oh darn it.
was hoping i would wake to an answer.

 

Since this all started with draining the battery, try disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds or more to reset the PCM.

Did you boost the van after draining the battery or charge it? A purist would disconnect the battery before doing either, but few do this apparently without problems. The risk is a power surge that could fry the PCM.

Dave

 

I just put a 10a charge to it.
so you think I have a fryed pcm?

that sounds expensive


is there a fuse that I can check? why the obd is not working

 

It's possible that the PCM is fried, but they often take a lot more abuse than this without damage. There's not enough indication yet that it's damaged. It would be premature to replace the PCM at this point.

Check the OBD port that all the contacts are straight. Also, do you have another car to try your code reader?

Dave

 

I found 1 blown fuse under hood. BACK UP fuse.
I now have doors and locks. Also power to 16 port on the obd.

I then disconnected for around 20min

but there is No power to 1-5,14 fuses on drivers side> maybe these dont get power until I hit the locks. Or still dont have power due to the abs/traction codes.

Either way looks like I need a trip back to o'rileys to see if they can now clear the and/traction code.

 

It would help to have a year and trim level to check a wiring diagram. One simply needs to determine what feeds those fuses. If you had one blown fuse it wouldn't be surprising to have more.

 

2013 ex

1-5,14 were no power with key to the II position.

locks and doors seemed to be working though.

 

Fuse #14 is hot only in the "Start" position. It is fed by the main 125A fuse in the main underhood fuse box.

Fuses 1-5 in the driver's under dash fuse box are fed through the power door lock relays and will actually have a ground on them when not being locked or unlocked. You will see voltage on them while either locking or unlocking.

The auto parts stores probably won't be able to read or clear your traction control light. If you can be a little more clear on exactly which lights are still on that would also be helpful. There is usually a "VSA" light and a /!\ light.

 

thanks so much.
Everything is now working fine. except for the 2 light options.

I need to find someone who has a CAN with ABS? think they can clear this?

 

Clearing the codes assumes there is no actual fault. If there is a fault then the codes will come right back when cleared. Try putting a jumper wire on pins #4 and #9 and then turning on the key. This will put it in SCS mode and may give you flash codes on the display. Simply count the flashes on the respective lights to read the codes.

 

code flashes "no"
only abs flashes
flashes 7x
flashes 9x
flashes 9x+like 3-4 real fast flashes
repeats

now doors are not working again.
*correction. After running to town the doors are now working again

 

Unfortunately, none of those codes are listed in the factory service manual. My service manual is for 2011-2012 so either they are codes specific to 2013 model year or your module is reporting incorrectly. Without a proper scan tool that can read the codes in the brake module it may be impossible to know.

 

took van to local shop. cleared code. abs-low voltage code.
all good. No service charge

 

Came out of the grocery store to find all none of my doors would open and my locks wouldn’t work. Not with my keyfob, interior buttons or even manually. Plugged in OBD scanner and it wouldn’t come on. Which lead me here looking for common denominator. Thanks to your post I found the culprit. It did turn out to be the back up fuse was blown. Replaced it immediately. The car door started beeping that they were open. All the locks work and the OBD scanner works again. Thank you!

 

There's usually a reason a fuse blew. It may happen again.