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Power sliding door mega thread - common issues, their symptoms, and how to fix them

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#1 · (Edited)
The goal of this thread is to consolidate all the information about power sliding door issues that is spread out across the forum. While it will be primarily focused on the 3rd generation Odyssey (2005-2010), the basic ideas in this thread can be applied to all Odysseys with power sliding doors. To an extent, some information can even be relevant for models with manual sliding doors. This thread will not cover every possible issue, but most common issues will be covered, so check here first.

While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading the rest of the thread (many pages) is not necessary. However, feel free to contribute to the discussion if you choose. You may find other helpful information in replies to the thread.

Preliminary Steps:
If you are encountering a problem with door movement, first make sure to follow these instructions to eliminate basic issues before continuing troubleshooting:
- Ensure that all 3 tracks (the upper track, center rail, and lower track) are clear of any blockages. It is especially common for debris to fall into the lower track during everyday use, which can interfere with door operation.

- The upper track should contain a rubber bumper at the rear end as shown below:
Image

Ensure this bumper is present, as it could potentially cause issues if it isn't. If you need to replace this bumper, the part number is: 72557-S0X-A00. There are many videos on YouTube showing how to install it. It is very simple and only takes a few seconds.


- Make sure the rollers on all 3 tracks are properly lubricated. A white lithium grease is a good lubricant to use.

- Pull out the #7 fuse in the driver's footwell fuse box for 15-20 seconds and then reinsert it. Once it is reinserted, cycle the door once manually and then see if the issue is resolved.

Common Issues:
Worn Center Roller (very common) -
Possible Symptoms: Door movement is jerky, door will close partway and then reverse direction.

One way you can confirm this issue is by using the movement test shown in this video. It involves grabbing the rear end of the door when it is open and pulling it back and forth perpendicular to the direction the door normally moves in, checking for excessive play.

Repair: Repair or replace the center roller assembly.

There are two ways to fix this issue. You can either replace the roller assembly, or if you're feeling adventurous, members of this forum have had success with replacing just the nylon rollers on the assembly. @kernel has put together a page showing this process on his website.

If you choose to replace the roller assembly, there are several videos detailing the procedure. Here is one example, from EricTheCarGuy:

For the 05-10 Odyssey, the roller assembly part numbers are as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72561-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72521-SHJ-A21

NOTE: As of March 2025, a new aftermarket center roller is available for the 05-10 Odyssey that uses metal rollers instead of nylon rollers like the OEM rollers and other aftermarket options. A few members have installed this new product, and early returns are promising. You may consider getting this over the OEM replacement. It is currently only sold as a pair for both the left and right side, but it is still very inexpensive and worth purchasing even if you don't use both sides immediately. You can find it on Amazon here:

With the exception of the specific aftermarket roller mentioned above, it is generally recommended to use an OEM assembly, as the aftermarket assemblies typically do not last long.

Failed Latch Actuator -
Possible Symptoms: When attempting to open or close the door, it makes a whine/groan noise, then fails to unlatch from the open or closed position. In some cases, the door may briefly whine/groan and then open with a loud popping sound.

Here is a video showing the symptoms of this problem, so you can see if it matches up with what you are experiencing.

Repair: Repair or replace the power release actuator (also known as the door latch actuator)

Although it does sometimes happen, it is very rare for anything to actually break inside this actuator. Inside the actuator is a small clutch pin. This clutch pin often gets stuck over time and doesn't move as easily as it should. This can be fixed by removing the actuator, opening it, and spraying the clutch pin and other gears inside with a white lithium or silicone spray grease. This repair is very effective and can last a long time. Here is a video that shows both the process of removing the actuator and performing this repair:

Alternatively, you can replace the actuator with a new part using the same instructions. The part number for the actuator for 05-10 Odysseys is as follows:
Driver's side (left): 72663-SHJ-A21
Passenger's side (right): 72623-SHJ-A21

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

Failed Rear Latch Assembly -
Possible Symptoms: Door gets pulled in too far when closing, pauses for a few seconds before releasing; Door doesn't latch when closing; 400 mA parasitic battery drain; Constant beep when van is put into gear with power sliding door main switch turned on; Slide Door light illuminated on dash; No response when attempting to open door

This is arguably the most involved common issue with the door, with many different potential symptoms that can arise from it. If one of your symptoms is seeing the Slide Door light illuminated on the dash, you can read the code using the "foil trick" that is shown in
this video.

