Can anyone give some feedback if this hose is pretty easy to change out?
My air filter box is missing one of the tabs the top piece goes into so that'll need to come out too.
.

 

If you have the original clamps the screw can be easily stripped with the wrong screwdriver (learned that the hard way). If you don't have a JIS screwdriver (Phillips-type but not quite the same as USA Phillips), use a 5.5 mm socket on the clamp screw.

 

Lol I was like wait what did I write

 

He explained it well in the video in a way that I couldn't convey. Just hope no one has their vehicle stalled in the middle of no where (happened to me) when it's crazy hot and your wife, inlaws, and infant are with you. Totally frustrating. Took me a few years of research and trial and error to finally figure it out. Lots of thanks to this forum and Reddit for helping with my journey. This will be my last Honda/Acura.

 

when it's crazy hot and your wife,

all I read was crazy hot wife... and Totally frustrating.

 

Scotty's now pro-deactivate VCM? Better details about the evils that VCM cause are covered in the first post of The VCM mega thread - what is VCM, does my vehicle have it, what's so bad about it, and more which is linked at the top of this section. A bit of a read but with less flailing of arms and possibly annoying voice.
Glad you got your van "muzzled".
What? Changing your own oil does not break your warranty!

 

Good Lord. Scotty Video. No thanks.

 

I have a 2011 Oddy with around 135K miles just signed up for this forum to try to make sure others don't face these problems. Never posted on any of these forums but just wanted to say I had the SAME issues of stalling. It would mostly happen in the summer, on a slope when I'm idling and even worse with the AC on. Then it happened at any red light I would hit on a hot day, especially after a long drive. The issue started a bit in the winter as well.

Solution: Changed the air intake hose. The RPM was a solid 750 (guessing here as it was a bit below the 1000 RPM line). Less noise, and it felt like a new car. I was stunned, it can't be that simple but totally makes sense because the engine needs the correct about of air/fuel ratio.

Adding a bit more detail here. I checked the battery and alternator with tools I got from Amazon, and cleaned the terminals. All good. I had the Sparks replaced around 115K miles and the timing belt around 100K. The car was better after these changes but at 125K it started acting up again. I was ready to change the fuel pump because it seemed like the car was choking because there wasn't enough fuel. But there weren't other signs so I opted to try the air intake hose which is a $20 (frustrating if you don't lubricate the parts first) fix that seemed to make an immediate impact. Disclaimer, I've only driven the car once since the change, but I know my car very well, things have improved significantly. I purchased the VCM Tuner II and waiting for it to ship this week so I can install it. I tried to get in on the 10 year warranty extension from the Honda Class action law suit but my car was 11 years old when I found out (now 13 years old) and I "broke the warranty" by doing my own oil changes. It would be a waste of time, I'll just install the VCM Tuner and hope this car lasts until 200K that's all I want from it. I hope this helps others here, it's a really frustrating problem that becomes expensive when you get mechanics involved because it's very hard to diagnose. Scotty Kilmer talks about this on his channel, I recommend you listen to it for even more detail:

 

Good that you found and fixed the torn boot. That was a definite problem.

But finding gasoline inside the boot is a problem in itself. It should not be there at all, regardless of VCM, worn mounts, ripped intake boot. So I'd consider that to be a strong clue about what your remaining problem is.

Good luck.

 

But finding gasoline inside the boot is a problem in itself.

Take a look at that picture - it isn't gasoline. It is stuck up on the side of the tube. It is oil from blow-by.

I would expect some build-up in the intake tube, but excessive amount would hit at ring issues due to VCM coking.

As for a high-quality Dorman part... I wouldn't compare the quality of a 5+ year old part to a new one for pliability of the rubber compound. Once has been in a hot engine bay for years and the other is brand new.

-Charlie

 

as mentioned, follow the vcm thread... you're likely seeing compounded issues, the torn intake tube is the final result of a much bigger mess.
your motor mounts are probably shot due to active vcm, which caused the tube to tear.

remove the 3 rear plugs if they are an oily mess you will have your answer, also the likely cause for your oily intake tube.

