Moog is the brand that o'reilly sells as their "professional" grade so that might be a good option.

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Any good quality outer tie rod is fine. Look for the hearts on Rockauto. It is a quick job, but helps to have a tie rod separator to get it out of the control arm.

 

I would rather the well known brands. MOOG, personally I use all the parts for suspension, except shocks. They are a professional grade materials.

Also, you do not need a fork to remove the tie rod off the spindle hub, it has a "ball" on the hub( that goes the same with the ball joint, but a little flatter). That location you can bang it with the hammer to vibrate the tie rod out.

Oh yea, tie rod is not connected to the control arm.

 

When I did mine I used Moog. No issues. I did use a fork as I wasn't going to take any prisoners. I couple of shots with the air hammers and Bob's your uncle.

 

Thanks everyone. Moog is the winner here

 

How many miles on your van?
Honda parts are the best for sway bar links and tie rod ends. Price the Honda parts. Our van had 205,000 miles on it and they were original!
I’m a mechanic and I checked them all the time. Never been aligned!!

 

It has 150K miles now. I'm not sure if the current tie rod end is original Honda part

 

Looks like OEM is around $40 at Bernardi. 53540-SHJ-A01

What price are you seeing for Moog?

 

It's really difficult to remove my tie rod end. I already tried hitting two points with hammer but did not come out. Please share any tip.

 

I realize you got yours out, but I have used a bottle jack (or floor jack) to push up on the bottom of the ball joint stud (with nut on). That and pounding on the knuckle usually causes it to pop out.

 

Got it off the spindle hub. Now it's challenging to take it off inner tie rod. It is way tight than I thought

 

Can't believe. Messing around the inner tie rod end but can't get it out yet. It's damn tight

 

it's bound up with corrosion product on the threads. A penetrating oil will really help free it up (the only thing locking the threads in place when installed is the locknut, which you have already backed off)

 

I used this:

Lang Tools 615 Tie Rod Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019CJ63A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gl5YBb1FD9FWV

And a large crescent wrench on the nut. It was a bit of force to get it broken free. I am replacing both, so I didn’t even mess with the nut. Once the outer tie rod, spun off by hand.

Spray the threads down with the penetrating oil.


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A simple tie rod end job turned into nightmare. Penetrating oil and pipe wrench could not get it off. Looks like I have to replace inner tie rod end. So frustrated

 

If you replace the inner - a crows foot or an inner tie rod removal tool will be needed. I have done a few with a crows foot. With air and an impact driver it comes off eventually.

Inners have always been a bitch in my experience. I bought this thing for my 2010 and it was freaking awesome.

OEMTOOLS 27178 Master Inner Tie Rod Tool Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS7FD62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_WbFIMfyz7u9To

Amazing. I am not sure if the length would be a problem if the knuckle is attached to the control arm. I am replacing all kinds of crap, so I have everything disconnected.


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I eventually went to advance auto parts and bought the inner tie rod end, rented their tie rod tool. Took out the inner one out within a minute using their crow foot. I still had to took outer one off inner one to reuse lock nut and boot. I had to use two pipe wrenches, one with 3 foot long steel pipe to break it loose. It's very tight. Putting everything back together as fast as I expected.

 

Glad to hear you got it taken care of. Sometimes it is a crap shoot as to what it will be like.

Our van has ~180k on it and everything came apart fairly easily. I didn’t mess with the damn nut as I assumed it would be a bitch to get it off.

Happy driving!


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People like Moog for these tie rod ends yes?

I noticed that the Beck Arnley seems to be a 555 brand made in Japan. Isn't that OEM?

I guess the Moog comes with the grease nipple so that is why people prefer

I am going to be doing my LCAs. I suppose while I am in there for 20 bucks each I should just replace the outer tie rods too since my car is 10 yrs old even though only 72k miles? Then everything is nice and tight

Unless I don't need an alignment after just LCAs and then I could save that 80 bucks too and just see how it feels on the old tie rods ends and new LCAs