I can't remember if the check engine light was on. My scanner tool pulled no codes, but I found out yesterday that Autoenginuity is not supporting 2013's yet (till November), so it may not be reading codes that are there and I was on a 2009 version (will be updating to 2011 version before next try). Beyond that I have to pay for an update. It should have still read generic codes though if any were present.
The immobilizer brake code is still working. I verified that last night. I put my stethoscope on an injector and I can hear it actuating while cranking after entering the brake code. It does not actuate if you crank without entering the code. I can also smell fuel and see some fumes when I took the intake tube off the throttle body.
I did only start the engine once. The van has never been driven.
The motor is not hydrolocked. It turns over fine. It was running when I shut it off. The oil was just milky when I checked it after the first start, so it needed to be flushed. I immediately drained it. Any water in the oil was just sitting at the bottom of the oil pan this whole time (under the oil), but then stirred up on the first start. Checking the oil prior, it looked perfect and new because everything was settled. This won't hydrolock it. Hydrolock is when water is on the combustion side and the pistons cant compress it and the engine will not turn over unless something breaks.
I did not run it for more than a minute or even bring it to operating temp because I had not replaced my cooling fans yet (don't feel smooth so I am changing them). It was not full of water or anything. When I drained the fluids about the right amount came out. It did have some water in though because it emulsified on the first run and made the oil milky. Like I said though it was not ran long and immediately drained. It really should not have hurt anything. It was still lubricating.
At this point I am down to the computer not firing the plugs at the right time for some reason, or there is a mechanical issue with the motor (turns over smooth and does not make any unusual noises.
My compression checker did not have the tiny 10mm plug adapter, but I picked one up last night, so I will be checking that and eliminating or confirming a mechanical issue. The timing marks on the cams and crank appear to be spot on. I thought that if a bearing or something in the timing belt circuit was stuck or something it might have jumped time, but I don't think so.
My next step is compression check and trying to see if there are codes my scanner did not pull and verifying the check engine light. It has to be engine spark control related or mechanical at this point. I know the fuel is not the issue. I also don't see how the PCM would be deliberately not working since the immobilizer code is still working and the battery power has been pulled many times. I was thinking at one time the computer may have let it run once, stored a code or had a problem and now will not run, but on every other car I ever worked on, the PCM starts from scratch once the battery is pulled for awhile. So, I don't think this would be the case, but who knows, maybe this PCM has built in memory and has to be reset by the dealer......wish I had the Honda MVIC. This would be easy.