As well, others have said not to manually open the TB when cleaning... I did that.

So there's that.

Honda also wants the gasket to be replaced every time you take off the throttle body, did you use a new one? Did you also perform the idle learn procedure?

 

So there's that.

View attachment 174066

Honda also wants the gasket to be replaced every time you take off the throttle body, did you use a new one? Did you also perform the idle learn procedure?

Thanks for the diagram. No, I did not replace the gasket; didn't realize that was recommended each time it was removed.

I did not do the Idle learn procedure with the scan tool as I don't have that tool. I attempted to have the dealer do one for me, and they said they attempted to but could not d/t cracked air intake duct. Charged me 75$ for 3/4 hour labour, didn't do what I asked, and told me I needed air intake hose + oil pump re-seal and full timing chain/water done (when they were done 70,000 kms ago). I replaced the air intake.

Other threads mentioned another version of the idle learn procedure by disconnecting battery, turning on, revving engine for a few minutes, etc (don't have it memorized). Tried that, no change.
Then others in the forum said that idle learn procedure is unnecessary as it will learn as it is driven over a few weeks. That has not happened after 4000 miles.

So between dealer saying that couldn't do the procedures, others saying it's unnecessary, and others giving a no-tool version, this is where I'm at. I'd rather not have to spend 250 on the tool at this point... and I've been unimpressed with the dealer to this point.

 

You need a bidirectional scan tool to reset the car's computer (PCM) and then perform an idle relearn procedure.

The forum has many discussions about cleaning the throttle body and the resulting high and unstable idle.

 

This is what got you into trouble "cleaned the TB and MAFS " . Removing the throttle body should not do you wrong.

For the price the dealer is going to charge you to do two simple procedures, you could spend the same amount of $$$ or less to get yourself a Foxwell scanner and do them yourself.

PCM reset and Idle relearn sound intimidating enough, but there is nothing to it. You do that within the Honda software which would come with the Foxwell if you select Honda as your choice of brand.

You do the PCM reset first then follow the instruction to do the Idle Relearn--Basically, start the car and let it idle for like 20 minutes. That's it. The hardest part is knowing when to perform these procedures and not the actual parts of doing them.

 

That makes sense. I'd already spent a decent amount more than I had planned fixing it up after buying it, so I was hoping to avoid anything non-essential. Because others had said it would 're-learn' on its own/attempt at dealer, etc, I had wondered if there was another potential.

But it sounds like I should start by buying a TB gasket and then a foxwell. Thanks for the help!

 

The official website is below, and that is what I would buy from. It comes with 1 car manufacturer of your choice and lifetime software update warranty. I do not know who the seller is on Amazon and whether if it would get the same warranty. I think the NT530 superseded the NT510 sometimes ago so go for the NT530 instead.

Foxwell Diag | Foxwell Official Site | OBD2 Scanner & Diagnostic Tool

Unlock your vehicle’s true potential with Foxwell Diag's advanced OBD2 scanners, designed for popular brands like Toyota, Honda, and Ford. Our user-friendly automotive scan tools and car code readers make diagnostics a breeze, ensuring your car runs smoothly and reliably.

www.foxwelldiag.com

 

I hadn't thought to order right from the site. Thanks. Got that ordered now, more affordable that I thought it'd be.

 

I realize there are several threads on this issue, but couldn't find one with a definitive answer (as if that exists), and didn't want to hijack an old thread. I also asked a similar question before but wasn't able to find a solution. I'd like to know if I'm on the right path here.

Recent fault code: p0507
Problem:
Back in January I replaced the spark plugs, cleaned the TB and MAFS, replaced PCV valve, new engine air filter, added half a bottle of seafoam. After this, the idle went wildly high. It pulls me forward when I release the brakes. It will speed up to 15mph from a stop way to fast. It does this in reverse and drive. It doesn't normalize when warmed up. I've done the manual TB reset protocol I found on here twice with no change. I don't have a OBD unit that can reset the TB. Others on here said reseting the TB was unnecessary as it would normalize over time. Iive since driven 4500 miles with no change at all and has not normalized on its own. Still idling 1100-1400 at rest. If I'm crusing at 40mph and release gas, it barely slows down. It has become almost dangerous as it will push me into traffic at intersections or parking spots quicker than expected and I need to quickly apply brakes.

I noticed it feels like I need to depress brakes considerably more than expected and brakes were brand new 5000 miles ago.

As i went through the thread below, it notes a vacuum leak of the brake booster (or hose) like should be checked. I'd never heard of this. But it sounds like a reasonable place to start given the braking issue?
Is there a best or most doable way to check for these vacuum leaks if I don't have a smoke machine? I haven't really yet found a good way explained.

please help with code P0507, P2279

i have a 2007 honda odyssey and i dont have any issue with my engine. since its already 115,000 miles, i thought of adding an additive to improve the engine performance ( cleaning the carbon, injector and upper cylinder, etc ). i bought an additive called SEAFOAM and pour some (1/3 as directed)...

www.odyclub.com

As well, others have said not to manually open the TB when cleaning... I did that. How can I test if the TB is the problem before replacing?

Any other thoughts or threads on this are appreciated.

 

If you have your VCM muzzled, be sure to remove it before performing the procedures. You can put it back afterward when the engine is cold. If you don't know what I am talking about, then you can disregard my comment--you probably don't have muzzler.

 

I do have a VCM muzzler from Verbatim. 7500kms and the ECO mode light has come on for about 1 second the whole time, until the other day it was above freezing by quite a but and it came on for about 10 seconds.

I forgot about that, so I'll make sure to remove for the idle relearn when I do it.

 

The TB gaskets rarely fail on these but never hurts to replace it. Your problem most likely isn't the gasket. Hopefully, you've fixed the torn intake tube as that will cause all kinds of issues.

Connect your NT510 and do a PCM Reset. Then go in and do the TP Relearn. It will tell you to clean your TB before doing the relearn. Once you do the relearn you can look in live data on the scan tool for the data pid that says "Idle Learn." It should say incomplete or not learned or some such thing. Warm the engine to normal operating temp and let it sit and idle with all loads off. Let it idle for 10-15 minutes and that data pid should change to complete or learned. It is critical that you remove any VCMuzzlers or the like because the vehicle will never come up to temperature (at least that the computer can see) and the idle relearn pid will never change to complete.

 

UPDATE:

Received the foxwell nt530 today. I ran the PCM reset followed by the idle relearn protocol following instructions noted above. It resolved the unstable idle issue so far. No more high idle, lurching forward, or speeding to 25-30kmh when in drive with no gas pedal depression. We'll see how if it continues after a cold start tomorrow.

I personally found the foxwell harder to use than most people noted, and had a really difficult time finding the appropriate procedures.

So far, so good. Will re-install the vcm muzzler tomorrow morning.

 

Glad you were able to persevere and figure it out to resolve your issues. The NT530 is a useful tool, but I agree that it is not very user friendly or intuitive. Downloading software modules from their website for other vehicles is also not a fun experience.

 

Mine turned out to be a bad PCV valve. I figured this out after changing the throttle body and all vacuum lines.