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2007 Honda Odyssey ex-L

Issue: Both Rear Automatic Doors Don't work regardless of using the key fob, Dash buttons, or pulling on the door handle. They do automatically seal themselves if you close them manually.

Info: Sliding Door Light NOT illuminated. When Pushing buttons on left of steering wheel, keyfob, or pulling door handle there is absolutely signs of life. (No clicking, no movement, etc...)

Troubleshooting Steps: I have tried following the guide here on the forum a few times, where you pull fuses on both drivers & passenger side, open/close doors, and replacing fuses. Didn't help.

If anyone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it! Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #122 ·
2007 Honda Odyssey ex-L

Issue: Both Rear Automatic Doors Don't work regardless of using the key fob, Dash buttons, or pulling on the door handle. They do automatically seal themselves if you close them manually.

Info: Sliding Door Light NOT illuminated. When Pushing buttons on left of steering wheel, keyfob, or pulling door handle there is absolutely signs of life. (No clicking, no movement, etc...)

Troubleshooting Steps: I have tried following the guide here on the forum a few times, where you pull fuses on both drivers & passenger side, open/close doors, and replacing fuses. Didn't help.

If anyone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it! Thanks.
Did you make sure the main switch is in the on position so that the doors are in automatic mode?
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
The fix was actually really easy. I mentioned that I reset the fuse, right? Apparently, the door refused to work until after I entered the security passcode into the radio (after the reset). Once the code was properly entered, the door immediately began to work again.

I hope this helps someone.
I am sitting here with your exact issue, was about to start pulling the door apart to clean out the rear latch like I had to do 6 months ago on the passenger side (even though the symptoms were different - no beeps, only latching in manual mode and not power mode), instead, I go in and put the code in, voila! Both doors work now as intended!

You literally just saved me from at least an hour of labor, which convinced me to switch from lurking to making an account just to say thank you!
 
OK, I've read the whole book on sliding door issues....LOADS of good info! However, unless I missed it, I couldn't find my specific issue. If someone can direct me to the repair thread, I would appreciate it:)
I have a 2007 EXL with passenger side sliding door issues. The door will not open with the key fob, the door switch or either inside or outside door handles. There are no Sliding Door error lights illuminated on the dash. In fact, when i try to use a door handle, it doesn't sound or feel like there is any mechanical connection to the latch assembly! The handles move freely but they doesn't feel like they are trying to unlatch the door. Also, since this issue arose, I've been experiencing a parasitic drain on the battery that kills the battery if not used for two days.
I'd be surprised if someone hasn't described the same issue on this forum, but I couldn't seem to find it. Please re-direct me to the thread or provide some direction if you can.
Thanks to all... in advance.
 
OK, I've read the whole book on sliding door issues....LOADS of good info! However, unless I missed it, I couldn't find my specific issue. If someone can direct me to the repair thread, I would appreciate it:)
I have a 2007 EXL with passenger side sliding door issues. The door will not open with the key fob, the door switch or either inside or outside door handles. There are no Sliding Door error lights illuminated on the dash. In fact, when i try to use a door handle, it doesn't sound or feel like there is any mechanical connection to the latch assembly! The handles move freely but they doesn't feel like they are trying to unlatch the door. Also, since this issue arose, I've been experiencing a parasitic drain on the battery that kills the battery if not used for two days.
I'd be surprised if someone hasn't described the same issue on this forum, but I couldn't seem to find it. Please re-direct me to the thread or provide some direction if you can.
Thanks to all... in advance.
First off, there is no sliding door error light, only the door open or closed indicator.
Second, one of the most common symptoms of a faulty rear latch is a 0.4 amp parasitic battery drain as described in the first post of this thread. I suspect you have a bad rear latch, which is very common.


The “looseness” of the handle may be a separate issue.
 
First off, there is no sliding door error light, only the door open or closed indicator.
Second, one of the most common symptoms of a faulty rear latch is a 0.4 amp parasitic battery drain as described in the first post of this thread. I suspect you have a bad rear latch, which is very common.


