First time transmission oil change on a 5th gen. 30,000 miles under it's steel belts. I removed the two 10mm breather nuts and set the breather to the side.

When I got under it it was obvious, I would not need to remove all the "tupperware & tin". I removed the rear 10MM in the middle of the frame, the plastic push gizmo and loosened the drivers side 10MM.

I put a can under the loose corner to hold it down. Applied a 3/8" extension/swivel and loosened the drain nut. (A 5” extension should work the best to clear the pan and cat) Using a Form A Funnel found on Amazon.... which I also use under the oil filter.... I slid it into place with a ratchet under it. Oil flowed, game over after reversing the moves. I replaced exactly the amount of oil that drained.

1 hour invested after the vehicle was on jack stands. Learning was involved, next time 45 minutes!!!!

PS: Yes, a 5 inch - 3/8" extension, is perfect for clearing the pan to loosen or tighten. Found on Amazon under the WorkPro name.

 

First time transmission oil change on a 5th gen. 30,000 miles under it's steel belts. I removed the two 10mm breather nuts and set the breather to the side.

When I got under it it was obvious, I would not need to remove all the "tupperware & tin". I removed the rear 10MM in the middle of the frame, the plastic push gizmo and loosened the drivers side 10MM.

I put a can under the loose corner to hold it down. Applied a 3/8" extension/swivel and loosened the drain nut. (A 5” extension should work the best to clear the pan and cat) Using a Form A Funnel found on Amazon.... which I also use under the oil filter.... I slid it into place with a ratchet under it. Oil flowed, game over after reversing the moves. I replaced exactly the amount of oil that drained.

1 hour invested after the vehicle was on jack stands. Learning was involved, next time 45 minutes!!!!


View attachment 183575 View attachment 183576 View attachment 183577

/chef’s kiss

 

Awesome, however you left out the amount of swearing, and alcohol involved. We need to know if a 12 pack is need or more [emoji16]

Sent from my LM-V600 using Tapatalk

 

Luckily, no alcohol or swearing. With the van being new and no rusted or stuck bolts, It was a breeze. It took me around 2 hours and I also did the oil and filter change and cleaned out my catch can.
It took longer to change the oil and filter and ATF on my '05 TL than the O&F and ATF on the G5.

 

My Drain-Fill on Ramps Data - and Tip to Avoid Hot ATF for Level Setting Bolt

Sharing my experiment changing our 2023 Odyssey’s ATF – follow on your own responsibility. At 60K miles, I used a 3X “drain-fill-drive” method of fluid exchange. I used ramps to drain ATF, added new ATF through the breather port on the transmission, and measured all fluids by weight – weight doesn’t change with temperature like volume does. At end of my third “drain-fill”, I performed the factory-prescribed ATF leveling procedure to confirm the fluid level – for me the two methods matched within 10 grams or <0.5 ounces.

Changing ATF at oil changes makes a dealer or independent mechanic’s job simpler – with a car level on a lift, it adds minimal extra time. But lifting and leveling the vehicle on jack stands takes me extra time, and adding the ATF through the fill port is awkward without a pressure system. Our Ody is primarily my wife’s vehicle, and I work on it when she won’t need it. I made the van level only after the last change, which helped me fit my work into available time.

With the front wheels of the Ody on ramps, I removed the radiator beauty panel, air intake snorkel, transmission breather, and aluminum tray under the transmission. I left the plastic shroud behind the bumper in place – I only removed it on my third ATF change, to perform the factory ATF leveling procedure (to avoid hot ATF from the level setting bolt, see below).

