Its normal for the ECO light not to come on if the CEL is on. To prevent damage to the engine the ECO mode will not turn on. Did you plug in a scanner to find out what the code is? Let me know.

Otto

 

The scanner says the code is a P0301 cylinder 1 misfire. Does this mean I have to change the spark plug in cylinder one? Which one is that one?

 

Could be a number of things such as plug, coilpack, valve adjustment but this needs proper diagnosis to be sure.

what year is your van? do a search on here, there are a bunch of very informative threads on a misfire code on cylinders 1-4. its a known issue and Honda has extended the warranty for 8 years/unlimited miles to fix it. basically it is because of the VCM system. it allows oil to foul the plugs, creating a cylinder misfire. the dealer will first reprogram the computer. the 2nd step, if the code comes back, is to replace the piston rings on cylinders 1-3 & the plugs on 1-4. cylinder 1 is on the passenger side of the car, in back of the engine(firewall side).

Could also be plugs worn or coil packs done which i'm seeing more of, not always oil burning issue.

I'm having the same problem. The codes that popped were, P0134 and P2251. I have replaces the O2 sensor and the engine light turned off and the ECO light started working again... After a few minutes (literally) the engine light came back on and the ECO quit working..... What gives??

Engine light off, ECO Mode and then engine light back on means the original problem was not resolved.
Which sensor did you use

 

what year is your van? do a search on here, there are a bunch of very informative threads on a misfire code on cylinders 1-4. its a known issue and Honda has extended the warranty for 8 years/unlimited miles to fix it. basically it is because of the VCM system. it allows oil to foul the plugs, creating a cylinder misfire. the dealer will first reprogram the computer. the 2nd step, if the code comes back, is to replace the piston rings on cylinders 1-3 & the plugs on 1-4. cylinder 1 is on the passenger side of the car, in back of the engine(firewall side).

 

I'm having the same problem. The codes that popped were, P0134 and P2251. I have replaces the O2 sensor and the engine light turned off and the ECO light started working again... After a few minutes (literally) the engine light came back on and the ECO quit working..... What gives??

 

What code is it throwing now? If you get that combination, the service manual has you address P2251 first before P0134, the solution of the former potentially involving updating the software in the PCM. Did you just replace the O2 sensor, or did you go through the whole diagnosis procedure (very difficult for a DIYer since it involves the HDS, which I don't think any of us have... ) - if the same codes are coming up, check the connection to the sensor (demate and remate the connector) then check the A/F sensor relay and make sure the connections are good there as well.

You really need to pull the code and see what the van thinks is wrong...

 

@ Smartbag,

What model year and trim package is your Ody? If it is a EX-L or higher, it is equipped with Variable Cylinder Management system which may cause excessive oil consumption leading to spark plug fouling and subsequent misfire codes which turns on the Check Engine Light.

See all the ugly details at following thread. http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-2005-2010-odyssey/152534-vcm-long-term-reliability.html

 

So still all oxygen sensor codes -
P0134 is rear A/F sensor (bank 1, sensor 1) heater system malfunction
P0155 is front A/F sensor (bank 2, sensor 1) heater circuit malfunction
P2631 is front A/F sensor (bank 2, sensor 1) label circuit high voltage

So you are showing codes for 2 sensors, one of which you just replaced - I would check the harness at both sensors, as well as further back to see if it was pinched/damaged and if so, fix any broken wires. Another thing to check would be the A/F sensor relay (its in the top row in the drivers side under dash fuse/relay box) and make sure it is connected well and the terminals are in good shape, and that it flips properly when given power to the switching terminals.

 

Thank you for your response! I get off of work in a couple of hours and I'll check the fuse at that point. The wires will have to wait until after the weekend. I'll keep you posted. Thanks again!

 

I'm completely stumped... the Relay's are good, all wires appear intact... I guess that I'm going to have to pony up the $$$ and take the van in.... Sigh... Thanks again for all of your suggestions! I greatly appreciate it!

 

I got the same codes as the OP. The guys at Autozone suggested I put in a fuel system cleaner (Seafoam) and it worked. I only got the misfire one more time, put the cleaner in and haven't seen the CEL since.

