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Welcome to this forum. I assume that you determined your battery drain issue was caused by the sliding door(s) rear latch? You did not explicitly indicate if your pulling of fuse 7 resolved the battery drain issue or not. installing the switched fuse seems like a good temporary fix.
You may want to consider fixing the issue for good by dealing with the rear latch micro switch issue as described in this thread. Are you having any sliding door issues?
Well, I don't know for sure whether the fuse switch will fix the problem, but ever since I started pulling the fuse, the problem went away and it was really only a intermittent problem.
yes one of the doors does not work at all except manually
 
Discussion starter · #82 ·
Well why not fix the actual problem?
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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Hello, I am hoping for some advice. The driver side sliding door will not open for me, but the passenger side works fine. I have checked the secondary under the hood fuses, and no change. I swapped the fuses on the odd chance it was something I missed with the fuse and no change.

I reset the #7 fuse on driver side and nothing changed. I checked the fuel door switch, it is working fine. Manually pressing/depressing the fuel door sensor, you can hear the door locks/unlocks.

It is possible to manually open the driver side sliding door. The door locks, power window works. However, trying to open that door there is no audio cue at all. No beep, nothing.

There appears to be no parasitic drain, as this is seldom used car, regularly days or weeks between uses. It always starts fine.

I searched the forum and read this thread, and I didn't see anyone mention a like for like problem.

Any ideas?
 
Hello, I am hoping for some advice. The driver side sliding door will not open for me, but the passenger side works fine. I have checked the secondary under the hood fuses, and no change. I swapped the fuses on the odd chance it was something I missed with the fuse and no change.

I reset the #7 fuse on driver side and nothing changed. I checked the fuel door switch, it is working fine. Manually pressing/depressing the fuel door sensor, you can hear the door locks/unlocks.

It is possible to manually open the driver side sliding door. The door locks, power window works. However, trying to open that door there is no audio cue at all. No beep, nothing.

There appears to be no parasitic drain, as this is seldom used car, regularly days or weeks between uses. It always starts fine.

I searched the forum and read this thread, and I didn't see anyone mention a like for like problem.

Any ideas?
Did you try opening the driver side door manually?? I mean it is supposed to open... Mine is an 07 and it won't open manually or power assisted.

However if the manual mode is selected it is supposed be possible to open both doors this way.
 
Welcome to the OdyClub!
Hello, I am hoping for some advice. The driver side sliding door will not open for me, but the passenger side works fine. I have checked the secondary under the hood fuses, and no change. I swapped the fuses on the odd chance it was something I missed with the fuse and no change.
My issue was resolved after doing the reset procedure.
I reset the #7 fuse on driver side and nothing changed. I checked the fuel door switch, it is working fine. Manually pressing/depressing the fuel door sensor, you can hear the door locks/unlocks.
I think removing/replacing that fuse and then opening/closing the door manually resets it.
The problem turned out to be the cable, which was bound up within the sheath between the motor and the front side of the middle roller. We thought maybe it was bound up in the motor, but the first cable cut didn't free it. A second cut just in the slight door crack, on the unsheathed cable did the trick. It was just stuck inside the sheath, and the roller operates manually just fine.
It is possible to manually open the driver side sliding door. The door locks, power window works. However, trying to open that door there is no audio cue at all. No beep, nothing.
Oh- so the door opens manually, so the above quote does not apply.
So with the Slide Door switch on, it will not open if you press the driver slide door switch?
And it does not open if you pull the inner or outer door handle?
And it does not open from the fob but the passenger door does?
When you open/close it manually, does it move smoothly?
Is the SLIDE DOOR light on in the gauge cluster?
 
So with the Slide Door switch on, it will not open if you press the driver slide door switch?
Nope. Does not open.

And it does not open if you pull the inner or outer door handle?
And it does not open from the fob but the passenger door does?
When you open/close it manually, does it move smoothly?
Is the SLIDE DOOR light on in the gauge cluster?
Does not open if I pull inner or outer door handle. The FOB opens the passenger door, but the driver side door in question does not respond. No beep or anything. Don't hear anything engage, click, etc....

When you open/close it manually, does it move smoothly?
Is the SLIDE DOOR light on in the gauge cluster?
Other than the hard resistance that occurs when opening the initial door, it does [seem to] move smoothly on the track. I don't know how this compares to non-powered sliding doors though, i.e. what is "hard" vs "soft; moreover what is "normal."

