Make sure the hinged part of roller assembly isn't binding for what ever reason.
Rollers must work, but it's a hinge too, and must move smooth too at hinge pivot points.

Just a thought that some overlook/ discount.

1/4 the time it is the hinge portion that is corroded/binding that is causing issues.
The pin with C/E clip. Lube it.

Just sharing a possible angle

May need to reset doors. Pull # 7 fuse. Work doors manual close. Reset fuse. Power on, use switch/fob.

 

I also pulled fuse #7 and performed sliding door reset.

Sorry, just saw that.

What exact procedure did you use to reset doors using #7 fuse?

 

Thanks Bear.

The hinge pivots freely. Applied grease to pins on both sides before reinserting. When I manually close door, no binding at all. And the door slides easily around bend even. Will do fuse reset again.

Don't recall exact procedure. Something like: pull fuse #7, close doors manually, replace fuse, turn key to on, open door with master control.

Find several fuse reset procedures. Appreciate input on which is best.

 

There is a very specific procedure to follow to reset doors.

 

I'll try these procedures, found in the service manual I purchased online.

"To reset the system, fully close the sliding
door manually. Once the battery terminals are reconnected or No. 7 (7.5 A) fuse in the driver's
under-dash fuse/relay box is replaced, the power sliding door system will automatically reset.
Make sure the power sliding door operates properly."

Re-homing:
"1. Erase the sliding door DTCs by removing the No. 7 fuse from the under-dash fuse/relay box.
2. Turn off the Main switch for the doors. Make sure the ignition switch is in LOCK (0).
3. Fully close the power sliding door manually (the control unit must see the full latch switch
and the ratchet switch closed at the same time).
4. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II). Turn on the Main switch.
5. Test the door operation with the power sliding door switch, the remote transmitter, and the
door handles."

 

To reset the system, fully close the sliding
door manually.

No. 7 fuse in the driver's
under-dash fuse/relay box is replaced,

power sliding door system will automatically reset.

I was right. Amazing. lol

Good Luck

 

I'm fairly sure your issue is mechanical, not electrical. I know you said you've tried adjusting it, but this really does sound like a center roller alignment issue.

 

I was fairly sure also it was mechanical. Don't understand how the reset resolved things...but I'll take it. Thanks for your input.

 

I performed #7 fuse reset first thing this morning, and it works!

Much thanks, Bear.

I feel a bit foolish having spent time for this thread. Hopefully it helps someone else.

Happy New Year and blessings to everyone!

 

My passenger side door does this on occasion. I haven't tried this yet, gonna try it now. Your thread isn't useless if it helps someone else too. Mine is most likely mechanical, the previous owner said he replaced the sliding roller on that side.

Well after the reset procedure, 10 opens and 10 closes of my passenger side door yielded no errors. Hopefully that was all it needed. Thanks for posting.

 

Thanks for the comment. Glad the reset worked for you too.

 

The reset worked GREAT! For exactly one week. My passenger side door symptoms came back.

Sometimes my door, when closed, will unlatch, beep 3 times, and re-latch without ever moving. The next attempt to open the door either yields the same result or the door opens with no issue.

Sometimes when open, the door will do nothing when you try to close it, beep 3 times, and remain open. The next attempt either yields the same result or the door will close with no issue.

The only thing I know about this door is that the previous owner replaced the center roller on that side shortly before I purchased it.

I have no dash lights and I have NEVER had to manually open or close either door. Not really sure where else to post this as similar issues I've read about mention a door error light and I've never had one.

 

Likely a bad rear latch. Very common issue, discussed here frequently.

 

I need to stop doing research before coffee. Still digging to try to find anyone else with the same problem. The latch functioning properly 100% of the time that it is activated threw me off that scent. It's never failed to latch or unlatch, we just have the door moving forward and back to deal with.

 

After my coffee I realized I'd omitted a major part of the symptoms. It didn't help me find anything however.

Upon opening, the door unlatches, and there is the sound of a free spinning motor (as opposed to a bound motor), the door sucks back in and latches closed all while the three beeps sound.

