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What should I do?

  • Bite the bullet, pay the guy what he wants.

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Discussion starter · #41 ·
That's CRAZY money. Here in Maine we can use aftermarket cats but I know you're in CA...but still. INSANE prices. I would definitely get multiple quotes and start with the cheaper stuff first. I'd happily buy your van and if you drive it out here to Portland, I'll even buy you a return airline ticket!😃
That's funny because I'm actually looking at a seasonal job in Maine right now. Will let you know!
 
Not sure where you are located, but in California the aftermarket cats will likely fail bi-annual SMOG inspection. If the inspector looks for the EO or CARB plates and they're not there, you're boned anyway. And from what I've seen, the stock heat shields don't fit on the aftermarket Odyssey converters.

The aftermarket cats utilize a reduced amount of rare-Earth metals and will likely not get the NOX levels down to an acceptable level. Us NSX guys are struggling with this in California, as our cars are getting older. Many guys install aftermarket cats only to find they perform (SMOG-wise) WORSE than their factory cats with 100k miles did.
Agree!
Most people don't have a clue about CA smog inspection requirement.
If the aftermarket CAT models are not listed on CA government website, they are NOT CA certified. It does not matter whether the aftermarket CATs have tags saying that they are certified.
Like I said earlier, if you don't know what you are doing; let the muffler shops handle it for you. Then, the burden is on them to get you certified cats and pass CA smog inspection.

You give up many of your constitutional rights to live in CA. They don't call it "Commiefornia" for nothing.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Alright, here's a little update, everyone.

I went to a shop in Santa Cruz and they cleared the codes. The misfires weren't coming back up, but they did find a bolt missing on the mass airflow sensor, so they replaced that and tightened it up. They also did an oil change and it seems to be running alright now. No engine codes after 2 1/2 hours of highway driving.

As to the "Eco" mode VCM system, no, it isn't muzzled, yet. I just learned about that issue from this forum a few days ago, so I will be looking into getting the part to fix that. Any recommendations?

As I said before, it may still end up needing a valve adjustment at some point. If so, I will be back to the forum (and Youtube) for advice.

Thank you thank you.
 
Get some Upper cylinder lubricant. I use lucas, but I'm sure there are others that work good. This will help your cylinder walls from scoring.
I went with vcmtuner2, but you have to order the day or even hour they become available, and have to wait for them to make and send it to you.
I went with vcmtuner2 since it can be used in every state, and is compliant. Easy to install, and there is no adjustments needing to be made on it ever. You can also install a kill switch to turn it off.
 
Alright, here's a little update, everyone.

I went to a shop in Santa Cruz and they cleared the codes. The misfires weren't coming back up, but they did find a bolt missing on the mass airflow sensor, so they replaced that and tightened it up. They also did an oil change and it seems to be running alright now. No engine codes after 2 1/2 hours of highway driving.

As to the "Eco" mode VCM system, no, it isn't muzzled, yet. I just learned about that issue from this forum a few days ago, so I will be looking into getting the part to fix that. Any recommendations?

As I said before, it may still end up needing a valve adjustment at some point. If so, I will be back to the forum (and Youtube) for advice.

Thank you thank you.
Congrats on saving $6,000. I hope you never go back to that bozo mechanic that was ripping you off telling you needed new, over priced cats.
Definitely muzzle your VCM and perhaps have 6 new spark plugs installed.
You should be good to go.
 
Alright, here's a little update, everyone.

I went to a shop in Santa Cruz and they cleared the codes. The misfires weren't coming back up, but they did find a bolt missing on the mass airflow sensor, so they replaced that and tightened it up. They also did an oil change and it seems to be running alright now. No engine codes after 2 1/2 hours of highway driving.

As to the "Eco" mode VCM system, no, it isn't muzzled, yet. I just learned about that issue from this forum a few days ago, so I will be looking into getting the part to fix that. Any recommendations?

As I said before, it may still end up needing a valve adjustment at some point. If so, I will be back to the forum (and Youtube) for advice.

Thank you thank you.
Get the VCM muzzler from here: PREORDER - VCMTUNER II - Advanced - 2007+ for Honda Acura 3.5L I-VTEC Disable VCM / ECO mode
 
I sold my 07 last year to a friend, it wouldnt snog cuz 1 cat had tge code for below efficiency. CARB compliant catcl was $2200.
I went to autozone picked up the spark plug anti foulers drilled em out then got em dirty and wet left em outside for a few days to make em less shiny, installed em and passed smog like a champ.
Every few months he gets an intermittent code but it goes away
They might look under, most of the time they dont. $12 vs $2200... Hmm.
 
Valve adjustment due at 150k or earlier. They all need it, you wont notice it running badly but the exhaust valves get tight and can damage them. Its not cheap because its quite a bit of work, especially if you dont get the valve cover seal right on the back one the first time. I would do that and the timing belt again cuz Im poor. Approach it with confidence and humility its doable.
 
