You have to get a scantool and read the coolant temps and use the VCMuzzler accordingly.

 

don't regret getting the foxwell NT510 elite scanner on your suggestion.
love the extra insight it gives into all the vans systems over a 10 buck bluetooth obdii scanner.

I do wish there was a way to hack the foxwell for multi vehicle.

but I digress...

 

If you unplugged the coolant temp sensor within a few hours of turning the van on/off, that's where your trouble codes came from. The ECU continues to monitor coolant temps for a while after the van is turned off, and unplugging sensors will set a code if it is done too close to engine shutdown.

Reset the codes/ecu and see if they return - they probably won't.

-Charlie

 

I have a 2014 Odyssey LX with about 64,500 miles on it. I purchased the muzzler on 9, 2019. I had the brown resistor installed about a month after I got the muzzler because ECO light would turn. I liked that it drove smooth. On April 30th, the Check Engine Light came on while driving. On May 1st I moved the Odyssey a few feet forward and turned it off. I foolishly took out the muzzler, thinking it would turn the CEL light off. I then went to Autozone and the codes that came up were P0128, P0118, and U0029. Does the Muzzler have something to do with that? If so, what can I do? If not, what else could it be? Should I take it to dealer/ mechanic? Should I keep driving it? How can I tell offhand if engine is overheating? Without the muzzler, and no scanner available, could the CEL light eventually turn off or do I need the scanner?
I drove about 20 miles (with muzzler) and about 30 miles (without muzzler) after the CEL light came on and I did not notice any strain or struggle at all. The temperature gauge acted normal as far as I could tell and was right in the middle without the muzzler. My biggest fear is the engine overheating and being damaged but I don’t know what symptoms/ signs that would indicate that. Autozone recommends replacing Thermostat and/ or the ECT sensor. I messaged Verbatim already. I would like to know if any of you experienced this as well and how it turned out.

What muzzler were you using?
I have the VCMuzzlerII and use the blue resistor.
No issue.

 

I now understand what you were asking on the other GEN 3 thread.

It appears that the resistor value you are using for your Muzzler is too high so the ECM interprets that the car is not warming up enough (coolant temperature is too low). At least the P0128 code indicates the coolant temperature is below the thermostat regulating temperature and probably triggered the CEL to begin with.

The P0118 code was likely triggered when disconnecting your Muzzler (In the VCMTUNER II manual it has you wait 15-30 minutes without the key in the ignition before disconnecting any of the wiring to avoid triggering this code when installing it).

I'd put in a lower value resistor in your Muzzler and clear the codes (have AutoZone do it if you don't have a scan tool). That will likely resolve the CEL. If the ECO light comes on pretty frequently with the lower resistance you may want to consider VCMTUNER II or S-VCM where there are no resistors to change and have the added benefit of being alerted right away should you get an overheating condition.

By the way you should really consider a scan tool. I have a Bluetooth one I paid under $20 for and use a free App on my phone called Torque Lite and the combination has been very useful. Besides being able to read and reset codes, I can get information such as the coolant temperature (or at least the coolant temperature as interpreted by the ECM when a muzzler is installed).

 

I can't add much to what BertS said. Follow his advice there and you should be good. P0118 is from unplugging the ECT sensor too soon after shutting off the engine. The computer continues to monitor the coolant temp for 15-20 minutes after turning off the key. If you unplug, you'll set the P0118. P0128 is usually a code that indicates a stuck open thermostat but if you're using a Muzzler it usually means your resistance is too high. Always start with the blue resistor on the VCMuzzler. Remember, the VCMuzzler will not eliminate the ECO light 100% of the time. It's normal to see it during stop and go driving. Get the VCMTunerII if you want to never see the ECO light again. As long as the ECO light is out most of the time you're just fine. Activating a few times once in a while won't hurt anything.

 

You can use the OBDII portion of the NT510 on any OBDII car.

You can buy other vehicle manufacturers for something like $60 each, up to 5, I think.