Repair: Repair or replace the rear latch assembly

Generally, there are two different things that go wrong in this assembly. Over time, the gears and levers in the assembly can seize due to a lack of lubrication and fail to engage the microswitches for the latch. Thus, when the door goes to close, the control module is waiting for a response from the microswitches that it never sees, so it stays awake indefinitely waiting for the response, causing a draw on the battery, and the vehicle no longer sees the door as being closed, resulting in a beep when putting the van in gear. The microswitches themselves can also fail, causing the same symptom.

The easiest way to fix this issue is to purchase a new rear latch assembly and install it. This is guaranteed to solve the issue. The part numbers for the rear latch assembly for 05-10 Odysseys are:
Driver's side (left): 72650-SHJ-A22
Passenger's side (right): 72610-SHJ-A22

There is no aftermarket replacement for this part.

However, the latch assembly can be expensive at around $250, so many opt to repair/recondition the existing assembly.


One of the simplest things to try is to lubricate the mechanism through the exterior bolt holes. If you look at the back edge of the door, you will see three bolts sticking out:
Image


One bolt at a time, remove the bolt, spray some white lithium grease inside, and reinstall the bolt. Do this for all 3 bolts. Sometimes this can solve the issue.

Otherwise, you may need to remove the latch assembly from the door to solder in new microswitches and/or lubricate the mechanism so that the switch is engaged. This video shows the process of removing the assembly, testing, and replacing the microswitches:

Failed Fuel Door Interlock Switch -
Possible Symptoms: Driver's side sliding door does not unlock (3 beeps when trying to open); When trying to manually push up lock tab, the tab resists and returns to the locked position when released unless the tab is held in the unlocked position for several seconds.

Repair: Replace the fuel door interlock switch

In the fuel fill area, there is a switch that is designed to lock the driver's side sliding door when the fuel door is open to prevent the door from being opened, which could damage the fuel door. This switch can fail or not be engaged properly when the fuel door is closed, preventing the door from unlocking.

Open the fuel door and on the inside of the door, there should be a tab positioned in a way that causes it to press in the switch inside when the door is closed. If this tab is broken or missing, simply attach something else there to press in the switch, and this will resolve the issue.


If the switch itself has failed (you can test it by manually pushing the switch in and seeing if the door unlocks when you do this), it will have to be replaced. The part number for this switch on 05-10 Odysseys is:
74380-SHJ-A01

This video shows the switch as well as how to replace it:

Final Notes:
If you are looking for even more detailed information about any of these repairs, use the search function of the forum and you can find dedicated threads and posts. This post is simply intended to point you in the right direction.

While models with manual sliding doors do not have the power release actuator or the rear latch assembly, they do still have the center roller and the fuel door interlock switch, so those issues are still relevant.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#110 ·
Both of my automatic door are manual now. They were both disconnected when I changed the middle roller assembly on both doors. The driver side sliders rear latch assembly is bad & I also believe the motor is bad as well. So my battery is draining badly. I don't have anyone who can fix the rear latch assembly on my van without it costing me a small fortune. So I installed a trickle charger on my battery. I plug it in while at home and I have a battery bank I plug it into when I'm out. I previously purchased the battery bank for other uses so I didn't buy it specifically for this issue. I'll use it for this for now.
Image


Image
Image
 
#111 ·
I read every post here. My symptoms on my 2008 EX-L seem different. I have not yet taken the door apart, but I am diagnosing prior to that step. Passenger door is fine. Driver's door issue is being described.