The “looseness” of the handle may be a separate issue.
Since I cannot open the door, is it possible to remove the inner door panel to inspect the cables and rear latch assembly with the door in the Closed position?
 
Since I cannot open the door, is it possible to remove the inner door panel to inspect the cables and rear latch assembly with the door in the Closed position?
I think there is a way to do this but I do not know the procedure.
 
Discussion starter · #128 ·
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
Discussion starter · #130 ·
interesting. I was not aware. What does it look like?
It is the Slide Door light referenced in the owner's manual. Looks like this, located in the upper right of the cluster:
Image


Turn your ignition to ON and you'll see it during bulb check :)

This light indicates that there is a B-CAN DTC stored that can be read using a good scanner like the Foxwell or via the well known foil trick.

Also, when this light is illuminated, the sliding door motor on the affected side is disabled, so the door will only work manually.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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It is the Slide Door light referenced in the owner's manual. Looks like this, located in the upper right of the cluster:
View attachment 183092

Turn your ignition to ON and you'll see it during bulb check :)

This light indicates that there is a B-CAN DTC stored that can be read using a good scanner like the Foxwell or via the well known foil trick.

Also, when this light is illuminated, the sliding door motor on the affected side is disabled, so the door will only work manually.
Interesting. I do not believe I have this on my 2010 EX-L, but I will check tomorrow.

Update: I do see it in the owners manual so it must be there. Never noticed it before.

Update #2: I did verify that this warning light is indeed on my 2010 instrument panel. Always good to learn new things.
Image
 
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Discussion starter · #132 ·
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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Well...after using every swear word in my back yard dictionary, I finally got the door open enough to allow me to remove the bolts from the roller assembly. This allowed me to open the door a bit further to enable removal of the inner door panel. I then removed the rear door latch assembly. The two green micro switches appear to be working correctly when testing continuity with a meter. The "ratchet" is where I suspect an issue. When I move the mechanism thru it's positions there is continuity between the ground and one of the wires, but when the ratchet switch goes to the full counter clockwise position there is not continuity to the other wire. I've used brake cleaner to clean up all the parts and it does look like the ratchet switch does now rotate slightly more, but not enough to achieve continuity. When I removed the switch and rotated it slightly further, the wires do have continuity. I assume the switch is bad. Where can I locate one of these ratchet switches?... or am I doing something wrong?
 
Well...after using every swear word in my back yard dictionary, I finally got the door open enough to allow me to remove the bolts from the roller assembly. This allowed me to open the door a bit further to enable removal of the inner door panel. I then removed the rear door latch assembly. The two green micro switches appear to be working correctly when testing continuity with a meter. The "ratchet" is where I suspect an issue. When I move the mechanism thru it's positions there is continuity between the ground and one of the wires, but when the ratchet switch goes to the full counter clockwise position there is not continuity to the other wire. I've used brake cleaner to clean up all the parts and it does look like the ratchet switch does now rotate slightly more, but not enough to achieve continuity. When I removed the switch and rotated it slightly further, the wires do have continuity. I assume the switch is bad. Where can I locate one of these ratchet switches?... or am I doing something wrong?
The Panasonic microswitches are available from Digi Key website. They are blue, not green. The latch uses both NO and NC switches, so you need to know which is which.
I would recommend you replace all 3 visible switches. Let me know if you need to part numbers.
 
I finally got the door open enough to allow me to remove the bolts from the roller assembly
With the center roller removed from the door- can you move the roller along the track? Make sure the Slide Door switch is Off to switch it to manual. If the roller with cables attached won't move- there's your problem! Cables jammed probably because a cable had snapped and jammed in the motor spool. If the cables move smoothly, carry on with the rear latch!
 
