I did my first oil change today. I strongly prefer to have the wheels on something solid instead of using jack stands. With my floor jack under the front center jack point, I was able to get only two 2x8 lumber scraps under each front wheel. I got it done, but it would be much easier with about six inches under each wheel. Can anyone recommend some ramps with a shallow enough incline to avoid contact with the front bumper on the way up and down?
slowmachine
Did you go over the prior ramps recommendation threads? There was one where someone built one out of 2x8s.
Have you searched? 
Some in an earlier generation have built ramps with 2x6 (or maybe 2x8) stock as I recall.
Some in an earlier generation have built ramps with 2x6 (or maybe 2x8) stock as I recall.
My personal opinion on ramps?? Well. I do not use them and do not plan to. While Oil Changes can be great with the ramps as the drain bolt is at the end of the oil pan which helps drain more oil out while on ramps (or jack stands), the transmission fluid D&Fs would be problematic.
Since I own a 3rd gen, I do ATF D&Fs every other oil change. So. I raise the front, open both drain bolts (oil and ATF) and let things drain (after warming up the fluids of course). I then button up the oil drain bolt and remove the jack stands and lower the ody completely. That still enables more ATF to come out. Then, I raise it back on the jack, quickly remove the drain pan, screw on the ATF drain bolt and lower it back on the wheels. I tighten the ATF bolt that way as I want to avoid putting the Ody back on the stands. I have gotten used to working on it this way and I am fairly change resistant.
Since I own a 3rd gen, I do ATF D&Fs every other oil change. So. I raise the front, open both drain bolts (oil and ATF) and let things drain (after warming up the fluids of course). I then button up the oil drain bolt and remove the jack stands and lower the ody completely. That still enables more ATF to come out. Then, I raise it back on the jack, quickly remove the drain pan, screw on the ATF drain bolt and lower it back on the wheels. I tighten the ATF bolt that way as I want to avoid putting the Ody back on the stands. I have gotten used to working on it this way and I am fairly change resistant.
One BIG caution regarding using ramps on front wheel drive vehicles, from experience that happened to me. If the concrete of your garage/carport floor has a very smooth finish, the ramp can become a dangerous flying object.
I had built two ramps out of multiple layers of 2x6 lumber that I had. When I drove our 2002 Toyota Sienna van onto the ramps, the one under the driver's side front tire was flung back by the rotating front wheel drive. The ramp was flung past the left rear tire with great force. If anyone had been in the path of the ramp, they would have been very seriously injured or even killed. Especially with the tapered edge of the ramp.
In the old days using rear wheel drive cars, there was never a problem driving onto ramps under the front tires. But with front wheel drive cars, BEWARE if the concrete surface is very smooth.
I had built two ramps out of multiple layers of 2x6 lumber that I had. When I drove our 2002 Toyota Sienna van onto the ramps, the one under the driver's side front tire was flung back by the rotating front wheel drive. The ramp was flung past the left rear tire with great force. If anyone had been in the path of the ramp, they would have been very seriously injured or even killed. Especially with the tapered edge of the ramp.
In the old days using rear wheel drive cars, there was never a problem driving onto ramps under the front tires. But with front wheel drive cars, BEWARE if the concrete surface is very smooth.
Thank you for this. I haven’t worked on a front drive car for a long time. My garage floor is very smooth. I’ll figure out a better way.
I have someting very similar to this:
www.harborfreight.com
And I love them. TBH they don't allow for a lot of clearance. That is if I crawl under a car - fine, if I use creeper, the stupid oil pan is right in my face. Cannot even see anything this close (getting old).
So yeah. I use ramp and plywood to crawl on (to keep something between my body and cold concrete).
6500 lb. Capacity Portable Ramp Set, 2-Piece
Amazing deals on this 6500Lb Capacity Portable Ramps, 2Pc at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com
And I love them. TBH they don't allow for a lot of clearance. That is if I crawl under a car - fine, if I use creeper, the stupid oil pan is right in my face. Cannot even see anything this close (getting old).
