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on the 2012TE, put the amp meter on the alternator wire.
maxed out at 110 AMP, spiked to 118 a couple times.
Test was for 10 mins with everything going, heated seats, high beams, flashers, dashcam, AC front and rear on full, TV, heated mirrors, open and close power sliding doors and hatch, sunroof.
Subwoofer and stereo. amplifier wire at the battery ,15-30 amps depending on the volume levels.
AMP draw at the alternator seemed to be marginally affected by the SUB, assume the AGM Batt played a part in that and having some reserve power left.

idle with nothing but the engine running, it used a steady 31 AMP.
 
I would just add that for all of the trouble to remove the old alternator, a reman Denso for $140 on RockAuto is well worth it. Removal is much easier if you remove the windshield washer tube completely. Mr Ranger has the best video on this! Took me 1 hour to clear the area...and had to use a pry bar to get the alternator out. Had to slightly bend the AC line too. 1 hour to put everything back. For 2 hours worth of work, go Denso and move on. GOOD LUCK...
 
Those are custom made to fit. You'd have to contact them. One thing to consider is that if you double the output of the alternator yet you leave the same size wire from the B+ terminal on the alternator to the fuse box and to the battery, you could have too much current for that wire and cause damage.

That said, when I've tested alternators on these vehicles I haven't been able to get more than 100A of load, and that's with seat heaters, and everything I can find to turn on. If you get a Denso brand standard alternator you will have no issues. 130A is a decent sized alternator already.

I have found the parts store remans don't put out more than 80A even they they say they are 130A alternators.
would you need to make any wiring adjustments if you got a denso 150 amp instead of the 130amp standard. Would 150 amp speed up the charging process?
 
The general rule is at idle, an alternator provides half it's rated amps due to rpm. Now for the guys with the tricked out super bass 1000 Watt stereo systems this is a problem. Half your OEM althernator's 130 Amps is 65A. 65 Amps times 13.5 volts DC equals 877.5 Watts. Not nearly enough to run said stereo system, so a number of specialty builders of high power 225 - 250 Amp alternators have sprung up - brand new, no core required, and pricey (Like $400 - $450 depending.) A 250 amp alternator will provide 1,620 Watts when the vehicle is standing still. Almost your home's 15 Amp wall circuit at idle. You do need to upgrade some wiring to the battery.
This works for the high powered stereo, and it also is speced right for the installation of a 1500 Watt - 3000 Watt DC to AC 120V inverter, useful for construction with power tools off the grid, or when camping to power a microwave or coffee maker, or you could power a small band in the middle of a field.
It can also work for building mini camper vans, turn on the engine to run a microwave or to when the sun don't shine recharge a solar panel/deep cycle battery system. (I have a 1260 watt hour Eco Flow Delta solar generator which fast charges on it's AC side in 1.7 hours, but it needs at least 1200 watts AC - thus my interest in alternators that can support high watt inverters.) Almost every built-in 110/115/120 volt power outlet in current vehicles are 150 Watts max. A couple of exceptions are certain Ford trucks typically used on farms and construction sites, and the new Toyota hybrid Sienna XLE and above which run a 1500 Watt AC power outlet off the High voltage 280V traction battery - as well as a 1500 Watt stereo system! (optional.)
These guys build a number of replacement high Amp alternators for most, but not all Hondas.
 
The general rule is at idle, an alternator provides half it's rated amps due to rpm. Now for the guys with the tricked out super bass 1000 Watt stereo systems this is a problem. Half your OEM althernator's 130 Amps is 65A. 65 Amps times 13.5 volts DC equals 877.5 Watts. Not nearly enough to run said stereo system, so a number of specialty builders of high power 225 - 250 Amp alternators have sprung up - brand new, no core required, and pricey (Like $400 - $450 depending.) A 250 amp alternator will provide 1,620 Watts when the vehicle is standing still. Almost your home's 15 Amp wall circuit at idle. You do need to upgrade some wiring to the battery.
This works for the high powered stereo, and it also is speced right for the installation of a 1500 Watt - 3000 Watt DC to AC 120V inverter, useful for construction with power tools off the grid, or when camping to power a microwave or coffee maker, or you could power a small band in the middle of a field.
It can also work for building mini camper vans, turn on the engine to run a microwave or to when the sun don't shine recharge a solar panel/deep cycle battery system. (I have a 1260 watt hour Eco Flow Delta solar generator which fast charges on it's AC side in 1.7 hours, but it needs at least 1200 watts AC - thus my interest in alternators that can support high watt inverters.) Almost every built-in 110/115/120 volt power outlet in current vehicles are 150 Watts max. A couple of exceptions are certain Ford trucks typically used on farms and construction sites, and the new Toyota hybrid Sienna XLE and above which run a 1500 Watt AC power outlet off the High voltage 280V traction battery - as well as a 1500 Watt stereo system! (optional.)
These guys build a number of replacement high Amp alternators for most, but not all Hondas.
bizarre how they skipped right over the gen 4 odyssey.
 
bizarre how they skipped right over the gen 4 odyssey.
Other guys out there as well...
 
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