There are a lot of discussions that already exist about this. To some extent you'll probably have to experiment and find out in your application.

Most important is to ensure you follow the bedding procedure to ensure long rotor life.

But it will always be different for everyone. Some go through rotors in 20-30k, while I'm on the factory rotors to this day.

 

I can't prove it but I'm still using my original brake rotors since I bought my 2010 Ody. Bought used 2018ish with 85k. Now odometer is just under 510k so 400k plus on the original rotors my ody came with.

This may have already been mentioned or answered in older posts but here is my two cent's. You have to understand warpage of brake rotors occurs from uneven cooling when the rotors gets really hot. The rotors are made to be able to get really hot then cool without warpage so the question you have to ask is what am I (you) doing to cause brake rotor warpage??

I'm pretty sure I can guess what's happening. your going down a long downhill with maybe lots of curves or maybe a long downhill you just have to brake a lot. The more you brake, you know the rotors gets really hot. Now picture driving down the long hill and you come to a red light and you have to stop but the light is at a incline (decline?) so you have to step on the brake kind of hard. This moment, you stepping on the brakes really hard when the rotors are really hot when you come to a full stop at a red light on an incline for a period of time is causing the uneven cooling to brake rotors.

You can imagine and see what's happening right? The rotors gets really hot but so does your brake pads and brake calipers. When you press on the brakes really hard at a stop light like the example above, the hot brake pads with the hot brake calipers are squeezing the brake rotors really hard. You pressing the brakes is squeezing the hot brake pads / brake calipers with the hot brake rotors but when you come to a stop, the area the brake pads is touching is retaining a lot of heat while everywhere else the rotors a gradually cooling. This is where the uneven cooling occurs to warp to brake rotors.

So the next question, what do I do at the above example so the brake rotors doesn't get warped? What I do when I come to a full stop like above example is I put my gear in neutral and I step on the emergency brakes, or if I think its maybe a longish red light then I put it in park. I've gotten in a habit of doing one or the other I do it for most all red lights I have to come to a stop. No more brake rotor warpage, try it.

 

See this recent and lively thread about rotors and the myth that they warp.

Brakes replacement: please check my math

My Odyssey 2007 needs new brakes (both front and rear). A local tire place quoted me $1,411 for this job. So I thought I would check how much it would be to buy all the parts myself and find a local mechanic to install them. My total came to $554. Am I missing some parts in my calculations or...

www.odyclub.com

 

I do “downshift” into “3” by depressing the button on the shifter to minimize as much braking as possible on long declines.

I can recommend to stop doing it.
Why would you terrorize your transmission like that? Tear and wear should be somewhere else.

Rotors are cheap, and easy to replace. I used to replace them once a year.
Last rotors that I have are from Pilot, they still holding up. But I will replace them in a heartbeat, once they go bad.

 

I can recommend to stop doing it.
Why would you terrorize your transmission like that? Tear and wear should be somewhere else.

Rotors are cheap, and easy to replace. I used to replace them once a year.
Last rotors that I have are from Pilot, they still holding up. But I will replace them in a heartbeat, once they go bad.

I somewhat get what you're saying but to throw out the idea of compression braking entirely is crazy. I live on Maui and have driven my van up to Haleakala Volcano several times. I'd likely not make it to the bottom without using the gears as the brakes would burn up before I reached the bottom. At a minimum I'd be going through a set of rotors each trip. Hammering on the brakes as the only means of slowing a vehicle is totally crazy advice.

 

I replaced my rotors after 17K (this set) with slotted and drilled from R1 in March. We shall see. I only drive 5-6K a year so it takes years to accumulate wear. I usually end up having to replace rotors before the pads. Back in the day, it used to be buy the best pads you can get and the cheapest rotors. Just flip the rotors when necessary. I eventually got tired of that.

 

For what its worth...... I had pulsating with new rotors. Had to bed the pads every time I went on the highway. After doing that 8 or 9 times over the course of a month the pulsating is gone and never came back.

 

Try some Castrol SFR brake fluid if you're getting brake fade. My 4500lb car will lose the brakes on track days with stock fluid, but not with the SFR. The wet boiling point is much higher than standard fluid and the only drawback is its $60 a bottle.

 

Valuable advice here. Thanks to all. Will keep the “downshifting” to a minimum. I agree that the brakes are relatively cheap in comparison to the cost of replacement of the already weak transmission.
But as far as replacing rotors, is there any consensus as to the brands to look for or to avoid?

 

Many here like the Centric rotors from Rock Auto.
Brembo is also good.