So yeah. I use ramp and plywood to crawl on (to keep something between my body and cold concrete).
I thought I had instructions for this ramp below, but could not find it. It looks simple enough to build...
![Image]()
![Image]()
Personally I kind of want to have one of those pits in my garage so I can work underneath instead of having to lift the car:
![Image]()
As I recall, RhinoGear makes strong ramps that can hold up to 12,000 pounds GVW, which is pretty impressive. Their CoreTRAC non-skid base helps keep them from slipping. Another good option is Race Ramps—they're lightweight and made from a special composite material. They come in different inclines and capacities, but if you have a low-clearance car, the RR-56 or RR-40 series have a gentle slope.
I dunno about those tall wooden ones. Any chance those 2 by's standing on the ends could domino over? It looks like it.
With one of these 16qt drain pans and this long funnel, I haven't had to jack up my Odyssey for oil, filter and transmission fluid changes in many years. This pan will slide under past the air dam with minimal effort. I also put tin foil behind the oil filter to direct spillage away from the subframe. Piece of cake.
The long funnel is for filling the transmission through the dip stick tube. Saves tons of time. Just have to remove the engine cover.
@OddyseyRaceTeam
Not really, they is a lot of strength in the design, and you also have gravity working for you. I saw a third design from Europe, although they are not ramps but wheel cribs, plus they allow for a taller lift height or whatever you want in height.
Not really, they is a lot of strength in the design, and you also have gravity working for you. I saw a third design from Europe, although they are not ramps but wheel cribs, plus they allow for a taller lift height or whatever you want in height.
I laugh, not to make fun of these, but at those who may shake their heads at the idea. I like problem solvers. 🤠👍
@Raptor88
You could apply some "3M Clear Anti-Slip Indoor & Outdoor Safety Traction 2" x 48" Tape Roll" on the bottom of wood or plastic. This will grip into the concrete fairly well. It's real use is for entryway to stairs of elevators or escalators so as you get to the approach your foot will not slip out as you walk into or on stairs, elevator, escalators. It is one sided adhesive and almost clear tape. The only problem wee had with it in use was it got dirty looking after a few months so we had to replace the tape, Men and women wearing either plastic or shiny patent leather soles on their shoes/heels would have a tendency to slip and fall on these types of entry point.
You could apply some "3M Clear Anti-Slip Indoor & Outdoor Safety Traction 2" x 48" Tape Roll" on the bottom of wood or plastic. This will grip into the concrete fairly well. It's real use is for entryway to stairs of elevators or escalators so as you get to the approach your foot will not slip out as you walk into or on stairs, elevator, escalators. It is one sided adhesive and almost clear tape. The only problem wee had with it in use was it got dirty looking after a few months so we had to replace the tape, Men and women wearing either plastic or shiny patent leather soles on their shoes/heels would have a tendency to slip and fall on these types of entry point.
I've never felt comfortable under a vehicle while it was on ramps. Also, driving up on the ramps are difficult because you can't see them and I've had one kick out on me because I wasn't squared up to it properly.
I use Race Ramps:
I purchased them secondhand, but only used a few times, and in more or less new condition- so they were about 1/3 the price of the above, but they are the best. I also own low sports cars, and these work perfectly for them as well. Having owned and used them for many years- in my opinion they are worth the money at full price...
I purchased them secondhand, but only used a few times, and in more or less new condition- so they were about 1/3 the price of the above, but they are the best. I also own low sports cars, and these work perfectly for them as well. Having owned and used them for many years- in my opinion they are worth the money at full price...
FWIW I have done my oil and ATF changes with the wheels on the ground. The access to the drain bolts is pretty easy and catch pan has more than enough clearance. In fact the only annoying part of job (for me) has been getting torque wrench on oil drain bolt. I'm not sure a ramp would actually make that any easier.
I used to as a high school kid, use tree logs under the frame. Of course they was always a minimum of 12" diameter, height was always slightly different. It was nice to have the cars up 2' higher rather than 17-19".
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