[18OdysseyLou]

I have 93k on 18 ody. No KYB , I looked too. Bought Monroe shocks, and definitely quality difference between OEM and aftermarket.
For us, the issue was rear coil springs. They were shot. The van sat too low, bottomed out, and just poor ride. It became noticably worse the past 20k. Springs backordered!!!!
Finally found parts off eBay from a flood damaged donor 21 with only 761 miles. Installed them Monday night, and now the height of the rear is where it should be. It also rides much better.
I am still waiting on OEM parts from Honda automotive parts. Front struts, springs, mounts, bearings, and rear shocks. Rather eat the $90 on 5he Monroe's and go OEM. Parts are a pain to get. Backordered shocks.

Glad you found the source of the noise. We have a slight noise over little bumps in rear. Nothing is loose, and I am guessing stabilizer links or bushings. I even sat in back well while wife drove to try to isolate where noise was coming from. Since the links and bushings are inexpensive, I will try that.
Since I just had the wheels off to replace the springs, the calipers are fine.

 

[DJVAN]

@digitalextremes

Wow, your top seal really let loose on your shock! How many miles are you looking at? Has the other side let loose as well? Over the last 25 years or so it has seemed like the front struts were always the one that let go first. But cars older than 25 years old the rear shocks would loose their seals,seemed to me if I remember right about at the 24,000 mile area. That's what the manufacturers gave their warranty at... And I am surprised these are oil filled instead of gas. Mine has not leaked out any oil at all, in that sense I have been lucky. The only oil leak I get it from the oil filter change out, even using a plastic bag on it when taking it out, it seems I will still get a few drips some where and wipe them off as much as I can see.

 

[DJVAN]

@tdelco
I would have bought Honda's shocks if they had them is stock or if could have got them in a reasonable amount of time. Next choice was KYB's, but they don't make the rear shocks at all. Why would they make the front struts and not the rear shocks? Some things in the GEN 5 HODY seems to be really different than the older GEN 1-4.

 

[digitalextremes]

@digitalextremes

Wow, your top seal really let loose on your shock! How many miles are you looking at? Has the other side let loose as well? Over the last 25 years or so it has seemed like the front struts were always the one that let go first. But cars older than 25 years old the rear shocks would loose their seals,seemed to me if I remember right about at the 24,000 mile area. That's what the manufacturers gave their warranty at... And I am surprised these are oil filled instead of gas. Mine has not leaked out any oil at all, in that sense I have been lucky. The only oil leak I get it from the oil filter change out, even using a plastic bag on it when taking it out, it seems I will still get a few drips some where and wipe them off as much as I can see.

About 60,000 kms

Only if I knew Honda quality has degraded so much before I bought it, I would have never bought a Honda. Just so many issues.

Different topic but here is how my rear window seal looks like below the glass. It’s parked in the same driveway where my 12yr old Toyota is but that one has no rubber issues.

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[DJVAN]

@18OdysseyLou
Do you carry a constant load in your rear cargo compartment? I have replaced a lot of shocks/coils off a lot of customer vehicles before especially those that had large trunks. They stored a lot of items in there, trash/baseball-gear/tools (whole 6 drawer sets)/sandbags year around not understanding it uses more fuel and ruins the suspension much faster, I refused to do front-end alignments in a car that had anything in the rear that was not for handicap need. One salesman had the trunk fitted with boxes exacting sizes filled with files/paper. I would have estimated 500 pounds easily, and informed him he would have to remove all of it if I did his entire suspension system replacement and alignment and he refused to so I told him to find somewhere else to do it for him. I do admit I have a small electric wheelchair in my rear cargo space, about 55 pounds, but I use it depending on my back/hip/knee pains on most days.

 

[DJVAN]

@digitalextremes
I am definitely going to have to watch my rear shocks closer than I have been if yours went out at 37K miles.

Your rear window seal is horrid! I am glad my ODY is in a garage now as it seems MiniVans have this problem. Dodge/Chrysler-Plymouth/Ford/Chevy MiniVans were really plagued with this which caused premature rusting on the tailgate, unless it had a plastic or fiberglass tailgate.

The solution is to replace your window seal, than once a month apply a rubber sealant on the window seal called 303 Automotive Protectant. This is a great rubber protection on all things rubber, even tires for weather checking. You should be able to get this at Amazon or some automotive parts stores. It's terrible that Honda mad these window seals out of such poor grade rubber and they should have put some silicone in them to preserve their life.

