What is the double failure? The TCS light just indicates the ABS/TCS system is disabled which it is for almost any MIL failure. This is a safety feature as the ABS/TCS circuits could perform irradically with a rough running engine. If you are getting the P0325 Knock sensor failure either it is defective or the cable is loose/broken.....

 

Thx. Good to know about TCS safety feature-my manual doesn't mention that and none of the threads I read did either. Certainly makes TS easier. I'll start with cnx and wiring.

 

And please post your year, model and current mileage in problems and concerns posts. It gives those of us reading here a since of where you are in your Ody experience.

 

sorry! It's a 2002 Odyssey with 69K miles.

 

For reference the service manual lists all the conditions that will cause the TCS light to come on with the MIL. There are too many to list here but it can be found under the ABS/TCS General Troubleshooting Information section.

 

Knock sensor & TCS

I have a request of William Wiles; where is the knock sensor located on my 2000 Odyssey 3.5 V6 engine? I would guess that all 3.5s between 99 and 04 have the same configuration. I had the same problem, the MIL said P0325, so I ordered a new knock sensor. I pulled the top black covers and searched for the knock sensor. I also crawled under and found a possiblity near the oil filter. The other possiblity is with the fuel injectors under the intake manifold.
I have to say, this OdyClub is great for educating an owner on what works and does not work. I am grateful for the advise senior members can and do give to new owners like myself.

 

On all V6 engines I owned, the knock sensor is located right in the middle of the V shape bank, under the intake manifold.


It is possible to test the knock sensor without removing the intake, if the wire is long enough to have the connector located outside of the inner V bank. Locate and disconnect the knock sensor wiring harness, and measure the impedance with a multimeter. Compare the result with the value specified in the shop manuel, which I dont have unfortunately.

 

Re: Knock sensor & TCS

I have a request of William Wiles; where is the knock sensor located on my 2000 Odyssey 3.5 V6 engine? I would guess that all 3.5s between 99 and 04 have the same configuration. I had the same problem, the MIL said P0325, so I ordered a new knock sensor. I pulled the top black covers and searched for the knock sensor. I also crawled under and found a possiblity near the oil filter. The other possiblity is with the fuel injectors under the intake manifold.
I have to say, this OdyClub is great for educating an owner on what works and does not work. I am grateful for the advise senior members can and do give to new owners like myself.

Book shows it front center of the engine by the manifold.

 

See part 8 Knock Sensor

http://www.slhondaparts.com/browse....n=A&Category=E++14++|CYLINDER+BLOCK-OIL+PAN&PartCatalogId=14S0X0&ViewParts=true

 

Knock sensor

About two hours ago I removed top cover on the engine and went searching down into the center section below the fuel injectors. I have one of those small flashlights with a flexible neck. I did find the knock sensor and found about quarter inch of red wire sticking out of the connector.
I had gone to Autozone to find out what the problem was. When they read the error code, P0325, I ordered a replacement. They said to expect it in 3 days, which is today. Will go in tomorrow and refuse the part and pay any restocking charges.
I located the sub wire assembly for the knock sensor on the web site you referenced for $2.70 which will save me better than $30.
Our closest Honda dealer is 150 miles from us, down in Phoenix. So I expect to change it myself.
Thanks for help

 

Thanks for the detailed explanation above. So what was the outcome? Just the wire replacement fixed the issue?

I also have P0325 and I ordered the knock sensor from AutoZone as well.

 

Knock Senser wire

Replacing the short wire from the knock sensor back to the harness proved to be no easy task. After removing the intake plenum chamber and the fuel rail for the injectors on the side closest to the front of the car, using a pair of long nose pliers I pinched the connector so it would come off the knock sensor. Before putting on the new wire I slipped on a piece of tubing the length of the wire and sealed it with liquid tape at each end.

This corrected the problem but to be sure it does not happen again I put mouse poison and traps under the hood.

Bill Gadbois
Honda Odyssey 2000 with 78K
Toyota Camry 2005 with 23K
Apex Trike N751EW 64 HP 2 cycle

 

Thank you Bill for the information.

