Mine looks exactly like yours, well mine are worse as it’s a 2000.
I’ll probably just order the FX 8043 and either take the 2 Kits to a muffler shop or a welder.
I can weld, but this may be to thin to weld on for my liking..
Your part number may be different as this is for a 1999-2004

 

availability - out of stock... Hm...
Update: I'll "hand" check for exhaust leak tomorrow. it's dark now.

 

EBay has 40 of them.
Search FX8043
Just not sure if you have the same pipe diameter.

 

oh.. ebay...I'll check it later. Thanks.

 

Rather than feeling for the leak by hand, try using the soapy water trick. Get some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray it on any suspect points. It will bubble where there is a leak.

 

yes, I was thinking about thick soapy solution.

 

the flange gasket always burns off once the flange gets sketchy like that.

Have done some quick fixes in my time, new donut and bolts and good for another year or two.

The universal flanges can help pull things together but its always best to pay a muffler shop to fix it right for a couple hundred bux by welding a piece in.

 

I had an exhaust leak in the same area, and had a muffler shop weld in a new piece for pretty cheap. This is a permanent solution.

 

Update:
didn't find a leak with soapy water. Will have to remove pipe with cat anyway and inspect. I still suspect that gap between flanges.

 

Let me know what you ended up doing, I know for sure my front cat flange gasket is leaking

 

I just went through this myself. Exhaust was leaking at the gasket because the nuts had rusted away. Used a grinder to grind the nuts off and a few good wacks with the hammer got the converter off. Then used a punch and hammered the studs out of the catalytic converter. Got new gaskets and just got some grade 8 bolts and nuts that fit in the holes. Did have to grind at the flange so the head of the bolts would sit flush against the flange.

 

Did have to grind at the flange so the head of the bolts would sit flush against the flange.

I’ll have to crawl under again to see if I have a flange left.
Mine is 24 years old next month.

 

Check out this thread. Post #15 shows my complete stainless steel replacement for the original exhaust. Pick and choose parts needed to fix your exhaust.
I just put one of these Northeastern exhaust systems on our Camry. Pretty good quality. But like the Ody one, it needed a bit of modification to fit properly

 

Check out this thread. Post #15 shows my complete stainless steel replacement for the original exhaust.

Post 15 is mine, did you forget to include the link to another post?

 

Update:
Finally, I had time to inspect the flange joint between the catalytic and pipe.
Looks like the flanges are warped (at top).
Video: Exhaust leak
Instead of welding, I'm thinking about cutting off all rusted studs and nuts, trying to clean flanges' mating surfaces and installing two 3-bolt split flanges (with s/s nuts/bolts). Probably 2 1/2" dia. as depicted below:

I know that this flange will rust... oh, well.
If I wont be able to remove pressed-in studs (on cat's flange), I'll grind them flush.
As of s/s hardware, I'll use 316 s/s bolts/nuts/washers. I hope that this 316 s/s will be strong. Another option is to use Bumax s/s (strong as a steel counterparts, but expensive - $4-5 apiece).

Thoughts. I don't know how soft the exhaust flange steel is. Is it possible that the upper parts of the flanges were bent when I raised the engine to fix head gasket? Raised by about 2".

 

another update/thoughts:
I'm looking at the parts - the gasket that goes between flanges in question is thin round one (number 1):

I started to doubt that mating surfaces will be perfect (rather in acceptable shape).
As of now, I can't remove the J-shaped pipe with cat (called converter part #1) because of extremely hard-to-reach one bolt of 2-bolt flange (beginning of pipe).
One way to deal with it, and it's not my favorite way and it's still too tight to get to one bolt, is to cut spring-loaded bolts.
...
Edit:
after some search, some sources show gasket to be like this:

Hondapartsnow, shows a thin one, RA - a triangular-shaped... (years 2010-2011). go figure!

 

That split flange looks interesting. Hopefully it will work. I have cut my own exhaust gaskets when I have no other choice. In the video below they show cutting the material with tin snips. A cutoff wheel on an angle grinder also works. To make the bolt holes the the hole punch works the best. I would have this material on hand when doing the work in case the Honda o-ring gasket looks like it won't seal. Or you end up using 2 split flanges.
Why do you say (and show a pic of) a J-pipe? Is your Ody a 4 cylinder? My Ody has a Y pipe for the V6.

https://knowhow.napaonline.com/how-to-make-custom-exhaust-gaskets-for-your-special-project/

 

split flange works, but you're better off getting a new one welded on.

the muffler shops have them, they cut the old weld the new, bolt up like factory and no shenanigans.

 

update: (finally).
I inspected the rest of the exhaust - the other flexible (donut) joint between pipe with resonator (#8 on diagram above) and a muffler (or should I say "silencer" with an britt accent?) (#15) rusted and was free-handing, rubbing a half-axle.
That loose connection would put extra pressure on cat./pipe joint and helped to bend the flanges.
condition after some prep work:

on the picture below (cat. flange view) I goofed and cut-off too much of flange "ear" exposing gasket's groove. Oh, well....:

The picture below shows a rear flex joint. Note that hook rusted and came off from it's proper place on the pipe. I already fixed this joint, but with cheap flange a few years ago... 3 or 4.... Note rubbing on half-axle. BTW, that axle is also 3-4 years old.... I think it was designer to collect the rust. Left pipe is with the resonator, right - with the muffler.

Painted flanges and hardware....:

This is how cat/pipe joint looks like. I know it's a rather temporary measure and I will have to replace the whole exhaust "system" later, in better future. 3/8x16 2" long bolts are barely enough... better to use 2 1/4" (stainless steel).

I don't know how long it will last....2-3 year is enough for me....
Result - exhaust works fine: no noise.

BTW, I couldn't get to one nut on front flex joint (in front of O2 sensor - that with green wire), therefore, I had to fix the way I did.

Lesson - measure before cutting.... don't eyeball it.
That was for 4-cyl CR-V.

 

Nice work... that will outlast the rest of the rear exhaust pipe...

 

This was my "plan A", I always knew, that, if I'll screw up, I can use "plan Z" - replacing the exhaust system.
A therapy through mechanics. A mechanical therapy?