Catching all the ATF in a clean poly pan is basic to replace exactly what’s removed. I drained for 30 minutes, and reinstalled the cleaned bolt with a fresh washer. Recovered ATF was poured into an empty 5-quart oil jug, and WEIGHED. For the first change, the transmission and fluid were quite hot. I removed 4160 grams of ATF, or about 5.15 quarts, compared against the spec’d drain/fill of 4.5 quarts. I replaced the same weight of Honda Type 2 fluid. After four days of driving, I drained a second time, but the van and ATF were cooler. This time the ATF weighed 3892 grams (about 4.87 quarts). Nine days later the third drain “drain-fill” of ATF was also done cold, and it weighed 3811 grams (about 4.74 quarts). After this third fill, I leveled the Ody by jacking at the rear with jack stands. To be sure there would be extra to drain out, I added more ATF (what I had left of a quart, 138 grams or 5.5 oz). I performed the factory level setting procedure, and the fluid that drained out weighed 148 grams (about 6 oz). This was different from the add-back-what-I-took-out method by only 10 grams (less than ½ ounce).

I was happy with this result. Using weight instead of volume, with the Ody on ramps, and adding back exactly what I took out, I matched the level setting procedure well enough to do the first 2X drain-fills on ramps to save time and effort, and then do the full procedure to check my work. Our Honda 10-Speed Type B transmission has 8.8 quarts spec capacity, so the 15 quarts of Honda Type 2 ATF used in this 3X drain-fill-drive process replaced all but ca. 8.5 % of the old fluid.

TIP to remove and install the level setting bolt (LSB) without scalding your hands: Before beginning the ATF level setting, assemble a length of extensions with a 12mm socket that will allow you to put your socket on the LSB, but with your ratchet attached about 4.5 to 5 inches away, on the front side of the large tubular subframe member. This allows you to loosen and tighten the LSB with your hands away from the dripping, hot ATF.

 

Thanks for this detailed write up. I will try to find a scale I trust with tare, etc capabilities as I already have identical lexan containers for the next drain and fill cycle.

I also appreciate the level setting bolt detail too. I asked about 10 months ago and that was never answered, but your post clears it up.

 

Did the job today in about an hour. Our 2022 is at 30,5k miles.

I'll probably do it again at 50k miles and then stick to every 25k miles thereafter. 4.75 quarts came out and I put the same back in.

Here's the drain plug/magnet:

 

Sometimes it's just better to pay someone else to do a job, and this seems like one of those jobs. I think I would rather pay the money and skip all the aggravation, time, parts, and tools necessary to complete the job.

 

Sometimes it's just better to pay someone else to do the job, and this one seems like one of those jobs. I think I would rather pay the money and skip all the aggravation, time, parts, and tools necessary to complete the job.

If you can change your own oil you can do this.

 

Hey gang,
I wanted to do a second drain/fill before I venture west for the winter. I did my first drain/fill at 30,000 miles up in post #67. I figured a second a short time later (10,000 miles in two months!) would equal a 3/4 sump replenishment??? (first drain got half changed, second would leave a 1/4 sump of the original swill diluted).

Okay, I decided to lower to stock height and drop the level bolt to see how accurate my drain/fill through the breather procedure is. (a pain removing that bolt when I had it in the air) When it came time to reinstall when lowered, my hands would not twist to do it. Taking a break I remembered my Milwaukee M12 ratchet. Prayers answered! Easy peasy!

Was the oil level close? Yes, I measured how much I poured in and how much came out...... close enough!

 

OP thanks for such a detailed write up. Nice work.

Just curious on pic 4, it seems you have some type of leak no? Seems wet in certain areas.

 

You are right. There is some fluid seepage between the block and transmission. The Gen 2 Ridgelines with the same engine and different transmission. have similar issues. Nothing catastrophic has happened on those vehicles or mine, but I am anxious even calling a dealership to take a look.

 

As @ArmyCa said, the filer resembles the insides of a traditional oil filter.
In the 10spd transmission, the filter is internal and once you remove the ATF warner 'puck', you can access it. The honda 5spd and 6spd also came with these types of filters.

In the 9spd (ZF derived) the filter is external and can be found in the AWD equipped models using this transmission.

 

As @ArmyCa said, the filer resembles the insides of a traditional oil filter.
In the 10spd transmission, the filter is internal and once you remove the ATF warner 'puck', you can access it. The honda 5spd and 6spd also came with these types of filters.

