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DIY - 10spd ATF change

40K views 78 replies 30 participants last post by  gasman4u  
#1 · (Edited)
I braved this one and was rather straightforward than I anticipated. I am mechanically inclined and do more of the maintenance work myself on all my cars. Though I was anxious about the instructions, realistically, the process was very similar to every single ATF and rear diff and center transfer fluid changes I have done in the last 10 years. So I armed myself with lot of prayers, proper tools, sunshine and 43 degree weather to get this done on Sunday.

Disclaimer: Anytime someone modifies or makes repair to their vehicle, they assume the risk of voiding their vehicle's mfgr's warranty and possibly damaging the vehicle if proper care is not taken. By following these suggestions, you are at your own risk as I do not assume responsibility of your install. The owner’s manual recommends that a dealer perform this service.

Difficulty: Intermediate
Time: 1.5 hours (on the ground). I anticipate about an hour with a vehicle post.

Parts Needed
  • Drain bolt washer 90471-PX4-000 (18mm) – 1 qty
  • Fill bolt washer 94109-20000 (20mm) – 1 qty
  • Level check bolt gasket 90471-59C-000
  • Honda ATF Type 2.0 (08200-9015) – 5 qty (5 quarts total)

Tools Needed (add additional tools if needed):
  • ½” drive ratchet
  • ½” to 3/8” adapter
  • 10mm push type nylon fasteners (you may break your stock ones)
  • 10mm socket
  • 17mm socket (short socket, Do not use deep socket)
  • 3/8” drive ratchet
  • 3/8” or ½” Ratchet extensions and swivel joints
  • 5/8” ID (inner Diameter) flexible hose (ATF rated) – 2 feet
  • 5qt Drain pan (clean)
  • Breaker bar – optional
  • Digital inclinometer (magnetic) – optional
  • Honda 10spd ATF replacement procedure booklet (or subscription to a FSM)
  • Hydraulic jack and stands or vehicle lift (optional)
  • Impact gun, cordless - optional
  • Lock Neck Funnel (like a HF 66479/90468)
  • Phillips and flathead screw drivers
  • Safety gloves and goggles
  • Shop rag
  • Torque wrench
  • Work gloves (preferably the oil resistant ones)

IMPORTANT: Prior to starting the project, ensure that you have identified few things: adequate mechanical knowledge, Mental aptitude to get this done, physical dexterity, adequate patience, acceptable weather and humidity, and common sense. If you seem to lack any one of these, you may want to reconsider moving forward.


Preparation
  • Start off by removing the Engine cover, air intake tube (17243-5MR-A00) and the Front bulkhead cover (74117-THR-A00). You will need some room to work around [image below].
  • Move down below and remove the front splash shield (74111-THR-A00) and the metal Transmission cover (74112-TZ5-A02)[image below].
  • Then move the van to a level surface, place it on jack stands and using the magnetic digital inclinometer, ensure that the vehicle is level. Ensure it is level by placing the inclinometer directly to the underbody of the van. If you have a vehicle lifting post, you are extremely blessed.
  • Make sure the vehicle is supported and secured properly prior to working under the van.


Procedure
  • FIRST, Using the ½” drive ratchet and a 17mm socket, break the fill bolt free. Do not remove it yet. IMPORTANT: If you cannot break this bolt loose, DO NOT drain the ATF. Schedule a service with your dealership.
  • Using a 3/8” ratchet, ½” ratchet with a 3/8” adapter, or a breaker bar, remove the drain bolt and let the ATF fluid drain (may take 10 to 20 min to drain).
  • Remove the fill bolt and discard the old sealing washers from both the fill bolt and the drain bolt.
  • Clean both the bolts [dirty ones pictured below] and install the appropriate sealing washers.
  • Install the drain bolt & washer and torque to 36 ft-lbs
  • Insert the 5/8” tubing to the long neck funnel and insert the tubing into the fill bolt hole (ensure that there are no debris or burrs from the hose) [image below].
  • Once the ATF has drained, measure the volume and write it down.
  • Shake each quart of the ATF for 30sec prior to pouring it into the funnel. Unlike the engine oil that can be dumped rather fast, take your time and slowly add the recommended/amount you took out; adding too fast will cause the fluid to run out of the fill hole.
  • Install the fill bolt and washer and torque to 32 ft-lbs

* I used the socket, swivel, extension and ratchet setup to install the fill bolt back up.