 

Fwiw, the Ody grade braking is actually quite good. I've towed a lot of RV trailers with different trucks (never towed with the Ody) and I definitely know my way around trying to slow down things rolling down hills. The Ody coming down steep grades holds the van at low speeds quite nicely in 2nd or even 1st on really steep/winding roads. The engine never revs excessively and I don't feel I'm being hard on it at all. I took my wife's ride (2020 Jeep Cherokee) up to the Maui volcano once and I swear it accelerates when trying to grade brake. I did everything I could and the brakes were hot and smelling when I got to the bottom. An auto engineer could probably explain it but I've never understood why some vehicles compression brake so well while others are just worthless. And there's more to it than just gear ratios. Some engines just feel "open" (for lack of a better term) and let the car "release" while others hold the vehicle back. I ran a diesel truck with a 12,000# trailer for years and could come down a steep mountain pass without touching the brake pedal. I don't know what the perfect balance is but listening/feeling the car/van/truck has served me well so far.

 

This is way off topic from OP question, but a diesel engine will not slow down unless it has an engine brake or intelligent transmission. By design, they don't have compression braking unless interventions are in place.

 

Just want recommendations on the brand of choice.
Is it beneficial to get the drilled/slotted design?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Hey, I don't have a Odyssey in your year range but we always had issues with warping(high speed shimmy). I replaced the rotors a few times and even went with some rotors my brother in law recommended. Nothing worked long term. A few years ago I had Brakes Plus replace the pads and they have a delux option with ceramic pads. Since then, no more shimmy. I would recommend them or anyone that uses ceramic pads. The bonus was a lifetime warranty. I think they used the same slotted discs I had but the pads seemed to be the issue. Cheers.

 

I think I share in the many 2005-2010 Odyssey owners with front brake issues. I have a 2005 EX-L with 100K miles. Currently on the 3rd set of rotors. Mostly due to rotor warpage.
I’m reaching out for recommendations on the “proven” brand(s) available from those who have had reasonable luck without getting premature warping. I currently have Brembo rotors but they’ve warped at about 35K miles.
I primarily drive this van on long trips so high speeds with infrequent braking, but on some hills so the brakes probably get pretty hot. I do “downshift” into “3” by depressing the button on the shifter to minimize as much braking as possible on long declines.
I’m thinking of tackling the job myself as it doesn’t look all that difficult.
Just want recommendations on the brand of choice.
Is it beneficial to get the drilled/slotted design?

Thanks in advance for your input.

I've posted on this earlier. I've installed rotors with slots and holes and these are lasting longer than any other rotors I've replaced so far. I got those from 1aauto.com. Wishing you the best.

 

Thanks for your input. Any idea of the brand?
And did you change them yourself?

 

You might want to try drilled and vented rotors and ceramic pads. However, there is a specific new disc brake break in procedure that must be followed. If you don't do that, warped rotors are often the result!

 

I think I share in the many 2005-2010 Odyssey owners with front brake issues. I have a 2005 EX-L with 100K miles. Currently on the 3rd set of rotors. Mostly due to rotor warpage.
I’m reaching out for recommendations on the “proven” brand(s) available from those who have had reasonable luck without getting premature warping. I currently have Brembo rotors but they’ve warped at about 35K miles.
I primarily drive this van on long trips so high speeds with infrequent braking, but on some hills so the brakes probably get pretty hot. I do “downshift” into “3” by depressing the button on the shifter to minimize as much braking as possible on long declines.
I’m thinking of tackling the job myself as it doesn’t look all that difficult.
Just want recommendations on the brand of choice.
Is it beneficial to get the drilled/slotted design?

Thanks in advance for your input.

Centric rotors last

 

I think I share in the many 2005-2010 Odyssey owners with front brake issues. I have a 2005 EX-L with 100K miles. Currently on the 3rd set of rotors. Mostly due to rotor warpage.
I’m reaching out for recommendations on the “proven” brand(s) available from those who have had reasonable luck without getting premature warping. I currently have Brembo rotors but they’ve warped at about 35K miles.
I primarily drive this van on long trips so high speeds with infrequent braking, but on some hills so the brakes probably get pretty hot. I do “downshift” into “3” by depressing the button on the shifter to minimize as much braking as possible on long declines.
I’m thinking of tackling the job myself as it doesn’t look all that difficult.
Just want recommendations on the brand of choice.
Is it beneficial to get the drilled/slotted design?

Thanks in advance for your input.

I've tried a bunch of different rotors, none lasted much over 20k miles before I got that dreaded pulsation at the brake pedal. I know someone is going to ask, yes I did bed in the brake properly. I do 6 repeated stops from 60 to 10 to get the brakes hot. I then drive on the highway to get the brakes cool off.

On the plus side, replacing rotors is not difficult. I can do each side in about 45 mins. You don't need any special tools. While there, take a peek at your CV joint boots to make sure they are intact.