In the 9spd (ZF derived) the filter is external and can be found in the AWD equipped models using this transmission.

Has anyone tried changing the filter? I didn't see anything on google about changing it.

 

What is the ideology behind a $230 fancy jug to do the ATF service? Typically folks use that to replace fluids via the dip stick tube; these transmissions do not have one. A $4 funnel and a generic piece of tubing works just fine. Am I missing something here?

 

On our 2008 Ody I would just do the drain and fill method every other oil change. 147K miles with no issues

 

@lovitzg , because of the little bump you have, you have a Type-B and thus 4.5qt of Type 2 fluid you would use.

 

So I answered my question above, it can be done and is relatively safe as well. This job is way easier than I imagined. The price of the dealer $500+ scared me the most, but it was actually very really simple. I've done transmission fluid changes before but this was just a bit trickier. I didn't use any swivel joints and simply loosened the bracket with the wiring harness to get easy access to the fill level bolt. I was extremely surprised with the cleanliness of the underside of my 18' Ody as I am in Southern Ontario Canada and we use way too much salt here. The only tip I would give is to make sure you have a nice couple of layers of old towels or something to catch the drips as no matter how slow I poured, I still got a few drips out as well.

 

Great job! For now i don't need to change oil but someday will come back to your post.

 

@RooflessVW
I have always liked doing a baseline with transmission and oil to see how much does come off, in case down the line after other changes their is more sludge factor added on than the first one.

I have got almost 58K miles on my 18 Elite, at around 40K miles the transmission probably in 1st or 2nd, started to shift oddly, but only after driving for 25-30 miles and coming to a Stop sign on the way home (4 blocks away). When I start out it seems like a small slip for a quarter of a second, than you can hear one of the transmission solenoids click into first and will go after that. I have 2 more stop signs after that before getting to my house and it does not do this again. It happens everyday at the same place at the stop sign (same bat place, same bat time. ) I will bring this up to Honda when ever I take it into them for the fuel pump recall as I received the second notice that pump parts are coming so be patient recall. The transmission has not got no worse than the first day it started so I have come to expect it.

 

Thanks the for write up and comments. First time doing this and it was only a little more involved than an oil change.

Some things I wish I would have known:

1. Agree with the comment about taking off the wire harness bracket. Simple thing makes it much easier and no swivel sockets needed
2. The original post says to use a 5/8 ID tube but I think they meant 5/8 OD tube. I had to leave mid-job to get one. Those trans fluid spout tools from Flotool would work but they are too short. I just got tubing from Lowe's
3. Once the tube is in the hole, something stops it from going too far but it's solid enough it's fine
4. The drain plug was the only one I couldn't knock loose while on the ground. Last person must have cranked it. Finally got it off by getting the breaker bar in it and using the jack to push the handle up slowly.
5. I don't think inclinometer is needed. Magnetic level is fine. If you are in the camp of just putting back whatever came out and not even opening the level bolt, you probably don't even one at all. (Maybe I'm wrong)

 

Refresh me on which years the 10 spd came on?

 

2018-2019 Touring and Elite had the 10 spd. LX, EX, and EX-L models came with a ZF-designed 9-speed.

All trims received the 10 spd for 2020.

 

Parts Needed

• Drain bolt washer 90471-PX4-000 (18mm) – 1 qty
• Fill bolt washer 94109-20000 (20mm) – 1 qty
• Level check bolt gasket 90471-59C-000
• Honda ATF Type 2.0 (08200-9015) – 5 qty (5 quarts total)

What about transmission filter? Why you skip it?

 

yup, you skip it because it is not recommended.

Even on Honda 5spds, you skip the filter, unless the transmission was poorly maintained by missed fluid changes or if they were operated under extreme temperatures. For the filter to clog up and cause a noticeable issue, the clutch material would be far beyond their designed life manifested by inability to move or slippage.

I have a G1 Ridgeline that I purchased new and have over 243K miles on it. ATF change as recommended, still on factory installed transmission filter.