With the center roller removed from the door- can you move the roller along the track? Make sure the Slide Door switch is Off to switch it to manual. If the roller with cables attached won't move- there's your problem! Cables jammed probably because a cable had snapped and jammed in the motor spool. If the cables move smoothly, carry on with the rear latch!
I'm not sure if your reference to the "center roller" is the same piece that I disconnected from the back of the door. The piece I disconnected is connected to the cables and does not move when the Slide Door Switch is in Off position. The cables appear to be under a small amount of tension...nothing that looks unusual to me.
 
Discussion starter · #137 ·
I'm not sure if your reference to the "center roller" is the same piece that I disconnected from the back of the door. The piece I disconnected is connected to the cables and does not move when the Slide Door Switch is in Off position. The cables appear to be under a small amount of tension...nothing that looks unusual to me.
Yes, the center roller is what is connected to the cables. You should be able to slide it along the track.
 
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bigjoncoop
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07 Honda Odyssey Ex-L, 135k,
Joined Jan 22, 2024
11 Posts
#121 · Apr 15, 2024

2007 Honda Odyssey ex-L

Issue: Both Rear Automatic Doors Don't work regardless of using the key fob, Dash buttons, or pulling on the door handle. They do automatically seal themselves if you close them manually.

Info: Sliding Door Light NOT illuminated. When Pushing buttons on left of steering wheel, keyfob, or pulling door handle there is absolutely signs of life. (No clicking, no movement, etc...)

Troubleshooting Steps: I have tried following the guide here on the forum a few times, where you pull fuses on both drivers & passenger side, open/close doors, and replacing fuses. Didn't help.

If anyone could point me in the right direction I'd appreciate it! Thanks.

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WiiMaster
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Bolt - 2006 Honda Odyssey (EX)
Joined Jul 26, 2016
12,032 Posts
Discussion starter · #122 · Apr 15, 2024


Did you make sure the main switch is in the on position so that the doors are in automatic mode?

The Fleet:
Bolt - 2006 Honda Odyssey - EX - Ocean Mist Metallic - 110k miles - Bought brand new in August 2006, never any major repairs, possibly the most reliable Odyssey on the road
Victus - 2012 Honda Accord - EX-L V6 - Crystal Black Pearl - 37k miles - Bought used in July 2022 with 23k miles
2010 Honda Accord - LX - Polished Metal Metallic - 92k miles - Bought used in September 2012 with 11k miles Wrecked

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ryancachilli
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#123 · Apr 17, 2024


I am sitting here with your exact issue, was about to start pulling the door apart to clean out the rear latch like I had to do 6 months ago on the passenger side (even though the symptoms were different - no beeps, only latching in manual mode and not power mode), instead, I go in and put the code in, voila! Both doors work now as intended!

You literally just saved me from at least an hour of labor, which convinced me to switch from lurking to making an account just to say thank you!

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randywolkowski
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Joined Oct 30, 2021
7 Posts
#124 · 1d ago

OK, I've read the whole book on sliding door issues....LOADS of good info! However, unless I missed it, I couldn't find my specific issue. If someone can direct me to the repair thread, I would appreciate it:)
I have a 2007 EXL with passenger side sliding door issues. The door will not open with the key fob, the door switch or either inside or outside door handles. There are no Sliding Door error lights illuminated on the dash. In fact, when i try to use a door handle, it doesn't sound or feel like there is any mechanical connection to the latch assembly! The handles move freely but they doesn't feel like they are trying to unlatch the door. Also, since this issue arose, I've been experiencing a parasitic drain on the battery that kills the battery if not used for two days.
I'd be surprised if someone hasn't described the same issue on this forum, but I couldn't seem to find it. Please re-direct me to the thread or provide some direction if you can.
Thanks to all... in advance.

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thscott
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2010 EX-L
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#125 · 1d ago


First off, there is no sliding door error light, only the door open or closed indicator.
Second, one of the most common symptoms of a faulty rear latch is a 0.4 amp parasitic battery drain as described in the first post of this thread. I suspect you have a bad rear latch, which is very common.


