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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I can't remember if the check engine light was on. My scanner tool pulled no codes, but I found out yesterday that Autoenginuity is not supporting 2013's yet (till November), so it may not be reading codes that are there and I was on a 2009 version (will be updating to 2011 version before next try). Beyond that I have to pay for an update. It should have still read generic codes though if any were present.

The immobilizer brake code is still working. I verified that last night. I put my stethoscope on an injector and I can hear it actuating while cranking after entering the brake code. It does not actuate if you crank without entering the code. I can also smell fuel and see some fumes when I took the intake tube off the throttle body.

I did only start the engine once. The van has never been driven.

The motor is not hydrolocked. It turns over fine. It was running when I shut it off. The oil was just milky when I checked it after the first start, so it needed to be flushed. I immediately drained it. Any water in the oil was just sitting at the bottom of the oil pan this whole time (under the oil), but then stirred up on the first start. Checking the oil prior, it looked perfect and new because everything was settled. This won't hydrolock it. Hydrolock is when water is on the combustion side and the pistons cant compress it and the engine will not turn over unless something breaks.

I did not run it for more than a minute or even bring it to operating temp because I had not replaced my cooling fans yet (don't feel smooth so I am changing them). It was not full of water or anything. When I drained the fluids about the right amount came out. It did have some water in though because it emulsified on the first run and made the oil milky. Like I said though it was not ran long and immediately drained. It really should not have hurt anything. It was still lubricating.

At this point I am down to the computer not firing the plugs at the right time for some reason, or there is a mechanical issue with the motor (turns over smooth and does not make any unusual noises.

My compression checker did not have the tiny 10mm plug adapter, but I picked one up last night, so I will be checking that and eliminating or confirming a mechanical issue. The timing marks on the cams and crank appear to be spot on. I thought that if a bearing or something in the timing belt circuit was stuck or something it might have jumped time, but I don't think so.

My next step is compression check and trying to see if there are codes my scanner did not pull and verifying the check engine light. It has to be engine spark control related or mechanical at this point. I know the fuel is not the issue. I also don't see how the PCM would be deliberately not working since the immobilizer code is still working and the battery power has been pulled many times. I was thinking at one time the computer may have let it run once, stored a code or had a problem and now will not run, but on every other car I ever worked on, the PCM starts from scratch once the battery is pulled for awhile. So, I don't think this would be the case, but who knows, maybe this PCM has built in memory and has to be reset by the dealer......wish I had the Honda MVIC. This would be easy.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
I updated my scan tool software and still no generic OBD II codes present. However, with the key in position II the MIL light does not go out like the manual says it should after a couple seconds or upon starting (which it will not do). I suspect there are some codes that only a Honda scan tool can pull or if I pay for the Honda enhancements for mine. So, who knows, this thing could fire right up once it gets the Honda MVIC hooked to it and all the modules properly programmed (Multi-function in drivers fuse panel, Airbag module, ACM?, Immobilizer, & keys, Engine computer if updates needed, and whatever else). I am going to finish putting it all back together and tow it to the dealer I guess.
 
It seems to me that I've seen it somewhere in another thread, or in another Honda forum, that the brake code that dealer gives you, is either one time use or one day use thing - can't recall exactly. The main purpose of it is to let you start the engine and drive to the dealer right away.
If you have used it already, you need to get another one from them on the day you'll be driving there.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
I dont think so. I got it to run again today. I am still diagosing the problem......
The code never changes either. I have gotten it from different dealers days apart and it is the same. It still works. I did a few things today to narrow down my problems. I need to get some new plugs and take another compression check.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
I confirmed tonight that the immobilizer kills spark as well as fuel. I also confirmed that the brake code does not change and still works. I tested all of my plugs and wiring tonight, but they would only fire if the brake code was used.

I also found my problem.....bad motor with low compression. 1 cc of oil in each cylinder and clean the plugs and it started again. It would not start a second time. The plugs always come out soaked with oil. Cylinders are running 80 to 120 psi, even after running it for awhile and letting things clean out.