 

[kitol]

@digitalextremes
I am definitely going to have to watch my rear shocks closer than I have been if yours went out at 37K miles.

Your rear window seal is horrid! I am glad my ODY is i a garage now as it seems MiniVans have this problem. Dodge/Chrysler-Plymouth/Ford/Chevy MiniVans were really plagued with this which caused premature rusting on the tailgate, unless it had a plastic or fiberglass tailgate.

The solution is to replace your window seal, than once a month apply a rubber sealant on the window seal called 303 Automotive Protectant. This is a great rubber protection on all things rubber, even tires for weather checking. You should be able to get this at Amazon or some automotive parts stores. It's terrible that Honda mad these window seals out of such poor grade rubber and they should have put some silicone in them to preserve their life.

yeah, or if more affordable, ATP-205--might be cheaper for high volume needs, but we'd also need to do paint-test check first to make sure it doesn't mar the paint. It does work brilliantly on preserving any rubber including the axle boots. But now i see the prices for it are almost double from a year or two ago, so price may not work for most ppl. (it's a transmission sealer which is the only product that quite a few mechanics recommend for trans and even non trans leaks sometimes).

 

[DJVAN]

Well, I finished up my brake (caliper bolt missing causing the dull thud sound). What a nightmare. One of our local Honda dealers had ordered the bolts and I ordered the brake pads with pad retainers/clips. They wanted $144 for it, and I told them NO! I was quoted on a phone call $67 for the items and told them I wanted to pay for it before I picked them up on 8/3/22 by credit card. They said wait until I came in to pay for them. I wound having to pay $77. They said Honda had changed the part number to 43022-TZ5-A11, now there is no way the price should double itself for pads (even the caliper bolts). It took me 20 minutes to get them to change the price to what I was quoted (still had to pay $10 more). I guess for now I will have to order and pay my parts on-line and wait for them to come.

Now the pads. When I yanker the right rear caliper and pads, I could not determine how the retainers held the pads in as the little spring coil on the retainers was broke off. I could not get the pads into the caliper bracket, so I pulled the bracket off the knuckle to see how it was supposed to fit. After twisting the bracket to the right orientation several times and then finding the secret of pushing the pad at a angle behind the retainer spring coil and snapping it straight. It worked! left the pads on the bracket and reinstalled on the knuckle. Whew! Mounted the caliper with the new caliper bolts and saw that had some Loctite on the threads of the new bolts pre-applied.
Mounted the tire and test drove, and the ODY was without the thud noise it was making before. Here's a picture of the new and old bolt.

 

[tdelco]

Well, I finished up my brake (caliper bolt missing causing the dull thud sound). What a nightmare. One of our local Honda dealers had ordered the bolts and I ordered the brake pads with pad retainers/clips. They wanted $144 for it, and I told them NO! I was quoted on a phone call $67 for the items and told them I wanted to pay for it before I picked them up on 8/3/22 by credit card. They said wait until I came in to pay for them. I wound having to pay $77. They said Honda had changed the part number to 43022-TZ5-A11, now there is no way the price should double itself for pads (even the caliper bolts). It took me 20 minutes to get them to change the price to what I was quoted (still had to pay $10 more). I guess for now I will have to order and pay my parts on-line and wait for them to come.

Now the pads. When I yanker the right rear caliper and pads, I could not determine how the retainers held the pads in as the little spring coil on the retainers was broke off. I could not get the pads into the caliper bracket, so I pulled the bracket off the knuckle to see how it was supposed to fit. After twisting the bracket to the right orientation several times and then finding the secret of pushing the pad at a angle behind the retainer spring coil and snapping it straight. It worked! left the pads on the bracket and reinstalled on the knuckle. Whew! Mounted the caliper with the new caliper bolts and saw that had some Loctite on the threads of the new bolts pre-applied.
Mounted the tire and test drove, and the ODY was without the thud noise it was making before. Here's a picture of the new and old bolt.
View attachment 169744

Congrats! on your great work. thanks 4 pics too

 

[tdelco]

@digitalextremes
I am definitely going to have to watch my rear shocks closer than I have been if yours went out at 37K miles.

Your rear window seal is horrid! I am glad my ODY is in a garage now as it seems MiniVans have this problem. Dodge/Chrysler-Plymouth/Ford/Chevy MiniVans were really plagued with this which caused premature rusting on the tailgate, unless it had a plastic or fiberglass tailgate.

The solution is to replace your window seal, than once a month apply a rubber sealant on the window seal called 303 Automotive Protectant. This is a great rubber protection on all things rubber, even tires for weather checking. You should be able to get this at Amazon or some automotive parts stores. It's terrible that Honda mad these window seals out of such poor grade rubber and they should have put some silicone in them to preserve their life.