The SD indicator on the driver console light up when I open manually.
 
Nope. Does not open.
These doors are problematic. I just had issues with each door separately today (what are the odds? Pretty good in these old vans I guess), first the pax side wouldn’t open automatically then the driver door wouldn’t open at all.

I have lubed latches and replaced rollers in the past but never unable to open a door at all. After taking someone's direction from another (?) thread after searching (thanks whoever that was!) I was able to kick open the driver door (power doors switch off then a firm kick out at the rear from inside at the same time you open the handle) and re-WD40 the rear latches on both and now I’m back to fully functional.

The moral: It's probably the rear latch. It usually is.
 
Discussion starter · #88 ·
These doors are problematic. I just had issues with each door separately today (what are the odds? Pretty good in these old vans I guess
Not really.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
I have kind of given up on an immediate resolution to this weird quirk. I am reluctant to start removing the door panel and track cover to poke around without having at least a vague idea of the problem. I'm guessing it's something small and inconspicuous that's causing the problem.
 
I recently bought an 07 ex odyssey that I'm turning into a work van for my appliance repair business.

The slide door light is on and the battery is draining slowly.
Because this is going to be a work van, I'd prefer that the doors be manual all of the time anyways.
Is it possible to trick the computer into thinking everything is fine, stopping the battery drain, and shutting off that light? I'm swamped right now and simply don't have the time to diagnose and fix this system. I'd rather just bypass all of the complex sensors and electronics and have entirely manual doors if possible.

Thanks for your help
 
I recently bought an 07 ex odyssey that I'm turning into a work van for my appliance repair business.

The slide door light is on and the battery is draining slowly.
Because this is going to be a work van, I'd prefer that the doors be manual all of the time anyways.
Is it possible to trick the computer into thinking everything is fine, stopping the battery drain, and shutting off that light? I'm swamped right now and simply don't have the time to diagnose and fix this system. I'd rather just bypass all of the complex sensors and electronics and have entirely manual doors if possible.

Thanks for your help
Nope
 
Discussion starter · #93 ·
I recently bought an 07 ex odyssey that I'm turning into a work van for my appliance repair business.

The slide door light is on and the battery is draining slowly.
Because this is going to be a work van, I'd prefer that the doors be manual all of the time anyways.
Is it possible to trick the computer into thinking everything is fine, stopping the battery drain, and shutting off that light? I'm swamped right now and simply don't have the time to diagnose and fix this system. I'd rather just bypass all of the complex sensors and electronics and have entirely manual doors if possible.

Thanks for your help
Just a reminder that the powered rear latch is still used regardless of whether the doors are powered or manual. You'll notice, even if you turn off the power door switch to operate the doors in manual mode, the power rear latch still kicks in when you manually close the door. There's no getting around it.

It's really not that "complex". These doors have all of 3 common failure points and none of them are super complicated to address.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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Just a reminder that the powered rear latch is still used regardless of whether the doors are powered or manual. You'll notice, even if you turn off the power door switch to operate the doors in manual mode, the power rear latch still kicks in when you manually close the door. There's no getting around it.

It's really not that "complex". These doors have all of 3 common failure points and none of them are super complicated to address.
If the door is closed with gusto, will the latch engage even if there is no power to the rear latch? Many vans operate just fine without a powered rear latch. The addition of this system with all of its extra sensors and motors sure seems complex to me
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
If the door is closed with gusto, will the latch engage even if there is no power to the rear latch? Many vans operate just fine without a powered rear latch. The addition of this system with all of its extra sensors and motors sure seems complex to me
Odysseys that came with manual sliding doors from the factory (manual sliding doors) do not have the powered rear latch. So probably.

It's still not as complicated as you think. The time and money spent trying to bypass the system could easily be spent just fixing the actual problem, especially when years of experience on this forum has pretty much already done the diagnosis for you.

