crc makes good stuff, the same as others.
you going to spray that down the intake throat?

I use chevron techron, buy a case and throw a bottle in the tank from time to time.

 

Yes,
I plan to spray a can into the intake.

 

 

You could also just use the starter with the plugs out to get the excess fluid out.

 

I've had good results using SeaFoam, which some swear by, and others say to avoid like the plague.

Undo a vacuum line post-throttle body and let the vacuum suck in liquid, or spray from a compressed air can if that's what you got.

Using SeaFoam Liqud, you can stall the engine out with it (intentionally so), after it's warmed up and let the liquid do its' thing in the warm cylinders. It can be very tough to get it started afterwards, and it'll smoke out all that carbon so excessively that people seem to think that it broke their car, which is typically the "stay away from SeaFoam" comments I see, not understanding that that's what it's supposed to do and how it works best if you use it for a full-on "carbon cleaning session."

I just add a cap-full to my gas every fill-up so it's a gradual thing over time without having to do a full "carbon cleaning session" and avoid the excessive smoking / tough start conditions that go along with it (common with B12 and other carbon cleaners too).

 

I've tried Seafoam and Marvel Mystery Oil to reduce oil burning in my Accord, neither had much effect other than creating a nice smoke show for the neighborhood afterwards. But I suspect that was caused more by me not refilling it in each cylinder after it drained past the rings.

 

I am also looking at liqui moly pro line engine flush to really clean the rings. I have used it before also with great success.

The fuel additive I am using is redline SL-1 and Gumout one-n-done after a few hundred kms.

 

don't really recommend any cleaners in the oil.

had a Hyundai v6 recently, mud motor, the owner put an engine clean product in the crankcase / oil and 50 miles later a rod bearing started knocking.
guessing the treatment dislodged some sludge and starved one of the oil galleries.
didnt do a tear down to find the root cause.

it is Hyundai junk after all, and they cant make a motor to save their life, but the dislodging of deposit buildups is a legit concern with those treatments in any motor.

use good synthetic oil and change it often to remove buildup.

 

You don't want an engine flush in the oil, but something like MMO or Seafoam in a somewhat small amount to clean up carbon should be fine.

ETCG killed a J35A7 doing that:

 

junkyard motors are hit and miss...

 

Gotta' say, I keep seeing more and more reasons to buy new and drive it 'til it dies from rust belt cancer. Deferred maintenance and the attempts to cure it, by previous owners, make used cars....unappealing.

 

It's not awesome. However this honda 3.5 is one of the smoothest running v6's ever, I can see why they used a belt. That is smooth when the VCM is not active. I can't wait to permanently disable it.
We had a grand caravan previously, that engine and trans were aweful. Rough and very unrefined.
Already have driven 60kms with the high PEA gumout fuel system cleaner and noticing a difference already.

I would love a new odyssey, we just can't afford it now.
Perhaps in the future.......

 

#1 how do you know you have carbon buildup? Unless you did a borescope visual or failed a smog test with high nox concentration, you dont really know.
2. I had an experience with this with a honda passport (isuzu rodeo) failed smog a borescope inspection revealed up to 1/8 inch of caked on crud on top of each piston. Seafoam, Techron, and Pass or dont pay had zero effect on it. If you can afford $20 or so in parts, a trip to home depot, are resourceful and not a scared girly man, you can safely get your cylinders sparkling clean with a half gallon or less of distilled water. I will find my post from the isuzu forums and share.

 

#1 how do you know you have carbon buildup? Unless you did a borescope visual or failed a smog test with high nox concentration, you dont really know.
2. I had an experience with this with a honda passport (isuzu rodeo) failed smog a borescope inspection revealed up to 1/8 inch of caked on crud on top of each piston. Seafoam, Techron, and Pass or dont pay had zero effect on it. If you can afford $20 or so in parts, a trip to home depot, are resourceful and not a scared girly man, you can safely get your cylinders sparkling clean with a half gallon or less of distilled water. I will find my post from the isuzu forums and share.

It's a vcm odyssey with 144k
I don't need a boroscope to know there is carbon in the piston rings.
It is the no 1 problem with these engines....every week more people post on here looking for help because they need new sparks and or rings.....so ya
There is lots of carbon.
I'm getting to it first.
Just did the flush tonight with fresh 5w-30 and a new filter.
Oil came out nice and dark after 15min of idling.
I will be doing a plug replace this weekend.

It's already driving and idling better after the flush.

