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Honda Engine Misfire Settlement Extension

143K views 143 replies 45 participants last post by  thscott  
Just get it fixed under extended warranty and then put the VCMuzzler on and don't give it another thought. It's $90 well spent. There is no common denominator. Some run into a problem and others don't. It depends on how the vehicle is driven, too. I had 135K on my van and didn't have any issues before I put the Muzzler on. I've got 163K on now and still no issues. Mine is too old for the extended warranty to apply so preventing it is important to me.
 
+1 ^^^

I've seen tensioners failing on the Gen4 at 75-80K. Make 100% sure you're getting a new hydraulic tensioner. They're making about $500 on your timing belt for about 10 minutes extra work. I think the dealers love this warranty extension. They're getting the timing belt job at the same time and getting paid by both Honda and the customer to do it.
 
I have a question. I had the full TSB done on my 2010 Odyssey, inluding the piston ring fix, a couple of months ago. It took 7 years to get to that point. Is it reasonably safe to assume that the fix and software patch will rid this problem once and for all?
No. The only way to be sure it doesn't happen again is to get the VCMuzzler. If you just had it done, now is a really good time to get one and install it.
 
I'm all too familiar with what you're saying. I'm pretty much a diy guy and know they are raping me. The timing belt portion is about 250 in labor, rest parts including a new tensioner and water pump. Initially they told me they were changing rings 1-4, but after a.couple days they called back and said it will be rings 1-3, if I wanted to do 4-6, would be an additional 2k, I politely said no while pointing my middle finger at the phone. So this was a week ago since everything's been done. Two days ago I get a cell, pulled codes showing a p3400, rear oil pressure switch. Called my service advisor, said it's unrelated and not under any extended warranty, $50 to look at it, then parts and labor. I again politely said no while giving him a middle finger. The part costs $30 online plus a couple bucks for an o ring. Haven't changed it out yet. I'm hoping this will be the last of it for a while.
How do you know what part it is? A code does NOT indicate a part to change. You haven't told us anywhere what year and trim level you have but P3400 is Valve Pause System stuck off Bank 1. First thing to do is check your oil level. That code can be thrown due to low oil pressure caused by low oil level or a dirty oil system (screen, passages, bad pump, etc.,) a faulty rocker arm oil control solenoid, faulty rear rocker arm oil pressure switch, or a wiring or connector issue between those components and the PCM. Simply changing out the oil pressure switch, assuming you have the right switch, has about a 15-20% chance of solving your issue. You might get lucky but there's an 80% chance you are probably just throwing parts at a problem and won't fix it.
 
I think i'm about to join the club with this issue. I love the van, have just shy of 80K miles on a 2012 and it's been great. Last night my wife was coming home from work and both lights came on and I figured they had to be checked but safe to drive home. I took it in to get scanned at a autoparts store and came back with the cylinder misfire codes. He said there were multiple codes, but they were generic and he couldn't be sure why. One was the P0302 i'm certain of, and he said there were a couple other codes as well related to the same thing.

So I came home and did a little research and found this thread. I did notice a slight change in the start up and while running. Not a big difference, to say it was rough would be an overstatement, but I could tell it was different. Just slightly. Dealer opens at 830 so i'll be bringing it by then. I'm glad i'm not alone on this .
You've been a member here since 2015 and haven't installed a VCMuzzler or MaxMuzzler? As long as the misfire codes are P0300-P0304 then the issue is covered under extended warranty. A P0305 or P0306 is not covered and is a different problem. Order one of the Muzzlers and get that VCM disabled as soon as you get your vehicle back from being repaired.
 
You'd need to press for it. Not doing #4 saves them pulling the front cylinder head, thus saving them a lot of extra work. The techs don't get paid as much for warranty work as normal work so they want to get it done as quickly as possible. Personally, I would do #4 based on the codes that were set and the condition of the plug on #4.
 
Yes, you could have accidentally erased the codes. Also, if you drive enough and the problem is not occurring the codes will clear on their own. You'll have to wait until it happens again.
 
Hi all, this thread has been very informative! Unfortunately, I’m just now discovering this issue. We bought a 2008 Ody in 2015, so I never received a notice from Honda about the settlement, and just now am getting a cylinder 3 misfire code. So based on everything I’m seeing, our van is out of the extended warranty period. Does anyone know what Honda is saying to customers when the vehicle is out of the warranty period? Are they offering a discount on the service since it’s at least a known issue?

Should I take it to the dealer and see what they say about it, and risk $150 diagnostic fee, plus a list of everything else they’ll tell me I need to do? Or do I just replace the plugs myself, and put VCM muzzler on and forget about everything else?