1. There is no door related code. The only code is B1233, the heating/cooling actuator, and that has been an issue for a long time that I just have not spent the money to fix. No other codes are listed.
2. The door locks and unlocks normally. It does not try to relock. In addition, if I open the door to the fuel filler, I can hear a powered item change positions. When I close it, I hear it change. So I think the fuel door interlock is okay.
3. Rollers are fine. If the power door switch is off, it can be opened and closed using the inside handle quite easily. The rollers were relaced within the last 20,000 miles.
4. No audible alarms related to this door. No beeps or anything. I can get beeps by stopping the passenger door from opening, so this does not appear to be an issue with sound generation.
5. If the power door switch is off, the door can be manually opened and closed using the inside handle quite easily. But not from the outside. When I pull on the outside handle, nothing happens. If I manually open the door using the inside handle and then pull on the outside handle, I see it moving the latch mechanism. I can close the door using the outside handle.
6. This door stopped working suddenly.
7. No dash warning lights are on.
8. I pulled #7, waited and reinserted. Nothing changed.
9. Child lock level is off.
10. Before failure, the door sounded like it really enjoyed pulling the door closed tight. Like it wanted to crush a soda can. And it popped open happily. The sounds were completely different than the videos posted. It just sounded like it wanted to pull it in an extra 1/8" compared to the other door.

Thank you for helping!
 
#112 ·
I read every post here. My symptoms on my 2008 EX-L seem different...
The fix was actually really easy. I mentioned that I reset the fuse, right? Apparently, the door refused to work until after I entered the security passcode into the radio (after the reset). Once the code was properly entered, the door immediately began to work again.

I hope this helps someone.
 
#113 ·
Team. I've done the middle roller repair last year and it's come back with a vengeance and never was as smooth as I had hoped. I have not taken back apart yet to examine but are there are issues with rollers in the top or bottom that can cause the same jerk and backup behavior common with the failed middle roller? Or has my aftermarket roller assembly already failed even with very infrequent (once a week) use?
 
#114 ·
Aftermarket rollers last about as long as you'd expect (not very long). I installed an OEM part in early 2020 and it's still doing great.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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#118 ·
Ugh, my battery died when my son did not tell me about the rear latch sticking and even after re-charge, it has no power (voltage will drop immediately when try to start the car). Surprised that it died only after the battery was drawn down once. Got a new battery under warranty and now I broke down and finally ordered a new rear latch which I will install over the weekend (hopefully it will get here in time). I will check battery voltage daily though it does not look like the latch isn't sticking any more. I pulled out the latch and lubricated and put back in and it worked for a season, then everytime it got stuck, I used 3 bolt method but it is getting more and more frequent that I have to do this so new latch should fix the issue.
 
#119 ·
We’ve had a slide door light on for awhile that I kept meaning to try and reset because the power door on the driver side wouldn’t open automatically. When we had a new alternator put in last week, the light went away. I tested the driver side door and it opened automatically. That worked twice before it stopped working and the slide door light came back on. Any ideas? This minivan is a 2006 with 180k miles so I probably won’t be doing any major repairs for a door that’s still operable in manual mode but if there’s something easy I’d like to try. No noises or other weird things when it stopped working.
 
#120 ·
The motor is disabled when the light comes on, so that makes sense. But that light also means there's a code stored, and you should read the code. Use the foil trick linked in the original post to read it. It's probably a rear latch issue.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#121 ·
2007 Honda Odyssey ex-L

Issue: Both Rear Automatic Doors Don't work regardless of using the key fob, Dash buttons, or pulling on the door handle. They do automatically seal themselves if you close them manually.

Info: Sliding Door Light NOT illuminated. When Pushing buttons on left of steering wheel, keyfob, or pulling door handle there is absolutely signs of life. (No clicking, no movement, etc...)

Troubleshooting Steps: I have tried following the guide here on the forum a few times, where you pull fuses on both drivers & passenger side, open/close doors, and replacing fuses. Didn't help.

If anyone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it! Thanks.
 
#122 ·
2007 Honda Odyssey ex-L

Issue: Both Rear Automatic Doors Don't work regardless of using the key fob, Dash buttons, or pulling on the door handle. They do automatically seal themselves if you close them manually.

Info: Sliding Door Light NOT illuminated. When Pushing buttons on left of steering wheel, keyfob, or pulling door handle there is absolutely signs of life. (No clicking, no movement, etc...)

Troubleshooting Steps: I have tried following the guide here on the forum a few times, where you pull fuses on both drivers & passenger side, open/close doors, and replacing fuses. Didn't help.

