[mariehdoucet]

There are only a few things that happen with the door switch when you open the passenger or driver's door:
1) the curtesy light on the door goes on.
2) the interior lights come on (unless the interior light switch has been switched off)
3) the corresponding door light illuminates in the instrument cluster - only when the ignition switch is on.

I went out to the car to verify #2- if you switch the the interior light switch to Off, the door light stays on when the door is open.

hi guys! Thanks for your help. I disconnected theproblematic door switch and now my dashboard is fine! Everything is like a charm. I really appreciate your precious help!!! Happy hollidays ! Myhood switch jumper is working well too. !!

 

[mariehdoucet]

Other than the door open indicator light being on are there any other issues? Such as the door randomly unlocking while you are driving?

Are you having anymore random alarms going off?

I don't have random alarm going on anymore... thanks to you and the others! The doors couldn't lock while i why driving because the door light was on. Since i disconnected the problematic door switch, it locks automatic after couple pf seconds driving. It is weird because even if i changed the door switch, it didn't work out. So I will leave it unplugged but sealed. I guess i will be able to put back the indoor light fuse since the dashboard is free of any signs. Anyways thank you again!!

 

[hpark21]

I don't have random alarm going on anymore... thanks to you and the others! The doors couldn't lock while i why driving because the door light was on. Since i disconnected the problematic door switch, it locks automatic after couple pf seconds driving. It is weird because even if i changed the door switch, it didn't work out. So I will leave it unplugged but sealed. I guess i will be able to put back the indoor light fuse since the dashboard is free of any signs. Anyways thank you again!!

So, you KNOW which door this is happening?

Have you tried moving the striker a bit inward to trigger the switch correctly? (It is the metal LOOP thing, loosen the bolts and move it slightly inward toward the interior of the car - not much, maybe start with 1/8" or so)

Taking the switch out seem to just treat the symptom, not the cause of your issue.

 

[WiiMaster]

So, you KNOW which door this is happening?

Have you tried moving the striker a bit inward to trigger the switch correctly? (It is the metal LOOP thing, loosen the bolts and move it slightly inward toward the interior of the car - not much, maybe start with 1/8" or so)

Taking the switch out seem to just treat the symptom, not the cause of your issue.

I believe they have said that even when manually pressing in the switch the symptoms remain, so it doesn't sound like a switch actuation issue.

 

[mariehdoucet]

I believe they have said that even when manually pressing in the switch the symptoms remain, so it doesn't sound like a switch actuation issue.

Exactly, even when i press the door switch (old or new one) the door light in the dashboard does not disappear.

 

[hpark21]

There's only one wire to the door switch. Jumping it is not possible.

really? It is odd.. Should be 2 wires according to this:

I am thinking MAYBE the door switch is NOT making ground correctly then. Maybe there is a wire coming to the switch and the switch being installed will make the ground. Looks like when plunger is pressed, the circuit opens up and when plunger is not pressed the circuit closes which is odd. I wonder whether the switch they replaced was a dud.

 

[WiiMaster]

really? It is odd.. Should be 2 wires according to this:
View attachment 172331

I am thinking MAYBE the door switch is NOT making ground correctly then. Maybe there is a wire coming to the switch and the switch being installed will make the ground. Looks like when plunger is pressed, the circuit opens up and when plunger is not pressed the circuit closes which is odd. I wonder whether the switch they replaced was a dud.

I understood that diagram as one wire, with the "GRN/YEL" referring to one wire that is green and yellow striped.

 

[hpark21]

I understood that diagram as one wire, with the "GRN/YEL" referring to one wire that is green and yellow striped.

I meant 1 wire coming to the switch and you can see the other wire going to the ground but I suspect in this case, the switch itself being mounted on the door panel will use the mounting screw as ground. Like I said, odd thing is that when plunger pops up (door is opened), is when the switch is actually CLOSED making the wire coming to the switch straight to the ground thus system detecting the door is opened. That is why when the person took the switch out, it created permanently open condition (switch is pressed). So, I am thinking that the switch they swapped in was a dud or they did not test the new switch by physically pressing it in all the way with door latch not adjusted correctly.

