Help Anyone?

Does anyone have any ideas for a solution to my problem?? I would sure appreciate any suggestions.

Melissa

 

Help Anyone? Does anyone have any ideas for a solution to my problem?? I would sure appreciate any suggestions. Melissa

Old thread, but I was very frustrated no one addressed the symptoms and the kiddo aspect. I had the same with mine. A lovely little boy playing with the locks and then the door would not unlock manually or with the power switch. It was the door lock actuator and NOT The fuel door switch. I was searching for a fix and came across your post and really want others to know to listen to people’s symptoms and when the problem started occurring. It was not a coincidence. There’s a few tricks for ruling out the door switch when the door lock is stuck.

1 holding the door lock up for 5-10 seconds. It will unlock if it’s a fuel door switch problem and the door will open slightly when you pull the handle. If it doesn’t unlock it is likely the actuator.

2. Put your ear against the sliding door with the fuel door open. Depress the switch. If you hear a slight click inside the door after depressing the switch the switch is working. No sound means the switch is not working.

3. If someone apologizes to Melissa for not listening, I’ll even share the secret of how to open the door when it won’t unlock so you can take off the panel and replace the actuator.

 

More than likely the switch that tells the door controller the fuel door is not closed. Open the gas filler door and check for a bent arm or missing plastic piece.
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=96539&highlight=fuel+filler

 

Thanks for the suggestion. I looked at the fuel door and all is functional. The arm is not bent and the black rubber piece is in place.

The lock got stuck when the little boy kept pulling on the outside handle as I was pushing the remote to unlock. Argh!!

Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance for your time.

Melissa

 

If the lock pulls back in lock when you manually unlock it then the switch in the fuel fill door is probably not making which means the door is slightly bent. It is a common problem as the door gets hit with the pump handle. The circuit is designed to lock the sliding door if the fuel door is open (or thinks it is open). Other than that you are going to have to pull the door panel and diagnose what is causing it. You are too hung up on the door handle thing which was probably just a coincidence.

Also check the Fuel door release lever by the driver door is working freely.

 

I am unable to manually unlock the door. It is stuck in the locked position.

 

At this point the inside cover will have to be removed to see what is hanging up the lock.

 

is there a thread about how to remove the panel??? I can't figure out how to get the inside door handle off on the sliding door. I have a very similar problem except for the door isn't stuck locked, its stuck unlocked. That door won't lock and can be opened any time.

 

As with almost all door handles you pull the clip with a spring hook. You can see the clip by pressing in on the trim vover and looking down behind the handle.
Clips can be popped out with a forked tool from the auto parts store or a screwdriver. You stand a chance of damaging the panel with a screwdriver. Tape it up if used. Procedure and pictures can be found in the OEM service manual.

 

thanks! I got it. Unfortunately that little clip flew off somewhere! oh well, figures.

 

Thank you for this! My fuel door was bent down a little bit and was not contacting the plunger. I lifted it up and voila! Problem solved! Passenger slider now unlocks.

 

Where is the "official" door topic? I am looking for a "magical" solution to maintain the door contact. I am finding that I need to use the eraser cleaning more often, at least every six months or more often. I do recall that once I had tried to use DeOxite but it actually started causing lots of problems. I had to clean it with alcohol before the doors would work again.

Over the weekend, I had one door beeping on turns. After using the eraser trick, the beeping stopped but later the driver door would not unlock. I verified the fuel door interlock mechanism but that was working fine. While the door was open, I tried locking and unlocking and then I realized that when the door is open, it is completely electrically isolated. So there must be separate pin connection in the door for unlock and lock. The lock was working but unlock was not. I used the eraser again and now both lock and unlock started working. I hope it lasts for a while.

Anybody got a better solution? My door junction blocks are still the original 1999. Mine did not get free TSB. I know NOT to touch sandpaper on them but is there anything better than eraser and/or alcohol?

- Vikas

 

Just try toggling the gas cap release lever and make sure the cap is shut ('01 Ody). Today the passenger side door would not unlock ...you know, when you have four kids in the van in a parking lot and the door won't open and you push buttons and pull handles and it just won't open. Ah ha! The problem is that it won't unlock. I pushed the manual lock open and pulled the handle and the door opened. All kids out. To test, I toggled the driver door lock switch and all doors lock/unlock except the driver side sliding door (can't see the passenger side lock, but that door works anyway). Later at home it still won't work so I read up on how the doors work and it turns out the gas cap has a lock-out--you knew it had to-- so out I went and pulled on the gas release tab (no friction or 'catch' felt on that action), the cap opened and I closed it and tried the locks and they work! Yea. The cap wasn't open or obvious but that is what it was. Repeated tests showed the lever has 'catch' feel to it when you pull it up. Easy fix, eh?. So, it's a feature, not a bug!

 

You realize that Melissa has not been seen for a few years?

 

The futility of providing closure to a 12 year old thread is not lost on me. This is honestly the only thread I could find on the web that applied to my situation of a 5 year old playing with the lock while trying to open the door and the lock getting stuck locked on an Odyssey. I’d think it’d be more common. Maybe the original poster will come across it in her inbox and smile. That door is either fixed or in a scrap yard at this point.