If anyone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it! Thanks.
Did you make sure the main switch is in the on position so that the doors are in automatic mode?
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#124 ·
OK, I've read the whole book on sliding door issues....LOADS of good info! However, unless I missed it, I couldn't find my specific issue. If someone can direct me to the repair thread, I would appreciate it:)
I have a 2007 EXL with passenger side sliding door issues. The door will not open with the key fob, the door switch or either inside or outside door handles. There are no Sliding Door error lights illuminated on the dash. In fact, when i try to use a door handle, it doesn't sound or feel like there is any mechanical connection to the latch assembly! The handles move freely but they doesn't feel like they are trying to unlatch the door. Also, since this issue arose, I've been experiencing a parasitic drain on the battery that kills the battery if not used for two days.
I'd be surprised if someone hasn't described the same issue on this forum, but I couldn't seem to find it. Please re-direct me to the thread or provide some direction if you can.
Thanks to all... in advance.
 
#125 ·
OK, I've read the whole book on sliding door issues....LOADS of good info! However, unless I missed it, I couldn't find my specific issue. If someone can direct me to the repair thread, I would appreciate it:)
I have a 2007 EXL with passenger side sliding door issues. The door will not open with the key fob, the door switch or either inside or outside door handles. There are no Sliding Door error lights illuminated on the dash. In fact, when i try to use a door handle, it doesn't sound or feel like there is any mechanical connection to the latch assembly! The handles move freely but they doesn't feel like they are trying to unlatch the door. Also, since this issue arose, I've been experiencing a parasitic drain on the battery that kills the battery if not used for two days.
I'd be surprised if someone hasn't described the same issue on this forum, but I couldn't seem to find it. Please re-direct me to the thread or provide some direction if you can.
Thanks to all... in advance.
First off, there is no sliding door error light, only the door open or closed indicator.
Second, one of the most common symptoms of a faulty rear latch is a 0.4 amp parasitic battery drain as described in the first post of this thread. I suspect you have a bad rear latch, which is very common.


The “looseness” of the handle may be a separate issue.
 
#133 ·
Well...after using every swear word in my back yard dictionary, I finally got the door open enough to allow me to remove the bolts from the roller assembly. This allowed me to open the door a bit further to enable removal of the inner door panel. I then removed the rear door latch assembly. The two green micro switches appear to be working correctly when testing continuity with a meter. The "ratchet" is where I suspect an issue. When I move the mechanism thru it's positions there is continuity between the ground and one of the wires, but when the ratchet switch goes to the full counter clockwise position there is not continuity to the other wire. I've used brake cleaner to clean up all the parts and it does look like the ratchet switch does now rotate slightly more, but not enough to achieve continuity. When I removed the switch and rotated it slightly further, the wires do have continuity. I assume the switch is bad. Where can I locate one of these ratchet switches?... or am I doing something wrong?
 
#134 · (Edited)
The Panasonic microswitches are available from Digi Key website. They are blue, not green. The latch uses both NO and NC switches, so you need to know which is which.
I would recommend you replace all 3 visible switches. Let me know if you need to part numbers.
 
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#139 ·
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bigjoncoop
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07 Honda Odyssey Ex-L, 135k,
Joined Jan 22, 2024
11 Posts
#121 · Apr 15, 2024

2007 Honda Odyssey ex-L

Issue: Both Rear Automatic Doors Don't work regardless of using the key fob, Dash buttons, or pulling on the door handle. They do automatically seal themselves if you close them manually.

Info: Sliding Door Light NOT illuminated. When Pushing buttons on left of steering wheel, keyfob, or pulling door handle there is absolutely signs of life. (No clicking, no movement, etc...)

Troubleshooting Steps: I have tried following the guide here on the forum a few times, where you pull fuses on both drivers & passenger side, open/close doors, and replacing fuses. Didn't help.

If anyone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it! Thanks.

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WiiMaster
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Discussion starter · #122 · Apr 15, 2024


Did you make sure the main switch is in the on position so that the doors are in automatic mode?

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ryancachilli
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#123 · Apr 17, 2024


I am sitting here with your exact issue, was about to start pulling the door apart to clean out the rear latch like I had to do 6 months ago on the passenger side (even though the symptoms were different - no beeps, only latching in manual mode and not power mode), instead, I go in and put the code in, voila! Both doors work now as intended!

