i lift up the front end with the floor jack on the tow hook. I put a jack stand at the jack point on the side of the vehicle behind the front wheel. One on each side.

 

i lift up the front end with the floor jack on the tow hook. I put a jack stand at the jack point on the side of the vehicle behind the front wheel. One on each side.

I read the a floor jack should only be used to lift, not to support weight. I understand we are talking about a "back up." But what's your take on this statement?

 

I am completely missing the point of this thread. You cannot use the jacking point to raise the car AND use a jackstand. You get a floor jack. Raise the car either from the front or from the wheel crossmember, slide in the jack stand and lower it back on the jackstand. I do that on both sides and slide in jackstand either on the front or on the rear. If I had 4 stands, I'd do the same by raising each corner and lowering on the stands.

What exactly are you asking? Are you not using a floor jack to raise the van to put on stands?

 

I am completely missing the point of this thread. You cannot use the jacking point to raise the car AND use a jackstand. You get a floor jack. Raise the car either from the front or from the wheel crossmember, slide in the jack stand and lower it back on the jackstand. I do that on both sides and slide in jackstand either on the front or on the rear. If I had 4 stands, I'd do the same by raising each corner and lowering on the stands.

What exactly are you asking? Are you not using a floor jack to raise the van to put on stands?

I know how to jack up the van. I know where the jack stands should go. Done. The front is jacked up on stands. Used two jack stands so far.

I got two more not being used.

I'm asking to be safe, where else should one put a jack stands as a back up incase the jack stands were to fail. So if two were to fail, there are two more as back up hold the van up.

Base on your reply, where exactly is the wheel crossmember? Let's start with what is it?

 

Hello GoLowDrew,

Jack stands are like blow out preventers. They never fail... [sarcastic moment off]

I would just put one under the jack point in the middle of the car (i.e. at either front or rear tow hooks). Just make sure your stand is rated for at least half the weight of the Ody.

Rather than using a jack stand for back up, I usually leave the jack in position and use that. I take the weight of the vehicle off of the jack and let it rest on the stands, then leave the jack in place as a back up.

Tom

 

As a general rule for any cars.

Follow the control arm where it attaches to the subframe.
Place the jackstand below the subframe (NOT the control arm) at that point.

This is where I place my jackstand:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=562725

 

This is where I place my jackstand:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=562725 [/B]

Thanks guys. Great answers.

One more question in reference to the pic above. Does it matter if it's alloy wheel or steel wheel?

I know we are talking about a back up and what ifs. Will alloy wheels withstand the weight on it's side?

 

Both aluminum and steel wheel laying on the side is a good back-up plan, either wheel can easily handle the weight of the car.

Why can't you use a wood ramp for simple stuff like Oil Chnage?
I wrote the DIY here:

http://www.odyclub.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65406

 

I have read your thread a few times. It gave me the confidence to do my first oil change. Thanks.

Yes, that is in the plans too.

 

I worry about the jack stand falling over, not collapsing, and taking the van with it. I think the risk increases as the jack stand is extended. If I am doing any work requiring heavy torque (not so far on the Ody), I rest the van on concrete blocks. I always keep them standing up but positioned perpendicular to the van. This gives me a base that's at least twice the width of my jack stands.

I used to work around heavy trucks. After seeing one fall over with my cousin underneath, I will say that you can never be too careful when working under a car.

 

Actually concrete block can be dangerous (crumpling).

When I work under the car, I use the jackstand and its lowest setting.

If you must extend the jackstand then I always place another jackstand near the place I work as the last line of defence.

 

I'll slide this question in - since I'm considering building a wood ramp.

Why would wood (ramp) be strong? Doesn't wood crack? Dumb question. But just wondering.

 

...Why would wood (ramp) be strong? Doesn't wood crack? Dumb question. But just wondering.

Actually not a dumb question but a rather very interesting topic.

People have built bridges out of wood for centuries. How about your wood deck at home holding 30-50 people at parties?

If you use 2x10 lumber as shown, it is solid and better than Plastic Ramp.

Plus this is not a wood deck, it is SOLID wood sitting on SOLID concrete:

Look up compressive strength of wood for a good pleasant surprise.

Ever see construction jobsite with 10,000-lb plus equipment sitting on wood plank?

Look at this article, focus on "Modulus of Rupture", which is the pressure needed to tear the wood apart under compression:
http://www.auf.asn.au/scratchbuilder/timber.html

Even if you use the "conservative" figure of "Maximum Crushing Strength" of 80 lb/sq in, each square foot is 144 sq. inches, and each sq foot can handle 144 x 80 =11,520 lbs comfortably!

In this story, this house weighs 285 tons:
http://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/engineering/4277480

http://www.diynetwork.com/how-to/basic-steps-to-build-a-multi-level-frame/index.html

Here is a pic of sill plate, which basically supports the whole weight of the house!!!

So the bottom line is wood ramp is very very safe. The ramps you see in my pics are 10 years old. Not a single problem.