EDIT: One other possibility is the screw they used was very rusty and did not provide good enough ground. I say they swap the screw used to mount the switch with screw from driver's side to see if the issue moves to the other side.

 

[mariehdoucet]

I meant 1 wire coming to the switch and you can see the other wire going to the ground but I suspect in this case, the switch itself being mounted on the door panel will use the mounting screw as ground. Like I said, odd thing is that when plunger pops up (door is opened), is when the switch is actually CLOSED making the wire coming to the switch straight to the ground thus system detecting the door is opened. That is why when the person took the switch out, it created permanently open condition (switch is pressed). So, I am thinking that the switch they swapped in was a dud or they did not test the new switch by physically pressing it in all the way with door latch not adjusted correctly.

EDIT: One other possibility is the screw they used was very rusty and did not provide good enough ground. I say they swap the screw used to mount the switch with screw from driver's side to see if the issue moves to the other side.

i bought a compatible switch on amazon so you can be right about the switch.I have an absolute zero IQ with cars. It's a miracle i could jumper a hood switch😅 Of course i did not test the switch before fixing it and i used the same screw that was in good shape (no rust on it)

you could be right about the switch because it's not an original but one i bought on amazon with very positive comments... i will have to try

 

[thscott]

i bought a compatible switch on amazon so you can be right about the switch.I have an absolute zero IQ with cars. It's a miracle i could jumper a hood switch😅 Of course i did not test the switch before fixing it and i used the same screw that was in good shape (no rust on it)

you could be right about the switch because it's not an original but one i bought on amazon with very positive comments... i will have to try

You should have bought the genuine Honda switch I linked earlier in post #59. Only $15 if I recall correctly.

 

[mariehdoucet]

You should have bought the genuine Honda switch I linked earlier in post #59. Only $15 if I recall correctly.

Yes but most us website dont ship to Montréal and the Honda website in toronto was 70$ for shipping so i took a chance on amazon. Bad idea. I am going to return it...

 

[hpark21]

Yes but most us website dont ship to Montréal and the Honda website in toronto was 70$ for shipping so i took a chance on amazon. Bad idea. I am going to return it...

Test it first since you took it off anyways. Test with your meter for continuity while plunger is not pressed in. It looks like it should show continuity. The single lead and probably body of the switch. Once continuity is showing, press the plunger to see if it actually disconnects. (continuity broken) If so, then the switch should be working. If not, then either grounding is not happening where you install it - easily tested, just install it and then press the plunger to see if the door open signal goes away - or if manual pressing does work, then my guess is that your door is not pressing it deep enough which means you will have to move the striker a bit inward, if even manually it does not work, then somehow the grounding portion is not working and maybe need to be fixed.

 

[Lizzy_kind]

So as an update to my last post. I have disconnected all my door (four of them), hood, and hatch/tail gate switches and for the past 72 hours. I personally have not had my alarm go off.

So my conclusion for this mess is that one or more of my door switch(s) were acting up. Instead of hunting to find the defective switch or switches. I decided to just replace them with stock, factory, OEM switches at 22 bucks a pop. I know I can get them online for around 6 bucks. I did not want to deal with this alarm again!!! So I hope the OEM ones are of superior quality, and the quality assurance and tolerance to spec are so small that this will fix the problem. I will install them tonight all update in the near furture...

fingers crossed!!!!

Keeping the doors open disables the alarm.

 

[mariehdoucet]

Keeping the doors open disables the alarm.

Yes but the hood jumper is a better option and safer for your car and. belongings in the car

 

[thscott]

Keeping the doors open disables the alarm.

It’s very dangerous to drive with the doors open.