I've used 303 on my hot tub cover, still looks great after 12 years in sun!

 

[Caveman49]

I just posted on another thread about the rear window trim rubber. Yeah ours is doing the same thing, cracked about every 1/2” or so, only that trim piece is doing this…
I see the trim piece is available on different Honda sites, just wondering if it’s a complete trim piece with the chrome and rubber together. And I wonder how difficult it is to remove and replace. Maybe I’ll go to a local glass shop and see what they say on removal.

 

[dick_freebird]

For rear shocks I have been pretty happy installing Gabriel
"Hi-Jacker" air shocks. They are durable, damp well and you
can get a little control of loaded / tongue weight ride height.

I've had them on a suspension-tweaked 4th gen Camaro SS
(they worked better than SLP Bilsteins, there), Chevy van
(great for towing), '70s Chevy Caprice (road couch) and they
never wore out and never gave me a ride-quality or handling
complaint. In all cases I would leave them at zero pressure
unless towing, but found no damping difference when aired
up.

Whether they are available in Honda Odyssey fitment, that
I could not say.

In my Camaro circles, KYB stood for "Keep You Bouncing"
and they have a bad rep for wearing out early (as the reason).
Everybody went Koni (adjustable, overkill) or Bilstein (equally
spendy, nonadjustable) if they were planning on keeping the
car.

 

[Caveman49]

Bilsteins have always been my go-to shocks, but I can’t find them for the Odyssey. I had Gabriel’s on some older rides I’ve bought, no issues, but I don’t think they make them for Odysseys.
My 02 Toyota Tundra TRD package (I bought this truck new) came with Bilsteins on it, just at 99k on truck and the shocks are still doing the job!

 

[digitalextremes]

My faint thud noise coming from wheel well is gone after I replaced the leaking shock absorber today.

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[Caveman49]

Those look wore out for sure ^^ big difference eh.

 

[DJVAN]

@dick_freebird

You had me going back a few years... Gabriel HiJackers... I had them on my 68 Chevelle, 3 new sets on the rear, each time the pistons ram seals blew out. They would only last a few days. Parts place after second time around put the air pressure in them... went out next day. After that Gabriel sent me 3rd set and asked to try them and called back the results to them, the same blew out. You could hear them leak from under the shocks (not at the fittings either). They paid me for them at the end result, and being so disgruntled with them I took the Jack-Rabbit sticker off my rear side windows and went back to Delco shocks and had no problems with them. Gabriel had all 3 sets of defective shocks to look at for defects, they kept on saying I overcharged them. I used a air-foot-pump and would check for air pressure in them. I did not know they still made them anymore and will not buy any again, even though they were easy to swap out.

 

[DJVAN]

@digitalextremes
Glad that was your problem! It looks like it had been slowly leaking for the amount of dirt that was collecting on the sides of the shock. This is one of the nice indicators that your shocks are going out, besides the thud noise it makes. Air filled shocks are so easy to troubleshoot, they still will make a thud noise but generally most people cannot heat that sound.

 

[1vtajake]

I have been hearing some very light dul 1 tap/thud from Rear right wheel wheel area after going through even a small bump/uneven surface and I have lifted the van a few time (retightened bolts from the bottom) and looked from The inside but cannot find anything loose. Wondering if it’s same thing as you are saying here.

Is that how it sounds like a light thud like something made of rubber attached with a week spring hits the body lightly?


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Did you find the actual culprit of the 'tapping noise'? I replaced my rears & have the same issue, I cannot locate the noise but it's apparent when I drive it over bumps

 

[1vtajake]

I have been hearing some very light dul 1 tap/thud from Rear right wheel wheel area after going through even a small bump/uneven surface and I have lifted the van a few time (retightened bolts from the bottom) and looked from The inside but cannot find anything loose. Wondering if it’s same thing as you are saying here.

Is that how it sounds like a light thud like something made of rubber attached with a week spring hits the body lightly?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you ever find root cause of noise?

 

[1vtajake]

I have been hearing some very light dul 1 tap/thud from Rear right wheel wheel area after going through even a small bump/uneven surface and I have lifted the van a few time (retightened bolts from the bottom) and looked from The inside but cannot find anything loose. Wondering if it’s same thing as you are saying here.

Is that how it sounds like a light thud like something made of rubber attached with a week spring hits the body lightly?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you find actual source of noise?