It would be silly to reinvent the wheel because you have a flat tire...
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
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The #7 fuse. But you'll want to put it back in before driving it.
I have a .43amp drain, and was pretty sure it's the PSD on driver's side (since I have so many of the other symptoms).
Just to verify, we did a test with a meter by pulling every fuse one by one, and the #7 fuse had no effect. Of course, it was the last fuse we tried (because it required removal of a screw): #23 under the hood, which says it is for the "Ignition Switch and Power Window Relay, Fuse (Passenger Compartment Fuse Box #1): #27, 28".
Could it still somehow be the PSD? I haven't been able to determine if the PSD is somehow fed thru the #23 fuse. Any idea of another possible cause of the drain (tried searching site, but didn't find anything specific to #23)?
I was able to "hip check" the door fully closed and then manually lock it to avoid the indicator light and beeping and have not unlocked it since. If I hadn't, I might have found an even higher drain?
Any thoughts? Thanks.
 
Discussion starter · #97 ·
I have a .43amp drain, and was pretty sure it's the PSD on driver's side (since I have so many of the other symptoms).
Just to verify, we did a test with a meter by pulling every fuse one by one, and the #7 fuse had no effect. Of course, it was the last fuse we tried (because it required removal of a screw): #23 under the hood, which says it is for the "Ignition Switch and Power Window Relay, Fuse (Passenger Compartment Fuse Box #1): #27, 28".
Could it still somehow be the PSD? I haven't been able to determine if the PSD is somehow fed thru the #23 fuse. Any idea of another possible cause of the drain (tried searching site, but didn't find anything specific to #23)?
I was able to "hip check" the door fully closed and then manually lock it to avoid the indicator light and beeping and have not unlocked it since. If I hadn't, I might have found an even higher drain?
Any thoughts? Thanks.
The pulling the fuse test is stupid and a waste of time. Do it the right way and verify:
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
Can you elaborate? what will happen if its not put back in?
Fuse #23 in the main, under the hood panel, controls ignition, so if it is removed, the van won't start. Can't leave it out. :( As long as I start her up and drive her a bit every day, she's not dying on me, so at least there's that.
I suspected an aftermarket blue tooth might be the culprit and asked around and was told that could be the draw. I have since taken the van to an aftermarket install specialist and they took a quick peek at the blue tooth, and informed me that there is an aftermarket remote starter installed as well! Who knew?! He told me there appear to be 3 A.M. devices installed, and one, or all, could be the culprit. Apparently, the blue tooth is connected to two power sources (one being the ignition - hello fuse 23). And of course, the remote start would have an engine kill (ignition? again, fuse 23?). I am going to have them pull the A.M. Bluetooth first (it's broken anyway) to see if that solves the issue. I'm hoping we can salvage the remote start, as that would be cool to have, but we'll see...
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
Fuse #23 in the main, under the hood panel, controls ignition, so if it is removed, the van won't start. Can't leave it out. :( As long as I start her up and drive her a bit every day, she's not dying on me, so at least there's that.
I suspected an aftermarket blue tooth might be the culprit and asked around and was told that could be the draw. I have since taken the van to an aftermarket install specialist and they took a quick peek at the blue tooth, and informed me that there is an aftermarket remote starter installed as well! Who knew?! He told me there appear to be 3 A.M. devices installed, and one, or all, could be the culprit. Apparently, the blue tooth is connected to two power sources (one being the ignition - hello fuse 23). And of course, the remote start would have an engine kill (ignition? again, fuse 23?). I am going to have them pull the A.M. Bluetooth first (it's broken anyway) to see if that solves the issue. I'm hoping we can salvage the remote start, as that would be cool to have, but we'll see...
They were referring to the #7 fuse, not that. And I already responded to them.
 
owns 2006 Honda Odyssey EX
RE: a failed rear latch assembly… FWIW, it’s possible to refurbish the existing microswitch on the harness. I traced my B2038 error to a faulty base position switch: ABJ39242 (NC). I was pressed for time, and didn’t have anything to lose vs. paying/waiting for a new switch or latch assembly. So I used a tiny jewelers flat blade screwdriver to very carefully remove the top cap. Underneath, the contacts were gummed up with 19 years of black grime. A Q-tip, some isopropyl alcohol, and a scrap of 1000 grit sandpaper between the contacts cleaned it right up, and a multimeter confirmed consistent operation. Total cost: ~$0, ~15 mins, no soldering required.

Note: If you overpry and break some of the 4 tiny tangs that secure the top cap, you can probably just glue it back in place.

Image
 
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