[Caveman49]

This is 100% me. I am pretty close to getting a razor blade and cutting off the chunks and then get a clean tape line down and just put some black caulk on it.

If I were to do it, I’d probably leave it as is, not cut any of the old rubber out. It’ll give the caulk some base to adhere to. Remove the wiper arm, clean it good, windex works well, mask it good and run your bead or beads, smooth it out as needed. My thoughts anyway.

 

[NeonNerd]

I would like to see how it turned out. Mine is also completely cracked and falling apart. I assume that all the rainwater is going to drain directly into the back tailgate. Can anyone post pictures after they've done it please?

 

[NeonNerd]

After reading some of the threads, it was too much trouble for me to do. The dealer replaced it for a little less than $300. Very expensive for a $30 part. But I'm getting reimbursed from the company I bought it from hopefully.

 

[conman16]

My 2018 needs this trim replacement as well. I did see a video where the person says you pop one of the end caps off and it should slide off those clips. Of course it looks and sounds simple but maybe it isn't.

 

[Yahmei]

My 2018 needs this trim replacement as well. I did see a video where the person says you pop one of the end caps off and it should slide off those clips. Of course it looks and sounds simple but maybe it isn't.

I'd assume it's this video?

You won't know until you try it, but someone did have an issue with the trim sitting straight. Their comment read..

Update: I made the fix today. Local Honda dealer had the part in stock. To get the old one off, I popped off an end cap and then took some needle nose pliers and just pulled toward me to slide it all the way off. No clips broke in the process. I then hosed off all the dirt and grime behind it.
To put the new one on, I first tried to slide it on like the video in the comments below said to do but it kept getting crooked and I couldn’t slide it any further. So I lined it up along the back window and just pushed it on. Some of the clips may not have snapped in 100% but you can’t tell. Then I reinstalled the end caps. Job done. Thanks for the help from everyone.

 

[cyphon21]

I will be attempting this in the spring as well - need to take inventory to order any other misc parts I need to do, as this one is an overnight order. Glad I stumbled across this post, takes a lot of the idea out of how I can find ways to screw it up.

Local dealer quoted me about $55 for it, I will be ordering a few clips as well just in case.

 

[ph278501]

I did the take the caps off and slide off on one end method on my 2018 just now after reading posts about this for months. Old one came off easy without breaking any clips. Took 5 minutes once you get a cap end off. Sliding a new one on is harder. I would recommend silicon grease on the clips, then don’t slide on the first clip at the beginning. Slide the piece over the rest and over slide it and slide it back over the first clip you skipped. Put on ends. I think only one clip didn’t catch but it snapped on by pressing with the rest in place. Took me 45 minutes in total. Easy peasy.

 

[CMK]

I did this today and it's a PITA. The old, deteriorated piece came off as described, but the new piece is challenging to put in. I applied some silicone spray to the inside of the new piece thinking that might help but the issue is that the curve of the piece makes it nearly impossible to slide it all the way on. ph278501 above me provided a useful technique but that didn't work for me either. What I ended up doing was sliding the right side into the last three clips, pushing it along until I could slide the left side into the last three clips on the left side, then pushing the center in as much as I could. It's definitely not as snug as it could be but the sides seem to be the most important part to get right.

 

[jakerogers4672]

DIY Guide – Re-installing the lower lift-gate window trim on a 2018-2024 Honda Odyssey (part #73220-THR-A01)
(for owners who don’t want to pay a glass shop to pull the rear windshield)

What you’re fixing
The rubber lip bonded to the chrome/black strip along the bottom edge of the back glass dries out and crumbles. Honda sells the strip ( 73220-THR-A01, MSRP ≈ $45 ) and nine plastic slide-on clips ( 91512-THR-A01, ≈ $2–3 each ).


Three clips (the two ends and the center) are glued to the glass from the factory; the six “floating” clips can be replaced. The trim must slide on/off those clips; prying straight off usually kinks them.

Tools & supplies

Item	Purpose	Notes
Heat gun (or 1 kW hair-dryer on High)	Softens the plastic clips and the new molding so they flex	Keep moving – 200 °C max
Needle-nose pliers wrapped with 2–3 layers of masking tape	Acts as a miniature “spreader” to close clip gap	Tape prevents marring
Plastic trim stick / old credit card	Popping off end caps; guiding molding	Metal screwdriver risks scratching paint
Silicone spray or silicone grease	Lubes clip channels so the molding slides	WD-40 works in a pinch
Shop towel / leather glove	Pressing hot trim flush while it cools	Protects fingers
Optional: new clips 91512-THR-A01	Replace any broken floaters	Buy 3–4 spares

Removal (≈ 10 min)

1. Open the lift-gate and pop off one end cap (driver or passenger) with the plastic trim stick.
2. Shoot a little silicone spray along the channel.
3. Slide the old molding sideways toward the opposite end. Steady, even pulls—do not pry straight out; you will snap the glued clips.
4. If a clip does shatter, pry its stump off the glass with needle-nose pliers; scrape residual butyl with a plastic razor.
   

“Tune” the clips before re-fit
This is the step that saves you hours of frustration.
Problem: The upper tongue of each clip grabs fine, but the lower tang sits too far open after removal, so the trim’s C-channel never seats.
Fix:

1. Aim the heat gun at a clip for ~8 sec (until glossy).
2. Slip the taped needle-nose behind the lower tang – only insert, do NOT lever.
3. Keep gentle forward pressure; when the plastic softens, the pliers walk in and pinch the gap closed ~1 mm.
4. Stop heat, hold 10 sec so the clip re-hardens.

Do this on every floating clip and test with a scrap of the molding: you should feel a positive snap top and bottom.

Installation sequence

1. Pre-lube the new molding’s rubber channel with a thin wipe of silicone grease.
2. Start at the tuned clips (center is easiest). Bottom lip first, then rock the top edge until it clicks.
3. Work outward, pushing the molding onto each clip. If resistance spikes, back off and re-lube; do not hammer.
4. Once all nine clips are engaged, sight along the strip: the chrome/painted surfaces should sit parallel to the wiper arm.
5. Minor waviness? Warm the spot with the heat gun, press firmly with a folded towel until cool—plastic “resets” flush.

End-caps and final check
Snap the two black end caps back on. Tug the molding left-right: it should move less than 1 mm. Run a garden hose over the strip and look for drips inside the lift-gate; none = success.

FAQ / Tips

Issue	Cause & Cure
Can’t slide new strip more than 6″	Too much friction. Remove strip, re-spray silicone, or skip the first clip, over-slide, then slide back (works around the curve).
Bottom lip still won’t catch	Clip gap not closed enough. Re-heat individual clip, pinch tighter.
One glued clip broke off	Order 91512-THR-A01, clean glass, bond with 3M Super-Strength molding tape and a dab of black RTV; let cure 4 hrs before mounting strip.
Why not rubberized undercoat behind molding?	Water must drain; heavy undercoat traps moisture. Honda specs bare glass + clip + molding only.

Cost & time recap

• Parts: $45 strip + ≤ $27 clips = < $75
• Tools: household heat gun + pliers
• DIY time: 45–60 min if clips pre-tuned

 

[pulseps]

Does This molding detorsion covered in extended warranty ?

Just asking to avoid all this hassle. My warranty will be ending in 2 weeks.