 

I think I share in the many 2005-2010 Odyssey owners with front brake issues. I have a 2005 EX-L with 100K miles. Currently on the 3rd set of rotors. Mostly due to rotor warpage.
I’m reaching out for recommendations on the “proven” brand(s) available from those who have had reasonable luck without getting premature warping. I currently have Brembo rotors but they’ve warped at about 35K miles.
I primarily drive this van on long trips so high speeds with infrequent braking, but on some hills so the brakes probably get pretty hot. I do “downshift” into “3” by depressing the button on the shifter to minimize as much braking as possible on long declines.
I’m thinking of tackling the job myself as it doesn’t look all that difficult.
Just want recommendations on the brand of choice.
Is it beneficial to get the drilled/slotted design?

Thanks in advance for your input.

I bought rotors and pads from Rock Auto- Powerstop and they have lasted over 80K miles. The secret is to bed them in correctly. Follow the instructions included in the kit.

 

I think I share in the many 2005-2010 Odyssey owners with front brake issues. I have a 2005 EX-L with 100K miles. Currently on the 3rd set of rotors. Mostly due to rotor warpage. I’m reaching out for recommendations on the “proven” brand(s) available from those who have had reasonable luck without getting premature warping. I currently have Brembo rotors but they’ve warped at about 35K miles. I primarily drive this van on long trips so high speeds with infrequent braking, but on some hills so the brakes probably get pretty hot. I do “downshift” into “3” by depressing the button on the shifter to minimize as much braking as possible on long declines. I’m thinking of tackling the job myself as it doesn’t look all that difficult. Just want recommendations on the brand of choice. Is it beneficial to get the drilled/slotted design? Thanks in advance for your input.

I used to have the same with Pilot original Honda rotors. I have switched to Centric crio-treated ( OEM grade) and ceramic pads. It worked like a charm. Given that you used Brembo the mechanic that worked on your wheels or brakes might have used impact wrench to tighten the lug nuts. Too tight nuts will warp the rotors mo matter what brand. Tighten by hand and use common sense.

 

Its amazing to read about 2005-2010 having front brakes vibration issues. Combining that gen with gen 4 Odys, there were/are vibration issues with the front brakes of many Odys 2005 through 2017!
Amazing lack of response from Honda. When they did finally come up with a new rotor design (2017?) I have read that it did not solve the frequency of front brake issues. So thats 12 yrs of Odys, amazingly long lived problem.

DanaH

 

Aaah, yes, the undersized brakes on the 2005-6 Honda odysseys…

I had the brake rotor warpage as well. I have a 2006 ex.
I replaced my rotors myself in 2017 @ 121k with Beck Arnley 083055 from Rockauto.
I never had any shimmy.
I bought them because they had “ high carbon steel”.
I replaced these rotors on 5/2022 @ 180k with Centric 120.40064 that I bought on the Centric store on Amazon.
This is a premium Centric rotor.
NOTE: I live in the rust belt. Very salty here. Rotors rust.
are your brake caliper pins well lubricated? Replacing the brakes caliper pins and boots is cheap. If they don’t move freely they will lead to premature pad wear and heat on the rotor.

Pads: I used Duralast Gold front pads because of the lifetime warranty. I’m on my third set.
However, I recently installed akeebono pads in my daughters Corolla and they are AWESOME. They are more expensive but I will install them on every car in the future for my front brake pads.

 

Reading threads like this one about rotors wearing or warping and poor braking in general make me think I drive a different car. Maybe I’m just incredibly lucky to never experience these problems in my 140k miles on my 06. I always found brakes on my ody to be really good and confidence inspiring. And I am using them pretty hard.

 

I've used the coated Centric rotors from Tire Rack / Rock Auto. Very happy with the results. But i don't have steep inclines and declines like some folks on here.

 

I think I share in the many 2005-2010 Odyssey owners with front brake issues. I have a 2005 EX-L with 100K miles. Currently on the 3rd set of rotors. Mostly due to rotor warpage.
I’m reaching out for recommendations on the “proven” brand(s) available from those who have had reasonable luck without getting premature warping. I currently have Brembo rotors but they’ve warped at about 35K miles.
I primarily drive this van on long trips so high speeds with infrequent braking, but on some hills so the brakes probably get pretty hot. I do “downshift” into “3” by depressing the button on the shifter to minimize as much braking as possible on long declines.
I’m thinking of tackling the job myself as it doesn’t look all that difficult.
Just want recommendations on the brand of choice.
Is it beneficial to get the drilled/slotted design?

Thanks in advance for your input.

First of all, I want to applaud you for wanting to do your own brake job. If you want it done right you will have to do it yourself. No one else is going to take the time or care once they have your money.