Our van only has 95k miles on it, which is probably why I’m just now having this issue.

Any suggestions are welcome!
That's what I'd do. Replace the plugs and put a Muzzler on it ASAP and you will probably be just fine. Don't wait, though.
 
First time post: Boy do I wish I had researched you guys before I spent over 1500.00 having all of my coils replaced, and a new computer on my 2012 HO. I have since taken my car into the dealership to have the fix done and I’m picking up my van today. My question is, is there any way to have the previous repair work done reimbursed? It was work done by our local mechanic who would simply read the code my vechicle put out and repair that issue. He was obviously unaware of the settlement. As I’m writing this I’m realizing that if any reimbursement were to come it would be from my own mechanic. If he had looked up the codes he might have found the information provided here.
We are having the tension belt, timing belt and the other two spark plugs replaced so another 745.00 makes this one expensive month for car repairs!!
Ok, so once I get the van back, next step seems to be to buy the muffler. Thank you for your help.
You can't get reimbursed from Honda for a repair that wasn't needed. Why would your mechanic replace working coils? On a guess? "Mechanics" today need to be more than just someone who reads a code and replaces a part. Checking for service bulletins is one of the first things I do on most any car with an issue that is not obvious to me. Your mechanic replaced coils and a computer when nothing was wrong with them. Your mechanic needs more training.
 
Facing your issue today. Misfiring like Ray Charles, drunk at the gun range. I'll try to keep this brief. Bought this 2008 Ody EX-L in April of 2016 from a Honda dealer. Had 104K on it. I had driven for approximately 2000 miles and the oil light came on. Dipstick showed a drop of oil at the very tip. Brought it back saying WTF! In the dealerships defense they were straight forward and gave me the service history on the car from the time they obtained it. NOTE: I am the third owner. They told me that they had done some work prior to my purchase and described it as a short block rebuild and the work was under warranty. They agreed to uphold the warranty though I was NOT the owner at the time. Honda paid for the previous work and the work the dealer was to perform on my car (which was a ring replacement). From there I did more research and discovered the complete sham Honda pulled on what should have been a massive recall.
Now to current. After all that work, 50K miles later they want to charge me $3,400 to REPLACE THE RINGS...AGAIN!!!
Honda say, so sorry. You no entitled to anything. Dealership says, we can give you a 10% discount.
Word to the wise. If you have this vehicle you should part ways ASAP. The rings weren't the only unscheduled item. On my third alternator and second battery. This van is so gone from my world.
NOTE: I have been a lifetime Honda Acura buyer and NEVER had problems like this. Good luck.
You signed up on this forum in August of 2016. Have you not read anything here since then? Installing a VCM defeat device (i.e. VCMuzzler, MaxMuzzler, VCMTuner, etc.) will prevent, and often reverse, the oil burning and plug fouling. New plugs and a VCM defeat device and most likely the problems will go away. $100 and problem is solved unless it's been too long and too much damage is done. The new rings and plugs is only a temporary fix.

My guess is the reason you're on the third alternator is because someone has put on cheap Chinese reman alternators when the first one failed (usually around the 100-150K range.) If you put on a Denso (the OEM brand) reman you will replace it once and be done. If you're using Carquest, Duralast, or any other parts house brand ramans you will replace them numerous times due to cheap aftermarket junk. You're blaming Honda for this when it's not Honda's fault.
 
I did purchase the VCM device, but it WAS too late. After only 40K miles, too late. I have it in place now and I'm STILL burning oil after a complete piston ring replacement.
There are other reasons an engine can burn oil aside from VCM-caused stuck/dirty rings.
 
And you guessed wrong. All my work has been done at the dealer.
You've had three alternators in two years from the same dealer? Something doesn't smell right. I've never seen reports like this when Denso remans are used. You need to go somewhere else for your maintenance.
 
You may have missed my comment regarding recent replacement of the piston rings. I have 100 miles on the new set of rings.
100 miles? I'd reserve judgment until the rings have seated in. It takes at least 500 miles to break in an engine, which is essentially what you're doing. Once you get some miles on it and the rings seat in then post back with your oil consumption.
 
Why don't you try replacing the plugs and then install a VCMTunerII and see if the issue reverses itself. I'd sure try it before shelling out for an overhaul. Most of the time disabling the VCM will clean up the rings and reverse it.
 
Hopefully, you at least take the advice from here and disable the VCM so it doesn't happen again after you shelled out for an engine overhaul.

Install the VCMTunerII and you'll never have the issue again. If you leave it as is, it will happen again.
 
Most of the time this issue can be resolved with new plugs and a Muzzler without the overhaul. The rings will often clean themselves up once the cylinders fire all the time. I've seen it numerous times.