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In the old days using rear wheel drive cars, there was never a problem driving onto ramps under the front tires. But with front wheel drive cars, BEWARE if the concrete surface is very smooth.
If you look at Rhino ramps they have a little rubber toe
insert on the underside of the leading edge to give you
"ramp to floor" traction as soon as you put tire weight
on them.

Might add this to any homemade ramp design. Next
time you see a kicked-off trucl tire retread by the side of
the road....
 
If you look at Rhino ramps they have a little rubber toe
insert on the underside of the leading edge to give you
"ramp to floor" traction as soon as you put tire weight
on them.

Might add this to any homemade ramp design. Next
time you see a kicked-off trucl tire retread by the side of
the road....
After my experience with the driver's side ramp being hurled backward, the only way I would trust ramps on front wheel drive vehicles would be to drill holes in the concrete floor and drop some 1/2 inch rebars into the holes. Then have matching holes in the ramps and set the ramps on the rebars. The heavy, tapered ramp is a deadly missile if flung backward by the front wheel drive tire. Could easily amputate people at the ankles, or pets for that matter.
 
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With one of these 16qt drain pans and this long funnel, I haven't had to jack up my Odyssey for oil, filter and transmission fluid changes in many years. This pan will slide under past the air dam with minimal effort. I also put tin foil behind the oil filter to direct spillage away from the subframe. Piece of cake.

The long funnel is for filling the transmission through the dip stick tube. Saves tons of time. Just have to remove the engine cover.
 
@OddyseyRaceTeam
Not really, they is a lot of strength in the design, and you also have gravity working for you. I saw a third design from Europe, although they are not ramps but wheel cribs, plus they allow for a taller lift height or whatever you want in height.
 
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@Raptor88
You could apply some "3M Clear Anti-Slip Indoor & Outdoor Safety Traction 2" x 48" Tape Roll" on the bottom of wood or plastic. This will grip into the concrete fairly well. It's real use is for entryway to stairs of elevators or escalators so as you get to the approach your foot will not slip out as you walk into or on stairs, elevator, escalators. It is one sided adhesive and almost clear tape. The only problem wee had with it in use was it got dirty looking after a few months so we had to replace the tape, Men and women wearing either plastic or shiny patent leather soles on their shoes/heels would have a tendency to slip and fall on these types of entry point.
 
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@Raptor88
You could apply some "3M Clear Anti-Slip Indoor & Outdoor Safety Traction 2" x 48" Tape Roll" on the bottom of wood or plastic. This will grip into the concrete fairly well. It's real use is for entryway to stairs of elevators or escalators so as you get to the approach your foot will not slip out as you walk into or on stairs, elevator, escalators. It is one sided adhesive and almost clear tape. The only problem wee had with it in use was it got dirty looking after a few months so we had to replace the tape, Men and women wearing either plastic or shiny patent leather soles on their shoes/heels would have a tendency to slip and fall on these types of entry point.
Thanks for the suggestion. However I won't use front wheel ramps anymore. Jacking up and using jack stands is more work but it happens so infrequently that I don't mind doing it.
 
@OddyseyRaceTeam
Not really, they is a lot of strength in the design, and you also have gravity working for you. I saw a third design from Europe, although they are not ramps but wheel cribs, plus they allow for a taller lift height or whatever you want in height.
I laugh, not to make fun of these, but at those who may shake their heads at the idea. I like problem solvers. 🤠👍
 
@OddyseyRaceTeam
Not really, they is a lot of strength in the design, and you also have gravity working for you. I saw a third design from Europe, although they are not ramps but wheel cribs, plus they allow for a taller lift height or whatever you want in height.
I have built several sets of this style. Carpenter bees ate the
set before last, I use only PT now. Have gone to 18x18" for
stability, 2 screws and glue at every joint. Top rail 4x4", set
a 2x10 x18" across between if keeping her on the tires.
 
Finally had a chance to take and post pics yesterday. CR-V was on 13k on oil change, thankfully it had HPL oil in it so 13k wasn't even breaking a sweat.
Nice !!!

The edge stop is a bit taller than I was envisioning. Thank you for the pix.
 
Nice !!!

The edge stop is a bit taller than I was envisioning. Thank you for the pix.
Yeah, we just had two similarly sized pieces of scrap wood leftover so we just buzzed one to make it the same as the other and threw it on there. it actually works out good though because i usually use that carry the ramp by...if it was shorter, I wouldn't be able to get a good hand hold on it.
 
FWIW I have done my oil and ATF changes with the wheels on the ground. The access to the drain bolts is pretty easy and catch pan has more than enough clearance. In fact the only annoying part of job (for me) has been getting torque wrench on oil drain bolt. I'm not sure a ramp would actually make that any easier.
 
One BIG caution regarding using ramps on front wheel drive vehicles, from experience that happened to me. If the concrete of your garage/carport floor has a very smooth finish, the ramp can become a dangerous flying object.

I had built two ramps out of multiple layers of 2x6 lumber that I had. When I drove our 2002 Toyota Sienna van onto the ramps, the one under the driver's side front tire was flung back by the rotating front wheel drive. The ramp was flung past the left rear tire with great force. If anyone had been in the path of the ramp, they would have been very seriously injured or even killed. Especially with the tapered edge of the ramp.

In the old days using rear wheel drive cars, there was never a problem driving onto ramps under the front tires. But with front wheel drive cars, BEWARE if the concrete surface is very smooth.
You can get around that if you put screws about 3/16" too long into the bottom piece of lumber...or longer ones into the second on the stack. If you got some purdy shiny foo foo floor it might scratch it.
 
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