 

If anyone wants to C/P my opening post to this thread please do. Im posting from mobile so thats a pain. My post is long and detailed, and the thread saw some heated discussion particularly from a guy promoting oil catch cans to fix a problem most of us dont have. Any questions you may have were probably covered somewhere in that thread. In retrospect I would emphasize a couple of things.
1. Water injection is well known to keep cylinders clean. WW2 fighters used it.
2. This is not the crude method used by your brothers cousins sisters dad, where he filled a beer can with water and dumped it down the carb. It is a relatively precise way of introducing a mist into the fuel air chsrge at a constant rate at the ideal ratio, about 1 part water to 10 parts fuel. It is done with the throttle contant so vacuum is stable.
3. The method I worked out involves a dual valve control behind the wheel, whereas one opens a valve to allow a vacuum leak, then another valve to introduce water which mixes with the air in a clear expansion tube. You can vary the flow via either valve, but you dont want to close the air valve with the water valve open. Or worse do it while letting off the throttle. A good way is to have both slightly open and if you need more water just tap your finger on the vacuum leak valve for a split second, the expansion tube will show the water increase.
I had fun figuring all this out, the old passport passed smog easily, idled smoother, revved noticeably faster, and I only repeated about once a year.
I have not done this to my ody. The only thing to figure out is where to tap the intake so all cylinders get equal distribution.

Carbon buildup, the Seafoam Scam and Water Injection

Okay I'd like to share my little adventure trying to pass smog on an unmodified 170k mile 95 passport V6. Failed for hi NOS on the 25 mph run. Had some iffy vacuum lines and a couple exhaust leaks but they shouldn't have been enough to fail it. The carbon buildup issue seemed like a logical...

www.planetisuzoo.com

First thing to do, get a borescope. Theyre $10 on ebay, and they work.

 

Those interested in Liqui Molu Pro line engine flush - - check it out.

I noticed a smoother running engine after, with smoother acceleration.
I was getting these strange acceleration hiccups - - - probably ring / spark issues.

Almost completely gone now - will be changing the sparks very soon.

 

How about a loaded question? If fuel cleaners cannot clean intake valves on a DI engine, did you ever ask yourself how the carbon got on the valve in the first place? The answer is valve overlap. All engines have it which is how combustion by-products can make their way all the way out to the throttle body and even the Mass Air Flow sensor. Particularly at higher engine speeds, the intake and exhaust valves are open at the same time for a split second. This is when exhaust gases escape into the intake tract. The intake valve is the first thing they hit so over time it can build up and cause problems. If you use a mild cleaner in your fuel all the time, like Startron or Sta-Bil stabilizers, the cleaners are carried wherever the exhaust gases go, so you are not only cleaning the liquid and intake side, you are cleaning the exhaust side too. Cars using this method may never need injector or intake cleaning or throttle body cleaning. The cleaning is most effective on a cold engine with a rich mixture but its always there working for you.

 

The 3.5 is port injected......

 

Is there a place I can read more about the exhaust gas manages to migrate against the general flow of air toward the intake manifold?

And how the detergents manage to survive the combustion process to be effective on their way out?

 

The only detergent that can survive the combustion process is PEA.
Get a cleaner with PEA.
Gumout all in one.
Redline SL-1
Techron
All have good amounts of PEA.

 

Isn't this (part of) what the additive package in Top Tier is supposed to address? Can't see why this should be an issue on a port inject motor.

Actually even the direct inject Honda V-6 seems to be holding up well when it comes to carbon buildup on the valves. A few have posted borescope picture on the Pilot forums from their 3rs gens. Nowhere near as bad as the older BMW and VW motors.

 

It depends on how the engines are driven - - - a lot of short trip cold weather driving <mostly our driving style> - - carbon can build up very easily on a lot of components.
So yes - an additional additive with PEA in it really helps to keep things clean.

 

While you're after carbon it couldn't hurt to clean the throttlebody. You'd be amazed at the gunk that accumulates on the back of and behind the butterfly valve

 

Thanks.
Good advice.

 

I have done 1 liqui moly proline engine flush <this one is the big can>, I am half a tank into a gumout one n done treatment.
So far - - - better acceleration - smoother idle. The varnish inside the engine has reduced a little bit since the flush.
I have decided - after contacting liqui moly - to do another oil flush in 400kms.
I know - I know flushes some say are not safe -
After talking with the Liqui Moly tech in Germany - he discussed the safety and efficacy of the product.
I feel much better doing another flush to really clean the piston rings.

So far- -- nothing but improvements.

As a reminder - i used fresh 5w-30 dino ST oil for 15mins on a fully warmed up engine <drove 30mins> It takes a while for the engine oil to reach operating temp, not the coolant.
The flush is designed to work with oil at operating temp - 80/100c.

I will be using it with 5w-30 again this time it will have only 400kms on it.

Cheers