I do not know if the free spinning motor sound accompanies the failure to close as well though. I stood outside for 20 minutes non-stop opening and closing the door and it functioned properly the entire time. Yesterday it was every 2nd or 3rd time opening or closing.

Since I bought the van my gut had been telling me I need to dissect the motor to look for damage or lack of lubrication.

 

Perhaps the alignment of the center roller is off?

 

This is exactly the problem I've been hoping I have since I'm not enthused about accessing the innards of the motor. I am unsure how to proceed checking the alignment on the roller, however.

When I replaced my driver side center roller I supported it with a jack, it didn't budge, and I had zero issues lining it back up. I don't know what happened during the previous owner's passenger side install however.

 

If the gaps around the door are all even, good chance that there's no issue with the roller alignment. However since you replaced the driver side roller, check the passenger side since you're unsure about it. It's possible that the height is correct for the gaps, but the roller might be skewed causing issues as it rolls around the first bend. With the door supported, loosen the center roller bolts and double check that it's perpendicular to the track. On second thought- remove the bolts completely and verify that the center roller hinge is moving smoothly. You don't have to remove it from the cable to check this. Reassemble and test.

 

If the gaps around the door are all even

A-ha! The rear of the door does not sit flush. Is this a telltale sign of a misaligned roller? My driver side is completely flush.

 

As I drove home, eager to mess with the door, my entire front-end shook so violently during braking from 75mph to 30mph at an interchange that I thought a tie-rod broke. Tried to replicate it again and couldn't. Smooth sailing all the way home. Spent the last of my daylight giving the wheels hell and manhandling the suspension and finding nothing loose but my stabilizer bar bushings. The door just got bumped down the list once again.

I have a cursed driveway, by the way. All who park in it are befallen with automotive woes. I was once given a car for free because it broke down in my driveway. If I were literate I could write a book!

Apologies for derailing this thread.

 

Were you able to get this fixed? I'm in the same boat.

 

The title says "Solved". Or what exactly is the problem you are having?

 

I have the same issue the OP had. Yes, it says solved but there was never any updates. OP says they bumped the issue down the list of things to do

 

I am not a member of this club as of yet, but about 2 years ago I managed to purchase an 07 odyssey and one of the main issues that gave me a dirt cheap price was the fact that the back doors did not function at all... I was told to open them and they would fall off... So I started by opening the passenger side first and the middle rollers were completely gone and the track was extremely beat up from random people beating and prying on it... I didn't currently have the money for the rollers... I actually took the hinge off and the guide rollers that are horizontal were completely disintegrated... So I took some machine screws and nuts and washers and manufactured my own rollers... Anyhow while I was trying to figure it out, I started looking at the drive cables and realized that the cables on the driver's side were fine, but the cables on the passenger side had the plastic coating on the wires cracked in random places down the length of the cable as you would expect old plastic to get old and brittle anyhow they would catch at every place the plastic coating was cracked only when the power open was engaged. But would slide smoothly when manually operating the door. So that may be where you need to focus on your issues? Hopefully this helps

 

Welcome to the OdyClub!

I didn't currently have the money for the rollers...

Check out the Sliding Door Mega-thread, and look for the link to the $5 sliding door roller repair. But I am finding the $5 fix is only lasing about 2 years for me. Currently working on a $10 update on this- to be updated later!

 

Does the bottom roller hinge allow adjustments to close the gap?

In my case, the gap is between the front and rear driver side doors, especially at the top.

Adjusting the middle roller hinge made no discernable difference. I attempted it about five times.

Months ago, I adjusted the plate with thr u-hook, and it definitely pulled the door tighter inwardly.

 

The center roller assembly can make these adjustments. If you notice the holes on the brackets, they're square to allow up, down, forward, and backward adjustment. Loosen the 2 bolts, but leave them tight enough that the bracket will not move without tapping it with a hammer. Tap the bracket with a hammer with one hand while the other hand holds the door. Resnug the bolts and test it. Not right? Do it again. Got it good? Torque the bolts down. Go crazy experimenting with adjustments. Making marks before adjusting will give you an idea of which way to go.

 

Any suggestions for closing the gap closer to the driver door?