You literally just saved me from at least an hour of labor, which convinced me to switch from lurking to making an account just to say thank you!

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randywolkowski
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#124 · 1d ago

OK, I've read the whole book on sliding door issues....LOADS of good info! However, unless I missed it, I couldn't find my specific issue. If someone can direct me to the repair thread, I would appreciate it:)
I have a 2007 EXL with passenger side sliding door issues. The door will not open with the key fob, the door switch or either inside or outside door handles. There are no Sliding Door error lights illuminated on the dash. In fact, when i try to use a door handle, it doesn't sound or feel like there is any mechanical connection to the latch assembly! The handles move freely but they doesn't feel like they are trying to unlatch the door. Also, since this issue arose, I've been experiencing a parasitic drain on the battery that kills the battery if not used for two days.
I'd be surprised if someone hasn't described the same issue on this forum, but I couldn't seem to find it. Please re-direct me to the thread or provide some direction if you can.
Thanks to all... in advance.

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thscott
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#125 · 1d ago


First off, there is no sliding door error light, only the door open or closed indicator.
Second, one of the most common symptoms of a faulty rear latch is a 0.4 amp parasitic battery drain as described in the first post of this thread. I suspect you have a bad rear latch, which is very common.


The “looseness” of the handle may be a separate issue.

2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L; 160,000 miles; VCM is Muzzled (original VCMuzzler)
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randywolkowski
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#126 · 1d ago


Since I cannot open the door, is it possible to remove the inner door panel to inspect the cables and rear latch assembly with the door in the Closed position?

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thscott
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#127 · 23h ago


I think there is a way to do this but I do not know the procedure.

2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L; 160,000 miles; VCM is Muzzled (original VCMuzzler)
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WiiMaster
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Discussion starter · #128 · 22h ago


Yes there is

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#129 · 21h ago


interesting. I was not aware. What does it look like?

2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L; 160,000 miles; VCM is Muzzled (original VCMuzzler)
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WiiMaster
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Discussion starter · #130 · 19h ago


It is the Slide Door light referenced in the owner's manual. Looks like this, located in the upper right of the cluster:


Turn your ignition to ON and you'll see it during bulb check :)

This light indicates that there is a B-CAN DTC stored that can be read using a good scanner like the Foxwell or via the well known foil trick.

Also, when this light is illuminated, the sliding door motor on the affected side is disabled, so the door will only work manually.


The Fleet:
Bolt - 2006 Honda Odyssey - EX - Ocean Mist Metallic - 110k miles - Bought brand new in August 2006, never any major repairs, possibly the most reliable Odyssey on the road
Victus - 2012 Honda Accord - EX-L V6 - Crystal Black Pearl - 37k miles - Bought used in July 2022 with 23k miles
2010 Honda Accord - LX - Polished Metal Metallic - 92k miles - Bought used in September 2012 with 11k miles Wrecked

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thscott
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#131 · 14h ago (Edited)


Interesting. I do not believe I have this on my 2010 EX-L, but I will check tomorrow.

Update: I do see it in the owners manual so it must be there. Never noticed it before.

Update #2: I did verify that this warning light is indeed on my 2010 instrument panel. Always good to learn new things.



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If you have the part numbers that would be greatly appreciated!


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randywolkowski
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#133 · 45m ago

Well...after using every swear word in my back yard dictionary, I finally got the door open enough to allow me to remove the bolts from the roller assembly. This allowed me to open the door a bit further to enable removal of the inner door panel. I then removed the rear door latch assembly. The two green micro switches appear to be working correctly when testing continuity with a meter. The "ratchet" is where I suspect an issue. When I move the mechanism thru it's positions there is continuity between the ground and one of the wires, but when the ratchet switch goes to the full counter clockwise position there is not continuity to the other wire. I've used brake cleaner to clean up all the parts and it does look like the ratchet switch does now rotate slightly more, but not enough to achieve continuity. When I removed the switch and rotated it slightly further, the wires do have continuity. I assume the switch is bad. Where can I locate one of these ratchet switches?... or am I doing something wrong?

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thscott

The part numbers would be

Thscott, I would appreciate it very much if you could provide the appropriate P/N's for all three switches. FYI, the 2-wire switches on my latch are Green! The ratchet switch is Black with a Green crank arm.
You may want to delete your post #136. You somehow quoted everything in the thread since #121. It’s all screwed up.
 
