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Homerquest

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Approaching 93k miles on a 2014 EX and have followed everything on the dashboard maitenanc mider codes. Looking for a maintenance schedule list of items based on mileage and time. Would like to know when code 4 will come up; this includes replacing the spark plugs and inspecting the valve clearance. There is a list in Honda's manual that came with the van but it does not show the mileage or time interval of when this is due. Does anyone know where to get a reference that will show this?
 
MILES97,500 mi101,250 mi105,000 mi108,750 mi112,500 mi
DETAILSDETAILSDETAILSDETAILSDETAILS
Air Filter ElementReplace
Brake Hose/LineInspectInspectInspect
Brakes and Traction ControlInspectInspectInspect
Cabin Air Filter / PurifierReplace
Constant Velocity Joint BootInspectInspectInspect
Coolant
Drive Belt
Engine OilReplaceReplaceReplaceReplaceReplace
Exhaust SystemInspectInspectInspect
Fluid - A/T
FluidsInspectInspectInspect
Fuel Supply LineInspectInspectInspect
Maintenance Required Lamp/IndicatorResetResetResetResetReset
Oil Filter, EngineReplaceReplaceReplace
Parking Brake SystemInspectInspectInspect
Spark PlugReplace
Steering and SuspensionInspectInspectInspect
Timing BeltReplace
TiresRotateRotateRotate
Valve ClearanceInspect


Sorry for the atrocious header contrast, forum stuff won't let me/I don't know how to change it :)
 
As Baser’s chart points out, 105k for spark plugs, valve clearance and timing belt. Timing belt is 105k or 7 years whichever comes first under normal operating conditions.
If you are operating above 100 degrees or or below 40 degrees consistently then the recommended change internal is 60k miles.
 
inspecting the valve clearance
To inspect valve clearance requires 95% of the work to adjust them i.e. about 4 hours labor. It's not a simple look-see kind of inspection.

Valve adjustment should not be necessary before 150K miles.
 
To inspect valve clearance requires 95% of the work to adjust them i.e. about 4 hours labor. It's not a simple look-see kind of inspection
I agree - if you are going to check them, you might as well adjust them since you've already done all the time consuming stuff involved with pulling the intake plenum and removing the valve covers, then rolling the engine over so each cylinder is at TDC, and measuring each one with a feeler gauge. Only adds a minute or two to each valve if you adjust them at that point.
 
Adding this as I should have originally:


NOTE: Connect the HDS to the DLC (CLICK HERE), and monitor ECT SENSOR 1. Adjust the valve clearance only when the engine coolant temperature is less than 100 °F (38 °C).
1. Remove the cylinder head covers (CLICK HERE).
2. Set the No. 1 piston at top dead center (TDC). Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the
No. 1 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
Image

3. Select the correct feeler gauge for the valve clearance you are going to check.
Valve Clearance
Intake:0.20-0.24 mm (0.008-0.009 in)
Exhaust:0.28-0.32 mm (0.011-0.012 in)

REAR
Image

FRONT
Image

4. Insert the feeler gauge (A) between the adjusting screw and the end of the valve stem on the No. 1 cylinder, and slide it back and forth; you should feel a slight amount of drag.
INTAKE
Image

EXHAUST
Image

5. If you feel too much or too little drag, loosen the locknut, and turn the adjusting screw until the drag on the feeler gauge is correct.
INTAKE
Image

EXHAUST
Image

6. While holding the adjusting screw with the screw driver, tighten the locknut, then recheck the clearance. Repeat the adjustment, if necessary.
Specified Torque
No. 1, No. 2, No. 3, and No. 4 cylinders:
20 N·m (2.0 kgf·m, 15 lbf·ft)
Apply new engine oil to the nut threads.
No. 5 and No. 6 cylinders:
14 N·m (1.4 kgf·m, 10 lbf·ft)
Apply new engine oil to the nut threads.


7. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 4 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
Image

8. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 4 cylinder.
9. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 2 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
Image

10. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 2 cylinder.
11. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 5 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
Image

12. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 5 cylinder.
13. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 3 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
Image

14. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 3 cylinder.
15. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise. Align the pointer (A) on the front upper cover with the No. 6 piston TDC mark (B) on the front camshaft pulley.
Image

16. Check and, if necessary, adjust the valve clearance on the No. 6 cylinder.
17. Install the cylinder head covers (CLICK HERE).
 