 

"If the lock pulls back in lock when you manually unlock"
I dont know what this means. How can a lock pull back?
Anyhow do we grease up the WHEELS on the door or grease up the SLIDE CHANNELS in the door?

 

Answered a year after the question was asked- better late than never! Welcome back, mpbrien!
Now it would be 3 years that Jennifer can't use that door if it still hasn't bee fixed!

 

. I think she’s still looking for that answer, just noticed an IM notification 40 minutes ago. I’ve been a lot more active on a motorcycle forum and now realize the usefulness of leaving answers on ancient posts.

So if I recall correctly it was very simple if it is indeed the door lock actuator that is broken and not the fuel door or cable. At least to get the door open, you still have to replace the actuator.

3. So if step one fails to unlock the door, try this. Unlock the doors. Yes, the sliding door won’t unlock but hopefully you won’t set off the alarm if it resets. Roll down the window.

reach inside from outside with one arm and manually try to pull up the door unlock switch. It won’t come up all the way, definitely won’t catch but keeping pulling up on it anyway. There will be resistance. It’s fighting the broken actuator mechanism. No Hercules stuff, just holding it as high as you can so it doesn’t pull back down

while holding the unlock switch up, pull the door outside door handle and it should open. I can’t recall if it worked with the power door switch still activated or the switch needed to be off. I think it work either way but if it doesn’t work with it on, try it with it off.

I’ll add a photo or two and try and find where I first found the answer. May have been a video, maybe just a different forum thread.

 

Yep! Three years it is!! I've got until the end of summer when my kiddos will ideally use the door for school drop-offs. By the way, mine is the right side door (not on the fuel side. )

 

That does make the fuel door pretty unlikely

and now that you mention it I think that’s what I realized I had to search to find the solution because everything else pointed to gas door. Might just find that video yet.

but meanwhile try holding up the latch while it tries to pull down and then pull on the door handle outside while trying to hold up the manual door lock. If you can see half or more of the red when pulling it up, I think that was enough.

then once hopefully open, you can replace the broken actuator. There are a few videos on that. Actuator was $60 or so if I recall if ordered online.
Only tools were something like a screw driver and maybe a wrench or two. May have taken me 30 minutes.

and yes, I did take a bit too long taking this photo and set off my alarm. . Hadn’t done that in years.
Keeping your passenger door or tailgate open when you unlock the door will keep that alarm from resetting.

 

Aw, bummer! No luck.
Even with a crowbar pushing up the unlock switch and using the outside door handle, doesn't work (either with the auto switch on or off).

 

Aw, bummer! No luck.
Even with a crowbar pushing up the unlock switch and using the outside door handle, doesn't work (either with the auto switch on or off).

Dang it. I’ll look around to be sure that was what worked for me. I know I got mine open somehow without breaking anything else.

 

Check out this related thread: Lock is jammed on sliding door, It may help. Could be that the Child Lock prevents the inside lock from unlocking.
Does the power lock/unlock work?

 

Earlier, we verified that the child lock is NOT locked. Then we attempted to remove the panel. We were able to get the left and right sides of the panel loosened, but the bottom is firmly in place.
Then we saw your tip and tried it in all permutations we could think of (power switch on/off, etc)
No luck.

I will be coming back to this over the summer until resolved. Also I noticed that many people are looking for the same solution.

Thank you for your help and ideas!

 

One last thing to try. Definitely didn’t require a pry bar kind of effort. Try pulling up the manual lock while hitting the unlock button on your fob. Maybe if the broken parts are both trying at the same time they can unlock the door just one dang time so you can then get off the panel.

I’ve come to the conclusion that it may have actually been Melissas question at the very start of this thread where I found my answer for how to open the door when the lock would try to stay shut.

“ If I pull and hold the slide lock towards the open position and pull the handle at the same time, the door will open automatically. It shuts automatically just fine. “

That was something I hadn’t tried yet. And yes, there was a lot of searching for tricks to open the door when stuck before that all pointing to a gas door when I knew the lock had jammed when my 3 year old was playing with pulling the lock up and down slider at the same time the power locks were trying to lock.

So, now armed with one last thing to try before trying to tear apart the panel without the door open, I went out to the car, power on to the sliding door, went inside, pushed up on the slide lock with just my thumb, pulled the inside handle with the same normal effort to open the door when everything works and, voila, open sesame, the door auto opened and then I could do all the normal stuff to get the inside panel off and replace the actuator.

 

Thanks for your help. Sadly, no luck so far. I read on another thread where a guy used a pry bar to pop the panel off, with lots of pressure along the bottom edge. Next time I work on it, I think I'm going to try that. Even if I end up breaking the panel (and replacing it for $250) that's cheaper than having the dealer do the same thing, with labor costs.

 

It is one thing I like about owning an older car. The fear of breaking something that’s mostly. cosmetic is greatly reduced.

What year odyssey is it? Other thing in the forums is trying to manually open with the battery disconnected. I’m guessing you’ve gone through those tries, but worth a mention. Maybe even try pulling up on the lock with the batterry disconnected just in case something powered is holding it up. And if that also fails, crowbar away. Good luck.

Side note, when I did finally get mine open, I replaced the door lock actuator with the $40 Dorman variety from Rock Auto. Hasn’t given me any trouble since.
Wish I could say the same for the center roller but that’s a different thread

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