 

Hello Everyone,

I got the same problem, CEL is on and ECON light is not working, recently i just change the engine oil which i suppose to change earlier, now i used AMZ OIL which will last longer than regular oils like MOBIL 1, etc,
after the change of oil i got CEL on and gas consumption meter was continuously fluctuating, after two days gas consumption meter got stable. To remove the light CEL i just disconnected the ground wire from the battery and after 2 mins connected again. CEL is gone now.
Today after 2 days again CEL is on and no ECON light is there. please everyone any suggestions?

 

I got HONDA CRV 2015 EX

 

What viscosity of oil did you use?
I’m not familiar with AMZ oil. Is that Amsoil?
I doubt that it will last longer than any other full synthetic oil. That should not be your goal. It’s important to change your oil on a regular basis, such as every 5,000 miles. Most full synthetic oils are good for 10,000 miles but that does not mean you should go that long.

 

so the oil viscosity is 0W20 and yes its AMS OIL

 

BTW. This is the wrong forum for your vehicle.

 

Is there any club/forum for HONDA CRV?

 

Same issue however no codes come up. Was told possible obd2 fuse or wire?

 

Welcome to this forum.
First off, it’s a good thing that the ECO light does not come on. That light indicates activation of the Variable Cylinder Management (VCM) which has been shown to cause all sorts of issues including piston ring damage, excessive oil burning. And misfires.
Many of us purposefully disable VCM by buying and installing a VCM muzzler device.

I recommend you read the first post of the stickied mega thread at the top of this forum.

in your case, the ECO light is not coming on because of an engine fault code. You will need to figure out what the issue is and get that fixed.
But please do consider disabling the VCM feature because it is not good when the ECO light comes on.
Lastly , don’t confuse ECO mode with ECON mode. Two different things.
Hope this helps a little.

 

I had same thing with my 2015 Ody. Freaked out and my mind spiraled into anticipating huge costs. Got a code read and luckily for me, was only a P145C - so starting with getting a new gas cap ($16) - and FIXED. No CEL and ECO light operates normally as it did. I was ok with NOT seeing the ECO anymore but I knew it had to be 'dealt with' at some point. Lol

 

As mentioned in the VCM Mega-thread, your ECO light will not turn on if there is a CEL. Were you talking about the ECO light or the gas cap to be "dealt with"? You should read the 1st post of the Mega Thread (and thscott's reply above) and see why the Eco light should be dealt with by disabling the Variable Cylinder Management. The maybe 1 mpg loss is way less than dealing with oil fouled plugs and misfires or Honda $5k "ring jobs" in the future.

PISTON RINGS/MISFIRES/FOULED SPARK PLUGS - The VCM mega...

This thread explains all the key details regarding VCM. Rather than re-explaining everything about VCM to every new forum member, they can simply be directed here. Self-service FTW! While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading...

www.odyclub.com

Welcome to the OdyClub Pedro!

 

Wanted to inform that if someone runs into these 2 symptoms, try a new gas cap first. Luckily there were no other codes

 

Still, you should consider muzzling your VCM, or I won't vote for you!

 

Will consider it for sure

 

Hello everyone, mine is a 2010 honda accord v6 with similar complain but the scan report says TP sensor low voltage and catalyst

 

Welcome to the OdyClub!
Please post the actual codes, and not the generic description. There are multiple sensors that can report low voltage, and oodles of catalyst codes.

 

Catalytic converters are pretty easy to diagnose. There's a voltage range that they're supposed to put out more than 0.9 or less than 0.1 will throw a card this is just a general rule of thumb you're specific voltage range may vary slightly usually the dead ones don't have any current. If you're not handy with a voltmeter there's an easier way. The function of a catalytic converter is to break down any extra gas fumes that are expelled by the engine. The process is exothermic that means it gives off heat. A point and click infrared thermometer can be had for about 10 bucks or less if you look hard enough. So what you do is you check the temperature before the catalytic converter and after there should be a 200° difference. Save yourself some money next time you going to dump $500 on a new cat.

 

Voltage range with a cat? They are passive, non-electrical exhaust parts. No voltage involved. No current. Perhaps you are referring to the O2 sensors?