I have a 2007 Honda Odyssey. Check engine codes are as follows:

  • P0420: Catalytic converter system, bank 1 - efficiency below threshold
  • P0430: Catalytic converter system, bank 2 - efficiency below threshold
  • P0455: Evaporative emission (EVAP) system - large leak detected
  • P0300: Random/multiple cylinder(s) - misfire detected
  • P0306, P0305, P0304, P0302, P0301: Cylinders 6, 5, 4, 2, and 1 - misfire detected
The car is running decently for now, I just take it slow getting up to speed and going up hills. It's not lurching or sputtering. I asked a local mechanic shop that I like to quote me labor and parts for new catalytic converters. This is what they gave me:

  • Labor (Remove and replace both catalytic converters and components.) : $1,199.25
  • Honda Catalytic Converter 18190-RGL-A00 Left (Radiator Side) Core $30: $2,034.15
  • Honda Catalytic Converter 18290-RGL-A00 Right (Firewall Side) Core $30: $1,416.91
  • Honda Exhaust Gasket (Exhaust Manifold to Catalytic Converter) x2: $44.80
  • Honda Exhaust Gasket (Catalytic Converter to Pipe) x2: $57.00
  • Honda Heat Shields (Radiator Side) x2: $163.63
  • Honda Heat Shields (Firewall Side) x2: $153.50
  • Honda Nuts x6: $21.60
  • Honda Bolts x8: $203.20
  • NTK Air Fuel Ratio Sensor, Upstream x2: $604.74
  • NTK Oxygen Sensors (Left and Right) x2: $193.97
Subtotal: $6,092.75
Est. Tax: $428.18
Job Total: $6,520.93

I like the car and would prefer to keep it. I know that catalytic converters are expensive in California. But obviously, for that quoted price, I could buy a newer used Odyssey and just try to sell this one or scrap it. But I just bought the thing less than a year ago. So that sucks.

Does that price seem reasonable (for California)? Should I just buy another used Odyssey somewhere?

Anyone want to buy an Odyssey with bad cats?

Thank you.
The first question is did the shop diagnose the problem or did you diagnose the problem and based on your diagnosis ask them to change parts? Personally I would have let them diagnose the problem and then give you a quote. But based on the codes you shared I would try the easy stuff myself. You do not mention mileage, but a 2007 would probably have a lot of miles on it. If you have never changed the plugs, I would start there. Get some NGKs from Rockauto and swap them in. Clear the codes and see if the misfires go away. If they do not go away and stay consistently in the same cylinders, swap a bad cylinder coil with a good cylinder coil. If the misfire moves, you know you need new coils.

Next thing to do is check the evap system. Make sure all the hoses are good and not cracked or disconnected. I am not familiar with the system in this Honda, but most systems have a solenoid that opens and closes to let the vapors get into the intake system, check that the solenoid is working properly. Get that system working properly. The reason you want to get those fixed first is that both of those systems failing to work properly can be causing a rich condition to dump fuel into the exhaust and clog the cats.

Next thing to check are the oxygen sensors. Those are what the computer uses to determine if the cats are working properly. So I would replace those. Again, source them from rock auto, they are much cheaper. Swap them out and then see if you are still get the cat con DTCs. If yes, at this point I would consider getting after market cat con units. Just make sure they have CARB numbers, or whatever is required in CA to make sure you are compliant.

If this is too much trouble, sell/scrap it. When shopping for a replacement, you now know you should check for those codes before you buy.
 
I just did a valve job on my 05 Touring with 276k and both front cats looked like new inside. If you haven't muzzled your VCM, that should be the first thing. As others have stated, the misfires and an unmuzzled VCM system will kill your cats.
Also, one further point of reference: I am 60 years old, have been driving for 45 years, have owned over 40 vehicles, almost every one of which has been purchased used, and I have never replaced a catalytic converter. I'm not saying that they don't need replacement at some point, but I've had several vehicles over 300K and many over 200K...and never replaced a cat.
 
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Also, one further point of reference: I am 60 years old, have been driving for 45 years, have owned over 40 vehicles, almost every one of which has been purchased used, and I have never replaced a catalytic converter. I'm not saying that they don't need replacement at some point, but I've had several vehicles over 300K and many over 200K...and never replaced a cat.
Theres no reason to dismiss your personal experience, but how many of those 40 vehicles were unmuzzled honda V6s with VCM... If one considers the possible detrimental effects of this ill conceived system, its pretty obvious there are risks to the cats not present in most other vehicles. If it fouls plugs it might foul cats, no?
 
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Theres no reason to dismiss your personal experience, but how many of those 40 vehicles were unmuzzled honda V6s with VCM... If one considers the possible detrimental effects of this ill conceived system, its pretty obvious there are risks to the cats not present in most other vehicles. If it fouls plugs it might foul cats, no?
The whole point of the statement is that when not poisoned, the cats can last a very long time.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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