[GoLowDrew]

Got my Ody back from the dealership for something else. When they inspected the car, they said my bushing(s) are showing some cracking. Bushing are generally $15 to $20 dollars (guessing), and I understand there is labor. Bushings is all he said, verbally.

When I got the estimate (for next time), the cost is $1,250 + tax and fees. Looking at the paperwork, they are replacing the lower control arms.

Are the bushings build into the lower control arms?

Are there Protectants like 303, I can spray on to help prolong it a bit?

TIA

 

[fgina]

what year? sure, parts are cheap. if car not clunking, just keep driving. a lot of labor and requires special machine to press them in.

 

[phattyduck]

Are the bushings build into the lower control arms?

The Honda parts are complete arms (bushings pre-pressed). No separate bushings from Honda. That price is probably mostly parts.

-Charlie

 

[v4forever]

Honda did my lower control arms 9 months ago and they used aftermarket as the OEM were not readily available.
They also used new hardware.
I’m happy with the work and they never said anything about an alignment.
Steers fine and doesn’t pull to one side.

 

[oldskewel]

Probably, it is ...

Front suspension, lower control arms ... the rear compliance bushings are the actual things that are showing cracking. They can show surface cracking while not actually having problems. But they can also wear enough to cause alignment or driving stability issues.

Honda does not sell those bushings separately.

So of course, if the dealer will only use Honda Genuine parts, they have no option other than to replace the whole control arm.

I replaced those bushings recently on my own car (at 145k miles, bushings were not too bad) and my friend's 2006 (same bushings; at almost 200k, he definitely needed them), bought at RockAuto.com for about $10 each.

If you've done anything like this before, the ONLY thing tough about it is to go and get yourself a bushing press of sufficient size. I made a failed research and development project in trying to rent those tools for free at various local auto parts stores, before giving up and buying a full bushing press set on eBay, which made the job as easy as it should be. The $80 capital investment was easier to justify, knowing that I'd be immediately using it on both mine and my friend's cars. And that set is pretty amazing - 5 spindles and about 22 cups, all with 5mm wall.

Those bushings have a diameter of 74mm, so you need one press cup with an ID slightly bigger than that, and another cup with an OD of slightly less than that. This was all done with no need to buy tools back on my '99 Odyssey, which had 65mm bushings; for that size, the standard free-rental tools from PepBoys, etc. will do it.

The front bushings in the control arms never wear out and don't need to be replaced. My ball joints were in great shape, so I renewed the grease in them and left them in there.

Couple of things to get right are:

• press in the new bushings with the same orientation as the originals. They are not rotationally symmetric.
• torque bushing screws with the vehicle suspension at nominal loaded geometry. (same as for almost all suspension bushings)

One bonus surprise I found was that replacing the bushings fixed my alignment to perfectly straight again. Before the replacement, it had been pulling to the right a little. So I crossed the alignment off the todo list, which was an unexpected gift.

 

[Azdude]

When they inspected the car, they said my bushing(s) are showing some cracking.

When I got the estimate (for next time), the cost is $1,250 + tax and fees. Looking at the paperwork, they are replacing the lower control arms.

Only had minor cracking in my front lower control arms, and replacing them got rid of a lot of vibration in the front end, after I replaced with oem axles.

it’s only 3 bolts per lower control arm- very easy to replace once you have the part. Couldn’t get oem parts as out of stock nationwide at $600 each. aftermarket moog is $150 each. So that estimate it aftermarket with $800 labor. I would do it yourself… I paid someone to do them for my old Acura and i want my $900 back after doing it myself in less than 2 hours on the odyssey

 

[2011.2017.odyssey]

I cant keep control arms in the van long enough for the bushings to blow out!

the control arm has to come off to change the bushing anyway, so re/re new part or re/re use part with new bushing plus additional labor.

if you're DIY, explore the bushing only option if you're paying someone.. change the entire part, rebuild the old one and keep it in the box for the next time.

 

[Buddur]

Each control arm I've replaced has been because of the ball joint.

And there are spray protectants that are supposed to make the bushings last longer by keeping the surface from drying out. 303 will certainly work, or any silicon-based lubricant.

 

[Azdude]

Well I still have the Old oem aluminum arms so could try bushing thing, except o trashed the ball joint taking them out.

it was the rear bushings showing a complete tear. Seeing similar in various rear wheel as do doing that in couple weeks.

im a heavyon the brakes andgo heavy lots. Guess will ease up on the braking next 115k

 

[hoosiervan]

What are the symptoms of these going bad? Our 12 EX has 210K on it. Struts and rear shocks/springs have been replaced. Wondering if other suspension should be done. I don't think it rides as well on bumps as it once did.

 

[Daniel_H]

What are the symptoms of these going bad? Our 12 EX has 210K on it. Struts and rear shocks/springs have been replaced. Wondering if other suspension should be done. I don't think it rides as well on bumps as it once did.

I replaced mine at 204k miles shortly after I replaced my struts. The originals were still in. My ball joints were completely shot, and they were popping when hitting larger potholes/railroads, etc. There was also noticeable play in my steering wheel. I'm at 12k miles on aftermarket Moog LCAs and there is still zero play in my steering.

 

[Daniel_H]

I replaced my entire LCAs last year with Moog LCAs, at roughly $90 each on Rockauto, and they come with a 3 year warranty. They are extremely easy to replace (if you have a ball joint separator - I ordered a Gearwrench one on Amazon for $25). It is 2 bolts and a ball joint each side. Using a floor jack and an impact wrench to remove the wheels, it took less than 20 minutes per side from wheel up to wheel down. I'm 12k miles/13 months with them on, and they are still holding up well. As much as I like OEM, at ~$450 each side, I simply couldn't justify the cost.

 

[Azdude]

What are the symptoms of these going bad? Our 12 EX has 210K on it. Struts and rear shocks/springs have been replaced. Wondering if other suspension should be done. I don't think it rides as well on bumps as it once did.

I have noticed the front end absorbs/dampens bumps and holes in the road better with new front lower control arms, although that’s not why I replaced them. I was having severe front end freeway vibrations. Got rid of 70% of the vibrations and could at least drive at 72mph+ without the car beating itself to death.