How long did it take you to do this?

I will get the cable as well. I am wondering if I should do it myself or will it be too difficult for me? Most difficult automotive work I have done is oxygen sensor, brake job type of work.

Regards,
Chirag

 

I would advise you to have a mechanic do it. I was just lucky to reach the connector on the knock sensor. You need two gaskets, one for the intake plenum chamber and the other for the throttle body that connects on to the end of the plenum chamber. The whole job took me one afternoon.
After reading all the messages on the odyclub I had the feeling that the transmission is the weak point and the most costly replacement part. One of the senior members on this forum put a transmission cooler and a magnetic filter on his ody. I read his detailed writeup and did the same. I also changed the fluid to Mobil 1 synthetic. The transmission shifts much smoother now and I feel very confident it will have a long life.

Bill Gadbois

 

Great information. Bill. Will have a mechanic do the knock sensor job

I have bought the atf cooler and will be buying the inline filter as well. Will probably do this one myself.

Just changed my atf today but used honda z1. Mine is 2003 ex ody with 42K miles. Going forward will be changing the atf more frequently though. I have thought about using new Dexron VI or Mobil1 or Amsoil for the next change since the price would be about the same as honda z1 fluid.

 

I picked up the sub wire assembly cable for the knock sensor. Surprise, surprise -- The cable has a tape wrap with anti-rodent symbols. Under the tape, the wires seem to be covered by a plastic tube so that the mice can't get to the wires.

Had to buy a new washer machine so now I am thinking of tackling this myself.

 

Well I tried to replace the subwire cable today - UNSUCCESSFULLY .

Here are my observations from spending 6+ hrs on this.
The cable was cut by a mouse. There was pieces of sound deadening insulation material present in the V-wall area. That answers the missing piece of sound deadening material from the slidewall.

Had hard time separating the throttle body (did get the 4 bolt off) form the intake manifold so I removed all the cables, connectors, and hoses attached to it. This helped me remove the
throttle body assembly+ intake manifold as one piece.

Also, the mouseproof wire I mentioned previous post is not for Ody because the connector is different. I had to go back to the dealer to exchange for the same cheap kind.

I was not successful in doing this job because while trying to remove the connector with a needle nose, I broke the knock sensor as the plastic material cracked.

I could not get to the knock sensor because the long socket (24mm) would not fit through the space available--so no way to remove the sensor w/o further disassembly. I thought of removing the lower intake manifold but it seemed some what of a challenge. So I stopped and reassembled.

Did notice that there was lot of carbon build up. On the intake manifold, the 3 small holes in rear were almost blocked. The top plate (which has a maze like path that connects to the small holes) was also filled with thick layer that I cleaned. The front 3 large intake holes were more black and has some black carbon build up but the back 3 were not.

To add to my misery, I seem to have messed up something else because now I have erratic idling and erratic shifting at speed of 45 or more. (may have something to do with removing the bolt and the 2 cables on throttle body that control idle?)

So now I will take it to a shop or dealer since i am not sure how difficult it is to remove the lower manifold and not sure how to fix the irratic idle/shifts.

 

Replaced the knock sensor w/o removing the lower intake - though it was PITA to remove the knock sensor.

I slid the socket between the lower intake manifold and engine block from the side that has the fuel hoses. Long needle nose pliers and a metal hanger turned out to be the tool of choice to help align and push the socket on top of the knock sensor - took about 1 hr to get this done. FYI, The socket I had was 3 inch long. a 2 inch one would work best.

The eratic idle is gone too after good cleaning of the intake manifold and use of gasket sealer spray on gaskets.

Next projects on list:
1. ATF cooler and Magnefine filter. 2. Front brake job

 

Hi everyone,
I got the same problem with the knock sensor , thinking about replace the wire myself. Anyone know how to apply gasket sealant on the manifold's gasket? the gasket I ordered, it has 3 layers of thin metal sheet. Thanks.

