That's not nearly enough of a leak to drop the level in the crankcase. You'd have big drips on the ground if that was the case.

The oil filter housing has been known to leak at the gasket, so that would be my suspect. I'd clean it up the best you can and check in a few hundred miles. That way, the creeping action of the oil won't fool you about the leak location.

-Charlie

 

That's not nearly enough of a leak to drop the level in the crankcase. You'd have big drips on the ground if that was the case.

The oil filter housing has been known to leak at the gasket, so that would be my suspect. I'd clean it up the best you can and check in a few hundred miles. That way, the creeping action of the oil won't fool you about the leak location.

-Charlie

Thanks for the insight. I will do just that. Clean it up and see what happens. Looks pretty straight forward from MrRangerZr1’s video. Also helps the part is 12 bucks. I was worried since I saw oil stains above the filter that it may be coming from above all that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

if that timing belt got oil soaked, expect its service life to be shortened.
I see oil on the cover and seeping from the shoulder bolt.

 

This belt is at 66k mikes and 4 years. It is not an Aisin or Honda (before I knew about the number one ody TB rule). It came from Napa so I think it is a gates. I am going to just replace it all before winter hits with Aisin. I called today to get a quote from the local dealer, just to see and it came back at $2K. $1200 of that was just for the parts. I priced the parts alone at majestic Honda and it was just north of $500. I still don’t understand how the Aisin kit can be so much cheaper but I think that’s what I am going with from RA. Need to stop that leak first though. I just hope it isn’t the cam seal.

Is there a way to check if it’s the cam seal from the top? Maybe squeak the cover back a bit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

How about grease being thrown out of the constant velocity joint?

 

I don’t think so…. I checked and appears to be intact.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Clean the engine and check in a month or so. Might just be an earlier spill. In my book it ain't an oil leak unless its spotting the driveway.

 

Just like Charlie stated... that is a gasket between the oil filter housing and the part it goes attached to. Just found this link. Check it out from the ody club as well. DIY: 2007 Honda Odyssey LX Oil Filter Housing (OFH) Gaskets

 

Just like how Charlie stated, it is probably the oil filter housing gasket. However, depending on the model year there might be different gasket or housing models to do this fix since the 2005-2007 models differ, and the 2008 and up seem a bit different as well. In mine, which is a 2008, I just needed the housing gasket, which this oil filter housing does not have the top oil switch. This is similar to what Mr. Ranger Z shares in a video. If all okay, this is his video

 

Had that same problem and it was an easy fix.

oil leak from above filter with pics

Got the engine cleaned to find oil leak. Next day, went under the car to spot leaks. For a while I thought it was from the bolt. I changed it from factory one to the magnet type at the same time. The drip is faster than before cleaning. It seems to be either oil pan gasket or above filter area...

www.odyclub.com

 

So can oil weep upward? The oil residue around the timing cover bolt and the little bit around the base of the tensioner is what has me concerned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

So can oil weep upward? The oil residue around the timing cover bolt and the little bit around the base of the tensioner is what has me concerned.

If the tensioner was leaking, its body would be wet. Oil can creep up a bit (not full drips, just wetness that attracts dust).

-Charlie

 

Around the tensioner cover might be from vtec (4), ps pump stuff (I did have to deal with hp line 2, o-rings 1), vc gaskets 3. So 1, 2, 3 would definitely make it around the timing covers. 4 may but mostly towards front and down alternator.
The rear vc might come down near the heater hex bolt and slowly close to oil filter housing area.
Also with 1, see if there is any that is going below that reservoir to pump line groove at block and then towards the covers. I used to use paper towels and clean before I finally traced it to down side of the hose where the clamp was. Then replaced hose with OEM part. It is still good after several years.

On my 01, only 1, 3. Luckily didnt have to do 2,4. But when 2 happened I did have to clean around the tb cover area because it literally sprayed everywhere.

My oil filter housing gasket issue was before 2, 3, 4. It did kinda go upward a bit probably due to the wind/suction/etc. It also went round areas to make it down the oil pan. Though not a lot upward, did make it greasy looking and dirt collection. But it was lucky that I caught before it became drip size to make floor mess. Since it was our most used car maybe it didnt have that much time except overnight parking.

Oil leak traces suck.

 

Around the tensioner cover might be from vtec (4), ps pump stuff (I did have to deal with hp line 2, o-rings 1), vc gaskets 3. So 1, 2, 3 would definitely make it around the timing covers. 4 may but mostly towards front and down alternator.

Sorry, I am sure I missed this somewhere in the threads but can you clarify what you are referring to with 1,2,3 and 4?

I watch that spool valve like a hawk, especially with a new alternator installed. So far it is ok [emoji1696]. The PS pump seems ok. At least from looking at it from the top. PS fluid mark is steady too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Did you ever end up figuring out what was causing the leak? Mine has a leak that looks absolutely identical to this and I was just about to order the oil filter housing gasket to repair it.

 

Replace the oil filter housing gasket. It's cheap and easy. You can get to it without even taking any other parts off.

If you replace that and still have a leak, the it's most likely the oil pump itself that's leaking. There is a high pressure on the back at the top eventually starts leaking, and that will push oil past the thin layer of Hondabond glueing the pump to the block. Unfortunately the repair is basically an entire timing belt job PLUS removing the oil pump and reinstall it. Usually called an "oil pump re-seal".