 

@My3Angels , please give us your definition of "crank". Lots of people here use it with widely varying meanings.

 

???
"Wont crank" describes one condition as far as I know. You turn the key and the starter motor doesnt turn the engine.
This may include the sounds of a fuel pump or starter solonoid working or not.
The next condition is "cranks wont run".

I think you mean "wont start" which is ambiguous indeed.

 

This happened to my wife driving the one-way 40 mile trip to school. Emission, check engine, VSA light came on. Car went into limp/safe mode. She was able to make it home miraculously, because when I went to crank it in the driveway, the car would no longer crank. Found the intake hose broken at the throttle actuator connector. Smell of gasoline in eng compartment, some gas inside the hose. I replaced the intake hose with a high quality Doorman part, the emission light went away, however the car still won't crank. Cylinder misfire codes galore. Next step is calling State Farm and have her towed to dealer for a pro diagnosis. I hoping best case scenario, they can get the car out of safe mode, worse case, the timing is off. Praying for the best as I am avoiding car payments especially in these tyrannical times.

 

This happened to my wife driving the one-way 40 mile trip to school. Emission, check engine, VSA light came on. Car went into limp/safe mode. She was able to make it home miraculously, because when I went to crank it in the driveway, the car would no longer crank. Found the intake house broken at the throttle actuator connector. Smell of gasoline in eng compartment, some gas inside the hose. I replaced the intake hose with a high quality Doorman part, the emission light went away, however the car still won't crank. Cylinder misfire codes galore. Next step is calling State Farm and have her towed to dealer for a pro diagnosis. I hoping best case scenario, they can get the car out of safe mode, worse case, the timing is off. Praying for the best as I am avoiding car payments especially in these tyrannical times.

If the dealer tells you that you need a piston ring job, please check back here before you agree to drop $3-4k on it. The symptoms you report often lead to that diagnosis, but you can fix it for WAY less money.

PISTON RINGS/MISFIRES/FOULED SPARK PLUGS - The VCM mega...

This thread explains all the key details regarding VCM. Rather than re-explaining everything about VCM to every new forum member, they can simply be directed here. Self-service FTW! While there will be plenty of discussion in this thread, this first post contains the key information, so reading...

www.odyclub.com

 

Yes! This happened to me last year. Car would stall at slow speeds like when I'm parking... I didn't notice the rip at first and while troubleshooting ended up purchnig a new MAF sensor, cleaned out the throttle body which required me to have it "re-learn" the throttle settings. I'm sure those helped but if I would of just replaced the hose from the start I may have avoided all the other steps.

Not to mention all the other steps ended up give me a CEL message. Eventually the CEL went away. I noticed the rip after I had already removed the throttle body so I figured I'd go ahead and do everything else...

 

Yes! This happened to me last year. Car would stall at slow speeds like when I'm parking... I didn't notice the rip at first and while troubleshooting ended up purchnig a new MAF sensor, cleaned out the throttle body which required me to have it "re-learn" the throttle settings. I'm sure those helped but if I would of just replaced the hose from the start I may have avoided all the other steps.

Not to mention all the other steps ended up give me a CEL message. Eventually the CEL went away. I noticed the rip after I had already removed the throttle body so I figured I'd go ahead and do everything else...

Thanks for the confirmation. I was lucky I found it!

 

Before the motor mounts, disable VCM. It's the root cause.

 

Thank you guys! I'll take a look at the motor mounts.

 

You can just tape up the crack in the intake hose to restore operation until you get the new piece. It may or may not be related to excessive engine movement but checking the mount is not a bad thing.

 

This ^^^

lots of other posts here on this common issue...

since its tore, its likely your motor mounts are shot from leaving your VCM enabled, which will haunt you later.

 

Yes, it can certainly affect idle quality as it is downstream from MAF which meters air.