 

[Andy from Malden]

Hi,

A couple of years back, I disconnected the hood switch because my alarm kept going off randomly. Yesterday, I went outside and the battery was drained. I got my other vehicle and jumped the Honda. As soon as I connected the batteries, the alarm started going off. I had to sit there for a minute with the hood open and the alarm blaring before I could start the thing.

Starting it did not make the alarm stop. Closing the doors did not make the alarm stop. Every light on the dash and in the car that was on would dim in time to the honking.

I did not notice the alarm going ff the previous day or night. I think someone would have noticed it. Urban area. Car parked behind house.

So, is the dead battery related to the alarm? I think the battery is 3 years old. What drained the battery and why is the alarm going off when I jump the car? Did something related to the alarm go bad, causing the battery to drain? Does a dead or dying battery cause the alarm to behave funny?

Thank you!

 

[mariehdoucet]

Hi,

A couple of years back, I disconnected the hood switch because my alarm kept going off randomly. Yesterday, I went outside and the battery was drained. I got my other vehicle and jumped the Honda. As soon as I connected the batteries, the alarm started going off. I had to sit there for a minute with the hood open and the alarm blaring before I could start the thing.

Starting it did not make the alarm stop. Closing the doors did not make the alarm stop. Every light on the dash and in the car that was on would dim in time to the honking.

I did not notice the alarm going ff the previous day or night. I think someone would have noticed it. Urban area. Car parked behind house.

So, is the dead battery related to the alarm? I think the battery is 3 years old. What drained the battery and why is the alarm going off when I jump the car? Did something related to the alarm go bad, causing the battery to drain? Does a dead or dying battery cause the alarm to behave funny?

Thank you!

hi Andy,
You said this occured a couple years ago. Do you still have problem with your car? Have you only disconnected the hood switch or you did the hood jumper properly?

 

[kernel]

A couple of years back, I disconnected the hood switch because my alarm kept going off randomly.

Did you also put in a jumper in the connector? Just unplugging it does not disable the alarm.

..the battery was drained. I got my other vehicle and jumped the Honda. As soon as I connected the batteries, the alarm started going off.

Having the alarm go off after jump starting a dead battery is a common occurrence. On my '02 the Owner's Manual stated that the key had to be used in the door to unlock and turn off the alarm. On my '07, using the remote to unlock will work.

Does a dead or dying battery cause the alarm to behave funny?

Yes, which is why my '02 manual had the tip for the alarm hidden in the jump starting section.

hi Andy,
You said this occured a couple years ago. Do you still have problem with your car?

Uh, yes- he said "Yesterday, I went outside and the battery was drained."

 

[thscott]

Hi,

A couple of years back, I disconnected the hood switch because my alarm kept going off randomly. Yesterday, I went outside and the battery was drained. I got my other vehicle and jumped the Honda. As soon as I connected the batteries, the alarm started going off. I had to sit there for a minute with the hood open and the alarm blaring before I could start the thing.

Starting it did not make the alarm stop. Closing the doors did not make the alarm stop. Every light on the dash and in the car that was on would dim in time to the honking.

I did not notice the alarm going ff the previous day or night. I think someone would have noticed it. Urban area. Car parked behind house.

So, is the dead battery related to the alarm? I think the battery is 3 years old. What drained the battery and why is the alarm going off when I jump the car? Did something related to the alarm go bad, causing the battery to drain? Does a dead or dying battery cause the alarm to behave funny?

Thank you!

As said, disconnecting the hood switch connector is not the same as installing a jumper wire to disable the alarm.

You need to install a jumper wire.

Parasitic Battery drain is most often caused by a faulty AC compressor clutch relay or a bad sliding door rear latch.

 

[Andy from Malden]

Thanks for the replies, Marie and Kernel.

My issue is solved. Short story is the rear dome light was left on, draining the battery. Then upon jumping, the alarm sounded Some other thread at this site mentioned that you need to use your key in the door to reset the alarm. Ignition doesn't reset it. So I jumped it and opened the door with a key, waited a minute for the battery to charge. Started it. No alarm.