Awesome, however you left out the amount of swearing, and alcohol involved. We need to know if a 12 pack is need or more [emoji16]

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Luckily, no alcohol or swearing. With the van being new and no rusted or stuck bolts, It was a breeze. It took me around 2 hours and I also did the oil and filter change and cleaned out my catch can.
It took longer to change the oil and filter and ATF on my '05 TL than the O&F and ATF on the G5.

 

Refresh me on which years the 10 spd came on?

 

2018-2019 Touring and Elite had the 10 spd. LX, EX, and EX-L models came with a ZF-designed 9-speed.

All trims received the 10 spd for 2020.

 

OP thanks for such a detailed write up. Nice work.

Just curious on pic 4, it seems you have some type of leak no? Seems wet in certain areas.

 

You are right. There is some fluid seepage between the block and transmission. The Gen 2 Ridgelines with the same engine and different transmission. have similar issues. Nothing catastrophic has happened on those vehicles or mine, but I am anxious even calling a dealership to take a look.

 

Parts Needed

• Drain bolt washer 90471-PX4-000 (18mm) – 1 qty
• Fill bolt washer 94109-20000 (20mm) – 1 qty
• Level check bolt gasket 90471-59C-000
• Honda ATF Type 2.0 (08200-9015) – 5 qty (5 quarts total)

What about transmission filter? Why you skip it?

 

yup, you skip it because it is not recommended.

Even on Honda 5spds, you skip the filter, unless the transmission was poorly maintained by missed fluid changes or if they were operated under extreme temperatures. For the filter to clog up and cause a noticeable issue, the clutch material would be far beyond their designed life manifested by inability to move or slippage.

I have a G1 Ridgeline that I purchased new and have over 243K miles on it. ATF change as recommended, still on factory installed transmission filter.

 

As @ArmyCa said, the filer resembles the insides of a traditional oil filter.
In the 10spd transmission, the filter is internal and once you remove the ATF warner 'puck', you can access it. The honda 5spd and 6spd also came with these types of filters.

In the 9spd (ZF derived) the filter is external and can be found in the AWD equipped models using this transmission.

 

As @ArmyCa said, the filer resembles the insides of a traditional oil filter.
In the 10spd transmission, the filter is internal and once you remove the ATF warner 'puck', you can access it. The honda 5spd and 6spd also came with these types of filters.

In the 9spd (ZF derived) the filter is external and can be found in the AWD equipped models using this transmission.

Has anyone tried changing the filter? I didn't see anything on google about changing it.

 

I was accessing the level of difficulty to drain and fill my 2018 Odyssey Elite (10 speed, seemingly Type B transmission) when I was doing oil change. I took the splash guard and the transmission metal cover away, but still find the space to access the fill bolt and level check screw is very tight. I wonder there is enough space to move around. Also it is difficult to have a direct sight on the fill bolt. I took off the air intake at the top, but there is almost no help to see the fill bolt.

I used to do drain and fill my old 2007 Odyssey, and it was like a breeze, simplier than oil change. It appears Honda really made it difficult to maintain by owner now (The oil filter right above the control arm).

If the $500 is the transmission service fee, it is definitely a rip off.

 

I took the splash guard and the transmission metal cover away, but still find the space to access the fill bolt and level check screw is very tight. I wonder there is enough space to move around. Also it is difficult to have a direct sight on the fill bolt. I took off the air intake at the top, but there is almost no help to see the fill bolt.

I did everything from underneath since you have better physical and visual access to the various bolts. A mixture of shallow and deep sockets and extensions made it all come together. It is tricky to see directly inside the level bolt (especially when you're checking the ATF level afterwards), but I used my phone to fit between the narrow spaces and capture the fluid level. Waiting for that 'drip' from the level plug hole is a bit satisfying.

 

You cannot look at the fill bolt head on, you cannot see it from the top for sure.
You can only see it from the bottom once the splash guard is removed. This is a two hand job.

The 5spd & 6spd transmission with the fill bolt on the top were easy to access, but gone are those days as these transmissions and packaging is more complex.

 

You cannot look at the fill bolt head on, you cannot see it from the top for sure.
You can only see it from the bottom once the splash guard is removed. This is a two hand job.

The 5spd & 6spd transmission with the fill bolt on the top were easy to access, but gone are those days as these transmissions and packaging is more complex.

Thanks for the info. I will try to do it by myself.

 

If you buy one of those Mityvac ATF fill tools or alike plus the L shaped attachment needed to put the pipe into the hole, you should be good.

See attached example:

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What is the ideology behind a $230 fancy jug to do the ATF service? Typically folks use that to replace fluids via the dip stick tube; these transmissions do not have one. A $4 funnel and a generic piece of tubing works just fine. Am I missing something here?

 

For completeness I just wanted to add this PDF instruction sheet from the other thread.

 

It is already linked in post #1............................

 

I don't mean to revive an old post again, but back in the days of the 5 and 6 speed transmissions, I always did the drain and refill method 3 times per the Honda standard. I know most dealers just do it once (it would be cost prohibitive to do the drain and refill 3 times in one service considering the labor needed to pay someone to go drive the vehicle).

My question is, does Honda still want us to drain and refill 3 times with these 10 speed transmissions? Or is one enough?

 

I don't mean to revive an old post again, but back in the days of the 5 and 6 speed transmissions, I always did the drain and refill method 3 times per the Honda standard. I know most dealers just do it once (it would be cost prohibitive to do the drain and refill 3 times in one service considering the labor needed to pay someone to go drive the vehicle).

