Just recently bought '11 TE and installed our Thule Atlantis 2100 yesterday in preparation for our vacation. I installed it as much forward as possible and when I open the tailgate fully, it ends up touching the back of the box. I'm scared that over a certain period of time it will damage the paint. Any idea as to what I can do to fix the issue?
Thule Atlantis 2100 - Touching the tailgate when fully open - Ideas?
fredericroumi
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Just recently bought '11 TE and installed our Thule Atlantis 2100 yesterday in preparation for our vacation. I installed it as much forward as possible and when I open the tailgate fully, it ends up touching the back of the box. I'm scared that over a certain period of time it will damage the paint. Any idea as to what I can do to fix the issue?
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116 Posts
Not much option with OEM cross bars, you could buy a set of Thule cross bars. Most of the aftermarket cross bars are adjustable so you could mount them more forward and that shuld solve the problem. I am using Rhino cross bars for the adjustability plus they are larger and more sturdy than the Honda bars.
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Thule or Yakima crossbars allow a slightly higher mounting height, too.
Whenever I use my 21 cu ft Yakima Platinum on the stock bars, I just hook some 550 cord to the car seat tether with a taut-line hitch, and something like a big key ring in the other end and push it into the hatch lock. Yes, it is temporarily ghetto, but it restrains the hatch's upward movement and keeps it from touching the cargo box.
OF
Whenever I use my 21 cu ft Yakima Platinum on the stock bars, I just hook some 550 cord to the car seat tether with a taut-line hitch, and something like a big key ring in the other end and push it into the hatch lock. Yes, it is temporarily ghetto, but it restrains the hatch's upward movement and keeps it from touching the cargo box.
OF
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I have a Thule Cascade XT which allows me to adjust the base hooks back and forth (about 5-7 inches, I had an issue once with a roof mounted antenna), but if that is not the case for the Atlantis 1200, your crossbars are fixed, it is temporary and/or you don't want to break the bank:
1.
Open the tailgate manually while you are using the cargo box. Do not use the auto open button. The 2011-2013 model outside tailgate open button does not activate the self-opening motor. The struts are the only push.
2.
Glue some black foam padding material to the box for when there is contact. Home Depot should have it
1.
Open the tailgate manually while you are using the cargo box. Do not use the auto open button. The 2011-2013 model outside tailgate open button does not activate the self-opening motor. The struts are the only push.
2.
Glue some black foam padding material to the box for when there is contact. Home Depot should have it
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I had such problem with my BMW X3. What I did is I bought a furniture stick on felt and attached it to the part of the box that came in contact with the tailgate. Later on I drilled new set of holes in my Thule box to make sure it clears the tailgate. I have several sets of holes in my box to accomodate all of my vehicles (past and present). Example below.
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Cargo boxes vendors do not recommend making holes arbitrarily in areas where the box not designed to hold the weight and the highway wind drag. If that is the only option I'd suggest to add a couple of metal straps along to reinforce the area. I'd also add a Thule fairing to reduce drag and wind noise.
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True that, it explicitly states that in the manual. However my box is 14 years old and it came with four metal inserts that go over the holes and the fact that it has been tested at triple digits for many miles/years makes me think it's safe to use. Said all that I would not recommend making any alterations to the box without at least some due diligence.
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Yeah. I still remember when traveling with my parents as a kid. The Griswold's truckster was a fair comparison. Safety and fuel economy were not a priority at that time I guess
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