More info: This happens in warm or cool weather and seems to be worse when engine is cold. The symptoms seems to be getting worse over time.

 

See reply to similar post. Problem is likely bad check valve in fuel pump.

 

Could be a dirty throttle body...

Dave

 

Battery is strong

How did you diagnose this? Unless you had a conduciveness test performed, I don't think you can rule out the battery yet.

 

Battery is only a few months old. Starter cranks very strong. Not a battery issue. Leaning towards the check valve as symptom seems worse the longer the cars sits.

 

It's your van and your time so do what you like but you can't base condition of battery on age alone. I've had 6 month old batteries go bad on me in the past. Do a search on the forum and you'll find plenty of posts about longevity of batteries, especially during this time of year when the weather starts to turn. There is a reason batteries come with warranties. They can go bad at anytime. Stick a comparable battery in there and see if it changes anything if you don't want to get your battery tested. Rather than chasing gremlins, sometimes it's the simplest fix. If you start burning through batteries though then it could be something bigger within the electrical system. Just my thoughts. Good luck. Hope you get it all fixed.

 

One easy way to see if you are dealing with a fuel or spark issue is to just cycle the ignition to the "on" (do not try to start) position a couple times before you actually start it. If it fires quicker, then your issue may lie somewhere in the system losing fuel pressure when it sits. If you drive to a gas station, run into grab something, and come back out to start it, is it the same or does it fire quickly?

You mention that it happened before/after the fuel assembly replacement, so I think it would be safe to presume your problem is not there. There are TSB's out there for other cars where the injectors can get fouled up over time and therefore the pintle/plunger won't seat correctly. As the car sits while off, the pressure bleeds out. Pulling the spark plugs and replacing or cleaning (if they are older) is never a bad idea. Good luck!

 

I should add that I don't know where that check valve is (in that new pump or not), and as mentioned, could certainly be the issue. Here is the thread as shall36 mentioned:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-20...ssey/216538-long-cranking-issue-engine-turns-over-too-long-before-starting.html

 

I don't think the recall replaces the pump or directly related components, just that top portion.

The FSM shows a pressure regulator on the pump assembly, which probably also acts as the check valve. If I'm correct in that, it can be procured separately from the pump assembly. The pump assembly includes the regulator along with other stuff.

A leaking injector should be accompanied by some black soot on start up. I would also think you would have some drivability issues and possibly a code. A leaking injector is very possible.

On a cold start, cycle the ignition key on to off several times. Each time you do that, the pump runs for 2 seconds. If you do that and get instant start, it's a good bet you have a pressure issue. The question is, where's the pressure going. My money is on the check valve/regulator.

Maybe one of the techs will chime in and give you correct information.

 

I don't think the recall replaces the pump or directly related components, just that top portion. The FSM shows a pressure regulator on the pump assembly, which probably also acts as the check valve. If I'm correct in that, it can be procured separately from the pump assembly. The pump assembly includes the regulator along with other stuff. A leaking injector should be accompanied by some black soot on start up. I would also think you would have some drivability issues and possibly a code. A leaking injector is very possible. On a cold start, cycle the ignition key on to off several times. Each time you do that, the pump runs for 2 seconds. If you do that and get instant start, it's a good bet you have a pressure issue. The question is, where's the pressure going. My money is on the check valve/regulator. Maybe one of the techs will chime in and give you correct information.

Thanks. I will give it a try. ...and you are correct about the fuel pump not being replaced with the recall. It is just the plastic cover that is replaced.

 

Reading through this thread, the only solution that rings true is the check valve. I had a fuel pump with that problem on a Saab. You're having to restore proper line pressure while turning over the engine. This is fairly easy to check. When you turn the key the fuel pump will always turn on but it will turn back off if the CPU doesn't receive a signal verifying that the engine is turning. This is to prevent gas from being sprayed from ruptured lines after a collision.

Do this: Turn the key on. You may can actually hear the pump start up and then stop. Regardless, do it a time or three and only THEN turn to the starter position. If the car starts normally, you have verified the faulty check valve condition.