Why? Just because it was cheap? I think 40 weight might be too heavy. I definitely would not use it during winter time. Maybe, only if you are seriously thinking about using it, I would only run it during summer only.
I personally would not use it on Honda


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Yes, from my trucking days I can say that Rotella is used with confidence in heavy duty diesel engines.

However, I know of no-one who uses it in a gas engine. No idea why not - maybe simply price? I never thought about using it myself. (I use Amsoil too.)

If you got it in the correct grade 0W-20, and it has at least the API designation required by Honda, it should work well.

Dave

 

Don't put that in your Odyssey, that's for diesel truck engines isn't it?


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FYI if you're looking for cheap 0w20 oil, Pennzoil has a rebate now good for up to $20 ($10/5 qt jug or $2/qt). Amazon and Walmart both have it on sale for about $23 now for the 5 qt jugs too.

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/promotions/do-it-yourself-oil-change/promotion-14.html

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Time to stock up!


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listen 0w40 or 5w40 is great for turbo charged cars but for this engine I'd use the plenty of 0w20 available out there full synthetic.

lots of options. I used 0w40 t6 before in another car and loved it. I used 0w30 German castrol before that and had a used oil analysis done as well and all was great.

however for the odyssey, use whatever 0w20 is on sale. by virtue of being 0w20 it is inherently synthetic oil.

m4gician
2012 Touring (Canada)

 

yeah, think I'll stick to using the 5-40 in the atv's then
its recommended 10-40 in there.

btw t6 is common to use in gas engines. google it. it has more additives which benefits the gas motors.

 

Except these are Hondas we are talking about here. Except for the brief time they used some "experimental" piston rings, when has a Honda ever had an issue with engine oil? You wanna be obsessive, change the trans fluid every 15k.

 

Ow20 only. Clearances are much tighter on these engines than those for which Rotella is recommended. Not saying that engine damage could result, but not saying it won't either.

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Ow20 only. Clearances are much tighter on these engines than those for which Rotella is recommended. Not saying that engine damage could result, but not saying it won't either.

OMG yes, just checked and found that Rotella T6 is available only in 0W-40 and 5w-40. This is much too heavy for the Ody's engine.

With so many excellent synthetic oils of the correct weight available at the nearest Walmart, there's no need to take chances with an out-of spec oil.

Dave

 

It doesn't meet API SN specifications. There is a reason it's cheap. Cheap = good (for specced oil) because cheap means you are willing to change it more often - rather than push it.

ALSO the weight is WAY-DA-F*** off. So your fuel economy is likely going to suffer, as well oil passage velocity is going to decrease significantly, possibly leading to oil starvation.

Don't be stupid. A savings on the oil isn't worth an engine full of crap - especially if that includes engine bits.

 

If you use this I wouldn't be surprised if you got vtec codes in about the first 50 miles. Just run what the manufacturer says to run. Everyone loves to reinvent the wheel. The best oil is what Honda says to run. I've got 200k on mine running mobile 1 5w-20 high mileage. It burns about 1/2 quart between maintenance minder OCI's.

 

Same here but with 200K miles and still run 0-20W Mobil1. Burns zero oil [emoji41]

 

if its way too heavy then I agree with all of you.
ill continue to use my 0-20 amsoil.
thanks

 

Dont skimp on fluids (period)

 

The difference is diesel oils have more detergents...not really a bad thing, and can absolutely be used in gas engines. These oils are time proven and made to run some very expensive diesel engines for 1 million plus miles. Also contains more ZDDP than current car oils, which is great for flat tappet motors if you have any. ZDDP is being phased out of gas engine oils because of environmental concerns, and it can slowly plate catalytic converters. 5w-40 is a fine viscosity -- this engine is based on the 4 cyl honda engine which hasn't changed much except for electronics, in decades -- back then 10w-30 was the recommended viscosity. The reason they started the 5w-20 and 0w-20 baloney was to get the C.A.F.E. numbers up for the gubmint...maybe eek out another 0.1 mpg...because the oil is thinner thus lower friction, but in my opinion, lower than optimal viscosity. Honda doesn't care if you only get 200k instead of 300k out of your engine, as long as the govt doesn't penalize them for low MPG. Viscosity index is most important, look at the viscosity index of Rotella T6, probably around 160, vs the VI of other "recommended oils" Rotella T6 will be more viscous at 250deg F than 20w-50 oil, because it has a higher viscosity index --- it does not thin out as much as temperature increases. FYI I use Rotella T6 in pretty much everything, Odyssey, Accord, RX-8, motorcycles, lawnmower.

Edit: just to summarize, I think you are getting a better additive package for your money with T6 or another cj4 oil because commercial operators demand it...with the car oils you get a cheaper additive package and the oil costs more because you are paying for marketing.

 

The difference is diesel oils have more detergents...not really a bad thing, and can absolutely be used in gas engines. These oils are time proven and made to run some very expensive diesel engines for 1 million plus miles. Also contains more ZDDP than current car oils, which is great for flat tappet motors if you have any. ZDDP is being phased out of gas engine oils because of environmental concerns, and it can slowly plate catalytic converters. 5w-40 is a fine viscosity -- this engine is based on the 4 cyl honda engine which hasn't changed much except for electronics, in decades -- back then 10w-30 was the recommended viscosity. The reason they started the 5w-20 and 0w-20 baloney was to get the C.A.F.E. numbers up for the gubmint...maybe eek out another 0.1 mpg...because the oil is thinner thus lower friction, but in my opinion, lower than optimal viscosity. Honda doesn't care if you only get 200k instead of 300k out of your engine, as long as the govt doesn't penalize them for low MPG. Viscosity index is most important, look at the viscosity index of Rotella T6, probably around 160, vs the VI of other "recommended oils" Rotella T6 will be more viscous at 200 deg F than 20w-50 oil, because it has a higher viscosity index --- it does not thin out as much as temperature increases. FYI I use Rotella T6 in pretty much everything, Odyssey, Accord, RX-8, motorcycles, lawnmower.

