I take this motor apart, and go to a bicycle store and get an almost identical cable made up, it will work. But for now, its a manual door, and at least we can get in and out.
Aaron, I will keep you in mind for that motor you have. Is it a new motor or used?

 

This is the pic of the motor with the cover plate removed. It turns out both cables were damaged, so I cut them out.
I went to Home Depot this morning to try and find a simliar coated cable. The closest they had was a 1/16" coated in green, but it seemed flimsy, it did not seem as stiff as the original cable. But I don't see why it should not work.
Probably the most difficult part is finding a way to crimp both ferrules on each end, but I'm sure if I go to a bike shop they can do it.

 

The motor is used. List price at dealers for new is $685. The cables look good. I pull on one, and the other retracts smoothly. If you hook mine up and it doesn't work, I don't keep your $50.

What are you going to do about the sealed pulleys on each end or isn't this a problem? Let us know if you're able to replace the cables. Thx.

 

The motor is used. List price at dealers for new is $685. The cables look good. I pull on one, and the other retracts smoothly. If you hook mine up and it doesn't work, I don't keep your $50.

Aaron, I just sent you a PM.

 

It looks as if you have to feed the cable through the pulley first, then install the ferrules.Otherwise the cable will not fit through the pulley with the ferrule on. This looks to be the biggest problem. So far I have only seen the end ferrules that mount longways, not sideways like the Odyssey cables.

I went to the bike store today, but they had nothing that looked similiar.
I'm pretty sure the cable I saw from HD will work. I just have to figure out a way to put ends on, or rig up something similiar.

I measured each cable.The rear measures almost 6'10". The front cable measures 5 feet.

 

Any more info on fab'ing up a replacement cable? I'm in the same boat, the rear cable broke on my passenger slider. I really don't want to spend the $500 for a new motor or even the $250 for a used one...

 

Hi there,

Looking at the picture posted above, you might mod the nylon "receptacle" on the wheel with a Dremel to fit what ever shape ferrule available. As an example, you can simply cut a groove 90 degree across the original groove and use a metal rod such as a section of a nail to hold down the cable end.

Hope this helps,
Bruce

 

I saw some 1/16" ferrules this morning at HD that looked bigger than the stock ones. Big enough that you can grind it down to the same size & shape as the original with a Dremel tool or similiar. They also had the swagging tool to crimp them for like $19 ( which could probably be returned once its used.)
The only issue I could think of is that does the motor and sensor need to be "synched" since I took out the pulley. I'll guess I'll find out. As long as I put back the exact length of cable, attach both cables it to the door first, then wind the rest around the pulley and take out the slack, it should work.

 

Well so far I purchased the 1/16" coated cable , ferrules, and some metal spacers.
I cut the exact length for the front and back cables ( 6'9" for the rear, 5'1" for the front). I routed the cables through the outer pulleys and wound them around the center pulley. I used the ferrules at the ends and trimmed some off with a pliers so they can seat inside the pulley flush. This takes care of the motor.
For the outside part I did not crimp anything yet until I get the motor mounted. I purchased some spacers that will fit the door bracket with the cable crimped on. (This is the part that looks like a bike cable) I will post some pics when I start to put everything back.

 

Well, after some trial and error, my sliding door is working again. Had to make a few modifications, but it works now. I am going to make a write up, and plus hopefully post a video to Youtube.

 

sizzlemp, please do share the knowledge, currently my 2003 EXL is in for service and was debating just bitting the bullet and letting them fix the door as well.

 

Just finished the write up. Here you go.

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/24-19...dyssey/154039-diy-fix-sliding-door-cable-using-parts-under-10-a.html#post718883

 

My cable had to be cut for the door to close on my sliding door. Does this mean I'd have to replace the motor as well or just the cable?

 

No, just the cable.

In all likelyhood, if one cable breaks, its going to affect the operation of the door to a point that you have no choice but to cut the other cable

 

When you screw the lug onto the cable should you you strip off the plastic first?

I did and the cable pulled out of the lug after a few openings. I'm thinking I should leave the plastic on and/or use a ferrule also.

 

I stripped the plastic and never had problems.

 

OK I tried a 2nd time (2 trips to HD to buy cable,...). Each time I was able to open and close the door 2-3 times before the cable breaks at the screw lug. Not sure why, the cable breaks but I gave up and removed all cables, disconnected the 3 connectors from the motor e.g.just use it as a manual door, works fine.

One issue is the sliding door dash lamp is on all the time. Anyone know a way to turn this off?

 

What needs to be done to disconnect the door to make it manual. Where are the 3 connectors located. Thanks for any help.

 

Check out youtube for video of an odyssey cable replacement. He gave some great suggestions for working with the cable attachments point using electrical lugs from HD. Gave me the uuumpfh I needed to try it and for under 10 bucks.

 

 

My right door was jammed, couldn't open it, but could lock it. Left door worked manually. My off brand shop fixed the left electrical problem, and probably got dealer parts for the right. I needed my 2006 with 140 k for a trip, the job both doors was $1300 + tax. I didn't price Honda.

 

I have a 1997 Plymouth voyager handicap minivan. passenger side slider door cable broke. I figured either try find someone who can replace cable. or leave it manual.

 

Your cheapest option is to cut the cables away and disconnect power going to the motor. The door will operate smoothly and easily as a manual sliding door.

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