 

Thanks for the detail.

Last question. I'm going to Home Depot. What would should I get? I recall seeing Pine. That's all I remember.

 

Thanks for the detail.

Last question. I'm going to Home Depot. What would should I get? I recall seeing Pine. That's all I remember.

Get two (2) pieces of 2x10 x8 feet standard SPF (Spruce Pine Fur).
Very often you get Pine.

If you can get treated wood, that is a bit better.

 

If you need wood ramp dimension, here is my setup (see the measurement tape for dimension).

NOTE:
- Bottom piece is about 27" long.
- You don't have to bevel the edge 45 degrees like I did. A straight cut works fine. Car can climb straight edge no problems.
- "Stopper" at the end to prevent van from "driving over the cliff" LOL!!!

 

Yes I do. Thanks,

 

Yes I do. Thanks,

Best is to make 4 of these because you never know you need to raise all 4 wheels up to inspect chassis. In 99% of the time you only need 2 ramps for oil change.

Anyway up to you to build 2 vs 4 ramps.

Each plank of 2x10x8feet is good for one wood ramp with 3 layers.

 

Each plank of 2x10x8feet is good for one wood ramp with 3 layers.

I was just doing the calculations. How did you get 3 layers?

I could do 4 layers.

2 X 8 ft = 192 inches

Bottom 27+25+23+21 top = 96

96 X 2 ramps = 192

Please take a look at my measurements, maybe I'm missing something.

Yes, I don't have a stopper. I have some scrap wood in the garage, I think, I could use.

 

Yes,

I forgot to mention to you that if you know some carpenter friends or if you drive by areas where they are building new homes, carpenters throw out 2x10 bits and pieces all the time, you may get them for free.

Otherwise each 8-foot section is about $10-12 at Home Depot.

1. I forgot the "Stopper" is 2x4 wood, so get some junk 2x4 for stopper.

2. Yes you are right that each 8-foot plank can make a 4-layer wood ramp but.....
- Many cars, incl the Ody has low front bumper, so a 4-layer (6 inches tall) ramp will scratch the bottom of the bumper.

You can see in this pic with 3-layer, it is very close to the bumper:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=523209

Three (3) layers is enough, trust me.

However, you can save the 4th piece and keep it loose in case you want a higher ramp later for another vehicle.

 

Sounds like a plan. Going to HD after work. Thanks.

 

I read the a floor jack should only be used to lift, not to support weight. I understand we are talking about a "back up." But what's your take on this statement?

I leave the floor jack just touching the tow hook as a backup. While working on my cruisers I would put a wheel under the vehicle next to me as a backup. That won't do much good with the small tires on the Honda .

 

Actually concrete block can be dangerous (crumpling).

This is true. Always use them standing up (never on their side or end). Also, place it on a plywood pad that's at least as big as the block's footprint. Lastly, place a wood slab between the car's frame and the block that once again is at least as big as the block. The latter two precautions will reduce stress points that could make the concrete block crumple. Lastly, don't use a freshly-made concrete block - it hasn't cured to its full strength yet.

The above might seem like I have bought out of concrete blocks. However, when I worked under the Olds supported on concrete blocks, I felt totally safe. Even moreso than with the top quality jack stands that I also have.

Whatever you use - safety first!

 

GoLowDrew, one point I think you're missing here is that you should never work on/under a vehicle with only one end up on jack stands. Many do and it's worked fine but it's inherently unsafe. Proper procedure is to lift and support both ends on jack stands.

If you're only doing one end, use ramps - either DIY wood ones like have been picture or good, solid plastic ramps with a weight rating well in excess of your heaviest vehicle (I have a pair of 12,000 lbs Pro Ramps)).

If you're using jackstands, when the front is going onto or coming off of the stands, make sure you have the parking brake set and the rear wheels firmly chocked. This is especially important when coming off the jackstands, because if anything is restraining the floor jack from moving forward as it swings through its arc, the floor jack will be pulling the vehicle forward, tipping the jackstands. By fully restraining any forward or rearward movement of the vehicle, you're ensuring that only the floor jack is translating fore & aft. Similarly, if you use ramps, set those parking brakes and chock those wheels once it's up there - you do not want anything moving on you!

I do appreciate you starting this thread though, because I've found myself wondering "If this this were to tip over, where's my margin of safety? And, assuming it didn't actually fall on me, HTH would I get it lifted up again??" The suggestions a previous poster had with cured conblocks and plywood cauls is exactly the kind of thing that I'm going to use the next time I put this thing in the air!

 

If you need wood ramp dimension, here is my setup (see the measurement tape for dimension).

NOTE:
- Bottom piece is about 27" long.
- You don't have to bevel the edge 45 degrees like I did. A straight cut works fine. Car can climb straight edge no problems.
- "Stopper" at the end to prevent van from "driving over the cliff" LOL!!!

This was very useful for me - thank you so much. I made a set of these - certainly not as nice as yours, but definitely secure though.