The “looseness” of the handle may be a separate issue.

2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L; 160,000 miles; VCM is Muzzled (original VCMuzzler)
Cleveland, Ohio USA
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randywolkowski
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#126 · 1d ago


Since I cannot open the door, is it possible to remove the inner door panel to inspect the cables and rear latch assembly with the door in the Closed position?

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thscott
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#127 · 23h ago


I think there is a way to do this but I do not know the procedure.

2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L; 160,000 miles; VCM is Muzzled (original VCMuzzler)
Cleveland, Ohio USA
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WiiMaster
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Discussion starter · #128 · 22h ago


Yes there is

The Fleet:
Bolt - 2006 Honda Odyssey - EX - Ocean Mist Metallic - 110k miles - Bought brand new in August 2006, never any major repairs, possibly the most reliable Odyssey on the road
Victus - 2012 Honda Accord - EX-L V6 - Crystal Black Pearl - 37k miles - Bought used in July 2022 with 23k miles
2010 Honda Accord - LX - Polished Metal Metallic - 92k miles - Bought used in September 2012 with 11k miles Wrecked

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thscott
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#129 · 21h ago


interesting. I was not aware. What does it look like?

2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L; 160,000 miles; VCM is Muzzled (original VCMuzzler)
Cleveland, Ohio USA
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WiiMaster
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Discussion starter · #130 · 19h ago


It is the Slide Door light referenced in the owner's manual. Looks like this, located in the upper right of the cluster:


Turn your ignition to ON and you'll see it during bulb check :)

This light indicates that there is a B-CAN DTC stored that can be read using a good scanner like the Foxwell or via the well known foil trick.

Also, when this light is illuminated, the sliding door motor on the affected side is disabled, so the door will only work manually.


The Fleet:
Bolt - 2006 Honda Odyssey - EX - Ocean Mist Metallic - 110k miles - Bought brand new in August 2006, never any major repairs, possibly the most reliable Odyssey on the road
Victus - 2012 Honda Accord - EX-L V6 - Crystal Black Pearl - 37k miles - Bought used in July 2022 with 23k miles
2010 Honda Accord - LX - Polished Metal Metallic - 92k miles - Bought used in September 2012 with 11k miles Wrecked

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thscott
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#131 · 14h ago (Edited)


Interesting. I do not believe I have this on my 2010 EX-L, but I will check tomorrow.

Update: I do see it in the owners manual so it must be there. Never noticed it before.

Update #2: I did verify that this warning light is indeed on my 2010 instrument panel. Always good to learn new things.



2010 Honda Odyssey EX-L; 160,000 miles; VCM is Muzzled (original VCMuzzler)
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If you have the part numbers that would be greatly appreciated!


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randywolkowski
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#133 · 45m ago

Well...after using every swear word in my back yard dictionary, I finally got the door open enough to allow me to remove the bolts from the roller assembly. This allowed me to open the door a bit further to enable removal of the inner door panel. I then removed the rear door latch assembly. The two green micro switches appear to be working correctly when testing continuity with a meter. The "ratchet" is where I suspect an issue. When I move the mechanism thru it's positions there is continuity between the ground and one of the wires, but when the ratchet switch goes to the full counter clockwise position there is not continuity to the other wire. I've used brake cleaner to clean up all the parts and it does look like the ratchet switch does now rotate slightly more, but not enough to achieve continuity. When I removed the switch and rotated it slightly further, the wires do have continuity. I assume the switch is bad. Where can I locate one of these ratchet switches?... or am I doing something wrong?

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thscott

The part numbers would be

Thscott, I would appreciate it very much if you could provide the appropriate P/N's for all three switches. FYI, the 2-wire switches on my latch are Green! The ratchet switch is Black with a Green crank arm.
You may want to delete your post #136. You somehow quoted everything in the thread since #121. It’s all screwed up.
 
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