Most people don't understand that it takes more than just slapping on new rotors and pads to do a proper brake job. A good brake job starts with good hub prep before installing the rotor. If you live in a rust state like me, it doesn't take long before rust builds up on your hub and throwing your rotor runout out of spec. In my opinion, proper hub prep is more important than brake pad bed in. The hub should be completely free of rust and coated with antiseize before installing the rotor. The rotor lateral runout must be checked and must be less than 0.002 inches. If not, you will need to carefully grind down the hub or flip the rotor or both. Make sure that the lug nuts are torqued to 95ftlbs before checking the runout. There are many videos on YouTube that explain how to do this. Check this one out.

The tools to check the runout can be purchase at Harbor Freight. You will also need a hub and stud cleaner which they don't sell at Harbor Freight.

In my opinion, here are the things to consider for a proper brake job. 1) good hub prep and check lateral runout 2) good caliper prep including greasing and cleaning pins 3) keep your wheels properly torqued 4) use the right quality brake parts 5) brake pad bed in.

My recommendation for brake rotors and pads is Bosch Quiet Cast (full ceramic). I've had these on my van for the last four years and they are barely rusted or worn. No shake at all and great stopping power. Before that, I had to replace my rotors every year because they were severely rusted after one Chicago winter and screeching or vibrating. You might not need the extra rust protection if you don't live in the rust belt. I've also heard good things about Centric rotors and Akebono pads but have never tried them.

 

The button only disables overdrive (for towing), it is still in 1:1 ratio, downshift to 2nd on big hills. Avoid touching your brakes on a long hill as if the pedal were lava, if you are still going too fast downshift more and rev instead (yes you may have to give it accelerator downhill then, which is weird, but sure beats cooking your rotors). Even light but constant application is going to overheat them, or say 10 seconds of usage max for every 60 continuous seconds of cooldown. Better to stomp them a bit excessive and slow down too much and then give more cooldown time. But best to just use the engine braking as long as it's not redlining.

 

First, brake rotors don't warp. They do develop vibrations and pulsations. Read this engineering white paper: https://www.centricparts.com/media/...ins_docs/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf

I've had the same set of StopTech Cryogenically Treated slotted rotors on the front of my '09 Odyssey Touring for 250K miles so far. Cryogenically treating the rotors eliminates internal stresses and makes a much more durable rotor. This is the preferred method for ambulances, fire trucks, police vehicles, and racing. Blank (not slotted or drilled) rotors maximize braking surface area and braking forces. Slotted allow gases to escape and provide a biting surface that can enhance braking performance under extreme conditions not often encountered in street driving. Blanks weren't available when I got mine, so I chose slotted. Drilled rotors started in the 1960s to allow improved ventilation, escaping of gases, and performance but they have reduced surface area, so there is less braking force, and all drilled rotors eventually crack. They are banned from motorsports for safety reasons. Drilled and Drilled/slotted rotors are for style, not maximum durability or performance.

See cryo-treated rotors and get part numbers here:

Search Results

www.centricparts.com

Match the rotors with quality brake pads. Centric, StopTech, and Akebono Performance pads are excellent choices.

 

First, brake rotors don't warp. They do develop vibrations and pulsations. Read this engineering white paper: https://www.centricparts.com/media/...ins_docs/Centric_and_APC_Technical_Whitepaper_B1-Warped-Brake-Disc-8-2018_1.pdf

Thanks for posting the paper. I was getting brake vibration at 40k on Centric 120s + Akebono ProACT pads. Would have been interesting and relatively easy to try the garnet paper on the rotors and see what happened. I tried the Bosch QuietCast setup this time for some variety.

 

I have a 2007 Ody with 290k miles. Have had the braking vibration issue in the past. Everything needed to fix has been mentioned in this thread. New rotors, pay special attention to the hub face, it must be clean. Bed correctly, use a torque wrench on the bolts.... I have had good luck with the raybestos element 3 rotors, but I'm in MN and mostly for rust minimization. Paying attention to the details matters.

 

Interesting about downshifting to slow down in long down hill drive.
I had Mazda MPV with Ford V6 engine in it. I could reliably shut that engine down by downshifting while going down hill. It would NOT shut down when I had foot on my accelerator when shifting down.
Mazda claimed it was "normal" behavior and I should NOT downshift while car is moving. If I wanted to downshift, I should STOP the car and shift down, and then continue. The engine did not shutdown when car was not moving so it was interesting.
But, I NEVER had ANY other auto transmission car that behaved same way.

I got rid of the car when the engine would occasionally shut down even when not shifting the transmission. I think there definitely was some kind of electrical issue that they could not figure out.