#141 ·
The NC switch is Panasonic ABJ362860 (Digi Key part number 255-6457-ND)

The NO switch is Panasonic ABJ363860. (Digi Key part number 255-6509-ND)

I don’t recall if it is the NO or NC switch that you need 2 of. So, I would order 2 of each unless you know for sure.

www.digikey.com
 
#152 ·
2008 Honda Odyssey Touring....totally baffled and discouraged!
  1. Did the digikey NC/NO switch replacement on the driver side sliding door
  2. Re-installed rear latch and now no power at all to the door (other door works perfectly still), not from inside, outside, driver, remote, nothing, just a dead door.
  3. Checked all fuses on drivers side, passenger side, engine compartment (40 amp fuses), gas door, reset fuse 7, moved door manual/auto switch on/off, discounted battery....nothing
  4. Also tested the theory of disconnecting just the rear latch assembly on the other door (to see if perhaps my switches did something), and the door works without power to the rear latch. You can still open and close your sliding door even if rear latch assembly is discounted, so the digikey replacement switches don't seem to be the issue.
  5. So where else would power be eliminated from the sliding doors?
  6. Has anyone ever seen this anomaly in the threads? I've looked but it's just so much data around every door issue I can't isolate my particular.
  7. Discouraged and baffled at this point, any help much appreciated!

Also jumpered the codes and here's what came up:
  • DTC: B1386 PA:31
  • DTC: B1387 PA:31
  • DTC: B1221 PA:51
 
#156 ·
Had the cable for the driver's side slider break in my 2007 EX-L. Took everything apart, installed both new cables, and a new middle slider, as the old one was badly worn. After many slight adjustments, the door seems perfectly aligned, and will open perfectly with a single button press. Closing though, it slides perfectly until about 1" from closed, then stops. The latch appears to be perfectly aligned, but the secondary closing motor won't activate.

If I turn the door power off and slide the door by hand, it glides smoothly, then the secondary motor grabs it properly and closes it perfectly! I have tried the reset both by removing the fuse, waiting, then returning the fuse & moving the door manually, and by doing the same but with a long hold on the dash button, to no avail.

I cannot figure out what else could be an issue, help!
 
#157 ·
Hi ya, okay I’ve read through the entire thread and now am looking for confirmation on next steps. My driver’s side slider is working perfectly after replacing one of the microswitches that didn’t seem to be bad in the rear latch assembly and lubricating everything except it still does not open from the handle from the inside. The inside handle will close it if it’s open and stop and reverse it when closing but will not open it if it’s closed. Am I missing something? I’m about to just buy a new latch assembly but would like to have some assurance that will fix it. Thanks
 
#158 ·
What happens if you attempt to use the handle? Beeps? Sounds? No response? Maybe the part of the handle that attaches to the latch assembly is messed up.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#161 · (Edited)
Sadly, I am now a member of the sliding door issue club. My wife came home tonight about 30 minutes ago to report the driver’s sliding door was not working and the cable was broken and hanging out the side.

She said it was beeping all the way home. And she could not manually open or close the door. She said she turned the switch off on the dash. The passenger door works fine.

When I went to investigate, the door was closed but not fully latched. I verified the door would not operate in powered mode and with the switch off I could not manually open the door. I did manage to fully close it and I think it is now latched. The doors all locked properly and there is no open door indicator and no beeping. The broken cable is hanging outside through the rear latch side of the closed door.

I will have to further investigate tomorrow and read up on all the numerous posts here about failed door cables. I had replaced the center rollers on both doors about 5-6 years ago. I will inspect them to see if they are still good or not. I will replace again if necessary. Something caused the cable to break.

I’ve never had the interior panel off.
I will search through all the threads here, including this mega-thread.
I need to find out if I only have a failed cable if I can simply replace the cable or if I need to replace the motor assembly with the cable.

Hopefully the battery does not drain overnight. I do have it parked such that I can get a battery charger connected if need be.

Update: The battery seemed fine this morning; the engine started normally.
 