So, I am in the market for a motor now :( It's a shame because this one only has 4 miles on it and I was told it did not get water in it, which it did and ruined it. I should have been done with the van this week, everything else is back to perfect new condition.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
It was not hydrolocked and I did not buy it from the dealer. They do not sell flood cars. Their insurance companies do. It got salt water in the cylinder apparently and it just sat in there eating away because no one cared untill I got it. Unfortunatly it was advertised as no water getting into the engine. So, now I have to deal with that. If it had been flushed out right away it would have been fine. I bought it from a rebuilder dealer that advertised it this way, so I have contacted them. Hopefully they will make good in some way.....

Hydrolock - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 
If it was not hydrolocked (by the way, yes, I know what that means), I don't see how it can lose that much compression just by sitting in salt water. I mean I understand that it will corrode the insides of the cylinder and I understand that it would not be good, but how does it lose over half of the psi in a compression test just having been sitting in salt water? It's hard to believe that much metal has been corroded away. Water in the cylinder forcing it to pop a leak would seem more likely.

In any event, I guess whether hydrolocked or not is a moot point. What's done is done. Can I ask how much you got the van for? Must have been a really good deal for you to go through with the purchase knowing it was flooded.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
It was a good deal considering my labor is free to me. Saved myself nearly 18k or so and I used all new parts to make it just like new again. The motor is going to eat into this though and was not expected.
I am picking up a borescope tonight so I can look inside :) It takes pics and videos too. I have to decide on repairing or replacing it.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I looked around inside with a borescope last night. I will pull the heads off next. It appears that some water got in the cylinders, but that may be it. The cams and rockers and stuff are perfectly new looking. The combustion side of the valves had some rust spots on them, but they may be ok. The seat area looked pretty clean still. I think the main problem is some pitting on the cylinder walls though and I can see where the rings were sitting.

There may still be hope to rescue the 4 mile motor if the crank looks ok, and I think there is a good chance it will. I think the issue may be isolated to the combustion chamber only. I may be able to get by with some honing and a set of rings or just pistons rings and a bore. We will see once I get it tore down a bit more and drop the pan.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Runs perfect with a new motor and the brake code works every time. I still have not gone to the dealer. Trans is messed up too. Ordered a new one today. Stinks that I have to drop the cradle again, but I think I can do it in a couple hours now. Everything has to drop out the bottom in these to change the motor or trans.
 
Runs perfect with a new motor and the brake code works every time. I still have not gone to the dealer. Trans is messed up too. Ordered a new one today. Stinks that I have to drop the cradle again, but I think I can do it in a couple hours now. Everything has to drop out the bottom in these to change the motor or trans.
So you put a new motor in? Do you have do to the brake code everytime you start it? I'm a totally novice when it comes to this stuff.... But I am intrigued. What trim level is your van?
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
Yes. I replaced the motor. It was not worth fixing the original once i figured the cost.
Yes, until I can drive to the dealer, the brake code has to be entered for each start.
Mine is an EXL-RES with Leather.
 
I sure hope after all this work it is worth it. In other words, I hope you got a good enough deal on the van to make it worthwhile. If anything, this has been a very informative thread, I appreciate the updates.
 
I am also having a problem with my 2005 honda odyssey starting. It starts and then won't start, says car has been immobilized. I had to have new key made at honda and they said they had to reprogram the ignition. Since they did this my car has been giving me problems starting. Any advice will be apppreciated
 
Is it possible to reset the immobilizer without towing to a dealer?I have a 2013 Odyssey I am repairing and replaced a bunch of electrical parts. The van won't start and the green key light is flashing. The immobilizer is shutting off the fuel. The key Fob is working for the locks, tailgate opening etc. I think it is just a matter of a reset of some sort. I don't want to tow this thing 50 miles to a dealer just so they can hook to it and push a button on their computer. Is there a way to reset this manually?
The fix is easy, connect a battery charger to your car to maintain a continuous 12 volts on the system. Leave the ignition switch in the on position for ten minutes. The immobilizer light should go off after ten minutes. If it does, the immobilizer has been reset and the car will start. You must turn the ignition off then start the car normally. If the immobilizer light doesn't stop flashing, leave your car on for one hour and repeat. If necessary, you may need to do this for two hours. If it still doesnt work, call a Locksmith and ask if he has a VAG tool for Jettas. He can reset the fault with the VAG tools at a fraction of the expense of the dealer. You dont need to recode the key.
 
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