This is mostly true. However, these engines have changed with the addition of all the variable valve timing (VTEC) valves that are required for controlling the cylinder pause system. I've seen simple things like a low quality oil filter cause codes and set a check engine light. It is critical to use the proper oil, viscosity, filters, etc. I would always stick with the recommended oil.

 

I have an 08 odyssey, 07 Jeep 4.7, 77 Dodge 318. 78 Dodge 440 I have looked into oils for years and have concluded that for the price Rotella T-6 at about $20 per gallon is as good as it gets. Mobil and Amsol have priced them selves out of the market in my opinion. Diesel oils have more zinc in them for higher pressures in work horse engines. The 5W-40 is perfect for all weather and driving conditions. Form bellow 0 to 100 plus degrees. I run the oil for ten thousand mile between changes. I have taken oil samples to my local Caterpillar dealership and had it tested by their lab. Was told the oil was still in excellent condition. On my Honda I do change the oil filter every 5000 because it is so teeny tiny. Wouldn't want it to plug up but after cutting them open I have found nothing to speak of. And my valve timing works just fine, Thank you very much. Moisture is the big NO,NO in engines. If you live by the ocean or drive 2 miles to the store and back, maybe you should change the oil at 5000. I live in Reno. It is dry as a bone here.
It takes about 50 miles of free-way driving to 'completely' dry out an engine. Napa gold oil filters exceed all specs. Made by Wix filters for trucks. Not the platinum extended mileage filters they keep from plugging up by not filtering as well. 0W20 is just too thin for hard driving and hot weather. Ex mechanic and truck driver.

 

I have an 08 odyssey, 07 Jeep 4.7, 77 Dodge 318. 78 Dodge 440 I have looked into oils for years and have concluded that for the price Rotella T-6 at about $20 per gallon is as good as it gets. Mobil and Amsol have priced them selves out of the market in my opinion. Diesel oils have more zinc in them for higher pressures in work horse engines. The 5W-40 is perfect for all weather and driving conditions. Form bellow 0 to 100 plus degrees. I run the oil for ten thousand mile between changes. I have taken oil samples to my local Caterpillar dealership and had it tested by their lab. Was told the oil was still in excellent condition. On my Honda I do change the oil filter every 5000 because it is so teeny tiny. Wouldn't want it to plug up but after cutting them open I have found nothing to speak of. And my valve timing works just fine, Thank you very much. Moisture is the big NO,NO in engines. If you live by the ocean or drive 2 miles to the store and back, maybe you should change the oil at 5000. I live in Reno. It is dry as a bone here.
It takes about 50 miles of free-way driving to 'completely' dry out an engine. Napa gold oil filters exceed all specs. Made by Wix filters for trucks. Not the platinum extended mileage filters they keep from plugging up by not filtering as well. 0W20 is just too thin for hard driving and hot weather. Ex mechanic and truck driver.

You seem to take personal offense to a post not personally directed at you.

Use whatever oil in your car you want. Don't let my personal experience affect your habits (even though you're posting on an Internet forum where most people look for advice.)

I still stick to my recommendation that one sticks to the oil that the manufacturer recommends. I've got 201K on my 08 Odyssey that I bought brand new and have simply changed the oil with the manufacturer recommended oil at the manufacturer recommended interval (maintenance minder) of around 6500 miles. It burns very little oil between changes and has never given a bit of trouble.

I have a side business of auto repair. I've personally repaired P3400 and other vtec codes on these simply by changing the oil and filter to the manufacturer recommended oil and filter. 0w-20 is fine. If you want to go to 5w-20 I see nothing wrong with that since the same exact engine in 2010 used 5w-20 but in 2011 changed to 0w-20. Going with a 5w-40 is not something I'd recommend, however. Going to a heavier oil on older engines used to be fine. I remember running 20w-50 in an old Datsun I had and it loved it. In modern engines it's not a good idea. Mechanic and corporate pilot.

 

Of course that zinc accumulates in the cats. If you choose to run T6, you have most certainly voided the warranty on your emissions eqp (120k/10yr). Not that it's a guarantee that this'll f*** up your cat, but if something DOES happen to them, Honda ain't gonna pay for the repair...

 

Honda May choose to do a deep dive on what caused the cat to fail, but I doubt they will tear it apart. It is cheaper to just pay for the repair than do the deep analysis. IMO.

Just like some will say doing your own oil change will void warranty, but I never experienced any push back as I do my own fluid changes.


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That’s great to hear with your use of Mobil1. That’s been my go to choice for a while now in my Ody, CX-5 and my mother in laws CX-5. I stock up on as much as I can when there are rebates available. Not unusual for me to get 5 quarts and a Mobil1 filter for less than $15 after rebate. I also stocked up on Pennzoil Platinum when they were running a $20 rebate on gas when purchasing 5 quarts. That came out to be less than $5 for 5 quarts when I got about 19 gallons of gas in my Ody ?