 

I was accessing the level of difficulty to drain and fill my 2018 Odyssey Elite (10 speed, seemingly Type B transmission) when I was doing oil change. I took the splash guard and the transmission metal cover away, but still find the space to access the fill bolt and level check screw is very tight. I wonder there is enough space to move around. Also it is difficult to have a direct sight on the fill bolt. I took off the air intake at the top, but there is almost no help to see the fill bolt.

I used to do drain and fill my old 2007 Odyssey, and it was like a breeze, simplier than oil change. It appears Honda really made it difficult to maintain by owner now (The oil filter right above the control arm).

If the $500 is the transmission service fee, it is definitely a rip off.

 

I took the splash guard and the transmission metal cover away, but still find the space to access the fill bolt and level check screw is very tight. I wonder there is enough space to move around. Also it is difficult to have a direct sight on the fill bolt. I took off the air intake at the top, but there is almost no help to see the fill bolt.

I did everything from underneath since you have better physical and visual access to the various bolts. A mixture of shallow and deep sockets and extensions made it all come together. It is tricky to see directly inside the level bolt (especially when you're checking the ATF level afterwards), but I used my phone to fit between the narrow spaces and capture the fluid level. Waiting for that 'drip' from the level plug hole is a bit satisfying.

 

You cannot look at the fill bolt head on, you cannot see it from the top for sure.
You can only see it from the bottom once the splash guard is removed. This is a two hand job.

The 5spd & 6spd transmission with the fill bolt on the top were easy to access, but gone are those days as these transmissions and packaging is more complex.

 

You cannot look at the fill bolt head on, you cannot see it from the top for sure.
You can only see it from the bottom once the splash guard is removed. This is a two hand job.

The 5spd & 6spd transmission with the fill bolt on the top were easy to access, but gone are those days as these transmissions and packaging is more complex.

Thanks for the info. I will try to do it by myself.

 

If you buy one of those Mityvac ATF fill tools or alike plus the L shaped attachment needed to put the pipe into the hole, you should be good.

See attached example:

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For completeness I just wanted to add this PDF instruction sheet from the other thread.

 

It is already linked in post #1............................

 

I don't mean to revive an old post again, but back in the days of the 5 and 6 speed transmissions, I always did the drain and refill method 3 times per the Honda standard. I know most dealers just do it once (it would be cost prohibitive to do the drain and refill 3 times in one service considering the labor needed to pay someone to go drive the vehicle).

My question is, does Honda still want us to drain and refill 3 times with these 10 speed transmissions? Or is one enough?

 

I don't mean to revive an old post again, but back in the days of the 5 and 6 speed transmissions, I always did the drain and refill method 3 times per the Honda standard. I know most dealers just do it once (it would be cost prohibitive to do the drain and refill 3 times in one service considering the labor needed to pay someone to go drive the vehicle).

My question is, does Honda still want us to drain and refill 3 times with these 10 speed transmissions? Or is one enough?

Honda doesn't actually want you changing the transmission fluid... they want you to take it to the dealer to get it done.

Regardless, the 3x drain and fill method is a good method regardless of car (Honda or not). The whole point of it is to get as much old fluid out as possible, since only ~50% or so of the fluid comes out each time you drain. If your fluid is not dirty, you don't really need to do the 3x method. A more frequent maintenance interval (say, change it 1x every 20K miles) is preferable to waiting 50-60K miles and then doing the 3x method.

 

Fantastic write-up, thanks for posting. Only 5700 mi on our 2022, but I'll be going this myself once it's time...

 

Excellent write-up, thank you for instilling confidence in tackling this "near impossible" task as some call it. I set aside some time this Labor Day weekend to change everything. It was very straight forward, though more time consuming than an ATF flush on our previous '05 Odyssey. Seriously, you did a stellar job outlining everything.

 

Currently with the van at almost 82K, I got the A123 code which involves transmission fluid. Its only been around 14 months (almost 32K) since my first change.
Not sure if anyone else has a 80K+ on their vans that had this pop up.