[BoggsZ]

 

[BoggsZ]

 

[John Clark]

P1659: ETCS Control Relay Off Malfunction
P2122 Accelerator Pedal Position APP Sensor A (TP sensor D) Circuit Low Voltage
P2127 Accelerator Pedal Position APP Sensor B (TP Sensor E) Circuit Low voltage

When you set a power train code (Pxxxx code) you will often get other systems that will light up because there is a power train code set. I would ignore the LCW and FCW lights until you figure out the ETCS system issue.

If you unplug connectors with the key on, or sometimes even within a few minutes of turning the key off, you will set codes just because you unplugged something. I would clear out the codes and see what comes back right away.

I think you said the P1659 code is what is being set and comes right back. You also mentioned a damaged relay. Did you replace that relay? The AC clutch also uses a relay so if someone has been swapping relays around you may have a couple of bad ones in there.

Looking at the photos this car is going to be a pile of trouble. Someone has hacked it up and run extra wires for who knows what. This will take someone really good with electrical diagnostics.

 

[John Clark]

A glowing catalytic converter is a sign of an overheating converter. It could be plugged, it could have too much fuel going through it, lots of things. Again, this vehicle needs some real diagnostic. If you continue to drive it that way it will melt the #5 coil and possibly wiring that's up front.

 

[BoggsZ]

Thanks for the replying guys , no I'm not driving it anyware definitely don't want to cause more damage its sitting in my driveway till I get it figured out or might have to tow it to the dealer for diagnostic. For some odd reason I can't reset any codes with my obd scanner ( its little out dated I think) ...yes I changed out the Ac fan relay with a new one from auto zone and that's when I was sitting in parking lot to see if the AC starts working again and then 10 minutes later these lights popped up...so what's my solution for this where should I start ? I'm thinking going to a junk yard tomorrow here locally a get a whole fuse box possibly with all the relays . Or is there something that's making the throttle positioning sensor to aked up. How can I test the throttle body if good?

 

[John Clark]

Any OBDII code reader should be able to clear the codes. Is it telling you it can't clear them? If you clear them but the codes are still there then likely the problem that's setting the codes is still there. Removing a battery cable for a couple minutes should also clear the codes. I'd start with the P1659 code since that's what came up first.

My service manual is for a 2012 so it may or may not apply directly. The P1659 code is for the ETCS relay circuit. Check the No. B9DBW (ETCS) relay fuse in the underhood fuse box. It could also be a problem with the relay. However, it could also be a problem in the wiring between the relay (including the fuse box itself) and the PCM.

 

[BoggsZ]

 

[BoggsZ]

Is the second relay is for tps right?

 

[BoggsZ]

Whsts that long box that comes out is there relays in there too?

 

[BoggsZ]

So I started the van , no lights because I disconnected the battery from last night, so started right up no issues reves up fine when I press on the pedal . Then after 10 minutes later rpms jump up to 1500rpms with same 4 lights on the dash . So what's going on? Is this have to do something with exhaust ?

 

[John Clark]

To be honest, I believe you're in over your head on this one. You would probably be money ahead to have it looked at by a professional shop that is good at diagnostics. The hot catalytic converter is a separate problem. That said, catalytic converters do get very hot and I've never looked at one in the dark. Generally around 600-700F is what I've seen on other cats on other cars. As for what's going on, I can't know since I'm not there with a scan tool to know what codes returned.

 

[BoggsZ]

So what can trigger it seems like when it got warmed up I started doing that, do the actual throttle body go bad on these cars? I'm picking up a new fuse box, so I can rule that part out then also I have a used throttle body too, so I'll swap it out

 

[John Clark]

You are buying parts and firing the parts cannon at something with absolutely nothing to go on. It would be so much cheaper to drop it off somewhere and have it diagnosed before just swapping parts that are probably not bad. I've never seen throttle body on one of these go bad. I've never seen a fuse box go bad either. From your pictures of the wiring my best guess is there is a wiring problem somewhere and you can replace parts until they're all replaced and you'll never fix the car. All the codes are circuit codes which indicate an electrical problem. It could be the throttle body, could be fuse box but for what these things cost it would be so much cheaper to have it diagnosed first.

 

[BoggsZ]

I with u on that just swapping parts not best idea.This fuse box that's on now looks kinda beat up lid does stay on it to because all the tabs are broken off .I'm in similar situation as I was with my chevy ones , I red the codes with I professional scaner (family member works at ford dealership so he scanned it for me) the code was couldn't communicate with ECM so I towed it to the Chevy dealer for diagnostic and guess what they told me ( no communication with ECM) then they want to start changing parts starting with new ECM , then reprogram everything. And this would cost me around 1k.so I let's do it my way, so I went to j yard and brought them used ECM cost me $70 and it worked, they reprogrammed it. So I paid like $370 or something like that.
So dealer will be my last resort

 

[John Clark]

The dealer, any dealer, is the worst place to take it. Find a good independent shop that has a good diagnostic technician.

I can almost guarantee you're going to change parts and wont fix the problem.

 

[BoggsZ]

Well John , I think I got it figured out now I retraced the wiring under the main fuse box probably wouldn't done it if I wasn't taking the fuse box apart I would have never found it , so the main bundle of wires that has like 30 or more wires running in there looked like bunch of them got pinched and by looking at the wire housing it looked fine ones I moved all of them out of the casing and started inspecting, picked one up pulled on it and it just snapped in the half only thing that was holding it together is the insulation then I went through all of them and found 2 more tied them together re solder them wrapped them up assembl rest of the stuff together replaced few relays with the ones that came with new fuse box . Started back up, no lights everything runs perfectly (I let it idale for like 20 minutes till the fan kicked in) So everything runs great thank God, kids and wife been praying about it. We planned road trip this weekend so yeah I hope no more issues just need to make sure the ac works good. Thank you for all the advice, I learned alot about this honda in these few days...I ll keep updating about it

 

[John Clark]

That's good to hear. I knew throwing parts at this one wasn't going to fix it and finding broken wires by just guessing can be like finding a needle in a haystack. Tracing the troubled circuits using a wiring diagram would have been what I'd have done to find it but you got lucky and found it so thats what matters. Aren't you glad you didn't put a throttle body on it? If you didn't open your new fuse box, assuming you bought it already, you can return it. No parts required for this fix. Those are the best kind.

 

[BoggsZ]

Yes I'm glad, parts were from junkyard, might just exchange the throttle body for something else , since on returns they only give u half the money back, so might just hold on to the fuse box for spares

 

[John Clark]

Oh, nonreturnable parts. Oh well. This is a good lesson in why a code does not tell you what part to change. If it only it were that easy. It just tells you where to start looking.

At least it fixed.

 

[engineerten]

Hi guys I'm new to this forum , signed up here with no intention of posting anything but then this happens
So we jut picked up 2016 EX-L with 37k on it so wife drove it around and said AC not blowing cold so I went around and started checking, found one relay that wasn't working it had a hole in its shell looks like someone poked it with something . So while was sitting car idling three lights came on LCW failed and LDW failed and traction control light and check engine light also .So I made the guy scane it and 3 codes came up ( same code 3 times )he also stated looks like they were there previously ETCS or P1659. And I noticed the rpms was staying over 1k and when I pressed on the paddle didn't seem like it did anything. So the guy erased the codes I drove home , no issues. Then later when I started car up the same lights came on again.So what can it be ? Is there a fuse for the throttle body ? Is the accelerate pedal bad? Or there something else?

Had the same thing happen with an MDX. Turned out the alternator was going bad and was not pushing enough amps to charge the battery and keep the electronics going. Had to replace the alternator and subsequently the battery to resolve the issue.