Sharing a valve lash inspection and adjustment cautionary tale as I'm feeling the pain of not having my valves adjusted on interval. I have two vehicles with a 3.5 V6: a 2008 Honda Accord 155k mi and a 2012 Honda Odyssey 205k mi. I didn't realize the valves needed to be adjusted until the Odyssey got to approximately 145,000 mi. So I had it done at the dealership. I was a motorcycle mechanic in a time when valve adjustment was common and necessary for motorcycles in late 90s so I did a lot of valve adjustments, but hydraulic lifters were the standard for cars (and a lot of motorcycles were moving in that direction too) when I got out of the mechanic ling business. So valve lash inspection and adjustment wasn't even on my radar for my "modern" vehicles (these are my first two Honda four-wheel vehicles). Anyway, I went to the dealership to have the valves adjusted on my Accord and they found that cylinder number five cam lobes and rocker arms were worn down. Add to that I have a noise coming from the rear valve train (cylinders 1 2 and 3) in the Odyssey (I love when these things happen at the same time). I haven't had the Odyssey looked at by the dealer yet to troubleshoot the sound, so I don't know what's up with that; however, the cost of the valve adjustment, front camshaft replacement, and valve cover replacement (the magnesium material corroded at spark plug seal area beyond the ability to retain oil - common according to the dealer - so the valve cover must be replaced with a used part because Honda doesn't sell them anymore) is around $1600 out the door. Just found out so I have figured I'd share.
 
Sharing a valve lash inspection and adjustment cautionary tale as I'm feeling the pain of not having my valves adjusted on interval. I have two vehicles with a 3.5 V6: a 2008 Honda Accord 155k mi and a 2012 Honda Odyssey 205k mi. I didn't realize the valves needed to be adjusted until the Odyssey got to approximately 145,000 mi. So I had it done at the dealership. I was a motorcycle mechanic in a time when valve adjustment was common and necessary for motorcycles in late 90s so I did a lot of valve adjustments, but hydraulic lifters were the standard for cars (and a lot of motorcycles were moving in that direction too) when I got out of the mechanic ling business. So valve lash inspection and adjustment wasn't even on my radar for my "modern" vehicles (these are my first two Honda four-wheel vehicles). Anyway, I went to the dealership to have the valves adjusted on my Accord and they found that cylinder number five cam lobes and rocker arms were worn down. Add to that I have a noise coming from the rear valve train (cylinders 1 2 and 3) in the Odyssey (I love when these things happen at the same time). I haven't had the Odyssey looked at by the dealer yet to troubleshoot the sound, so I don't know what's up with that; however, the cost of the valve adjustment, front camshaft replacement, and valve cover replacement (the magnesium material corroded at spark plug seal area beyond the ability to retain oil - common according to the dealer - so the valve cover must be replaced with a used part because Honda doesn't sell them anymore) is around $1600 out the door. Just found out so I have figured I'd share.
The camshaft issues are unlikely to be valve adjustment related. Many of the VCM-2 era camshafts like yours have defects that cause this premature wear.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
Can you point me to a thread on the premature wear?
Plenty of existing ones. Do a quick search on here and the Pilot forums and you'll see plenty of examples. Usually it starts as a ticking noise.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
It's not a simple look-see kind of inspection.
To substitute "look-see", you can use a stethoscope, broomstick, long screwdriver to listed to the valve area (right over valves). Listed to the fuel injectors first to know how to differentiate the sounds.
It doesn't make sense to just check valve clearances... Do all this work (valves, spark plugs, TB) at one time.
 
The sound I'm hearing in the Odyssey is valves, or rather rocker arms tapping valves. The rear valve cover is where I'm hearing it most with the stethoscope. If I were to guess I would say it was cylinder number two. I had the valves adjusted it 161k miles so it's been 46k miles since the dealer adjusted them.
 
The sound I'm hearing in the Odyssey is valves, or rather rocker arms tapping valves. The rear valve cover is where I'm hearing it most with the stethoscope. If I were to guess I would say it was cylinder number two. I had the valves adjusted it 161k miles so it's been 46k miles since the dealer adjusted them.
You could also be hearing the rocker shaft noise per TSB 08-017.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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The pictures of that google search were scary. I had 2002 Ody with 258000 miles and cam lobes looked "normal" without any pitting at all, but valves required adjustment anyway.
 
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The pictures of that google search were scary. I had 2002 Ody with 258000 miles and cam lobes looked "normal" without any pitting at all, but valves required adjustment anyway.
The pitting issue seems mostly isolated to the cams used on the VCM-2 Ody (08-17) and Pilot (09-15). Note that the VCM-2 Accord (08-12) has largely been unaffected and has a different part number for the camshaft.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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