My question is, does Honda still want us to drain and refill 3 times with these 10 speed transmissions? Or is one enough?

Honda doesn't actually want you changing the transmission fluid... they want you to take it to the dealer to get it done.

Regardless, the 3x drain and fill method is a good method regardless of car (Honda or not). The whole point of it is to get as much old fluid out as possible, since only ~50% or so of the fluid comes out each time you drain. If your fluid is not dirty, you don't really need to do the 3x method. A more frequent maintenance interval (say, change it 1x every 20K miles) is preferable to waiting 50-60K miles and then doing the 3x method.

 

Fantastic write-up, thanks for posting. Only 5700 mi on our 2022, but I'll be going this myself once it's time...

 

On our 2008 Ody I would just do the drain and fill method every other oil change. 147K miles with no issues

 

Excellent write-up, thank you for instilling confidence in tackling this "near impossible" task as some call it. I set aside some time this Labor Day weekend to change everything. It was very straight forward, though more time consuming than an ATF flush on our previous '05 Odyssey. Seriously, you did a stellar job outlining everything.

 

Currently with the van at almost 82K, I got the A123 code which involves transmission fluid. Its only been around 14 months (almost 32K) since my first change.
Not sure if anyone else has a 80K+ on their vans that had this pop up.

 

Thanks for writing up your work and this thread, smufguy ! Doesn't look nearly as difficult as filling a VW-AUDI DSG or the ZF 8-Speed on my truck.

I'm considering purchasing a 2023 Ody, and I've been mining the forum on what I'd be getting myself into compared woith what I've done in ten years owning and maintaining a 2012 EXL.

Mariner4
2012 EXL at 210K miles

 

I also have a 2019 Elite. Not sure how to tell if my 10AT is type A or B (do I need $3.00 level bolt washer)? Without disassembling anything I grabbed a boroscope picture of the level bolt and case to the right. I'm not sure what the "rib" on type B looks like. Is it the little raised circular protrusion? Mine looks just like smufguy's 2019 and NOT like .M.'s 2018.

So, smufguy, do I have type B that takes a 4.5 qt. fill?

 

@lovitzg , because of the little bump you have, you have a Type-B and thus 4.5qt of Type 2 fluid you would use.

 

Awesome stuff @smufguy !! Thank you. Where do I buy the list of needed parts including the fluid? I am aiming to complete the transmission fluid change this weekend and I am hoping I am able to find the needed parts by this Saturday. Any insight is much appreciated!

 

If you get parts and fluid via your Honda dealer, you should be able to get everything before the weekend.

 

Has anyone done this procedure without jacking up the front end? My driveway has a very slight incline, so I was going to raise the rear slightly to get it level. I was thinking if I had to jack the front, I will use ramps and then jack up the rear (probably put stands under the front welds just incase as well). Of course I want to get it level while being safe as well.

 

So I answered my question above, it can be done and is relatively safe as well. This job is way easier than I imagined. The price of the dealer $500+ scared me the most, but it was actually very really simple. I've done transmission fluid changes before but this was just a bit trickier. I didn't use any swivel joints and simply loosened the bracket with the wiring harness to get easy access to the fill level bolt. I was extremely surprised with the cleanliness of the underside of my 18' Ody as I am in Southern Ontario Canada and we use way too much salt here. The only tip I would give is to make sure you have a nice couple of layers of old towels or something to catch the drips as no matter how slow I poured, I still got a few drips out as well.

 

Great job! For now i don't need to change oil but someday will come back to your post.

 

Thanks for the great DIY - just did our 2022 with 45k miles on the clock.

 

Did the job today in about an hour. Our 2022 is at 30,5k miles.

I'll probably do it again at 50k miles and then stick to every 25k miles thereafter. 4.75 quarts came out and I put the same back in.

Here's the drain plug/magnet:

 

@RooflessVW
It's to bad that you could have scraped the sludge off the transmission plug drain bolt into a shallow coffee cup and put some paint thinner in the cup ( about a 1/4 cup worth, you would be able to see the metal particles. Most of the sludge you see on it is not magnetic, but just trapped with the small metal particles. Stirring the sludge with the sludge would separate the metal and other sludge items will show up in a half hour or less. You could even put you magnetic bolt into the cup to remove the metal and only see the metal on the magnet. You would probably see some more metal still in the cup, which would probably be the casting aluminum of the transmission that gets knocked off in areas when it is assembled.
Nothing looks abnormal by just the picture.

 

@RooflessVW
It's to bad that you could have scraped the sludge off the transmission plug drain bolt into a shallow coffee cup and put some paint thinner in the cup ( about a 1/4 cup worth, you would be able to see the metal particles. Most of the sludge you see on it is not magnetic, but just trapped with the small metal particles. Stirring the sludge with the sludge would separate the metal and other sludge items will show up in a half hour or less. You could even put you magnetic bolt into the cup to remove the metal and only see the metal on the magnet. You would probably see some more metal still in the cup, which would probably be the casting aluminum of the transmission that gets knocked off in areas when it is assembled.
Nothing looks abnormal by just the picture.

That's doing too much for me!

This is less material compared to other transmissions I have serviced and didn't find it alarming; I just wanted to add a point of data to the thread.

I'm so far pleased with this 10 speed. Seems to shift smoother after the service, but that may be imagined.