IMPORTANT: Refer the 10 spd ATF fluid replacement & level check procedure for what type of transmission you have. Also, measure the amount of ATF you drained and it is always safe to put that amount back in (with fresh fluid). I drained approximately 4.25quarts and replaced that amount with new ATF.


ATF Level check
  • Follow the steps detailed in the ATF fluid replacement & Level check procedure found here >> 10 Speed Transmission Fluid Change
  • install the level check bolt and washer (if required). Torque to 15 ft-lbs.
Completion
  • Put everything back together and make sure you reset the maintenance minder accordingly.
  • Go take a shower and clean up as you probably smell like crap at this point.
 
#44 ·
Thanks for writing up your work and this thread, smufguy ! Doesn't look nearly as difficult as filling a VW-AUDI DSG or the ZF 8-Speed on my truck.

I'm considering purchasing a 2023 Ody, and I've been mining the forum on what I'd be getting myself into compared woith what I've done in ten years owning and maintaining a 2012 EXL.

Mariner4
2012 EXL at 210K miles
 
#47 · (Edited)
I also have a 2019 Elite. Not sure how to tell if my 10AT is type A or B (do I need $3.00 level bolt washer)? Without disassembling anything I grabbed a boroscope picture of the level bolt and case to the right. I'm not sure what the "rib" on type B looks like. Is it the little raised circular protrusion? Mine looks just like smufguy's 2019 and NOT like .M.'s 2018.

So, smufguy, do I have type B that takes a 4.5 qt. fill?

Image
Image
 
#52 ·
Has anyone done this procedure without jacking up the front end? My driveway has a very slight incline, so I was going to raise the rear slightly to get it level. I was thinking if I had to jack the front, I will use ramps and then jack up the rear (probably put stands under the front welds just incase as well). Of course I want to get it level while being safe as well.
 
#59 ·
@RooflessVW
It's to bad that you could have scraped the sludge off the transmission plug drain bolt into a shallow coffee cup and put some paint thinner in the cup ( about a 1/4 cup worth, you would be able to see the metal particles. Most of the sludge you see on it is not magnetic, but just trapped with the small metal particles. Stirring the sludge with the sludge would separate the metal and other sludge items will show up in a half hour or less. You could even put you magnetic bolt into the cup to remove the metal and only see the metal on the magnet. You would probably see some more metal still in the cup, which would probably be the casting aluminum of the transmission that gets knocked off in areas when it is assembled.
Nothing looks abnormal by just the picture.
 
#60 ·
@RooflessVW
It's to bad that you could have scraped the sludge off the transmission plug drain bolt into a shallow coffee cup and put some paint thinner in the cup ( about a 1/4 cup worth, you would be able to see the metal particles. Most of the sludge you see on it is not magnetic, but just trapped with the small metal particles. Stirring the sludge with the sludge would separate the metal and other sludge items will show up in a half hour or less. You could even put you magnetic bolt into the cup to remove the metal and only see the metal on the magnet. You would probably see some more metal still in the cup, which would probably be the casting aluminum of the transmission that gets knocked off in areas when it is assembled.
Nothing looks abnormal by just the picture.
That's doing too much for me!

This is less material compared to other transmissions I have serviced and didn't find it alarming; I just wanted to add a point of data to the thread.

I'm so far pleased with this 10 speed. Seems to shift smoother after the service, but that may be imagined.
 
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