#162 ·
Sadly, I am now a member of the sliding door issue club. My wife came home tonight about 30 minutes ago to report the driver’s sliding door was not working and the cable was broken and hanging out the side.

She said it was beeping all the way home. And she could not manually open or close the door. She said she turned the switch off on the dash. The passenger door works fine.

When I went to investigate, the door was closed but not fully latched. I verified the door would not operate in powered mode and with the switch off I could not manually open the door. I did manage to fully close it and I think it is now latched. The doors all locked properly and there is no open door indicator and no beeping. The broken cable is hanging outside through the rear latch side of the closed door.

I will have to further investigate tomorrow and read up on all the numerous posts here about failed door cables. I had replaced the center rollers on both doors about 5-6 years ago.
I’ve never had the interior panel off.
I will search through all the threads here, including this mega-thread.
I need to find out if I only have a failed cable if I can simply replace the cable or if I need to replace the motor assembly with the cable.

Hopefully the battery does not drain overnight. I do have it parked such that I can get a battery charger connected if need be.
Sorry to hear that. Yes, the cable can technically be replaced, but it does take some time and effort. Though it may be worth it considering a brand new motor assembly would set you back over $400. Here is one video that's not necessarily the greatest but should give you an idea of what you are in for:

Generally the go to replacement cable comes from CarCableGuy:

Essentially, replacing the cable will cost you time but save you $250-300.

Removing the interior quarter panel trim to get to the motor is not so bad, especially on the driver's side when you don't have to fight with the rear HVAC system. The cable replacement on the driver's side can be done without removing the motor assembly and doing it on the bench, which is what you pretty much have to do for the passenger side as there's not much space to work in with the HVAC system there.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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#164 ·
Hello,

Got a used 2016 SE. Have continuous tone from Tone-Buzzer. Assumed it was due to Bulletin 16-074 since it matched my VIN and exact symptoms (Right/passanger rear latch latches and releases after maybe 3s).

Bought and replaced rear latch assembly a week ago. Also installed some Amazon center rollers while I was at it. Still continuous beep. Left it as is for a week, no change.

Today I tried to reset the sliding door, thinking it might need to re-learn something. Looked in the manual and followed:
  1. Erase the power sliding door DTCs by removing the No. B16 (10 A) fuse from the under-hood fuse/relay box.
  2. Turn off the Main switch for the doors. Make sure the ignition switch is in LOCK (0).
  3. Fully close the power sliding door manually (the control unit must see the full latch switch closed and the ratchet switch open at the same time).
  4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the Main switch.
  5. Test the door operation with the power sliding door switch, the remote transmitter, and the door handles.
And now... the right side does not work/answer at all. Can manually be opened/closed. Drivers side still works as normal.

Took a look with HDS, no DTC's and Right power sliding door Unit - detect.

Tried to remove negative from battery for 30x mins hoping it would reset something but no change (only thing was radio asked for a key).

Pretty much stuck at this point. Have read all threads/comments I could find but nothing really fits.

Figured this thread is my best chance of finding help or ideas, anyone with suggestions on what to do next?
 
#165 ·
re-reading my post and looking at #3 on reset procedure. Could be some issue with ratchet switch. Regardless if I manually open or close door it stays ON in HDS Data List. Leaning towards assuming switch itself is good after installing a brand new assembly.

Browsing manual says to replace control unit, hmm ouch.

three options for replacing it (that I can find):

1. replace with a used unit
2. replace with 72521-TK8-305 (seems control unit is included here for some reason...?)
3. replace motor assembly 72010-TK8-305 (also includes control unit)
 
#166 ·
Just read through the entire thread and maybe I missed this. Can someone help me please? I'll try to describe my issue in detail.

Bought a used 08 Ody 2.5 years ago and kept putting off the door roller fix. Finally decided to get the door rollers fixed. Looked easy enough.

Ordered Honda parts and I'm not a novice by any means at DIY car work. Felt confident I can handle this based on the help and howtos here and all the video guides I have seen.

Started with driver side. Changed roller, about to slide door to install bolts and door fell off the jack as I was starting to slide it in place.

This started the process to remove the door panel cover on the floor and whatnot to get it back in place and finally back on.