 

Just thought I'd bump this post as I too myself just got the P0325 code on the way to work this morning. Reset it with my ScanGauge and it came back 5 times! :stupid:

Just called the local Honda dealer and ordered the sub-wire, Knock sensor part for $3.61 (+tax). Will receive the part within a couple of days.

Looks like I'll be spending my Saturday afternoon wrenching.
It's a love-hate relationship... On one hand it sucks to loose a Saturday afternoon like that... On the other hand... It's quite beer time in the garage

ps. I killed the rat that did this last weekend...He's still haunting me!

 

shakeum, I am in the same position as you were. I tried to reach in and remove the plug from the sensor and it broke off the top half of the sensor, very easily I may add. I have the sensor but it does look tough to get in there. Did you remove the nearside fuel rail to do this? Also did you need to re-route the wire above the lower manifold as it looks near impossible to connect the wire underneath as it was originally. Any help is appreciated.
Steve

 

never mind, I got it. It was pretty tough as I did not have the right socket, the closest I had was a 15/16 but it was half inch drive and the only swivel I had was 3/8 so by the time I had the adapter and swivel on the socket is was an extremely tight fit. I did have to remove the fuel rail to get in there with this monstrocity. Even then it was tough to get the new sensor started in the hole but eventually I got it. I did thread the wire above the lower manifold behind the near left injector and it seemed to fit ok. So it was not so easy but I didn't have much else to do on a cold winter day, hopefully my hands will thaw out soon. Thanks for the tips.
Steve.

edit: UH OH...I went for a ride, about 25 minutes at hwy speeds, no problem, light still off, went to church and then the diner for dinner, then on way home, at hwy speeds for 15 minutes check engine light came back on! I am suspect that it may be something else though as it took so long to come on. Maybe something that really has to heat up like an O2 sensor. The light had been on for about a month and a half since the knock sensor code so maybe in that time another sensor or wire failed. I'll check it out tomorrow.
S.

 

I changed a knock sensor and sub harness in an MDX for a friend of a friend. I took the power steering pump out and went at it from that end. I bought a 24mm wrench and was able to get the knock sensor out without removing the intake manifold and injectors, etc..

 

Knock Sensor

Well, the sensor broke off on me to. Not having the sensor, I just attached the wire to the broken part and dropped it on the bottom half still in the engine block. Of course, the light came back on. The wife has been bugging me to get the engine light off until I got the new sensor last week. Wallah...the light went off on it's own and it has stayed off for the last week. It must have giggled itself back into place.
Now I don't feel rushed to install the new sensor, but it'll get done soon, and hopefully not break during the install.
In the meantime, I've just ordered the rear heater control knob and all new PIAA wiper refills for the Ody and the TL.

Thanks to all who posted advice on fixing the Ody at home.

 

MIL light came on along with the TCS light on my 2004 Odyssey. OBD Reader confirmed the P0325 DTC. Lucky for me the only damage was the severed wire and not a bad knock sensor. Just want to share a few pointers on this thread.

Here are the parts I purchased for the repair. The two different types of O-rings were to replace those on the three injectors attached to the fuel rail that I removed; there is an upper and lower O-ring on each injector. I just re-used the metal intake gaskets.

I went in through the upper intake and had to remove one fuel rail before there was enough room to reach the connector on the knock sensor. The knock sensor is down there (green circle); as you can see there's not much room with the fuel rail in place. The red circle shows the area where the opposite end of the KS service wire connects to the engine wiring.

There's the knock sensor connector with the single wire chewed to a stub.

It helps to know where the latch mechanism is to release the connectors on each end of the service wire ... circled in red below. The connector at the opposite end of the service wire is secured to a connector stay right behind the power steering pump. To release it from the stay first disconnect its mating connector, then press in the latch mechanism, which is at the lower part of the connector and towards the front of the van, and then push the connector down off the stay.

A set of long needle nose pliers really helped to reach in and down between the lower intake runner to un-latch the connector. I used the one with the curved tips to unlatch the connector at the opposite end of the service wire secured to the connector stay. A set of these pliers can be purchased at Harbor Freight for pretty cheap.