Onto the problem: door slides smoothly but doesn't latch closed. It was as though the U shaped lock receiver on the frame on the car is now not in alignment with the mechanism on the sliding door. Tried a test with it not on and it shut all the day without any resistance. So, removed one bolt and made the U slightly lock cockeyed to align with the door.

Now, the door locks, dash door open indicator is no longer on, but the door isn't fully closed and I can hear the air whooshing by that door.

After performing the swap, the door open switch was also not getting depressed fully, so had to add a tiny felt pad sticker on the door to make sure it was enough to depress the switch.


The swap without any issues on the passenger door. Has anyone seen this?

This is my first time posting here. Sorry if I broke any rules. Long long time lurker and can't thank the help I have received from all the posts.
 
#167 ·
I think you did it backwards. I don't think the U is not aligned with the door, I think the door is not aligned with the U. When it falls, it's possible for things to get bent out of shape. By moving the latch striker all you've done is sort of addressed the symptoms without addressing the cause.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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#169 ·
Often what happens is the bottom roller gets messed up since all the weight is on that when it falls.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
#171 ·
Long time lurker here first time poster. My bottom roller on the driver's side is messed up. Previous owners probably let their kids stand on it. There is lots of slop in and out if you pull on that part of the door. Does anyone know if this part can be fixed or if not, what the part number is? The schematics available online are not very clear.
 
#172 ·
Long time lurker here first time poster
Welcome to the OdyClub.

Any progress on your issue w/lower roller mechanism?

This lower roller assembly is rarely discussed here, irrc.
I'll guess cause it is robust. Few issue reported.
Only issue I recall is a spring that breaks/fails under big black plate, that may hold door open irrc.

When I was replacing a mid slider roller, I F ed up, it dropped, the whole slider door literally feel off.
Like I had read about. o_O
Never thought it would happen to me, a master of . . . lol :rolleyes:
I freaked. I thought I broke all (upper/lower) the rollers and whatnot.
Especially that lower weird complex assembly.

The only connection that did not disconnect was that lower slider assembly.

Needless to say, with help, I was able to reattach door, and all was well.
The upper roller feel out. I had disconnected the mid roller, only thing connected was lower.
I was sure I had destroyed the lower.
But after reassembly all was well somehow.
And it dropped 9 - 12 inches. o_O

Anyway, I was sure I messed it all up, but once reset, it was fine surprisingly.

So lower roller assembly is robust in my experience.

I'll assume you have checked the lower roller channel for debris?

Just sharing my experience.

Keep us informed of yours.

HTH

ETA; Can you post video of your lower slop?
 
#176 ·
First timer here and I can tell I’ll be back quite a bit. I have a 2006 Odyssey with close to 180,000 miles on it.

I have several issues with my passenger side door that most of the thread seems to address well. The beeping when put in drive, the halfway close and then reverse back to open… all that stuff I found answers for.

The one thing I didn’t see mentioned was when the door opens 80% of the way and then stops. It seems to occur randomly but the door slides open just fine until it’s about 8 inches (give or take) from the end of the track before it stops. Not the most savvy with cars so I’ve only tried to open and close it or give it a little push to see if it will open the rest of the way. No luck.

I have a car seat on that side and when this happens, I have to reach around the door a little to get my kid out. It doesn’t happen often but enough that I figure I’d ask the question. Thoughts?
 
#177 ·
Welcome to this forum. The first (and easy) thing I would do is lubricate the sliding door track/rail and inspect it for any issues such as dents, obstructions, etc...
Also, make sure the rollers are all good.
 
#182 ·
Odymama25 - I have the same issue with door not opening all the way on the passenger side. Had me puzzled so I posted a separate note and Wiimaster clarified that the car has a way to stop short of the full travel when the window is not fully closed. My window appears to be fully closed so I'm assuming the issue may be the sensor that checks window position. I haven't explored this yet but is may be that the window is closed but the car doesn't know it. I did notice is opened all the way after a reset, but it only did it once or twice and then returned to the 3/4 stop position. It does make it hard to use a kid seat on that side, so I'm going to do some exploring and see what I can figure out. I'll post what I discover - I wasn't aware the car had the window open short travel feature but I did note a small lever in the bottom roller arm that moves to prevent full travel. Will have to see how the door detects that the window isn't closed and see how to correct it.